New Tires, Jack, and Repair

[sourdough]

Just thought I would add this for a little clarification on "made in China" and what that means. Here is a link to Linglong Tire, 2nd largest tire producer in China. Note in the R&D comments and elsewhere they allude to the fact that THEY design and manufacture the tires in their own facilities. These tires are then branded ?? for whoever buys them. I figure it's like my tire failure as well as others, you have to look at the manufacturer code on the side to see where it came from. Coincidentally my failure (as well as others), documented by the plant code, came from Shandong Province....same place Linglong is located.....

https://en.linglong.cn/about/index.html

[dmcc625]

Lots of good info on the jack and tires. As far as the answer to your third question, what to do about the damage in wheel well area? When you say dented the wood, was it exposed or was it wrapped with the darco (black fabric)? I have had the same situation a couple of times. It is important to make sure you weatherproof that area as water will splash up from roadway into that area and cause more damage. If the darco is tore or ripped, I would use a good underbelly tape to cover the wood. Then something to spray over the are to make sure it is well protected from water. May get some negative reply’s to this, but I have used flex seal as well as a good auto body undercoating for this area. If the bed liner is waterproof that could also be a possibility. I would make sure the damage to the wood was not anything structural and if not seal it up good and enjoy the camper. Also important to know is if you spray flex seal or bed liner or whatever on the underbelly fabric it may sag. I used a small staple gun and stapled the fabric to the wood in a few areas before applying the spray on stuff to keep the fabric from sagging. To add my 2 cents to the tire question, I have purchased new Carlisle tires for the last few toyhaulers I have owned and am completely pleased with them. I have also used Sailun tires, but not sure if they are available in your size.

[CWtheMan]

Tire plant codes: https://wfirm.com/complete-list-of-t...t-plant-codes/

[CWtheMan]

Excerpt from page #58 of the attached reference: Considerations In Plus Sizing: ALWAYS refer to and follow the vehicle manufacturer's replacement tire recommendations. In some cases, a vehicle manufacturer may specifically advise against the application of replacement tires that are not the original size or type.


https://www.toyotires.com/media/a3gojikf/tiresafety.pdf

All tire manufacturers will have a similar statement in their PDF files. Toyo's is direct and to the point.

[FlyingAroundRV]

My 2¢ worth about things like TrailerAid;
Using a ramp device to raise one wheel off the ground risks bending an axle. The axles on RV are already marginal in their weight capacity. Raising one wheel off the ground with no support under it, put the weight that it would normally carry, on the other wheel on that side.
As an example, my trailers max weight is specified as #7600 but my axles are rated at #3500 each. Apparently, the thinking by the manufacturers is that 10-15% of the gross weight is carried by the TV. But if you share the weight that 4 wheels should carry, over only 3 wheels … well, I'll let you do the math.
The alternative of using a jack under the axle means that that axle is still carrying its share of the load.
I already bent one axle on my trailer simply by making a sharp turn out of a parking lot where there was a bit of a step up. I wouldn't tempt the fates and the numbers by putting the load intended for four wheels on only three.

[fourwalshes]

thanks for tge repair ideas..I have darco under the slide, but not above the tires. thus appears to be some type of paint

[flybouy]

Every time this subject is brought up the "jack only at frame" stipulation from Keystone and the theory that using a Traile Aid or wooden ramps etc to lift the axle with the flat will somehow end up bending the axle or damage the opposing tire.

IMHO the jack points recommended by Keystone are likely dictated by their legal dept and not engineering. I can't imagine jacking up a trailer by the frame on the side of the road nor carrying sufficient data cribbing to do it safely.

As bending the axle, again my opinion and experience it just ain't gonna happen. The trailer is in a static condition. Tight turns, running over cubes, hitting deep potholes at speed are all dynamic loads that can induce stresses and stress angles many times the static load. I'll close with this comment. I don't know how long it takes you to change a flat tire but for an old beat up man like me it's a matter of a few min.

The few times I've had a roadside flat my methodology is to stop, apply hazard lights, remove the Trailer Aid from the storage compartment and place infroont or behind the good tire. I remove the spare and set it near the flat tire. I keep a 20v Dewalt impact gun and wheel socket set with it so I attach the correct size socket and set that on the spare tire. THEN drive up on the ramp lifting the adjacent wheel off the ground. Using the impact gun the removal and replacement takes under a min. Drive off the ramp and put everything away and down the road we go.

I have never incurred any damage doing this and am confident that I won't cause harm doing this. As previously stated, I don't use the ramp for supporting the trailer while doing maintenance or repairs like brakes, bearings, etc. I will use the ramp initially then use a bottle jack under the end of the axle to transfer that weight to the ground for the extended time that it's in the air.

