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Old 04-03-2019, 08:02 PM   #1
LHaven
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Total DC loss on the road?

After six months sitting in our driveway, our Cougar is finally on its first real trip (i.e., a destination other than the dealer's service bay). This rig has been a cast study in infant mortality. Before we even took it out, we had a problem with the HVAC refusing to turn on the furnace when the unit was too cold, or the AC when it was too hot (bad run of Dometic HVAC gateways). several days after that was fixed, the furnace refused to light (construction debris fouling the sail switch).

Now that we're on the road, we're discovering new and different problems. The stove fan doesn't operate, which is minor. The big puzzlement is the complete loss of DC when not attached to shore power.

We first noticed this when we tried to use our loo at a no-facilities rest area. We couldn't even get the inCommand screen to turn on so we could start the water pump. We verified that none of the DC gear was working, including the fridge and the simple pushbutton lights. We dreaded the thought of having to crank the slide in and out manually for the remainder of our trip. Of course, perhaps we had just blown one of the 40A fuses.

But when we got to our campsite and plugged in, our DC side started working fine again. I was pretty sure plugging in the AC wouldn't give us DC across blown fuses. So then we thought perhaps our battery was bad.

Here's the puzzlement. At no time on the road did we lose our TPMS transmitter, which is manually clipped to the battery leads inside the battery box. OK, I figured, maybe the transmitter will accept a wide latitude in input voltage, while my other systems won't. So I took the Interstate battery in to a convenient Interstate shop on the road today and had them run a load test while I watched. The battery passed with flying colors.

I suppose all that's left is for me to pull the 40A fuses and test them, regardless of my theory. If that doesn't pan out, does anybody have any suggestions as to what kind of a fault would cause these symptoms?
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Old 04-03-2019, 08:11 PM   #2
Old Mustanger
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Battery disconnect switch?
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Old 04-03-2019, 08:32 PM   #3
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That's an interesting suggestion.

I checked the switch, and it was set to "on." (The switch is labeled "battery disconnect," so does "on" mean the battery is connected, or the disconnection feature is active? The manual is no help, and the switch isn't provided by the relay manufacturer.)

I turned it a couple times, but with shore power connected, nothing obvious happened. I'll have to test it with shore power disconnected when I next strike camp. Of course, there's a chance it won't work in either position. But now at least I can add the switch and the relay as possible sources of this problem.

(I also discovered the key is impossible to remove in any position, although it comes with a "don't lose me" tether. Another thing to take up with the dealer when I get back.)
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Old 04-03-2019, 08:43 PM   #4
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The red plastic key will pull out when in the OPEN position, and will not pull out when in the CLOSED position. Whether the ON or OFF is the same as CLOSED or OPEN, I haven't figured out which it is, but just use the can or can't remove the key as the basis for it's closed or open. It will need to be turned fully in one direction or the other.
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Old 04-04-2019, 05:54 AM   #5
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If you have 12VDC power when connected to shore power then the issue is "in the battery supply system".

I'd first confirm that the battery is charged. You can do that by disconnecting one battery lead and using a test light/VOM to measure the battery output. It should be 12.6 VDC or around that. If the battery is dead, then you'll need to troubleshoot the "why" for that issue. If the battery is NOT dead, then move to the two 30 amp mini-breakers located on the trailer bulkhead between the two beams on the A frame. They will look like the photo I attached. Chances are one of them has failed.

If they are good, (you can test them by jumpering across the terminals to "bypass" the mini-breaker temporarily. Do not leave a jumper on either as it completely removes all protection for the system.

If the mini-breakers are good, then move to the power center and verify that you have 12 VDC on the battery cable coming from the battery. It should be connected to the same terminals as the converter/charger. If there is not 12 VDC there, then "backtrack" to find the problem.

My guess is that it's one of the mini-breakers. They are prone to failure and I'd guess that at least 50% of the "battery power problems" are with those two devices.
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Old 04-05-2019, 09:09 AM   #6
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The problem turned out to be the battery disconnect switch after all. Apparently, it has never been on, from the day I picked it up at the dealer.

Here is a photograph of what it looks like in the on position. I figured the fat part of the red key was the indicator. Nope, apparently we're supposed to look at it as if it's an arrow. An arrow that points to "battery disconnect on," which apparently means the battery is not disconnected. I could write an article about all the user interface rules that this design violates.

(And indeed, this key will not remove in any position.)

Thanks for putting me on the right track.
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Old 04-05-2019, 10:23 AM   #7
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The key should pull out in one of the positions (I'm guessing "off") so perhaps that's a bad switch and should be replaced.
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Old 04-05-2019, 11:11 AM   #8
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Mark and the others are correct (No, they don't need me to give their opinions credence). It should easily pull out in the 'off' position.
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Old 04-05-2019, 02:33 PM   #9
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The key may just be "stiff" in the slot. My OEM was very tight like the grooves were cut just barely big enough to let the key out. When I replaced it the key in the new one will almost fall out if it is "off". That's also what that little strap is for...to keep track of the key if it is off and the key is out.
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Old 04-21-2019, 02:13 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notanlines View Post
Mark and the others are correct (No, they don't need me to give their opinions credence). It should easily pull out in the 'off' position.
Discovered the answer today -- the key pops out easily, but only if turned about 20° PAST the off position.
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