HELP Furrion Stove Knob Lights On All The Time

[DarrenP]

Hi all. After 3 months of full time RVing the blue lights behind the stove (not oven) knobs are on all the time. Not as bright as when they are switched on but still on. The knob lights dim even more and stay that way when the air conditioning is on. When I turn the knob lights on my converter fan immediately turns on. If I turn them off the fan turns off. The converter fan doesn't immediately come on when I turn any other 12v lights or 120V circuits. Also the air conditioning doesn't cause any other lights to dim, only the knob lights when they are off. If the knob lights are on, they do not dim when the AC comes on. I should add the stove and oven work as they should. Any ideas what might be causing this? I'm worried it could lead to bigger, more expensive problems. It's in a 2022 Passport 2400RBWE. Thanks

[JRTJH]

It sounds like there's a short somewhere on the 12 volt wire from that switch to the actual lights on the knobs. I'd pull the top of the cooktop off and check all the wiring from the back of the switch all the way to the last knob connector.

There's lots of heat that could melt insulation and lots of sharp metal edges under the cooktop, any of which could damage the insulation on the wire causing it to short out or "melt together"...

There may still be some "warranty from Furrion" on the stove, but trying to find a service center that can get you in for a check might be an "impossible task"...

A good visual might reveal something you can fix yourself....

[bobbecky]

I was reading a Furrion manual, and I noticed on the one it shows a light control button all the way to the right of the burner knobs that turns the lights on and off.

[DarrenP]

Bob & Becky,
Thanks. When I have that switch in the off position I'm still having the knobs light up dimly. They light up as usual with the switch either up or down (on positions).

[sourdough]

Maybe there's some sort of short/cross between the 12v for the stove lights and the A/C control lead?? Are the fuses for the two next to each other in the control panel?

You say all the lights come on whether the switch is up or down - that would be wrong. One direction (up if I recall) turns on the knob lights, down turns on the knob lights plus the oven; what is yours doing? Here's a link to the manual;

https://manuals.plus/furrion/2-in-1-range-oven-manual

Did not have page numbers but about 3/4 down you will find a section called light control that explains that. Quite a ways back up in the installation section it shows the wiring diagram. You have a 12vdc +/- feeding it. Sounds like something from the A/C is backfeeding into that power line?

[DarrenP]

Sourdough, I think you're on to something. I haven't taken a look at your link yet but I do know the AC circuit fuse and stove circuit fuse are next to each other on the circuit board. I'm also having troubles with my AC. After the AC has been running for a few hours it stops blowing cold air. I looked through the vent on the AC unit and the soft start that is installed has a red LED on the run leg. This is usually green. I turn off the AC at the thermostat and then the breaker on the panel, wait and couple minutes and turn it back on and it works fine again. Also I pulled the spade connections off the knob light switch to check the switch and the knob lights are still on dimly. I don't know where they are getting the voltage from.
My lights work as you say. Switch up all knob lights come on, switch down all knob lights come on plus the oven light. Thanks

[sourdough]

I would pull the cover off the control panel and look at the wiring on those fuses. Maybe one is loose and turned a bit to touch another or a loose piece of wire just fell across them??

Edit: the trailer is not set up in such a way that there's the possibility of a staple or something punched through the 2 wires in a wall or ? and it finally wore through the insulation is it?

[sourdough]

I thought of this yesterday after I made the above post but forgot to post it;

https://manuals.plus/wp-content/uplo...=ng:webp/ngcb1

The correlation between the A/C and the stove might not be a shorted wire. In the diagram above (link) you see the only way for battery to get to those LEDs is through that switch or to be introduced behind it - which there isn't a source. The switch could be bad (or something loose/shorted in/on it) and the vibration of the A/C unit running might make it turn on the dimmer lights. That would not however explain the converter issue or the anomalies with the A/C. Just something to think about.

