WD hitch question.

Laredo240MK2015 · 08-26-2018, 03:43 PM

I have towed our 29RKPR a few times. I have a Fastway E2 hitch which was transferred from our older trailer. The dealer did not adjust the hitch as I hoped but it seems to work. I recently weighed the combo and believe it is not distributing the weight to the front as well as it should.
I downloaded the E2 manual and the first thing I noticed is that the ball and the top of the coupler should be level.
The image is what I have. It looks like I need to really drop the ball by inverting the T-Bar. Is this correct?

Thanks
Steve

Wxman · 08-26-2018, 04:08 PM

I say "maybe". Ball height equal to hitch height is a starting point for the entire setup process. What are your measurements at the TV front axle and is the trailer level or just a little nose low when hooked up with WD and loaded for the trip? Not sure whether you want to start over from scratch or check what you have and improve if possible.

**sourdough** · 08-26-2018, 04:13 PM

Who set that hitch shank up? It appears your ball is mounted upside down on the shank. On all the hitch shanks I've owned and seen in pics, including Fastway (and their instructions) the hitch shank is mounted in the receiver with the triangular gusset on the bottom, not the top. Looks like you need to take the thing completely apart and re install it according to the instructions.

Edit: If you are going to dismantle it and re install you will need some healthy torque wrenches, big, thin wall sockets and a lot of "tug"...300-400 lbs. if it's anything like an Equalizer.

madmaxmutt · 08-26-2018, 05:05 PM

Assuming the truck and trailer are completely level on a level surface (in this picture), your shank and hitch needs to flip. It appears you would use the same holes but the shank would be pointed down. They can certainly be mounted this way, but the trailer would have a higher level tongue height than is shown in your picture.

When they are attached, is the trailer level? Need pics of the combo hitched to get a better idea of the stance.

**chuckster57** · 08-26-2018, 05:29 PM

We have turned shanks “up” to get the proper ball height. Your dealer “short changed” you by not taking the 10-20 minutes needed.

**sourdough** · 08-26-2018, 05:34 PM

Not to argue, but I think (and Fastway can confirm) but the triangular gusset is to reinforce the hitch from the downward pressure of the tongue (my conversation with Progressive). In that position the welds simply hold the gusset in place and the metal of the gusset reinforces the space between the tubes. With the gusset on top, the only additional "support" for the tongue weight are the welds on the gusset....not the same thing and does not give you the support they advertise. OP can verify but I'm sure that will be the answer. On the bright side, flipping the hitch will give the needed adjustment to lower the ball....if everything was level in the pic.

**chuckster57** · 08-26-2018, 05:43 PM

No argument taken, but consider this: if the TV reciever sits too low, and putting the head at the highest set of holes leaves it too low, how do you fix that without modifications to the suspension? Send the proud new owner home and tell him/her to come back when the reciever is say 3” higher?

Granted turning it UP is rare, and you bring up a question that I will have my boss look into in the morning.

**sourdough** · 08-26-2018, 05:48 PM

I believe I've seen shanks where the upper portion is taller, like some have the bottom portion longer, to accommodate various heights but they keep the gusset under the shank for support. From memory....and, as we know, it's sort of sketchy as time goes on....

Plus, I'm thinking I've not seen a trailer (unless lifted) that has a tongue taller than a TV receiver unless the TV has some anomaly making it "low". I've never had to invert the ball to fit the trailer height.

**JRTJH** · 08-26-2018, 06:19 PM

Reading the "yes/no" "can/can't" responses, I decided to go to the Fastway Hitch site and download the instructions for the Fastway E2 hitch.
https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/pdf/e...structions.pdf

On page 10 is Figure 3 and this comment: "In some cases, the shank may need to be turned upward so that the ball can be placed at the correct height. See Figure 3."

Figure 3 is a diagram of the hitch shank with the gusset on top.

**sourdough** · 08-26-2018, 06:22 PM

Thanks John. Stand corrected. I wouldn't run it that way, but.....
I didn't read all the way to the bottom. Should have but agree with the other info I've heard.

Also, I just read through the Progressive instructions, despite what I was told when modifying my hitch, the instructions say the same as Fastway; you can turn the hitch upside down. My apologies to the OP; I didn't dig deep enough and "assumed".....