These are my experiences and opinions, YMMV.

[gearhead]

Originally Posted by flybouy

Every time this subject is brought up the "jack only at frame" stipulation from Keystone and the theory that using a Traile Aid or wooden ramps etc to lift the axle with the flat will somehow end up bending the axle or damage the opposing tire.

IMHO the jack points recommended by Keystone are likely dictated by their legal dept and not engineering. I can't imagine jacking up a trailer by the frame on the side of the road nor carrying sufficient data cribbing to do it safely.

As bending the axle, again my opinion and experience it just ain't gonna happen. The trailer is in a static condition. Tight turns, running over cubes, hitting deep potholes at speed are all dynamic loads that can induce stresses and stress angles many times the static load. I'll close with this comment. I don't know how long it takes you to change a flat tire but for an old beat up man like me it's a matter of a few min.

The few times I've had a roadside flat my methodology is to stop, apply hazard lights, remove the Trailer Aid from the storage compartment and place infroont or behind the good tire. I remove the spare and set it near the flat tire. I keep a 20v Dewalt impact gun and wheel socket set with it so I attach the correct size socket and set that on the spare tire. THEN drive up on the ramp lifting the adjacent wheel off the ground. Using the impact gun the removal and replacement takes under a min. Drive off the ramp and put everything away and down the road we go.

I have never incurred any damage doing this and am confident that I won't cause harm doing this. As previously stated, I don't use the ramp for supporting the trailer while doing maintenance or repairs like brakes, bearings, etc. I will use the ramp initially then use a bottle jack under the end of the axle to transfer that weight to the ground for the extended time that it's in the air.

These are my experiences and opinions, YMMV.

Agree 100%.
I think a lot of these “rules” are designed to shift responsibility from the manufacturer to the owner.
I also believe 90% of the owners have enough common sense to figure out what tires to use and how to change a flat. If you can’t do that maybe take up checkers.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by gearhead

Agree 100%.
I think a lot of these “rules” are designed to shift responsibility from the manufacturer to the owner.
I also believe 90% of the owners have enough common sense to figure out what tires to use and how to change a flat. If you can’t do that maybe take up checkers.

LOL... Yep. IMO, that's the reason there's more "caution stickers" and "danger tags" on a dollar extension cord than there is copper wire inside it.... Legal departments seem to run Owner's Manuals, not the engineers that designed and built the product.....

[CWtheMan]

Maybe you should identify rules you're writing about. The vast majority of all rules go before committee before they are approved. All industry activities that may be affected by the rules are invited to participate in the committees' processes. The public at large are invited to comment and provide their thoughts with point paper presentations. Once a rule is approved it may be mandated to be described in the vehicle's owner's manual. Anyhow, there are rules, regulations and standards. Basically, tire industry rules are developed to assist in determining how a regulation or standard will apply. Almost all of the procedures used by FMVSS are used to establish an industry wide list of safety standards.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by CWtheMan

Maybe you should identify rules you're writing about. The vast majority of all rules go before committee before they are approved. All industry activities that may be affected by the rules are invited to participate in the committees' processes. The public at large are invited to comment and provide their thoughts with point paper presentations. Once a rule is approved it may be mandated to be described in the vehicle's owner's manual. Anyhow, there are rules, regulations and standards. Basically, tire industry rules are developed to assist in determining how a regulation or standard will apply. Almost all of the procedures used by FMVSS are used to establish an industry wide list of safety standards.

CW, Let's be real about all those "committees who meet to give input to government bureaucracies. They "welcome inputs from the public and from the industry" then some bureaucrat behind the screen makes a final decision, the department secretary signs off on it and it becomes a new requirement for the industry... Never mind that it reads "exactly opposite what the majority of public input recommended" it's what we all are "mandated to follow"..... It's more important that the manufacturer's lobbyists get heard. That's why Keystone, Forest River and Jayco can build "travel trailers that are exempt from federal housing standards for mobile homes".... He who has the most influence wins the invisible bureaucracy's attention.....

Not to be "overly simplistic" but owner's manuals for 1950 automobiles had a maintenance section that included steps to adjust the valves and timing. Current owner's manuals have a warning "Do not drink the windshield washer fluid"....

That's enough for me to discount the Washington bureaucracy as far from competent. YMMV

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

CW, Let's be real about all those "committees who meet to give input to government bureaucracies. They "welcome inputs from the public and from the industry" then some bureaucrat behind the screen makes a final decision, the department secretary signs off on it and it becomes a new requirement for the industry... Never mind that it reads "exactly opposite what the majority of public input recommended" it's what we all are "mandated to follow"..... It's more important that the manufacturer's lobbyists get heard. That's why Keystone, Forest River and Jayco can build "travel trailers that are exempt from federal housing standards for mobile homes".... He who has the most influence wins the invisible bureaucracy's attention.....

