Big electrical issues

Cmo · 06-25-2023, 09:54 AM

Hello, 2006 mountaineer 319bhs. The 50 amp shore power cable arced at the power pole a few months back and I've had intermittent electrical problems ever since. Lights dim or flicker occasionally or the printer I have installed in back bunkhouse would beep and reboot.

Yesterday I had zero power to the 5th wheel, no breakers flipped, gfi tested and reset, no blown fuses. I checked the 50 amp cable and found that the plastic around bottom pin on was melted and pin was slightly charred.

I checked the battery compartment next and discovered the caps blown off one of the batteries and the casing cracked.. This battery actually exploded. Don't know when it happened but damage doesn't look recent.

The other battery looked fine but upon testing it was at 1% so replaced both. I also changed the make plug on 50 amp cable.

I know have 12v restored but if I plug anything into a receptacle it instantly pops and starts to smoke.

I found the converter behind fuse panel and checked reverse polarity fuses both fine.

All if this begs the question why/ how power has been working (water heater, receptacles etc) with the components damaged this badly.?

As if now the rig is totally disconnected from shore power and batteries disconnected. Where to go from here?

firestation12 · 06-25-2023, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cmo

Hello, 2006 mountaineer 319bhs. The 50 amp shore power cable arced at the power pole a few months back and I've had intermittent electrical problems ever since. Lights dim or flicker occasionally or the printer I have installed in back bunkhouse would beep and reboot.

Yesterday I had zero power to the 5th wheel, no breakers flipped, gfi tested and reset, no blown fuses. I checked the 50 amp cable and found that the plastic around bottom pin on was melted and pin was slightly charred.

I checked the battery compartment next and discovered the caps blown off one of the batteries and the casing cracked.. This battery actually exploded. Don't know when it happened but damage doesn't look recent.

The other battery looked fine but upon testing it was at 1% so replaced both. I also changed the make plug on 50 amp cable.

I know have 12v restored but if I plug anything into a receptacle it instantly pops and starts to smoke.

I found the converter behind fuse panel and checked reverse polarity fuses both fine.

All if this begs the question why/ how power has been working (water heater, receptacles etc) with the components damaged this badly.?

As if now the rig is totally disconnected from shore power and batteries disconnected. Where to go from here?

When you replaced the power cord’s male end, if you put one of the power wires onto the neutral’s prong, this would send 240 volts to all your 120 volt devices. The “bottom pin” you mentioned, is the lower blade on the cord cap. The top round pin is the ground, opposite the round ground pin is the neutral blade. The left and right blades are the power legs. If you have done what I’ve described, this will be an costly mistake.

dutchmensport · 06-25-2023, 11:54 AM

Yes, what Firestation12 said, Sounds like you've rewired for 240 not 2 legs of 120.

Do you use an EMS (surge protector), either a portable one or a permanently installed one? If not, take the effort and invest in one and keep it plugged in all the time. It's the best protection you can do for your camper, even when parked at home.

jasin1 · 06-25-2023, 01:56 PM

i’m thinking the EMS would only protect you from problems upstream or at the pedestal…if you miswired the shore power cable you are downstream of the protection ..it may just damage the ems permanently …but i could be wrong

I’d get a rv tech or electrician to check things out before someone gets hurt or worse..unplug from the pedestal

looks like some ems models protect downstream and others do not

**sourdough** · 06-25-2023, 02:14 PM

OP I'm thinking unless you're very comfortable with electrical systems (120vac and 12vdc) you need to get someone to look at that. You've got a lot going on there from the blown up batteries to the burned up power cable.

You don't say if this is a new to you trailer or not but those batteries sound like they haven't seen maintenance in a long time resulting it "oops". The converter does not like to try to push voltage into destroyed batteries so don't know what you have there...have you checked the converter output (disconnected from the batteries)? Sounds like new batteries has your 12vdc running for now but it the converter is dead it won't be for long.

If I understand correctly both the 120vac and the 12vdc were crapped out initially. You found the batteries, replaced them so the 12v is working...right? On the AC side at the same time you found the batteries you also discovered the burned power cable?? then cut the end off replacing it with a new one? If so, do you have the old end/plug so you can compare wire colors to wire positions to see if you miswired the new plug? In lieu of that you can use a VOM if you have one and are versed in using it.

You say that if you plug "anything" into a receptacle (AC) it "instantly pops and starts to smoke" - what pops and starts to smoke? As was mentioned you may have given yourself 240vac. Assessing your cable or using a VOM on the cable will tell you that.

