Does anyone know if wear bar under slide can be replaced without removing slide?

timjwhite · 06-13-2017, 02:25 PM

Keystone Passport 2016 Ultra Lite 2920bh: Not under warranty
After popping and shaking of accu-slide, I have been informed by the company that I will need to replace the gearbox on the accu-slide. In addition, the dealership now says that the wear bar is pinched on the left side of the slide (when slide is closed in camper). They believe the wear bar is "crushed" on the left side and needs to be replaced. They also suggested that I could use plastic rollers instead of a cheaply made wear bar. Price: 129.00/hr with 5-12 hours of work. plus cost of wear bar. Question: Is there anyway to inspect the wear bar before taking it to the dealership and letting them have their way?

**sourdough** · 06-13-2017, 02:55 PM

The wear bar is about 5-6" inside the bottom edge under the slide. You can pull the slide out, pull down the seal and look at it with a flashlight. If you have room you can pull the slide in and look at it from the inside as well. On the inside you can only see a small portion at the end.

Make SURE the wear bar is crushed. My dealer told me that the only solution for mine was to pull the slides and replace the wear bars because they were causing the jerking and catching. I had them order a Teflon like material and install it on the bottom of the slides after I found that using Zep 45 stopped all the jerking and catching - it wasn't the wear bar. Now I don't have any issues. Also, make sure they can actually install rollers on your slide. Norco Accu-slide can probably guide you on that.

**chuckster57** · 06-13-2017, 03:50 PM

Most slides, if you put it out about 1/2 way, you can put a jack underneath and raise the slide for a better view.

Make darn sure you use a long 2X4 to spread the load and only lift about 2-3 inches. Lift one side at a time, not the whole slide.

Dave W · 11-16-2018, 07:08 AM

Resurrecting an oldie!!

Main slide, 149" long is tilting in the opening and appears to be dragging on one end bottom with the bottom right and top left verticler oom wall edge hitting or amost hitting the vertical framework. While not 100% confirmed, it looks like there are no rollers but only a wear guard.

- Can the slide be jacked up and a new wear guard installed? This collapsed wear guard is a known problem from what little I can dig out of the 'net

- Can I instead install several rollers plus some aluminum wear protectors as I did on a previous SOB 5er?

These are the rollers I've considered:
http://www.rvlocksandmore.com/core/m...e08026c4141b20

There are other types at that site as well http://www.rvlocksandmore.com/Outsid...de-Out-Rollers

nied · 11-16-2018, 08:21 AM

Take a look at the youtube video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgGEWmeojN0

Dave W · 11-16-2018, 08:48 AM

[QUOTE=nied;315710]Take a look at the youtube video /QUOTE]

That's exactly what I was looking for. Looks like I didn't put the right search terms in the You Tube site as I looked there as well as other places.

Thanks

Dave W · 11-17-2018, 05:42 AM

Just ordered 10 Lippert 276288 J-36 Service Roller from RVUgrades - unfortunately, probably can't install for a few months if that early dump of white stuff yesterday is an indicator of the winter. If they don't work -oh well they'll join a bunch of other 'things' tried and failed.

Gotta say that the BAL wear bar is a crappy (CHEAP!) design for a high 5 figure 5er

Ourtyme · 05-08-2019, 04:33 PM

All Hello!
I do realize that this post is a few months old, but I am in a similar predicament.
The rolling cabin is a 2017 Keystone Bullet 272BHS with a 12' slide box with side-by-side couch and dinning table.
A few weeks ago, I uncovered it and extended the slide and as described in numerous posts above, it chattered quite aggressively.
I did read other posts an noticed that the jam nuts on the cable stays were not tight, so I removed the trim, tightened the jam nuts ... no help!
I then read the sacred instructions from BAL and there was minimal improvement.
I then read that many recommended WD-40 with PTFE and decided to set aside the silicone can and give it a go ... it worked well!
However, as i was applying the lube to the wear bar, I noticed that both ends of the integrated wiper seal were being crushed by the slide and the center was not ... Hmm!
Well, I began to think more critically and realized that as the mid-point of the slide box floor did not have a bulk head, and there are not longitudinal reinforcement, the floor is arching up and the ends are bearing more of the load ... AND since keystone had mounted the wear bar on the carpet instead of the solid floor, the ends of the wear bar have sunk into the carpet and the "Bread-Loaf" shaped wear feature has been crushed ... as were my hopes to a quick fix.
I saw this thread and was encouraged, until i started measuring my existing Wear Bar and the dimensions of the J-36 Roller.
As Dave W. stated above, even if I cutout the carpet below each roller, I still have 0.3" of height being consumed by the J-36 Roller.
I have reached out to the Accuslide Team @ BAL and to Keystone to see if there is a roller solution or an integrated Wear Bar/Roller, but now replies yet.
I did purchase the extended warranty, but after some very minor repairs at the dealership, which required me improvising and modifying drywall anchors in a Walmart parking lot, I am not at all looking forward to approaching them.
I do apologize for the lengthy post, but if any of you have read a success story with either another style roller or even an upgraded wear bar, I would greatly appreciate any input!
Thank You!