**chuckster57** · 08-26-2018, 06:29 PM

You just gave my boss one less thing to research for me.

**sourdough** · 08-26-2018, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

You just gave my boss one less thing to research for me.

Sorry Chuckster. I'll read all the way to the bottom next time.

**chuckster57** · 08-26-2018, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sourdough

Sorry Chuckster. I'll read all the way to the bottom next time.

Danny, it’s all good. He wouldn’t have looked it up anyway.

madmaxmutt · 08-26-2018, 06:48 PM

Yes, every shank Fastway sells is a drop/rise shank. They can be used (as required) either way. They sell them directly with definitions.

**sourdough** · 08-26-2018, 07:03 PM

I just want to clarify because 1) I don't like to be wrong, 2)I hate to misguide anyone and 3) I now know why I made this error and hate it.

I have racked my brain and memory tells me Progressive did not tell me about the gusset. I've had many conversations with them about my various hitches; extended, mounting etc. and in memory it was them. The conversation I had about the gusset was with a machinist outside Tallahassee as I was working to modify it. My memory was that it was Progressive because I've interacted with them; in reality it was the machinist explaining his thoughts on the design - I mixed those up. I did not read through the entire manuals of either "assuming" from my memory. My apologies to the OP, Chuck, John and everyone else. I've got a plate load going on and hoped to help...I didn't.

**chuckster57** · 08-26-2018, 07:42 PM

No apology needed as far as I’m concerned.

Laredo240MK2015 · 08-27-2018, 02:58 AM

Thanks everyone, it looks like I have to do some adjustment. Yes the TV and TT are on a level surface and the TT is leveled by measuring the frame to ground at the front and back of the trailer. The really strange thing is that the hitch was set this way with our 2015 Laredo which I believe rode a bit lower than this one. Different dealers but apparently the same incompetence.
The reason I even questioned it was when I went to a weigh station and saw that the front looked light. The numbers were: Steer Axle 3200, Drive 3650, Trailer axle 5820 Gross 12700. The TV is a Silverado CC 1500, it is well within spec as axles are rated at 3950 and GCWR 15000. The trailer dry weight is supposed to be 6172, which is another puzzler since that showed light as well on the scale. I wasn't able to unhook and just measure the trailer, perhaps next time.

Wxman · 08-27-2018, 04:11 AM

Don't forget, a portion of your trailer weight is being carried by your TV axles. Also, how was trailer loaded? Full LP? Loaded for a trip or just the stuff you have stored in RV? Etc.
I have similar truck, but smaller trailer. My numbers to compare: Steer 3260. Drive 3460, Trailer axle 4600, gross 11320. I have a tongue weight of 700 (measured by tongue scale) which gives me a trailer weight of ~5300 loaded for travel (reported dry weight 4384). I feel my hitch setup is 'by the book'.
And yes if your truck front end measurements show it is light adjusting your hitch to distribute more of the weight will increase the steer and trailer axle numbers and reduce the drive axle number.

cavediver · 08-27-2018, 04:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sourdough

Not to argue, but I think (and Fastway can confirm) but the triangular gusset is to reinforce the hitch from the downward pressure of the tongue (my conversation with Progressive). In that position the welds simply hold the gusset in place and the metal of the gusset reinforces the space between the tubes. With the gusset on top, the only additional "support" for the tongue weight are the welds on the gusset....not the same thing and does not give you the support they advertise. OP can verify but I'm sure that will be the answer. On the bright side, flipping the hitch will give the needed adjustment to lower the ball....if everything was level in the pic.

OK I won't argue, but having worked with metal my whole working life. The gussets are stronger that way. It's pushing down on the tongue trying to stretch the gusset. It's harder to pull the gusset then to collapse it. Take a piece of paper in your hands and pull it straight apart then try to push it together it's the same thing.

Laredo240MK2015 · 08-30-2018, 12:22 PM

After the readjustment and checkout my front fender is only 1/2 inch higher than it is with no trailer. We are heading out tomorrow for the holiday, I will see how it does then. First stop will be the scales. I think I also might need to invest in a hitch scale. Time will tell.

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