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Old 05-05-2017, 07:02 AM   #1
NorskeBob
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Smile Finished sewer hose mod

Thanks to the many postings on this type of mod. With the new "4 prong" sewer hose connection a sewer hose will no longer fit in the rear bumper. So I sought out advice on the forum and found some great plans. Special thanks goes out to Srvnt and 440justin for the pictures and parts list - they were a great help!
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Old 05-05-2017, 07:14 AM   #2
PARAPTOR
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Yeap, that's it , 8 foot container holds my 15' and 10' sewer hose. Savings for you is now you will not be repairing a rusted out bumper.

Looks Good
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Old 05-05-2017, 07:43 AM   #3
NorskeBob
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Originally Posted by PARAPTOR View Post
Yeap, that's it , 8 foot container holds my 15' and 10' sewer hose. Savings for you is now you will not be repairing a rusted out bumper.

Looks Good
Did end up cutting off 16" of the 5"x5" X 8' Vinyl Blank Post so it would fit. Drilled 4 holes in the bottom for drainage.
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Old 05-28-2017, 07:11 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorskeBob View Post
Thanks to the many postings on this type of mod. With the new "4 prong" sewer hose connection a sewer hose will no longer fit in the rear bumper. So I sought out advice on the forum and found some great plans. Special thanks goes out to Srvnt and 440justin for the pictures and parts list - they were a great help!
What a great idea! Thanks
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Old 05-28-2017, 02:13 PM   #5
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Looks good 😁 !

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
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Old 10-23-2017, 01:31 PM   #6
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I used some PVC gutter as a "drawer" inside the 5x5 PVC fence post material. It fits in the post like it was made for it. We cut up some scrap 3/4" thick PVC boards to use as ends and dividers and then fastened them into the gutter with some flat head stainless steel screws. The gray handles on the end are electrician's conduit clamps.
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The end caps are standard PVC 5x5 fence post caps drilled through and held in place with a long aluminum nail cut to length and the end rounded off with a file.
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Old 10-29-2017, 07:41 PM   #7
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My belly is sealed up how do you mount this thing?
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Old 10-30-2017, 12:44 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Sallen80 View Post
My belly is sealed up how do you mount this thing?
There are multiple ways to secure it to the frame below the coroplast. This is one way I did in order to clear LPG lines on the frame rail. Think angle iron and perforated metal strips.
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Old 10-30-2017, 02:11 AM   #9
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Looks like a great setup. As for Sallen80s question, most RV frames still show the outer flange of the I-beam on each side so drilling a couple 5/16" holes into that flange to mount or hang something underneath won't hurt a thing.
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Old 10-30-2017, 04:12 AM   #10
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Thank you both.
Going to tackle this next year
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Old 10-30-2017, 04:59 AM   #11
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I did not drill holes, used these https://www.homedepot.com/p/2-in-Bea...2-10/100180851 and some red locktight.
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Old 10-30-2017, 05:18 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sallen80 View Post
My belly is sealed up how do you mount this thing?
Mine is fastened to the 4x4 steel bumper with some straps and u-bolts. But I have the slide-out tray. I store 4x4 cribbing in the steel bumper and wanted to keep all this stuff in one place.

There are plenty of ways to fasten things like this to the trailer. As pointed out, the bottom of the steel frame rails is easily accessible for running in self tapping bolts or screws without disturbing the coroplast. You should be able to see the row of bolts holding up the coroplast and propane line on each side of the trailer. That defines the left and right main frame rails. Draw a line, drill a hole.

EVERYTHING needed to do this mod (and many others) is readily available at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.
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Old 10-30-2017, 03:01 PM   #13
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Beam clamps with loctite and all-thread worked for me!
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Old 10-31-2017, 02:18 AM   #14
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Beam clamps with loctite and all-thread worked for me!
Seen another post showing beam clamps...personally I wouldn't use those on an RV because we used them in the construction industry and they can and will spread and become loose. Loctite will keep the bolt from backing out but it won't prevent the clamp from spreading. For something that doesn't move they'd be okay but not on something moving and possibly working back and forth. I still would recommend drilling holes and mounting the pipe that way.
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Old 10-31-2017, 03:52 AM   #15
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Along the same lines as Tinner, bear in mind that beam clamps have very coarse threads with a considerable amount of slack. Locktite is not going to work all that reliably in a vibrating moving vehicle.
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Old 10-31-2017, 01:40 PM   #16
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I used the cast clamps not the aluminum ones! I have had good luck with these type clamps for many years in lots of applications including moving-vibrating equipment and in large piping systems......Just my own experience!
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Old 10-31-2017, 02:20 PM   #17
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These are the ones I like
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Old 01-05-2018, 03:24 PM   #18
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Is this in response to the stupid too short sewer hose storage that my 2018 came equipped with?
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Old 04-09-2018, 09:22 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by SteveC7010 View Post
I used some PVC gutter as a "drawer" inside the 5x5 PVC fence post material. It fits in the post like it was made for it. We cut up some scrap 3/4" thick PVC boards to use as ends and dividers and then fastened them into the gutter with some flat head stainless steel screws. The gray handles on the end are electrician's conduit clamps.
Attachment 14409
Attachment 14410
The end caps are standard PVC 5x5 fence post caps drilled through and held in place with a long aluminum nail cut to length and the end rounded off with a file.
I'm going to build the sewer hose carrier for our "new to us" Bullet Premier. However, I was already using the PVC gutter as a sewer support at campgrounds to prevent premature hose failure. I took an 8' section, cut it in half, and adjust it to length using small 1" C-clamps. I use leveling blocks to get proper slope to the sewer connection.
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Old 04-09-2018, 10:03 AM   #20
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I have not had any issues with using beam clamps, in the 4 years and 15,000 miles ( for what that is worth). I do however check that it is still holding tight before every trip while doing my pre trip walk around of the truck and trailer before I leave the storage lot/campground.
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