Generator.....which one do you own? - Page 3

CHIEF MK · 02-22-2014, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Linwoodrver

I went with the Hondas: 2000i plus 2000i companion with parallel cables. They are currently en route, expected this Wednesday.

2012 Cougar 31SQB
2014 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 6.6L Duramax + Allison tranny

I already have one of these Honda 2000I plus. I know one of them won't run the A/C, and I'm sure 2 of them will. I love this little genny. I'm also thinking about buying another one and the parallel cable. My question is, if you plug your generators into the TT power cable, is that all you need to do? Will the TT's inverter be ok if you do this? I'm new to RV's, and don't want to blow anything up. My Honda only has 110 outlets. Will the 30 amp to 110 adapter be ok to use, or will it generate to much heat. Thanks for the help.

Bluewater · 02-22-2014, 10:28 AM

Chief, you should have no problem running right off your power cord direct to the twin Hondas. Makes a very nice setup and you can use just one if you don't need the AC.

SAD · 02-22-2014, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CHIEF MK

I already have one of these Honda 2000I plus. I know one of them won't run the A/C, and I'm sure 2 of them will. I love this little genny. I'm also thinking about buying another one and the parallel cable. My question is, if you plug your generators into the TT power cable, is that all you need to do? Will the [b]TT's inverter[b] be ok if you do this? I'm new to RV's, and don't want to blow anything up. My Honda only has 110 outlets. Will the 30 amp to 110 adapter be ok to use, or will it generate to much heat. Thanks for the help.

Your TT has a converter. This converts the 110/120V supply into 12v for your 12v items (lights, pump, various RV appliance control boards) and charges your batteries.

The converter doesn't really care what 110/120v supply it's plugged into... Generator, campsite power pedestal, household outlet at hone.

CHIEF MK · 02-22-2014, 02:00 PM

Thanks guys. Just wanted to make sure. So far we have only used the TT since October, so no need for A/C yet. We as in San Diego last week and the high was around 80. Someday I might need that A/C. Thanks again for the info.

bdaniel · 03-28-2014, 08:00 AM

Honda EU3000i. Bought it in 2002 and have over 1000 hours on it. I love the thing. If it quit tomorrow I would buy another one just like it. It runs a 15k AC and misc things like the TV and fridge. Can't run the microwave and AC at the same time.

It provides a lot of flexibility. Sometimes we drive 2-3 days to get someplace. During those times we just stay in a Flying J or Walmart. The generator makes that possible.

I have a different truck now but I made a box for the generator in 2002. I am still using the box and generator. They stay in the truck all the time. Here are some photos:

http://www.bobbystuff.com/RV/index.p...er-proof-cover

Bobby

Pmedic4 · 03-28-2014, 07:42 PM

It is interesting reading these posts about Generators, and power requirements. I have 2 already, but they were bought mostly for home backup requirements, and one is propane - sort of a pain to start, but is quiet when running, but it is only 2400 watts versus my larger 5500 watt gen.

What I found interesting in reading these, was "Fulltimer" posted the spec. sheets on the Honda models, and what the power requirements are for common appliances. Nothing really surprising in the list, except, they totaled up the appliances and said - this is how big a generator you would need, which ended up being 6720 watts starting, and 5300 watts running.

Now, what is obviously a marketing ploy to get you to buy the bigger generator, the list includes an AC and also a heater - operating watts at the same time!
We all know the DW will often complain she's cold when when we crank on the AC, but somewhere you need to compromise to save money on a smaller generator.

It's almost April! Time to chip off the ice and get out.

bdaniel · 03-28-2014, 08:46 PM

Yep, my Honda EU3000 puts out around 25 amps and I routinely run the 15k AC, the fridge, TV and converter for lights with no problems. It will run for 10-12 hours in the summer on a tank of gas and 24 hours in the winter.

Bobby

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pmedic4

It is interesting reading these posts about Generators, and power requirements. I have 2 already, but they were bought mostly for home backup requirements, and one is propane - sort of a pain to start, but is quiet when running, but it is only 2400 watts versus my larger 5500 watt gen.