Cmo · 06-25-2023, 06:10 PM

I was mistaken in my OP. See pic below for damages plug. I had the power company send a tech out to make sure meter box wasn't damaged. His end was fine but he recommended I replace the receptacle, which I did.

We did a continuity test on my 50amp cable and it checked out so I believe the cable is ok.

So far batteries have been replaced. Male plug on shore power replaced, 50amp receptacle on meter replaced, and I replaced the dual 15amp breaker from the fuse panel because only one side was getting power. Just so happens that breaker controls my water heater and the RV receptacles inside. (clue maybe?)

After connecting the new batteries and shore power I plugged in a receptacle tester plug in two different plugs and LED results show hot/neutral reverse. The only wiring I've touched was the dome light over the kitchen table when it's switch went bad. And the light works. Not sure where to look for

Cmo · 06-25-2023, 06:32 PM

Yes I read the instructions and watched a few YouTube videos on how to replace the male plug. The wires were measured and cut to spec (white 1.5 inch, red and black 2inch, and green is at 3inch). And connected to proper positions. The power companies tech went over it with a multimeter and gave it his blessing.

ChuckS · 06-26-2023, 05:00 AM

either the pole outlet or the shore power cable is not wired correctly for your 50 amp service to the RV..

See image... If you dont have a meter and dont know how to use one now is the time to STOP and get someone that understands how to wire/test an RV 50 amp outlet and shore power cable..

**flybouy** · 06-26-2023, 08:35 AM

From the op's comments I'd strongly suggest hiring an RV tech, electrician, or having someone with extensive knowledge of Rv ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS repair your electrical system. From your commente it's obvious that you mixed up the wires. It's easy to do and if you donhve the knowledge nor experience you can do far more harm than good as you are finding out.

firestation12 · 06-26-2023, 09:16 AM

As I stated in post #2 and as your tester confirms, one of the hot leads is affixed to the neutral. It’s either at the power pedestal or the new cord cap you replaced. Put your tools away and get professional help.

Cmo · 06-26-2023, 10:59 PM

Sorry if I wasn't clear. I have a multimeter and know how to use it and can follow directions too. The 50 amp receptacle I replaced on the power pole was tested / verified by a certified electrician. So was the 50amp cable I repaired.

I found the plug causing the hot neutral reverse reading. It was the external plug located on the same wall as the internal plug that fried my phone charger. The prior owner had replaced the plug and rewired incorrectly.

I'm cautiously optimistic that the problems have been fixed but having an RV tech come out to verify on Wednesday. F

Many thanks to all that replied!!

CedarCreekWoody · 07-02-2023, 07:43 AM

Thanks. Let us know what the tech finds.

DW83fxsb · 07-14-2023, 08:11 AM

I have a 2020 fuzion 396. It has the installed 5.5kw gas generator. While in a campground last spring, I lost shore power (30A) and the generator auto-started, loaded and supplied power to the trailer. Once shore power was restored, it unloaded and shut down. It hasn't performed the auto start function since. I know just enough about automatic bus transfer systems to be dangerous, so I have a qualified electrician standing by. What we need is a schematic for the charging circuit and any tech info on the transfer system and the touch-screen control unit on the bulkhead. I printed a copy of the owner's manual (I know: no user serviceable parts inside, call your authorized dealer). Any info on where to find the tech documentation would be helpful. TIA

firestation12 · 07-14-2023, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DW83fxsb

I have a 2020 fuzion 396. It has the installed 5.5kw gas generator. While in a campground last spring, I lost shore power (30A) and the generator auto-started, loaded and supplied power to the trailer. Once shore power was restored, it unloaded and shut down. It hasn't performed the auto start function since. I know just enough about automatic bus transfer systems to be dangerous, so I have a qualified electrician standing by. What we need is a schematic for the charging circuit and any tech info on the transfer system and the touch-screen control unit on the bulkhead. I printed a copy of the owner's manual (I know: no user serviceable parts inside, call your authorized dealer). Any info on where to find the tech documentation would be helpful. TIA

Do you have the in-command system and if so, is the auto start part of that system? The transfer switch only functions when it senses voltage from the generator. Even if the shore power is functioning, if the generator is started, the transfer switch will select the generator’s input. It seems to me the problem is not with the transfer switch but lies in wherever the auto start function resides. A question you may want to ask yourself is, “what prevents the auto start from engaging when the shore power is manually unplugged”? Certainly you wouldn’t want the generator to start when the shore power plug is manually disconnected. Disclaimer: The above are only guesses, they are free, so they may be of no value.

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