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Old 10-09-2018, 03:26 PM   #21
Mrmiata
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B-O-B'03 View Post
Measure ohms across the connections of the element it should be fairly low, if not it is most likely bad.

As part of my shutdown procedure, after a trip, I flip the breaker for the water heater off, since I have 30 amp service at the parking pad and would hate for someone to flip on the heater, with no water in the tank.

-Brian
Sounds like a great idea to add to my to do list.. !
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Old 10-10-2018, 07:40 AM   #22
Bechard
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Followup

Well folks, I just spoke with the dealership and they just said not to bother poking around with my meter because I'm under bumper to bumper warranty. I'll be dropping it off Friday evening, and they estimate they'll get to it Tuesday or Wednesday at the latest, as they already have every possible replacement part for the Atwood water heater.

I should be picking up Wednesday next week to bring home and winterize.

The service manager did tell me that Dometic has changed suppliers for the water heater control boards recently due to quality issues, and they do have the newer version of the board in stock, which is what they suspect to be the issue.

I'll get back with an update when I pick it up next week. Thanks for all of the help and troubleshooting!
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Old 10-18-2018, 02:20 PM   #23
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Update time folks!

It turns out that one of the AC wires wiggled out of it's crimp and was still contained inside the plastic connector on my water heater. Prior to bringing the trailer in under warranty I did take a good look, and did see a male/female connector for the AC side of the water heater. I didn't bother taking the meter to it, as I'm still under bumper to bumper warranty.

I should have taken a photo while I had the compartment open to open the hot water bypass last night, but I didn't think to do so. Repair was recrimping the wire on this quick disconnect, and it fired right up. The technician checked other similar crimps and didn't find any problems.

I'm so very happy we took the new trailer out within a few weeks of purchase for a maiden break in voyage. The dealership was quick in fixing the issue and showed me the repair.

I just finished winterizing last night, dot it looks like we should be all ready for our next trip in March! I did take some of the advice here and turned the water heater breaker off to prevent accidental dry tank running.

Thanks folks, you're all an amazing source of insight and help, especially for this green travel trailer camper!
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Old 07-18-2020, 10:43 AM   #24
lcarver02
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Advice on Water Heater from 2 trailer owner

I thought the gas heaters were defective and not working properly on two trailers. Now I know it is my expectations that were wrong.

If you are hooked up to 120V use the Electric Heater. It pulls about 30 amps and warms pretty quick.

If you are on gas power only use the gas (don't have a choice). You may need to switch the ON/OFF switch inside the outer door (bend down to see it). I usually leave it off for a minute. Then it lights and works on Gas.

Replacing the sensors, switches, gas gap will make no difference if you try to make the heater work on gas and electric.
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Old 07-18-2020, 11:07 AM   #25
flybouy
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Originally Posted by lcarver02 View Post
I thought the gas heaters were defective and not working properly on two trailers. Now I know it is my expectations that were wrong.

If you are hooked up to 120V use the Electric Heater. It pulls about 30 amps and warms pretty quick.

If you are on gas power only use the gas (don't have a choice). You may need to switch the ON/OFF switch inside the outer door (bend down to see it). I usually leave it off for a minute. Then it lights and works on Gas.

Replacing the sensors, switches, gas gap will make no difference if you try to make the heater work on gas and electric.
30 Amp water heater? Wow, mine only has a 1,000 watt element. Where did you get that water heater ?
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Old 07-20-2020, 07:51 AM   #26
skids
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Originally Posted by flybouy View Post
30 Amp water heater? Wow, mine only has a 1,000 watt element. Where did you get that water heater ?
My Bullet’s stock element tested at 10.2 ohms.

If volts supplied are 120, and the resistance is constant (not changing with temperature), the current draw is I=v/R, 11.76 amps.

Power is current x voltage = 120 x 11.76, 1412 watts.
Power is voltage squared / resistance = 120^2/10.2, 1412 watts.
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