Lighting Issues - Probably User Error?

Orlly714 · 12-04-2023, 01:46 PM

Hello Everyone,

First time poster and first time RVer! I recently purchased a 2012 Keystone Outback 230RS. When I was viewing it from the buyer he had it plugged into a 30AMP shore power connection and all the interior lights on the ceiling functioned fine.

We took it out on Saturday for the first time at a campground - plugged it in to the 30AMP shore power with a surge protector and everything functioned minus the living space ceiling lights. I made sure there was no tripped breakers or blown fuses, removed the surge protector to make sure it wasn't faulty - even though all the lights were correct, I then even took one of the functioning ceiling light bulbs from the toy hauler area and tried it in one of the living area fixtures as well. I am hoping its noobie user error since it worked fine when viewing it but just wanted to see if I am missing something!

Thanks!

**chuckster57** · 12-04-2023, 01:54 PM

Welcome to the forum

There may be a wall switch and a switch at the light.

dutchmensport · 12-04-2023, 02:09 PM

Check in the breaker box (the converter panel). There is a row of automotive fuses. It's possible one of them is loose, not tight. Simply push them all and make sure they have good connections. I had a similar problem a few months ago. The main kitchen lights kept dimming down and eventually when out. Everything else was fine. When I pulled the automotive fuses, I was able to disable zone 1, zone 2, etc. The first one I pulled was the kitchen. I put the fuse back in place and the lights came on nice and bright again, and I've never had an issues again.

So, check those fuses. Pull them one at a time if you don't know which one is affecting the lights that are out.

wiredgeorge · 12-04-2023, 02:18 PM

First thing, howdy! Next, the "surge protector". These things are next to useless in preventing damage to your coach's electrical systems. You need an ELECSTRICAL MANAGEMENT SYSTEM. This is the one I use:
Progressive Industries EMS-PT30X 30 Amp EMS with Surge Protection

Your ceiling lights that are not working are 12V DC. There may be a 2nd switch such as on a wall and the lights themselves will have switches. Could be the issue.

When checking fuses, use a multimeter to check continuity by placing the meter in the lowest Ohms range and putting the probes each on one of the two prongs that are usually plugged in (fuse must be removed). It is sometimes nearly impossible to check by just looking.

Last, the battery must be charged for the lights to work. You will need some tips on checking the battery and output of your converter (117V AC to 12V DC); If you have an older trailer, the battery may be toast or the converter the problem as it is what sends 12V DC to the fuses (and battery to keep it charged).

Orlly714 · 12-04-2023, 02:43 PM

Thank you for help everyone! It was definitely a newbie error as I found the switch panel for it and bam they worked. Thank you all for the input and the welcome! I can't wait to read up on all the posts and learn a thing or two.

Orlly714 · 12-04-2023, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

First thing, howdy! Next, the "surge protector". These things are next to useless in preventing damage to your coach's electrical systems. You need an ELECSTRICAL MANAGEMENT SYSTEM. This is the one I use:
Progressive Industries EMS-PT30X 30 Amp EMS with Surge Protection

Your ceiling lights that are not working are 12V DC. There may be a 2nd switch such as on a wall and the lights themselves will have switches. Could be the issue.

When checking fuses, use a multimeter to check continuity by placing the meter in the lowest Ohms range and putting the probes each on one of the two prongs that are usually plugged in (fuse must be removed). It is sometimes nearly impossible to check by just looking.

Last, the battery must be charged for the lights to work. You will need some tips on checking the battery and output of your converter (117V AC to 12V DC); If you have an older trailer, the battery may be toast or the converter the problem as it is what sends 12V DC to the fuses (and battery to keep it charged).

Thank you for the input! I am going to look into the EMS now - that was on my list of things to purchase. The RV included the surge protector so I assumed it would be better than nothing but have seen nothing but mixed reviews on them vs the EMS having nothing but good reviews from what Ive seen.

dutchmensport · 12-04-2023, 03:06 PM

Just another note... If you have a battery kill switch (a big red key) often in the outside convenience center or inside the pass-through front bay, the switch could be in the "off" position. If the key can be removed, the battery is "off". If the battery cannot be removed, it's "on". If you do not have a red key cut off switch, then you will have an in-line fuse, usually right at the battery (like most travel trailers) with batteries on the A-frame tongue.

Now, even if the battery disconnect switch is "off", and plugged into shore power, house lights and everything will still continue to work because they are being powered by the AC electricity that is passing through the converter (the fuse box / breaker box / automotive fuse box) and still powering everything. Unplug from shore power and everything will go dark. If you still have house lights when unplugged from shore power, then your kill switch is in the "on" position.

Everything should work with the battery kill switch in "off" position when plugged into shore power, via the converter (not the battery). However, sometimes slides and electric jacks and awnings will not work on the converter alone. They require the battery for the extra "umph". And, if the red key kill switch is off, even if plugged into shore power, the battery will not charge. It's disconnected from the "converter". There may be other wires connected to your battery. Those will not be off... namely ... your CO2 detector is never off unless you disconnect the battery at the battery terminals.

It's just an FYI and the first thing you should try when having issues with your DC electricity. The second is, check that battery kill switch, the third is check those automotive fuses. If still having issues, then something deeper is going on.

wiredgeorge · 12-04-2023, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Orlly714

Thank you for help everyone! It was definitely a newbie error as I found the switch panel for it and bam they worked. Thank you all for the input and the welcome! I can't wait to read up on all the posts and learn a thing or two.

I have a 5th wheel and can not reach two of the four cabin switches. That is why we have a switch on the wall next to the outside orange light above the steps and the two outside lights used to annoy anyone parked near us if left on at night. We use those lights when the missus walks the pooches at night and shut them off otherwise. I bought a label maker and the missus fashioned small labels for all the lights to make it easier to turn on/off what we wish.

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