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08-13-2019, 05:42 AM
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#21
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Gander
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by {tpc}
I would also look closely at the roof seal on top of the trailer where the cap meets the roof. Water can get in there and could leak all the way down to the floor and over from there. With that amount of damage I would think you would notice water on the ceiling or delamination on the side wall either inside or outside of the trailer, as it seemed to be pretty significant. But I'm not an expert!
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Hey,
I will check there as well. I didn't see any de-lamination on the outside walls but didn't look closely on the inside. The ceiling has zero stains or signs of a leak anywhere in the trailer. Will look at the walls this evening.
Sorry for no update guys, been working flat out and the wife came home last evening from a little r&r trip with the kids so been hanging out with them!
It's supposed to rain heavy this evening so I'm hoping i'll see some signs of water then.
Chat soon!
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08-13-2019, 06:49 AM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Gander
Posts: 18
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Just checked the roof and walls inside and out.
It looks like at some point there was a leak in the wall. It was repaired and new (different) wallpaper was installed. The wallpaper is delaminating a little bit towards the top and there is signs of some kind of stain towards the bottom. But it looks like a past issue to me. The wall behind the wallpaper seems solid and bone dry, the wall board is solid from top to bottom as well.
I pulled the inner window frame and the foam and board at te bottom behind it is dry as well.
From what I can see the roof looks to be sealed well also.
What do you guys think?
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08-13-2019, 06:53 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Lisbon
Posts: 551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sputlegin
Quick question for you in case I run into this. What did you do to stop the leak? Did it affect your walls at all or just the floor?
Cheers
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The leak from the screws I just put a dab of caulking over the screw head and then I covered them with a small piece of eternabond tape. It just affected the floor area in the front corners of the trailer.
One thing that helped me find the leaks was a little moisture meter. I went around underneath and on the walls and poked around and found leaks at four different spots. This was in a brand new trailer.
General Tools MMD4E Digital Moisture Meter, Water Leak Detector, Moisture Tester, Pin Type, Backlit LCD Display With Audible and Visual High-Medium-Low Moisture Content Alerts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5O2..._M6SuDbCRWKVZ0
__________________
2018 Keystone Cougar 22RBS
2020 Ford F-350 XLT SC SRW 6.7l Powerstroke.
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08-13-2019, 10:25 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Vacaville
Posts: 309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sputlegin
It's supposed to rain heavy this evening so I'm hoping i'll see some signs of water then.
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This has got to be the very FIRST time I have ever seen an RVer say this!
__________________
2013 Premier 22RBPR
2022 GMC 2500HD 4x4 Gasser
2019 Beta 500 RR-s (Pasta Rocket!)
2015 Honda CRF250L (Wifes)
Camping, home brewing, and dirt bikes!
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08-13-2019, 05:01 PM
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#25
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Gander
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steveo57
The leak from the screws I just put a dab of caulking over the screw head and then I covered them with a small piece of eternabond tape. It just affected the floor area in the front corners of the trailer.
One thing that helped me find the leaks was a little moisture meter. I went around underneath and on the walls and poked around and found leaks at four different spots. This was in a brand new trailer.
General Tools MMD4E Digital Moisture Meter, Water Leak Detector, Moisture Tester, Pin Type, Backlit LCD Display With Audible and Visual High-Medium-Low Moisture Content Alerts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5O2..._M6SuDbCRWKVZ0
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Sprayed the hatch covers all around the trailer from multiple angles. No leaks.
I did find that the storage cover had a bit of water seeping on its back side from lack of factory sealant. Not enough to cause a leak but enough to damage the wallpaper on the cover. I've added caulking to the missing areas.
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08-13-2019, 05:02 PM
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#26
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Gander
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CampNBrew2
This has got to be the very FIRST time I have ever seen an RVer say this!
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Hahah! Indeed.
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08-13-2019, 05:21 PM
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#27
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Gander
Posts: 18
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I believe I've found my leak!
I confirmed a fairly large amount of water is entering from the drip step at the bottom of the door.
I stuck paper towels in three areas. One on the wall and two on each corner of the door. No water on the one under the wall.
I sprayed the door for about 5 or 6 seconds and opened it once the water stopped dripping. Water had pooled in the corner (see pics) and started to soak the paper towel underneath the step on the forward corner of the door. This was where most of the water seemed to soak the floor and where bare wood would sit. I would guess 30 seconds or so of spraying would soak the entire paper towel.
In addition to this, the foam rubber seal at the bottom of the door is not tight against the darco which leads me to believe that water is also entering while driving on wet roads.
Really poor design.
My plan is to support the step underneath with some synthetic lumber ripped to fit where the wood was originally. I've removed the shock (which I believe was causing the sealant to degrade) then I will re seal the step to the door frame. This should eliminate the water.
We didn't get the rain we were expecting but I sprayed the entire trailer all over and even washed it to get ready for new sealant. Looks like that's the only spot that water is entering. The rest should be waterproofed well.
