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Old 05-11-2019, 12:33 PM   #31
cookinwitdiesel
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Well, got it listed today. On RVtrader, Craigslist, Keystone Classifieds, Facebook Marketplace. Time to see how the market looks....

I listed at $22k expecting to get haggled some.
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Old 05-11-2019, 05:15 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cookinwitdiesel View Post
Well, got it listed today. On RVtrader, Craigslist, Keystone Classifieds, Facebook Marketplace. Time to see how the market looks....

I listed at $22k expecting to get haggled some.
Good luck on the sale cookin! Let us know how it goes.
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Old 05-11-2019, 05:27 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cookinwitdiesel View Post
Well, got it listed today. On RVtrader, Craigslist, Keystone Classifieds, Facebook Marketplace. Time to see how the market looks....

I listed at $22k expecting to get haggled some.
Yep, good luck! Sold our old Passport on RVTrader in 2017. Craigslist will likely give you the worst options- people who schedule and never show up, people who try to offer you pennies, etc. Craigslist is awesome for selling mowers, tires, tools, etc. but typically awful for selling vehicles and other high dollar items. When you update us, please let us know which service the buyer utilized, for our own future reference.
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Old 05-12-2019, 04:30 AM   #34
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So far, 2 hits on Craigslist. One was a lowball $5k cash offer - I responded I would accept that as a down payment on a realistic sales price, lol.

Other was trying to get me to buy a Vehicle History Report from a suspect link that he provided - pass! I WILL purchase one from instaVIN (NADA partner) once I get notice from the bank via mail that the loan is satisfied (paid in full last week).

The joys of the internet
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Old 05-15-2019, 06:47 AM   #35
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Man....sometimes it sucks doing the right thing...lol

Here is an email I just sent to my only real seriously interested buyer:

Hi David,

Unfortunately this trailer would be a very tall order for any 1/2 ton pick-up. Making matters worse, your Raptor has a lot of the robustness that a normal 1/2 ton has removed in the name of performance (softer springs, shorter wheel base, different brakes and tires).

You are definitely doing the right thing in trying to figure out how you can safely pull the trailer you want. RideRite looks like airbags which are useful to level out the ride of a truck but do not improve its load carrying abilities. While I would love to sell you my trailer, my recommendation would be that if safety is a priority (and it sounds like it is, and should be!) you should strongly consider upgrading to a more capable truck. If you are a Ford fan, I would recommend an F-250 at minimum (otherwise, any 3/4 ton or higher model). You have options about gas vs diesel and other stuff, but pretty much any F-250 should be more than sufficient to pull this trailer safely. You may be able to find a "unicorn" F-150 half-ton with the exact right combination of options to make it work on paper, but it will still not compare to a true Super Duty truck when towing and if you do both, you will immediately understand that difference in comfort, safety, ease of handling, etc. The term people tend to use online is "white knuckling it" when driving with a trailer larger than their truck can comfortably/safely handle. The joy of camping goes up tremendously when you are not exhausted just after driving to the campsite.

I hope this helps some. I know there is a pretty healthy market for used trucks and yours should have a nice resale value as it is before Ford switched to aluminum components, has the older naturally aspirated V8 in stead of the EcoBoost turbo'd V6, etc. A lot of people seem to prefer the older versions. Similarly, I have observed that there is a pretty good selection of used SD/HD trucks as well if you do decide to upgrade.

Please let me know what you want to do and I am here to help as much as I can.

Thanks,


<Buyer> wrote:
Hi, Definitely interested, but I'm concerned about the weight. I have a 2010 raptors, which says towing is 6000 lbs. I'm trying to research why my towing is lower and if there are mods that allow me to tow as much as other f150s. Do you know what drives the difference in towing capacity and if I can change something? I read about riderite.
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Old 05-15-2019, 07:00 AM   #36
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Be prepared for a response like:

But I paid $60,000 for this truck and F250's sell for $45,000, so you're telling me that my truck isn't up to the task? I would take too big a loss by trading it in, so I'll keep looking until I find someone who will sell me the trailer I want.

You're right, sometimes it sucks to do the right thing. But, when all is said and done, you'll sleep well at night......
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Old 05-15-2019, 07:05 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Be prepared for a response like:

But I paid $60,000 for this truck and F250's sell for $45,000, so you're telling me that my truck isn't up to the task? I would take too big a loss by trading it in, so I'll keep looking until I find someone who will sell me the trailer I want.