[DarrenP]

Sourdough, I took a look at the board and fuses and nothing is jumping out as being an obvious problem. I guess I'll call a mobile RV service place. Thanks

[sourdough]

Pull the A/C fuse (12vdc) then try the stove etc. and see if the converter kicks on as soon as you turn on the stove. If that tells you nothing put it back then remove the fuse for the stove. Turn on the A/C and read the outgoing side of the stove fuse and see if you have anything there, you shouldn't (DC volt scale). Trying to see what the interaction is between the A/C, stove lights and converter.

[DarrenP]

Sourdough, I did as you suggested and with the stove fuse removed and the AC on I'm getting .27VDC, when the AC turns off it goes to .69VDC on the outgoing side of the stove fuse spade clip. Based on they are always on (dim) and get a little brighter when the AC turns off I'm thinking we now know it's at this location. What could be causing it though? Thanks for your assistance on this.

[DarrenP]

I disconnected the switch entirely and the problem is still there. I suspect it's getting back fed from someplace.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by DarrenP

Sourdough, I took a look at the board and fuses and nothing is jumping out as being an obvious problem. I guess I'll call a mobile RV service place. Thanks

Originally Posted by DarrenP

I disconnected the switch entirely and the problem is still there. I suspect it's getting back fed from someplace.

Unless the mobile tech is WELL VERSED in appliance electronics, I would save my money. I would be looking at the igniter circuit.

[DarrenP]

Sounds like it is going to be tough to get this fixed. I cancelled the mobile tech.

[bobbecky]

After giving this issue some thought, it sounds like that switch that turns the lights on and off is defective and is leaking that small bit of voltage through to the lights in the knobs. I'm thinking replacing the switch would fix the problem.

[DarrenP]

Bob & Becky, thanks for the reply. I've took the switch out and removed all 3 leads and the lights are still on all the time. I'm at a loss on this.

[Kirk's Keystone Outback.]

Originally Posted by DarrenP

Bob & Becky, thanks for the reply. I've took the switch out and removed all 3 leads and the lights are still on all the time. I'm at a loss on this.

I've had LED lights allow very low power through the diode that would make the light glow very dimly when the switch is in the O-F-F position. Actually seen it a couple times.
I have a dome light in my F150 that does that right now, and I always prove it by swapping with another light. I need to order a replacement.
Just a thought...

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by DarrenP

Bob & Becky, thanks for the reply. I've took the switch out and removed all 3 leads and the lights are still on all the time. I'm at a loss on this.

With the switch out of the circuit and all three leads (sticking in the air) a source of battery has to be applied somewhere beyond the switch to make it through the LED circuitry and keep the lights on. Keep in mind battery (+) is always looking for, and has to have, ground to complete it's mission. That said whatever is powering up that positive side to light up those lights has to be completing the circuit to ground...either through the negative lead or another source of ground.

With those leads off the switch read the positive lead going to the lights to ground for 12vdc. You should see battery if the lights are on. If battery is there you know it's not coming from the + source (power panel fuse) in the diagram (is the fuse pulled?). Keep opening the negative lead (-) and see if that doesn't lead you to the source of the battery. First place I would check would be where the negative lead connects to the stove and disconnect it to see if there is something in the stove itself feeding this. I can't imagine what but ?? Sort of like what they told my DD about diagnosing Bell's Palsy - you finally determine that's what you have after you eliminate everything else...sounds like you're in that place.

[GRP]

Originally Posted by DarrenP

Bob & Becky,
Thanks. When I have that switch in the off position I'm still having the knobs light up dimly. They light up as usual with the switch either up or down (on positions).

It sounds like you may have liquid that has gotten inside a switch.



I read more replies and see where you removed the switch and they still are on. I've only used my stove once since I bought my camper last month. If memory serves me, the lights come on when the burner knob is turned. Could be liquid got inside one of those.

[DarrenP]

Hi I wanted to update everyone. I've decided that I'm going to have this done under warranty work which we are still waiting on. I've been in contact with Furrion and they will cover it under warranty. So far it's a slow go but they have confirmed it is warranty. I'm pushing for a mobile tech to come out and I'll pay the tech and get it reimbursed through Furrion. Thanks to everyone that responded and gave me great advice and things to try. I'll update again when we find out exactly what the problem is.