China bomb believer now

[mwemaxxowner]

Either way, I'm not crazy about the C rated tires. I'm stepping up to the d (107 load range.)

Even while figuring in the whole 7500 lbs that gives me a 10 percent margin. I know the truck is shouldering some of the load, but I don't want to play guessing games, and I need the tires on there before I hit the scales loaded up for a trip. I don't want to do a mock pack up, I just want to rough in the WDH, Get packed for the next trip we have planned, and the night before pull it to work and dial the WDH in. I'll see exactly what the trailer axles are supporting at that time, and I could even do a split between the axles.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by mwemaxxowner

Either way, I'm not crazy about the C rated tires. I'm stepping up to the d (107 load range.)

Even while figuring in the whole 7500 lbs that gives me a 10 percent margin. I know the truck is shouldering some of the load, but I don't want to play guessing games, and I need the tires on there before I hit the scales loaded up for a trip. I don't want to do a mock pack up, I just want to rough in the WDH, Get packed for the next trip we have planned, and the night before pull it to work and dial the WDH in. I'll see exactly what the trailer axles are supporting at that time, and I could even do a split between the axles.

Some figure the weight carried by the tires minus the tongue weight and that's fine. I do not. I use the gvw and try to add 10-15% carrying capacity in the tires. If I load less...good, I have more reserves. There are many times, due to the positioning of the truck/trailer, that the tires are carrying much more than their "appropriated" weight from a sitting level position.

I went from LRD to LRE on my trailer and instead of getting a "rougher", "bouncier" ride the ride in the trailer AND the truck seemed to be smoother. To each their own.

[mwemaxxowner]

I have no idea how to verify the weight rating of a wheel. If someone can tell me I'm all ears.

I need some keys for my camper, and Keystone seems extremely unwilling, or unable to help me with that, so I doubt they could/would tell me. It's an '05 Springdale 268 something or another. If I need to step up the wheel to a better one I will, or if I discover that I can't afford it maybe I'd then decide to bank on the tongue weight deduction and stick with a 50 psi tire. I have a hard time wrapping.y head around a steel rim not being able to stand up to 65 pounds of air pressure, but apparently it's so.

I apologize for derailing the thread. At first I think my questions were on topic, but it seems I've steered it off track and maybe need my own.

[Tireman9]

If wheels are original they should be OK at the rating of the original tires at a minimum. Some wheels have numbers stamped on brake drum side.

[Logan X]

Originally Posted by mwemaxxowner

I have no idea how to verify the weight rating of a wheel. If someone can tell me I'm all ears.

I need some keys for my camper, and Keystone seems extremely unwilling, or unable to help me with that, so I doubt they could/would tell me. It's an '05 Springdale 268 something or another. If I need to step up the wheel to a better one I will, or if I discover that I can't afford it maybe I'd then decide to bank on the tongue weight deduction and stick with a 50 psi tire. I have a hard time wrapping.y head around a steel rim not being able to stand up to 65 pounds of air pressure, but apparently it's so.

I apologize for derailing the thread. At first I think my questions were on topic, but it seems I've steered it off track and maybe need my own.

Attachment 22294

Usually you can find a max psi number or a max load rating stamped on the wheel. My guess is that your wheels can handle 65 psi. If you step up to LRD 65 psi tires, I would also suggest having them installed with metal high pressure valve stems.

It may look something like this:

[mwemaxxowner]

I don't think 65psi warrants metal valve stems, I think that's necessary when you step up to more like 100+ psi. But an upgrade might be needed. Just a good rubber stem will be fine.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by mwemaxxowner

I don't think 65psi warrants metal valve stems, I think that's necessary when you step up to more like 100+ psi. But an upgrade might be needed. Just a good rubber stem will be fine.

IMHO a rv needs metal valve stems regardless!! Just install them when replacing the tires & have one less thing to worry about.
Plus if you ever plan to install TPMS sensors they will be mandatory or expect the rubber ones to be breaking off regularly.

[Logan X]

Originally Posted by mwemaxxowner

I don't think 65psi warrants metal valve stems, I think that's necessary when you step up to more like 100+ psi. But an upgrade might be needed. Just a good rubber stem will be fine.

Tubeless snap-in valves for high-pressure applications are designed for medium and heavy-duty trucks and trailers and must be used when recommended cold tire inflation pressures exceed 65 psi. High-pressure snap-in valves for .453" rim holes allow a maximum cold inflation pressure of 80 psi while those for .625" rim holes allow a maximum cold inflation pressure of 100 psi. Typically used in steel wheels, high-pressure snap-in valves combine a thicker rubber snap-in base with a metal barrel and a plastic cap. Effective lengths range from about 1-1/4" to 2".

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...jsp?techid=208

[mwemaxxowner]

Right, these are both fine at 65 psi,and the latter is what was on my old super duty at 80 psi for 330,000 miles.

[Logan X]

Originally Posted by mwemaxxowner

Right, these are both fine at 65 psi,and the latter is what was on my old super duty at 80 psi for 330,000 miles.

Attachment 22303Attachment 22304

It sounds like we agree the high pressure valve stems are better.