What I found interesting in reading these, was "Fulltimer" posted the spec. sheets on the Honda models, and what the power requirements are for common appliances. Nothing really surprising in the list, except, they totaled up the appliances and said - this is how big a generator you would need, which ended up being 6720 watts starting, and 5300 watts running.

Now, what is obviously a marketing ploy to get you to buy the bigger generator, the list includes an AC and also a heater - operating watts at the same time!
We all know the DW will often complain she's cold when when we crank on the AC, but somewhere you need to compromise to save money on a smaller generator.

It's almost April! Time to chip off the ice and get out.

slimchancepistolero · 03-29-2014, 04:03 PM

hi, new to this forum but not to camping ... i had a 2010 Passport (total loss this winter) with a 13,500 A/C and for 2 yrs used a Honda 2000i (15 amp plugs)... it would not run the A/C tripping out on overload, so last spring we bought a Honda 2000 Companion (20 amp and 15 amp plugs) along with the parallel wire kit ... that would run the A/C and the fridg along with some lights .... then one nite somebody disconnected the parallel wires and the camper was only plugged into the 2000 Companion and A/C and fridg ran just fine, obtw we were dry camping with nobody else around and when beyond about 15 ft you can not hear the Hondas

Marcusjolaine · 10-01-2014, 06:44 AM

Bought the Champion 3100w with remote for $1100 delivered. Has enough power for a 13,500 btu AC and can run the microwave at the same time. It's light and quiet and am very pleased with the quality. Love getting up in the morning and using the remote w/out leaving the trl. to make my morning coffee. I would highly recommend this generator.

mazboy123 · 10-02-2014, 07:38 AM

yep, just plug it in...that's all, just like shore power.

love my 2000 watt. and, have you tried to use your 13.5K A/C, if everything is off it will run the A/C if not too hot outside. a little noisy but it can work.

rjsurfer · 10-02-2014, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mazboy123

yep, just plug it in...that's all, just like shore power.

love my 2000 watt. and, have you tried to use your 13.5K A/C, if everything is off it will run the A/C if not too hot outside. a little noisy but it can work.

Same experience here with running the Eu2000 watt genny and my 13.5k A/C. Before starting the Honda I make sure the batteries are charged so the charging section isn't drawing too much and the water heater is off and the fridge is on gas and only LED lights are on. Of course no TV, microwave.

I monitor the AC voltage and make sure it doesn't drop down below 115 volts AC.

Keeping the fan on low and constant helps too.

Sure there are some gyrations when trying this but the few times we need ac we need it! And they are small in comparison to sweating our butts off AND carrying a 2nd $1k Honda.

Ron W.

**JRTJH** · 10-02-2014, 10:51 AM

Any time a wire passes through a magnetic field electrons are shifted. That is the basis of how a motor driven generator produces electricity. As the wire wound stator passes through the magnetic field, it produces electricity. The shift of those electrons produces heat within the rotor/stator assembly. The more electricity produced, the more heat produced. Operating a generator rated for 1600 watts at (or near) the maximum output will generate significant heat. As the varnish (insulation) on the wire windings gets hot, it breaks down and a part of the stator's windings shorts out. As this occurs, if the demand for electricity continues at the maximum, the remaining wires must generate the power. This creates more heat within the remaining windings and can lead to premature failure of the generator. That's why every generator owner's manual instructs the user to start the generator with out a load and allow it to warm up before applying a load, then, when the generator is shut down, to remove the electrical load and allow the generator to run for a period of time (to cool) before shutting it off.

The only thing protecting the generator's stator from overheating is a small "built in fan" that's mounted to the shaft. This works "OK" under normal load requirements, but on a hot day, when the RV air conditioner is desired, and the generator is tasked to produce at, very near, or even above its rated output capacity, the generator is being "set up" to fail.

While setting up the conditions so that it will "work to run the air conditioner" it is not "working within its design output and will likely not last as long as it should. It will "do it" but not without risking damage to the generator and/or the air conditioner.

It's sort of like towing a 30' trailer with a V-6 Explorer or towing it with a I-6 Cummins, both engines will tow the rig, but one is "loafing along" and the other is "working its heart out" to keep you moving. One will last significantly longer than the other, even though they both will "do the job". That 1600 watt generator that produces a maximum of 13.3 amps is "working its heart out" to keep you cool.

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