Cheers all
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08-13-2019, 05:28 PM
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#28
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Gander
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gegrad
Just an idea, but does the black outer window frame happen to have any cracks in it? If it does, water could easily run down the inside of the door and flood like that. You might spray test the door window when you check the hatch. I have had to replace both my outer frames due to cracks that caused water to pour down the inside of the door. I caught it fairly quickly so it didn't ruin my floor. I seriously doubt the gas strut on the door was causing the leak, at least from my experience with them. Anyway, you are doing a great job on the rebuild; looks good so far.
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Hey Gegrad,
I definitely have water coming out of the drain holes on the bottom of the door. Any idea if it's supposed to flow down there? Did you have this before you replaced your window frame? Does it happen now?
I'll have to remove it to check but it looks like that window frame doesn't have a seal.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers
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08-17-2019, 06:16 PM
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#29
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Gander
Posts: 18
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Hey All,
Rebuild is going well. I'll try and keep this going until the end in case someone in the future finds this useful.
I have the subfloor back together and the door sealed. Kitchen is reinstalled and I'm now waiting on the adhesive to dry in the area by the door & bed.
The seals on the window in the door were completely dried out. The window seal was so dry, when I removed the back trim piece, the glass fell out in my hand. This was allowing water to enter around the glass and run down inside and behind the door. I believe this was also contributing to the water pooling on the drip step. I replaced both seals with fresh butyl tape.
I decided to replace the old insulation with new SM foam board and used 5/16 plywood to match up to the existing floor. I cut a "tray" in the existing foam and new foam to lay a strip of 1/2" plywood to allow the use of screws to secure it.
For adhesive I used PL300 to adhere to the foam and PL400 for the wood/alum frame joins. I'm leveling the joins with a belt sander and some flexible automotive body filler. I used the flexible body filler as it has a catalyst and dries rapidly!
I used my scuba tanks as dead weight to firmly hold the floor in place while the adhesive cured. they're heavy and it really helped to press into the PL firmly.
Hopefully finish with the inside tomorrow night after work. If the underside is completely dry, I'll close that back up the following day with gorilla tape until my Darco patch tape comes in!
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08-18-2019, 04:08 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Brant Lake,NY
Posts: 321
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Leak
I would check the clearance lite on the outside for a leak. if it is leaking the water will fallow the wires through the wall (wall sits on the floor). I had the same thing happen to me last to me. I leave my 5th wheel in Florida for the Summer and came back to a flood in the back of my rig had to replace carpeting and trim repaired the floor with Get-Rot a Marine product for wooden boats. I thinned it out and brushed it on it will soak into the wood and make it hard and dry.
__________________
Gary & Gail
Alfa Gold 3905SH
2016 F350 DWD 4X4 6.7,3.73 Rear
2012 Cougar 318SAB
2015 F350 SWD 4X4 3.55 Rear
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08-18-2019, 12:23 PM
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#31
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 57
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A comment
This year in the Midwest there has been massive flooding. IMO this unit may have been one of hundreds caught in the flooding. It’s great that you have the skills to repair extensive water damage. Did the signed buyers agreement say as is?
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08-18-2019, 02:56 PM
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#32
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Apollo, PA
Posts: 61
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You may not need it now but a dehumidifier will really draw the moisture out when in a small area like a trailer.
We bought a tt from a private owner a few years ago and discovered a soft spot in the floor when we got it home. The dehumidifier helped a lot, especially after removing the floor covering.
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08-26-2019, 09:48 AM
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#33
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Rockland massachusetts
Posts: 3
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My 2009 Hideout is junk now and not fully paid for, we removed the jack knife couch to put something more comfortable in it's place and my husband almost went right through the floor, we would have never known and someone could have been seriously hurt if we hadn't decided to change the couch. Insurance won't cover it because they can't find the leak unless we let them tear apart my walls and floor but if it is not due to some hidden plumbing problem they will just leave it torn apart. They sure don;t make them like they use to.
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08-26-2019, 01:29 PM
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#34
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 57
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Panel water line access
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jody0212
My 2009 Hideout is junk now and not fully paid for, we removed the jack knife couch to put something more comfortable in it's place and my husband almost went right through the floor, we would have never known and someone could have been seriously hurt if we hadn't decided to change the couch. Insurance won't cover it because they can't find the leak unless we let them tear apart my walls and floor but if it is not due to some hidden plumbing problem they will just leave it torn apart. They sure don;t make them like they use to.
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I have a 2015 Hideout 30rlds. I’ve found that all the water lines are accessible by removing panels in the kitchen and bathroom (assuming a water line leak). The screws that secure these panels are flush so they are hard to see.
Also, I owned a travel trailer that leaked where the city water hose attaches on the side of the trailer. This line was near the bedroom so the bedroom carpet was damp.
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08-26-2019, 01:33 PM
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#35
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: seattle
Posts: 68
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Here is my thread on my floor problem.
http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...ad.php?t=39472
All these trailers will develop holes in the darco where the floor rests on the frame rails. Tire spray will go thru the holes and delamination will start with the bottom layer of wood eventually reaching the top layer. Once the water is in, there is no way for it to get out and with high temps and freezing, the floor gets wrecked.
My bottom layer of wood looks (where I haven't ripped it up) just like your's. You'll probably continue to have problems unless you fix the wheelwells spray so it doesn't reach the darco, caulk the darco/frame joint, etc.
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