[mwemaxxowner]

I mean I certainly think the correct stems for the job are necessary.

These are definitely not needed here. I wouldn't put stems rated for 65 psi in an 80 psi situation.

[Logan X]

Originally Posted by mwemaxxowner

I mean I certainly think the correct stems for the job are necessary.

These are definitely not needed here. I wouldn't put stems rated for 65 psi in an 80 psi situation.Attachment 22305

I was talking about the snap in high pressure valve stems you have pictured in post #69. 65-100 psi I think.

They are not required for 65psi but they are for anything over 65 psi, so why not. If your getting new tires just ask for them. They didn’t cost anything extra (at least they didn’t when I got my tires.)

Edit-do what you want (obviously), I was only making a suggestion. Maybe we were miscommunicating, if you thought I was talking about the clamp in high pressure valve stems you have pictured above, I was not. Good luck.

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by mwemaxxowner

I don't think 65psi warrants metal valve stems, I think that's necessary when you step up to more like 100+ psi. But an upgrade might be needed. Just a good rubber stem will be fine.

Standard rubber "snap-in" valves are only rated 65 psi max. Also the rubber in those valves can age-out just like tires can age out so if you insist on running rubber valves you need to change them whenever you get new tires.
Bolt in valves can also support TPM sensor better as some folks report rubber valve failure after installing TPM sensors.



Bolt in valves vs rubber fall under the "Penny wise - pound foolish" concept.

[mwemaxxowner]

I thought new valve stems with new tires was standard procedure. I've never had tires installed without a valve stem change. I don't see why a 65 MAX valve stem can't work with a 65 MAX tire.

Either way new stems are going to be installed, and I personally feel like bolt in all metal valve stems is way overkill. If they are in hand and not much more money, sure why not. But I'm not going to jump through any extra hoops to see to it that they are installed on my 65 psi max 107 load range tires.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by mwemaxxowner

I thought new valve stems with new tires was standard procedure. I've never had tires installed without a valve stem change. I don't see why a 65 MAX valve stem can't work with a 65 MAX tire.

That was true before the current vehicles with TPMS sending units as a part of the valve stem. No longer are valve stems "automatically changed out". Now, the OEM price for a Ford TPMS sending unit/valve stem is upwards of $40 for each wheel. If only the valve stem is changed out, you run the risk of damaging the TPMS part of the assembly. As other companies are moving to the same configuration, it's no longer an "automatic replacement of the valve stem with every tire change"....

For me, I question just how reliable the old valve stems are and whether Ford has an "official policy" but every Ford service center tells me a slightly different version of "what they do" and few "do the same thing"...... Officially, I have never seen a "FORD Policy" on TPMS maintenance/tire change protocol......

[MarkEHansen]

Do you plan to run a TPMS? If so, you're going to want metal valve stems.

[Tireman9]

Why are people so desparateto save a buck or two yet complain when tires fail because they didn't follow the "Best Practice" and only did the bare minimum to just get by.
Have to wonder if that is how they operated in their every day job and if that is what they want from people providing products and services. All the complaints about the poor quality in RVs today, yet the "just good enough" to have the RV get off the dealer lot is what RV companies are delivering today.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

Why are people so desparateto save a buck or two yet complain when tires fail because they didn't follow the "Best Practice" and only did the bare minimum to just get by.
Have to wonder if that is how they operated in their every day job and if that is what they want from people providing products and services. All the complaints about the poor quality in RVs today, yet the "just good enough" to have the RV get off the dealer lot is what RV companies are delivering today.

You know, that's something that makes one wonder. The RV industry (total) throws out "the just good enough to get off the dealer's lot" and we buy them up as fast as they can throw them out. The only thing I can see that would sway them to change their habits is to quit buying the "thrown together" units. But, if the buying public did that there would be no RVs a person could purchase, so, we keep buying and they keep "throwing them out" without one bit of incentive to change.

[CWtheMan]

When I say something has been recommended you can bet I have a reference. I just don't post all references.

This is a brief statement from the pages of USTMA. "Bolt-in (clamp-in) metal valve stems are recommended for RV applications." Its on page #41 in the RV chapter. When I quote a reference I tab it so I can go back to it anytime.

[mwemaxxowner]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

Why are people so desparateto save a buck or two yet complain when tires fail because they didn't follow the "Best Practice" and only did the bare minimum to just get by.
Have to wonder if that is how they operated in their every day job and if that is what they want from people providing products and services. All the complaints about the poor quality in RVs today, yet the "just good enough" to have the RV get off the dealer lot is what RV companies are delivering today.

I'm not desperate to save a buck, but I'm also not desperate to spend one I don't need to. I also haven't complained about anything. I've been rving since I was a little fella, and not a single RV we had, I have had, or that my family members have had were running metal clamp in valve stems. I will make sure that the valve stems and wheels I am running can handle 65 psi and that the valve stems are new. On a new vehicle with tpms sensors maybe not, dunno, but with any old school type of tire I always have and always will have them replaced with the tires. All of the advice here has been noted and is appreciated.