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08-04-2018, 05:53 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Wytopitlock
Posts: 26
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Gas/electric water heater
First let me say hello all, I'm new to Keystone RVs . I recently purchased a 2011 Montana Mountaineer, my problem is the gas/ electric water heater doesn't seem to be working on the electric side, i haven't found a switch to turn it on electric...only a switch for gas. The heater comes on from time to time to reheat the water when no water is being used...I would think that electricity would maintain water temperature when not drawing any water...how do I turn on / determine if electric side is working.Thanks for any help you can offer.
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08-04-2018, 06:04 AM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,235
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Welcome to the forum!!
Make and model of water heater makes it easier. Some have a switch at the lower left corner on the outside, some have no switch at the water heater.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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08-04-2018, 07:08 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Mico, TX
Posts: 7,392
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Open the outside door of the water heater. There will be a tag in there telling you which brand of water heater you have. If it is a Suburban and 6 gallons, the tag will say SW6DE... the SW is Suburban water heater, 6 is the number of gallons and D is direct spark (propane) and E is electric.
There is an electric heater element controlled by an almost invisible black switch on the bottom/left sort of hidden under the gas pipe. Don't turn this switch on till tank is full and turn it off when the tank is empty or you are not in need of hot water. If left on and the tank is dry, the electric heating element will fry and will need to be replaced. Some RVs have an on/off switch in the cabin for the electric element and if you don't some folks use the circuit breaker marked for the water heater and flip it off to kill 120V to the thing but I don't like to use the circuit breaker myself.
There is a Suburban water heater video at this link that explains some of the differences between models:
https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/...gallon_09.0079
__________________
wiredgeorge Mico TX
2006 F350 CC 4WD 6.0L
2002 Keystone Cougar 278
2006 GL1800 Roadsmith Trike
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08-04-2018, 07:53 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Wytopitlock
Posts: 26
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Wow, thank you the fast reply and the exellent info...I will check for the switch first and then the breaker.
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08-04-2018, 07:55 AM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Wytopitlock
Posts: 26
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Ok thank you, pouring rain where Im at now but I'll investigate when it lets up.
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08-04-2018, 09:05 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Wytopitlock
Posts: 26
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Ok guys..I found the switch and is already on, the breaker is also on so....it looks like the element is burned out, I'll check the current at the heater to be sure its getting power but if it is then I'm up fpr an element. Appreciate the help.
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08-04-2018, 09:28 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Picacho, Az
Posts: 6,809
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If it's a Suburban heater there's a black over with 2 resets on it, remove that cover & make sure the 2 thermostats (1-120 volt & 1-12 volt) haven't shorted the wires against the tank, ours did this a couple years ago & had to trim the black over down to prevent it happening again.
__________________
Full-timed 10+ years
Sold '13 Redwood FB
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Replacement undetermined
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08-04-2018, 01:32 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Wytopitlock
Posts: 26
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Ok Thanks! I'll check that out.
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08-04-2018, 02:11 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Greenwood
Posts: 176
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If the switch on the outside at the water heater was already on, and if the water heater was drained the the element is now bad. Without water around them when they’re on, they get way too hot and will “pop”.
Figure out the size (gallon) water heater and you can buy the replacement element from camping world or on amazon for around $10. Also you should and can buy the special socket to perform the replacement there for around $5-6.
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08-04-2018, 02:19 PM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelin texans
If it's a Suburban heater there's a black over with 2 resets on it, remove that cover & make sure the 2 thermostats (1-120 volt & 1-12 volt) haven't shorted the wires against the tank, ours did this a couple years ago & had to trim the black over down to prevent it happening again.
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Push that black cover in the center to reset the thermostat on the unit. Try that first. If you own and know how to use a VOM it's easy to check.
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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08-04-2018, 08:56 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Eagle
Posts: 25
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I have the same setup and found that when I was hooked up I could only use one other high amp appliance along with the AC. If the heater element was on, then a hair dryer, microwave, etc would pop the breaker.
I fixed this by adding a relay right behind the control panel, switched by 12v and then at the circuit breaker. Now my hot water is on only when I want it to be. I can 'fail-safe' it by switching the power off at the heater when I winterize. Otherwise, the outside switch is always on.
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08-05-2018, 02:50 AM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Wytopitlock
Posts: 26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flybouy
Push that black cover in the center to reset the thermostat on the unit. Try that first. If you own and know how to use a VOM it's easy to check.
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The rain has stopped this morning so I'll be checking into this problem some more, thanks
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08-05-2018, 02:52 AM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Wytopitlock
Posts: 26
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Good info..thank you.
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08-05-2018, 02:55 AM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Wytopitlock
Posts: 26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FF/PM
I have the same setup and found that when I was hooked up I could only use one other high amp appliance along with the AC. If the heater element was on, then a hair dryer, microwave, etc would pop the breaker.
I fixed this by adding a relay right behind the control panel, switched by 12v and then at the circuit breaker. Now my hot water is on only when I want it to be. I can 'fail-safe' it by switching the power off at the heater when I winterize. Otherwise, the outside switch is always on.
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You sound knowledgeable about electricity, would it make a difference how this system work if i was hooked up to 30 amp (which I am) as opposed to 50 amp?
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08-05-2018, 04:28 AM
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#15
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Site Team | Emeritus
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 3,878
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A couple of pictures to help you and others.
1. Location of the on-off switch.
2. Switch is upside down to normal operation. Down is on. This picture shows the switch on.
3. Location of the thermostat reset buttons.
Good luck.
__________________
Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Impact 312
2017 Silverado 3500HD SRW
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08-06-2018, 09:29 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Eagle
Posts: 25
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No, assuming the circuit breakers are the correct amperage. If there has been no alterations there is no problem. Make sure you get a relay that can carry the appropriate 12v and 110v loads. The existing circuit breaker will protect the system as long as the hot goes through it before the relay.
When I purchased the relay I went to a local electronics store so I could be confident I got the right load capacities. I didn't trust something I didn't get my hands on first. A few connectors and a little bit of the right size wire is the only other parts you need.
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08-06-2018, 09:32 PM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Eagle
Posts: 25
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I just re-read your question and saw I didn't exactly answer. Sorry. It makes no difference... If you use your normal 30amp system it works as wired. If you use an adapter, all that does is leave off one leg of the service. You still only take in 30amps if you are using the correct pigtails.
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08-07-2018, 03:26 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Wytopitlock
Posts: 26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FF/PM
I just re-read your question and saw I didn't exactly answer. Sorry. It makes no difference... If you use your normal 30amp system it works as wired. If you use an adapter, all that does is leave off one leg of the service. You still only take in 30amps if you are using the correct pigtails.
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Ok thanks, I'll investigate further when I can free up some time. I appreciate your and and everyone's help....with that Im sure I'll conquer it.
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08-09-2018, 10:18 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Young America MN
Posts: 372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctbruce
A couple of pictures to help you and others.
1. Location of the on-off switch.
2. Switch is upside down to normal operation. Down is on. This picture shows the switch on.
3. Location of the thermostat reset buttons.
Good luck. Attachment 17881Attachment 17882Attachment 17883
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Must have been a Friday mfg, my switch is the right way on identical heater
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08-09-2018, 01:59 PM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Breinigsville
Posts: 51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryflew
Must have been a Friday mfg, my switch is the right way on identical heater
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Bro-ther...I had found mine was reversed and thought "I" was the guy who bought a unit that came off the line on a Friday or payday... Now I find out that most are reversed...and you happened to get the one odd-ball that works like a switch is supposed to work.
And this is why I keep coming back here. It's informative, AND entertaining.
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