Towing capacity

[MattE303]

Originally Posted by pikespeakviewer

Thanks everyone.
No, I have not weighed the truck with or without the trailer. Can we just pull into the the weigh stations and use the scales?

I don't think they like that, find a CAT scale nearby, they'll charge you about $10-12 and give you separate weights for each axle. Weigh the truck by itself, then truck and trailer together, this will give you all the numbers you need after doing a little math.

https://catscale.com/cat-scale-locator/
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[Number 4]

Originally Posted by itat

The 5.0L engine will have the power to pull the weight but can the truck carry the weight you'll be asking it to carry?

I'm with ctbruce. The first spec you'll exceed will always be the payload number, then the rear axle weight. That was certainly my experience.

So my advice is to forget the "towing" capacity and concentrate of the "payload" capacity of your pickup.

I second these comments and here are the numbers I added up when considering whether to buy a half ton Dodge Hemi or F-150. Either would pull my trailer but awfully close to or exceeding the max payload. I suggest you do the same number crunching exercise. As for me, I opted to get an F-250 which makes towing a breeze in the mountains and my knuckles stay nice 'n pink.

[meaz93*]

The Ford towing specs chart will tell you what your truck weighs dry.
My 14` Boost weighs 5687#'s.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by pikespeakviewer

Thanks everyone.

My dealership was able to provide me with my window sticker. We have max tow package, 3.5L ecoboost engine.

The truck door sticker shows me that we have L6 axle which is 3.73 axle ratio.

I believe we have 11,200lbs towing capacity, based on the attached chart.

I believe our payload is 1716#.

No, I have not weighed the truck with or without the trailer. Can we just pull into the the weigh stations and use the scales?

Our trailer is 7690lbs GVWR.

In reality you need to throw the "towing capacity" out of your mind and concentrate on the other, more important numbers.

Think of it this way; 1716 payload - 1000 lbs. tongue, -100/125 hitch, -350 for 2 people (more if kids), -40 for doggie, -150 for gear in the bed, etc. etc. You get the drift. With above scenario you are at 1665 and I am positive that is too conservative. Now, your rear axle GAWR is 4050. Lets say your truck weighs 5400 (should be close) and the distribution is 2900 front and 2500 back. 2500 on the rear axle from the truck, + 1665 from the additional load you have placed on it = 4165; you have now exceeded you rear gawr as well as being right at, if not over, your payload. Remember, you optimally want a minimum of 10 - 15% margin under your max numbers.

The above just starts into the numbers. A true weight from a scale (truck and trailer FULLY loaded for camping) will tell you where you are. I doubt it will be pretty.

You haven't stated the make/model/year of the trailer. That would help although the gvwr is good to know. Also, are you taking kids? That entails toys, bikes etc. = more weight.

A 1/2 ton unfortunately is just not cut out to carry a very big trailer. When you try to max it out and push the limits they become just as dangerous as trying to pull a 7000 lb. trailer with a mid size SUV. Safety should be the #1 thing in mind; if you have kids, even more so.

You might find this link helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwFLOBrADBs

[pikespeakviewer]

Originally Posted by sourdough

In reality you need to throw the "towing capacity" out of your mind and concentrate on the other, more important numbers.

Think of it this way; 1716 payload - 1000 lbs. tongue, -100/125 hitch, -350 for 2 people (more if kids), -40 for doggie, -150 for gear in the bed, etc. etc. You get the drift. With above scenario you are at 1665 and I am positive that is too conservative. Now, your rear axle GAWR is 4050. Lets say your truck weighs 5400 (should be close) and the distribution is 2900 front and 2500 back. 2500 on the rear axle from the truck, + 1665 from the additional load you have placed on it = 4165; you have now exceeded you rear gawr as well as being right at, if not over, your payload. Remember, you optimally want a minimum of 10 - 15% margin over your max numbers.

The above just starts into the numbers. A true weight from a scale (truck and trailer FULLY loaded for camping) will tell you where you are. I doubt it will be pretty.

You haven't stated the make/model/year of the trailer. That would help although the gvwr is good to know. Also, are you taking kids? That entails toys, bikes etc. = more weight.

A 1/2 ton unfortunately is just not cut out to carry a very big trailer. When you try to max it out and push the limits they become just as dangerous as trying to pull a 7000 lb. trailer with a mid size SUV. Safety should be the #1 thing in mind; if you have kids, even more so.

THANK YOU. I did need this spelled out for me. I appreciate it. Will talk with hubs tonight about this.

[johnlewis]

Check out this website: http://rvtowcheck.com/

This will tell you what your F150 is capable of towing. The GVWR, GCWR, etc. that you need to make the calculations should be listed in your Owners Manual. These values change from one model year to the next. These figures for your 2011 will be lower than the ratings for newer models. Somehow truck manufacturers have been increasing these weight ratings on the newer trucks - I'm not sure how.
My DW found this website while we were looking for a 5th wheel to full-time in. Based on it, we went from a 3/4 ton to a 1 ton dually.
Good luck working this out.

[CaptnJohn]

After the neighbor was injured I pulled his 7100# TT with an F150. The Equalizer 4 point did its job. 7.3 mpg was about the best ever seen. The EB did not get hot but did struggle on moderate mountains. Way under towing cap but slightly under payload. I made 6 trips of 350 miles, 710 round trip. Really felt great getting out of that and into my F350 pulling 14K# at 43'.

[itat]

If you have a CAT scale on your route, there’s no substitute for real actual weights to confirm your situation. Some folks are comfortable being overweight saying to themselves, “the Engineers built in a safety factor”. Others want all that safety factor to their advantage. I can say that the driving experience will be more comfortable if you aren’t very close to your max. payload and it’ll be less wear and tear on your truck.

[funbikerchick]

I just googled and found there is a CAT scale near me. For years I have read the suggestion from others (mostly on the Outback forum), but had no idea how to make that happen. When I pick my new trailer up next week, I plan to get it weighed on the way to my first weekend with it.

Thanks!

[Ken / Claudia]

Here out west we have DOT scales in many places. Most are open (maned) part time. If there like that in your state just go when there closed. Here the scales work always and weights displayed for free for any vehicle. As a state trooper we had to weight trucks, I did not mind a RV or non comm truck checking weight. Better done thou when trucks are not backed up, mainly the truck drivers on their schedule will get mad at you. Some troopers made comments about RVs, I said their just trying to be safe, let them check the weight. No big deal.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by pikespeakviewer

No, I have not weighed the truck with or without the trailer. Can we just pull into the the weigh stations and use the scales?

Our trailer is 7690lbs GVWR.

In Oregon and Washington you can pull through closed scales, Oregon have outside displays that can be seen from the TV.