Very little braking from my camper?

Campy · 03-18-2019, 01:40 PM

Trying to track down an brake issue I have had with my Cougar for awhile now and looking for help or insight. Could never get full braking power even when new, dealer said it will take time to "bed" in the shoes but the stopping power never did improve. Now I"m looking for a reason? At first we thought it was the built-in controller in the truck so I installed a Prodigy controller, slightly better. When applying full manual power to the brakes the rig will barely slow down. I'm thinking it's a wiring issue on the camper itself, appears to have 14g wiring for the brake wire. I have larger wire on my speakers!

Tbos · 03-18-2019, 02:29 PM

I’d think a very thorough inspection of each wheel and the brake assembly on it. Maybe you’ve had some leaking seals from day one. I’ve always been able to lock up the RV tires as a test. Hope you are able to get it resolved.

ADQ K9 · 03-18-2019, 02:48 PM

Ditto on what Tom said. If you can't lock them up, something is wrong.

**JRTJH** · 03-18-2019, 04:17 PM

I would urge you to not consider the wiring. EVERY trailer that Keystone produces uses essentially the SAME wiring, so if it was wiring, we'd all be having the same problems... We aren't and it's not the size of the wire. There may be a loose or disconnected wire somewhere, but the size is sufficient for our trailers, it is for yours too.

First, pull the hubs, inspect the brakes carefully. My guess is that someone, somewhere has used the EZ Lube system to inject some grease into the hubs, blown a seal and you'll find the brakes saturated with grease.

Let us know what you find when you do the visual inspection. Photos would be helpful.

gearhead · 03-18-2019, 04:53 PM

Try this first....drive around town using the brakes normally. Find a safe place to pull over. Check the temps of the outer edge of the drums with a infrared temp gun. You will at least discover if just one or two is working. From there I would check the wiring. I had the same problem and just replaced with 4 complete brake assembly with eTrailer.com parts. I used marine butt connectors heat shrink with heat shrink sleeves over that.

HitFactor · 03-18-2019, 05:08 PM

Take it to a mechanic. One you already have a relationship with is best.

Forget about the dealership, you know, the idiot that said the shoes have to bed.

Campy · 03-18-2019, 06:41 PM

Still checking but been through each wheel and no grease leaks on any. My trailer does have the EZ-lube axles but I refuse to use them, I pack the old fashion way,... by hand.

Javi · 03-18-2019, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Campy

Still checking but been through each wheel and no grease leaks on any. My trailer does have the EZ-lube axles but I refuse to use them, I pack the old fashion way,... by hand.

I just have to ask... what are you considering FULL stopping power?

I test my Cougar 333MKS brakes when rolling at approximately 5 mph. I apply the paddle and if the rig stops, I'm good.

I want the trailer brakes to provide drag to assist with stopping, not to stop the complete rig.

HitFactor · 03-18-2019, 07:40 PM

Is that what the owners manual specifies for checking the trailer brakes? My manual is different from that, but there could be differences.

I would only recommend following the manual for testing.

This is a huge safety issue. If he was driving overweight this forum would come down on him like a ton of bricks. It's been going on since new, 5 seasons.

Guess what, without proper braking he is overweight.

New computer, wire gauge, grease contamination, no, no, and no. Quit guessing and driving unsafely.

Take it to a mechanic.

nellie1289 · 03-18-2019, 08:23 PM

So I find on my trailer that there is little stopping power when I first hook up but after towing around a while they work much better. Is this normal. I still think they are weak no matter how much I adjust the gain even to like 7-8. When I hook up my 8k lb cargo trailer they lock up instantly even at 3-4.

roadglide · 03-18-2019, 08:39 PM

Mine came. From the dealer with wires rubbed through by the tire . I expect that caused the magnet on the left side to score the drum . I check my trailer brakes slightly down hill truck in natural and set at 7 when it stops 23000 lbs that's good for me .

RCW · 03-19-2019, 05:06 AM

The brakes do need to "bed in". All brakes have a break in period when installed before they become fully effective. This is even more of an issue on drum brakes. The other issue is that our trailers sit for long periods without the brakes being used. This allows rust to build up on the surfaces. So you way need to apply the brakes several times to clean them off.

To the original OP, the first thing I would do is pull the emergency break away cable out. This should apply the brakes hard enough that you will skid the trailer tires while pulling with your TV. This should isolate the problem between the Trailer and the TV

German Shepherd Guy · 03-19-2019, 05:29 AM

I dunno guys but Campy says this has been a problem from day 1. Packs bearings the old fashioned way by hand and an inspection shows no grease. I agree with Hitfactor, this is now a job for a good mechanic as safety is involved. NOT the dealer who basically refused to admit a problem. I live very rural, far from RV guys but my local mechanic is really good and also knowledgeable about electric drum breaks. So I am guessing (of course we all know what assume stands for

) that Campy should be able to find someone close who can troubleshoot the brakes.