Ourtyme · 05-08-2019, 04:38 PM

Dave W.,

Hello Again!
I forgot to ask in my "novel" above, but the rollers that you had returned, was the nylon very hard like nylon caster wheels?
Do you think that I could remove the nylon roll and turn the OD down in a lathe to recover some height?

All the Best!

MustBeNice · 05-09-2019, 04:32 AM

Has anyone seen this video of roller install....

We experienced some slide chattering at the end of last season and I'm thinking this is the solution I may try if it persists after lubricating things this spring with Silicon w/ Teflon (PTFE).

Roller Link per video: https://store.lci1.com/j-36-service-roller

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgGEWmeojN0

**sourdough** · 05-09-2019, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MustBeNice

Has anyone seen this video of roller install....

We experienced some slide chattering at the end of last season and I'm thinking this is the solution I may try if it persists after lubricating things this spring with Silicon w/ Teflon (PTFE).

Roller Link per video: https://store.lci1.com/j-36-service-roller

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgGEWmeojN0

That is the video from post #5 and what DaveW tried to do I believe and the rollers didn't work. You might read back thru the thread to see how it went.

MustBeNice · 05-09-2019, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sourdough

That is the video from post #5 and what DaveW tried to do I believe and the rollers didn't work. You might read back thru the thread to see how it went.

I had read through the entire thread, but must have missed the video.... my apologies.

I did recall reading that he didn't care for the added height, but don't remember reading if it actually & physically worked or not for those that simply wanted a "roller'ed" solution. I'll go back and read it more thoroughly.

Sure would be nice to see a recall on this p@ss pore design!

Hblick48 · 05-09-2019, 02:06 PM

The darco on both ends of my kitchen slide was fraying and tearing on one side Also, slideout was getting "hung up" on the torn side when extending.

Jacked up end of slide and found screw holding slide bar had worked it's way out tearing darco.

I found 1/8 x 1 UMHW adhesive tape:
https://www.eplastics.com/accessorie...60X-1-000X25FT

Applied it to both ends of slide, works great.

CampNBrew2 · 05-10-2019, 07:41 AM

Thanks Folks,
I'm surprised that no thin rollers are available to replace these wear bars. Darco sliding on plastic is a ridiculous design. I was shocked to learn this was how my slide worked. There are many industries using thin rollers. Just need to find one that fits. If I ever do I'll share the info.

Hblick48 · 05-10-2019, 08:24 AM

In my rig, the "wear bar" is made with UMHW, which is very strong, smooth, slick, and slippery. It really does not "wear". The darco is also slippery, so the two sliding on each other provides a pretty slick surface. Problem is the darco will eventually fray causing slide issues. UMHW sliding on UMHW is very slick and provides little resistance.

Although I'm not a plastic engineer, my guess is that UMHW sliding on UMHW would provide less resistance than rollers on darco.

CampNBrew2 · 05-10-2019, 09:49 AM

Great point. I guess it makes sense that the wear bar should be UHMW Poly. I'll have to look at mine again, it did not appear to be UHMW at first look. I guess the UHMW tape with a few countersunk screws is really the easiest repair.

Steveo57 · 05-10-2019, 12:34 PM

I ended up doing this mod to my 2018 Cougar 22RBS. Found these 4' deck drain brackets at Lowes and took a 2" flat aluminum piece to trim it up better. The original trim strip is not wide enough and wasn't even screwed into anything except the thin sidewall of the slide, they missed the wall frame with 95% of the screws. After it all settled in good I covered it with a strip of eternabond.

So far it's working fine.

GBR · 05-16-2019, 12:21 PM

Not sure this is of any use for you but this is an excellent video of adding rollers the easy way. As long as you have the room above you slide, you can add the rollers with a little effort and minimal cost.
https://youtu.be/HgGEWmeojN0

Good luck;

Racebug · 05-31-2019, 08:22 AM

added 3 rollers to my kitchen slide and my big couch slide. Had to make mounting tabs and weld them to bracket to reach good metal to screw them to. My floor has a little step where the original holes were at. Was able to move the existing seal up about a 1/4" to reseal and used the seal off the removed piece to seal over rollers. second slide took about 20-25 minutes to do.

DMK · 05-29-2020, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Racebug

added 3 rollers to my kitchen slide and my big couch slide. Had to make mounting tabs and weld them to bracket to reach good metal to screw them to. My floor has a little step where the original holes were at. Was able to move the existing seal up about a 1/4" to reseal and used the seal off the removed piece to seal over rollers. second slide took about 20-25 minutes to do.

Just wondering if we could get an update on this repair? How it's working after some time and if you had any difficulties with either the height of the slide or a bigger gap under the slide between the floor and slide? Did you really need to extend the bracket? Trying to decide if I want to get another wear bar or add these rollers... I currently have my slide room out replacing the floor and going from the 5/8" they had to 3/4" so I'm already going to be taller.
TIA

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