questions about a 2015 Ford F-250SD XL Truck

[byrdr1]

Ok, got a few questions for my forum family.
I have a chance to buy this truck at what I think is a good price.
It has cruise and power windows and door locks. no carpet floors, not a big deal because my carpeted truck has husky liners & I have never seen the carpet much. manually pull out mirrors. It's just an XL. NOT big on the bells and whistles stuff, a manual 4X4 also stick on the floor.
BT my biggest questions are:
short bed? good with my cougar 327res?
I have never had a short bed with my camper. Loss of the little extra room?
would a 250 short bed with 6.7 tow fine?
I cant think of much else. the 4x4 I don't think would be a big deal but? Would it?
Just some things going through my mind.
I need to move on a truck this year while I still have time to pay for it before I retire. I have been pricing and test driving for around a month now.
I was stuck at 2014s f-350 long beds for the price point but this 2015 looks good too except its a short bed.
I am a ford guy mostly but the newer dodges sure do look nice too except that side view mirror??

thanks
randy

[Javi]

I towed my 333MKS with a '12 F250 8' bed... not enough truck, the Dually is much more comfortable for my trailer.. at 12,350 pounds and with all the storage in front of the axles the pin weight is 2600 to 2800 depending on trip load.. and can jump to 3K on occasion..

How does the 333MKS compare to your 327RES ?

[xrated]

I'm guessing that you're prospective truck isn't going to be enough truck for that trailer. Pin weight alone is going to be approaching 2500 lbs, the the hitch will add another 175 lbs or so, and all of that is before you add in the weight of any passengers, cargo, ect. When all of that is done, (you are most likely well over 3000 lbs) and that truck probably doesn't have that much payload capacity. Check the yellow/white sticker on the driver side door post and see what it says. Without more info on the truck, it's hard to tell what you've got!

[rick-eureka]

I have a '15 F-350 that tows a 30'Keystne Raptor with absolutely no problem. My truck is a 'short bed'. No problems, think you will be happy and fine.

[JRTJH]

The 2015 Ford XL F250 will "pull" your trailer without any issues. The problem, as mentioned several times above, is the pin weight for that trailer. It's going to weigh more than the payload for the truck and you're going to be well above the 10K GVW limit.

That said, the question you have to ask yourself is: Do I care about the GVW limit or am I one of those who can argue that it's an artificial limit and the truck is "really just like the F350 except for that darned door sticker".....

My thoughts (and I own a 2015 F250 diesel) is to skip the truck and look for a F350. None of us can predict where law enforcement and insurance companies are going to position their focus in future years. You're buying this "while I can still afford it, before I retire". Why gamble that LE and insurance companies are going to continue to look the other way on overloaded 3/4 ton trucks? That's a gamble I wouldn't make if my resources were limited and I was approaching retirement. YMMV

[Ken / Claudia]

The bed length short or long will not matter much at all. A longer wheelbase tow vehicle is the best but, with those trucks until you are asking about a 5er it's mainly just your choice. The GVWR is a factor as others mention when looking at that truck pulling that trailer.
By the way a co worker just got back from a big cattle auction where a Dodge dealer was selling 2500/3500 trucks at real low prices. He shows me a photo and said the dealer is having a hard time selling these. Well, I looked and said yeah I know why there all short beds, ranch guys need long beds. He said yeah, that's what the dealer told him too.

[sourdough]

Just looking at the specs of a 327RES, 2017, shows it has a gvw of 12,225. The pin weight plus hitch will probably put it over payload; add people and it may be over truck gvw. We were looking at 5th wheels in the 13k or so range and it would require no less than a 1 ton for me. Not because my 3/4 HD won't pull it, but simply due to payload/gvw. I have a 3190 (3090?) payload and 10k gvw and don't want to go there with this truck.

[ADQ K9]

Yellow sticker on the door as others said, and your actual pin weight. Should be how you shop. IMO

[kfxgreenie]

I have a 2012 327RES towing with a shortbed 6'4" ram diesel. I do have an Andersen Hitch which sets the pin behind the rear of the axle. Haven't died yet nor hit the truck with the cap, and I'll leave it at that.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by kfxgreenie

I have a 2012 327RES towing with a shortbed 6'4" ram diesel. I do have an Andersen Hitch which sets the pin behind the rear of the axle. Haven't died yet nor hit the truck with the cap, and I'll leave it at that.

Out of curiosity what short bed ram are you towing with? 2500/3500/??

[byrdr1]

thanks..
that helps my thoughts on this.
I knew it would be close to the weight limits.
and the price was just in the sweet spot. I really want a f350 long bed.
I did look at dodge tradesman dually(new) the price was there but just not sure I really want a dually. OR brand new.. If I could afford a new f350 or one a year old, I found one BUT the prices now...
So back to the drawing board.
thanks all,
randy

[xrated]

Glad we could help....and good luck with your search.

[kfxgreenie]

Originally Posted by sourdough

Out of curiosity what short bed ram are you towing with? 2500/3500/??