So why don't TT's come with disc brakes standard now? Not that there is an answer to this that doesn't come down to $, but after the initial change over it is hard to believe that cost would be much different.

Campy, good luck, I will be interested to hear the final resolution to this just for my own benefit if nothing else so please keep up the thread.
Oak.

RCW · 03-19-2019, 07:39 AM

I could not agree more that this is a serious safety concern. It sounds as though the OP mentioned the issue to the dealer when the trailer was new. The initial thought that it was just a break in issue is reasonable. By the way the break in period could be shortened dramatically if the shoes were cam ground to match the drums by the manufacture. But I think that is a lost art.

The recommendation I made was not a repair. It was just to help isolate which one was at fault. Ultimately a qualified tech needs to check the system out.

HitFactor · 03-19-2019, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCW

The brakes do need to "bed in". All brakes have a break in period when installed before they become fully effective.

That was five years ago, hardly relative in the context of this thread.

The dealer was deflecting responsiblity.

RCW · 03-19-2019, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HitFactor

That was five years ago, hardly relative in the context of this thread.

The dealer was deflecting responsiblity.

The original post states that he ask the dealer about it when he first got the trailer. How would it not be relative if the OP stated it in his first post to explain the situation? As I stated before there is a break in period for brakes and even more of one for drum brakes. Since neither one of us were apart of the OP's conversation with the dealer, I don't think we would be qualified to determine the intent of the partys involved.

rjrelander · 03-19-2019, 12:16 PM

We had our brake controller installed at the RV dealer. I didn't really know what trailer brakes were supposed to feel like at the time but they seemed weak. Finally bothered me enough that I checked the wiring only to find that the ground wire to the controller under the dash was hanging by a thread. Rewired the controller and has worked great ever since. Luckily, our trailer is light enough that I could stop it by putting out my foot. I have some pictures sitting on my phone that I should upload at some point.

HitFactor · 03-19-2019, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCW

The original post states that he ask the dealer about it when he first got the trailer. How would it not be relative if the OP stated it in his first post to explain the situation? As I stated before there is a break in period for brakes and even more of one for drum brakes. Since neither one of us were apart of the OP's conversation with the dealer, I don't think we would be qualified to determine the intent of the partys involved.

It's not relative. The dealer was shirking his responsibilities.

Are you saying that new brakes are unsafe as the new owner pulls off the lot? Do we have to wait for brakes to bed before they are safe? I doubt that's what you are saying.

**JRTJH** · 03-19-2019, 04:40 PM

The OP lives in Preble County, Ohio. That's 175 miles (give or take) from Goshen. The trailer "somehow" got from the factory to the dealer's lot. I'd suspect being towed ???? I'd also suspect that the brakes would have "bed in" in that distance. So IMHO the dealer was blowing smoke saying they needed "further wear in" before working properly. At any rate, that was 5 years ago and the OP is currently concerned with his braking action. Whether it "never worked properly" or "There was improvement with the Prodigy controller" or some other cause, the fact remains that "after 5 years of towing, is it really an emergency now?"

Granted, the trailer should have adequate braking, and the brake system needs to be checked by someone who can competently inspect and repair the system. But, for us, with no knowledge of how far the trailer has been towed in the past 5 years and whether the brakes have ever (EVER) been properly adjusted, or even if they ever worked properly, well, there's really little "assurance" that things are good or bad, worn or in OK condition, operating properly or not, magnets adequately applying brakes or slipping, glazed drums or worn brake shoes.... In other words, on a 5 year old trailer that has been consistently used with the current brakes in the condition they are currently in (from new to now), well, there's really no way on this green earth that anyone can "diagnose from 500 miles away" or "offer accurate advice on repair" The only "accurate advice" is, IMHO, find someone who knows how to repair trailer brakes and hire them to get your system working the way it should. My guess would be that will include new brake shoes, magnets, backing plates and having the drums turned as well as repacking the bearings and replacing the seals.

RCW · 03-19-2019, 05:52 PM

There sure has been a lot of finger pointing at the dealer for something that's not "relative".

How many times do you think they stopped that trailer on the way over to the dealer?

I also live in Ohio. And I just took delivery of a new trailer in Jan. Because our first trip with it was to Savannah Ga. I took the brakes apart and checked them along with packing the brg's. The shoes were not even close to being bed in. The brakes worked but as our trip went on, I found that I had to make several adjustments to the controler because of them beding in.

I also believe that there is something else wrong with the OP's rig and that would be the reason why I sugested that he pull the emergency pin on the trailer brake system to help isolate the problem.

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