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Old 09-09-2019, 05:32 PM   #11
chuckster57
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Make sure the cylinders are full. Then just replace the regulator.
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Old 09-09-2019, 05:43 PM   #12
JRTJH
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A regulator and two pigtails will set you back about $60. If you can find a regulator that fits your existing pigtails, just replace the regulator, otherwise, replace the set of three (regulator and two pigtails)... Easy to install and, IMHO, cheaper than DW's wrath from another cold shower....

I'll volunteer to spend your money and suggest: GO FOR IT !!!!!
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Old 09-10-2019, 04:46 AM   #13
Agdodge4x4
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Also, I shut the gas off last night but didn’t use any appliances. The red flag is showing now on the regulator. Does this indicate a gas leak somewhere?
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Old 09-10-2019, 05:26 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agdodge4x4 View Post
Also, I shut the gas off last night but didnt use any appliances. The red flag is showing now on the regulator. Does this indicate a gas leak somewhere?
Was the indicator green when you last checked? If so, then yes, there's a "leak somewhere". It could be the bleed port on the regulator or a leak in a line downstream from the regulator.

You said you didn't use any appliances, but if the refrigerator was on, even in the electric mode, if the incoming electrical power "flickered", the refrigerator would have switched to gas mode, it could have called for an ignition cycle which would have used propane and dropped the line pressure. Same with the water heater. One thing to check, if you have a propane quick connect for a grill, is the valve behind the quick connect closed? The valves often leak and every "OEM" quick connect has had a valve directly behind it to ensure no leaks. As for "owner mods" to add a quick connect fitting, all bets are off, some install the valve, some don't, some ask, "why a valve, it automatically shuts off when you disconnect from the fitting"....
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Old 09-10-2019, 05:46 AM   #15
Agdodge4x4
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Well indicator was black 12 hours ago. Fridge was on
All night but not sure it flickered at all. I thought I read that a leak down over 5-10 mins is a problem but over hours is not.
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Old 09-10-2019, 06:10 AM   #16
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I'm not sure where you read that... A gas leak is a gas leak. Admittedly, if it holds pressure for 5-10 minutes, it "should be good" but what if it doesn't hold pressure for 11 minutes?? In other words, where do you draw the line?

I've always been taught to use a manometer to pressure test the LPG system and to leave the manometer hooked up for at least 15 minutes. Most "patient and thorough" technicians will wait at least 30 minutes before declaring the system "leak free" and I know several that insist on leaving the manometer hooked up for at least an hour, some even test it "overnight"...

Waiting 5-10 minutes is, IMHO, not long enough.
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Old 09-10-2019, 06:18 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agdodge4x4 View Post
...Not a fan of the mini explosions it makes out the back. When trying to light. ...
I'm not clear if the other appliances are working/sputtering for you now, but it appears you are currently hearing "popping" noises from the water heater as it tries to start. I had this issue when an insect (maybe a spider) built a rather tight web in the burner tube. It actually caused a backflash which took out the thermal resistor (a safety device to protect the circuit board). Cleaning the burner tube fixed that issue. Now when I start the WH on gas I usually drop the outside cover until the flame starts and watch it (from a distance) as the ignition triggers to ensure I don't have the insect issue - no backflash, no problem.
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Old 09-10-2019, 01:22 PM   #18
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I have gas smell under the cover of the tanks. Probably leaking there at the regulator. Should there be any odor there at all ?
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Old 09-10-2019, 07:06 PM   #19
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The "gas smell" comes from an additive to the propane. It's called mercaptin, an oily substance that smells a bit like garlic, actually, it smells like what we "consider propane to smell like". Since it's an oil based substance, it can collect on surfaces and cause them to smell like propane, even when none is present.

So, in a confined space like under the plastic propane cover, you may have some mercaptin that has soiled the plastic and is transmitting the smell. I have a distinct smell of propane in my propane compartment. Whether it's mercaptin on the regulator, on the fittings, on the tank valves or even sprayed on the door to the compartment ??? I don't know what's causing my "propane smell" but I don't have any leaks, my last manometer test of 90 minutes had no reduction of pressure, so the smell isn't from a leak.

Short answer: Having a smell of propane in a confined space doesn't mean there's an active leak. But don't ignore the smell since it may mean an active leak.
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Old 09-10-2019, 07:55 PM   #20
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I have gas smell under the cover of the tanks. Probably leaking there at the regulator. Should there be any odor there at all ?
John is right. I have a smell of LP under the cowl when I open it to access the tanks. I have checked it and had it checked. I have no leaks but the "whis" of a smell of propane is there. Just make sure your system is tight.
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