Not to be "overly simplistic" but owner's manuals for 1950 automobiles had a maintenance section that included steps to adjust the valves and timing. Current owner's manuals have a warning "Do not drink the windshield washer fluid"....

That's enough for me to discount the Washington bureaucracy as far from competent. YMMV

Harsh words regarding our entrenched govt folks. They don't have time for these things anymore as they have moved on to UFOs and more important issues.

[CWtheMan]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Harsh words regarding our entrenched govt folks. They don't have time for these things anymore as they have moved on to UFOs and more important issues.

And the never-ending weather reports.

[CWtheMan]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

CW, Let's be real about all those "committees who meet to give input to government bureaucracies. They "welcome inputs from the public and from the industry" then some bureaucrat behind the screen makes a final decision, the department secretary signs off on it and it becomes a new requirement for the industry... Never mind that it reads "exactly opposite what the majority of public input recommended" it's what we all are "mandated to follow"..... It's more important that the manufacturer's lobbyists get heard. That's why Keystone, Forest River and Jayco can build "travel trailers that are exempt from federal housing standards for mobile homes".... He who has the most influence wins the invisible bureaucracy's attention.....

Not to be "overly simplistic" but owner's manuals for 1950 automobiles had a maintenance section that included steps to adjust the valves and timing. Current owner's manuals have a warning "Do not drink the windshield washer fluid"....

That's enough for me to discount the Washington bureaucracy as far from competent. YMMV

Have you ever read a final ruling document?

https://www.federalregister.gov/docu...rying-capacity

[rcashdollar]

I find a “cheater bar” (2’ of 3/4” or 1” black pipe) invaluable. Nothing worse than trying to take off a nut/lug, etc. that won’t budge.
I also had a blowout a couple of years ago. Those steel belts really can cause some damage. Got rid of the fairly new Hartlands “China Bombs” and replaced all (4) with Goodyear Endurance. Also bought tire monitors for all (4) camper tires.

[Mike71954]

What pressure were you running the tires? My D rated tires recommend 65psi.

[CWtheMan]

Originally Posted by Mike71954

What pressure were you running the tires? My D rated tires recommend 65psi.

The PSI rating on a tire is not a recommendation, it's the amount of PSI required to gain the maximum load capacity of the tire.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by rcashdollar

I find a “cheater bar” (2’ of 3/4” or 1” black pipe) invaluable. Nothing worse than trying to take off a nut/lug, etc. that won’t budge.
I also had a blowout a couple of years ago. Those steel belts really can cause some damage. Got rid of the fairly new Hartlands “China Bombs” and replaced all (4) with Goodyear Endurance. Also bought tire monitors for all (4) camper tires.

We have a travel trailer with a Reese Dual Cam Straight Line wdh. It has the old flip up chain brackets and that pipe for the brackets fits over my 24" long 1/2" drive breaker bar. My Dewalt 20 V 1/2" drive impact gun is my "first go to" but if it's in a tight spot the breaker bar works well.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by FlyingAroundRV

My 2¢ worth about things like TrailerAid;
Using a ramp device to raise one wheel off the ground risks bending an axle. The axles on RV are already marginal in their weight capacity. Raising one wheel off the ground with no support under it, put the weight that it would normally carry, on the other wheel on that side.
As an example, my trailers max weight is specified as #7600 but my axles are rated at #3500 each. Apparently, the thinking by the manufacturers is that 10-15% of the gross weight is carried by the TV. But if you share the weight that 4 wheels should carry, over only 3 wheels … well, I'll let you do the math.
The alternative of using a jack under the axle means that that axle is still carrying its share of the load.
I already bent one axle on my trailer simply by making a sharp turn out of a parking lot where there was a bit of a step up. I wouldn't tempt the fates and the numbers by putting the load intended for four wheels on only three.

By your way of thinking then jacking it up from the frame raising that single tire off the ground would bend the axle aslo as well as twist the flimsy frame.

As for tires I've used the Carlisles on a couple rvs/utility trailers with very good service.
And like George I've priced the GY Endurance, in my opinion "made in America" didn't make them twice as good a tire, from my experience, as the Carlisles to justify twice the price.

[Wawhoss]

I’ve always carried a 25” x 1/2” breaker bar from Harbor Freight for those lug nuts that the tire guy over torqued. Cheap $17 to $20 and a 2 ft cheater pipe and maybe you wont be stuck on the shoulder of I-70.

Wawhoss