A HD one! 2500

[gearhead]

A F350 will be better....but..check the GVW and payload. I had a 2014? F350 SRW with only a 3267# payload. I was well over that with our 12,500#GVWR Montana HC that had a 2175# advertised pin weight. Some of the Fordites here might know if Ford makes the F350 SRW with different GVWR. I checked my dealers lot and found many with even less payload. Walked next door to the Ram dealer and ordered the same equipped Ram 3500 with 4018# payload.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by byrdr1

thanks..
that helps my thoughts on this.
I knew it would be close to the weight limits.
and the price was just in the sweet spot. I really want a f350 long bed.
I did look at dodge tradesman dually(new) the price was there but just not sure I really want a dually. OR brand new.. If I could afford a new f350 or one a year old, I found one BUT the prices now...
So back to the drawing board.
thanks all,
randy

Your on the right track looking at a 350/3500 long bed. If look looking at an F350 make SURE you check the VIN for the GVWR, as Ford will make/sell a F350 with a GVWR of 10,000# no more than a F250!

Think about looking at the other two one tons. It will increase your chances of finding one you like.

[Travelinlou]

I would go with the longbed if your pulling a 5 th wheel, otherwise you need to think storage and ride. You get about 1.5 ft of extra storage to bring along those extras (gen, bikes, etc). But the longbed rides a great deal better. I’ve had both, towed trailers, goosenecks and 5ths. Went with a 2015 F-350 4x4 with under 48k on it. Spent the $110 to get it inspected by Fords ESP Warrenty team and now have myself covered through 2023. Plulls my Impact 311 like it was not even there.

[Travelinlou]

I agree, check your GVRW, pay attention to hitch weight. Then work out your estimated cab and cargo. Then calculate the load you have at hitch plus pull. You need to fit the tow vehicle to the trailer demand. You can often find a 1 ton SRW at the same price as a F250. Remember, truck, boats and planes are a buyers market, someone has the right package to do your trailering safely and right. Don’t be afraid to internet shop, I found 3 on the west coast, the first one inspected, fit the bill and the dealer shipped it for $750.

[Travelinlou]

Totally agree. If your overloaded and have an accident, even if it was not your fault, the LE May hold you responsible and Insurance not pay. Do your homework.

Start here: http://changingears.com/rv-sec-tow-v...derstand.shtml

It has a lot of details on the right tow vehicle specs to consider. Also for a great hitch that is 75% lighter, check out https://andersenhitches.com all aluminum 5th and tow products.

[goducks]

Originally Posted by Travelinlou

Totally agree. If your overloaded and have an accident, even if it was not your fault, the LE May hold you responsible and Insurance not pay. Do your homework.

Start here: http://changingears.com/rv-sec-tow-v...derstand.shtml

It has a lot of details on the right tow vehicle specs to consider. Also for a great hitch that is 75% lighter, check out https://andersenhitches.com all aluminum 5th and tow products.

Nonsense. Insurance is required to pay in the event of an accident. The OP probably 100% would be dropped by the ins co though.

[Travelinlou]

First each State has laws on this GCWR. For example, Texas , Illinois, etc. will ticket you for pulling any combined weight exceeding 26001, if you do not hold a Class A (not a CDL commercial license) and drive with a Class C, get into an accident, the lawyer fees, lack of coverage and liability are in the air, BIG TIME.

So size does matter. If your Combined GCWR weight rating exceeds 26001 ( truck/trailer combo) on the DOT sticker and you have an accident and/or are ticked for not having the right license class, THEN your driving without a license. That is a requirement of the insurance contract, and you could lose everything. Don’t play with fire.

Note, this 26001 or greater is the sticker GCWR, not your actual weight of the units that require a Class A (non-CDL)

Again know your rules and the legal requirements for combined weight. My tow unit load is 10400, my trailer is 15450, I’m legally under the 26000 max for my class of driving license. Next I check both tow dead load vs tow load. Fully loaded I’m about 10000lbs under my GVW. My actual trailer GVW Is 15300, but my loaded weight is only 12500. I know becouse I weighed both separately, then combined and it came under 22500. So my GVW, GCVW and my Class C license are fine.

TX & IL registrations state about the same (IL used here)

Class A — Any combination of motor vehicles with a gross combined weight rating (GCWR) of 26,001 pounds or more, providing that the vehicle being towed is in
excess of 10,000 pounds. Does not include motorcycles or motor-driven cycles. (A
CDL is generally required.)

Class B — Any single motor vehicle with a GVWR of 26,001 pounds or more or any
such vehicle towing another not in excess of 10,000 pounds. Does not include
motorcycles or motor-driven cycles. (A CDL is generally required.)

Class C — Any motor vehicle with a GVWR of more than 16,000 pounds but less
than 26,001 pounds; or any such vehicle towing another with a GVWR of 10,000 pounds or less; or any such vehicle designed to carry 16 or more passengers, including the driver, or hazardous materials that require placarding.

Does not include motorcycles or motor-driven cycles.

Also note: Motorhomes with A Dingy in tow have a different requirement, but here we are talking truck/trailer combos only.

The more you know, the safer you can keep things enjoyable and stay legal. No judgement here, just insuring everyone understands the issues. Everyone then can make there own decisions accordingly. Never take a RV salesman’s word on these issues, good luck.