You're right, sometimes it sucks to do the right thing. But, when all is said and done, you'll sleep well at night......
He seems to be approaching it all responsibly, so hats off to him. Hopefully he does the right thing and trades his Raptor for an F-250 and buys my trailer
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Old 05-15-2019, 11:12 AM   #38
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Sam, kudos to you for taking the high road. Good conduct (actually hard work) is its own reward. And John? "When all is said and done there will be more said than done!"
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Old 05-15-2019, 11:20 AM   #39
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If he comes back with, I am going to upgrade my truck, then I will counter with, buy my trailer now and I will deliver it to you so you have it when that new truck is ready.
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Old 05-16-2019, 07:35 AM   #40
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I really hope he understands that the F-250 minimum is the best option here. Are people really that intimidated by the SD/HD trucks?!

Hi David,

The trailer brake controller would be required, my trailer is equipped with electric brakes on the 2 axles and would be needed to safely slow down the trailer (especially in "emergency stop" scenarios). You will need to have a 7-pin trailer trailer connection (brakes + lights) not the usual 4-pin (just lights). Stiffer springs and the longer wheelbase are absolutely factors in trailer towing capacity. Your biggest limitation though will be payload. This is the vertical load you can put on your truck. From what I saw online yesterday, your truck has in the neighborhood of only 1000 pounds of cargo payload rating - my Mazda CX-9 has higher to give some perspective. You can confirm this number by looking at the yellow door jam sticker inside your driver door. 1000 pounds is VERY light for a truck - the Raptor is a "de-tuned" truck in the name of its off-road performance. They were never really intended to haul anything beyond the occasional Home Depot run. If the sales rep told you otherwise, he lied. That payload rating is what you can add to the truck. The number on your door jam sticker, indicates that the truck, as it rolled off the assembly line, can have X stuff added to it. The shipping weight + payload = GVWR for your truck. Out of that payload number you have to subtract the weight of passengers, cargo, equipment added too or loaded in the truck. That would include the weight of the trailer hitch, as well as the tongue weight of the trailer it self. As those both add to the vertical load on the truck. My trailer has a hitch that is probably about 100 pounds itself and a tongue weight I measured at 950 pounds. Your Raptor would be overweight before you even sat in it. A normal F-150 could handle this on paper, I think they can be spec'd up to around 2500 pounds of payload. You still have the issue of trailer weight vs truck weight though with an F-150 vs a F250/350. An F-150 usually will top out around 5000 empty, where as an F-250 will be 7500-8000 pounds. That extra weight helps a ton when managing the trailer and making sure it stays controlled. The Super Duty trucks also have a heavier duty transmission that can handle the weight of the trailer as well as engine braking to control speed safely down hills better as well as heavier duty brakes on the 4 truck wheels which are also important for safely stopping the trailer. It can definitely be pulled by the right F-150, but it will be more stressful than an F-250.

The towing rating is really only indicative of the "horizontal" load that the truck can handle. Mainly, the ability of the truck to stop a load at speed safely - starting slow is not as much of an issue as long as your transmission can handle the load. What the truck manufacturers do not advertise, is that they get their towing ratings certified using "weight sleds" which are like a flatbed trailer with weight added to simulate a load. The reason this is a problem, is that the profile of a travel trailer is much greater than that of a weight sled and because of this, aerodynamics are important. You are pretty much driving a billboard down the road and very subject to crosswinds as well as wind and air pressure created by other passing vehicles. This manifests itself as sway which if unchecked, can lead to dangerous conditions and rolling the trailer and/or truck. The longer wheelbase as well as heavier truck GREATLY help with managing sway. You do not want "the tail wagging the dog" so to speak.

I have measured the trailer tongue weight at about 950 pounds (picture attached - was before the trailer was fully loaded) with about 6500 pounds on the trailer axles (measured at a CAT scale). Conservatively, I would call the trailer 7500 pounds minimum when loaded for a weekend trip with all tanks empty. The trailer has a GVWR of 9660 pounds.

Attached is a picture of the payload rating sticker from my truck so you know what to look for. I pull the trailer with a GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali Diesel and even my truck is close to its limits. It pulls great, but I would prefer to have some more safety margin - I am 300 under the trucks GVWR when I go on a trip.

I would have to strongly recommend you consider and look at SD/HD trucks as they are truly better suited to pulling trailers this size. That being said, it can be done with the right F-150 but I do not think your Raptor can ever be that.

I hope this helps. Please let me know any other questions you can think of.

Thanks,
Sam


<Buyer> wrote:
Thanks for the update. I've seen f-150 variants that have 11000lbs towing capacity. It looks like they have the trailer brake controller, which I can get installed. My truck has the horsepower, so is it just stiffer springs that I need after that? Or do I need the long wheelbase?

How much is your trailer weight in Real life use?
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