Need to know max trailer size to tow w/Ram Truck

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by jack65

Hey Logan, How about one of these? There all under 6,000 lbs and at least 26'
https://www.keystonerv.com/travel-tr.../bullet/specs/

Jack,

You keep pulling up floorplans/specs for trailers with the same type front FILON wall that you say you don't want to buy. Have you looked at the trailers with a fiberglass front cap? There are several brands available from Keystone and also a number of brands from other manufacturers that have eliminated the front FILON sheeting. While most will have a FILON rear wall, at least the front on that style is molded fiberglass, not FILON.

Here's a photo and floorplan of one such trailer. You can get more info about it here: https://www.keystonerv.com/travel-tr...ravel-trailer/

[Hankster]

The bullet series has a fiberglass front cap at least I know the 2019 models do.

[CSM]

Depending on the trailer weights you may be limited. Below are the weight limits of the truck you mention.

Max payload 1,830LBS (your overall load including the bodies in the cab)
Max towing capacity 11,560LBS (what you can pull)
I hardly believe the tongue weight capability of the truck is 1k. I have a stock 2500 and it is 600lbs.
In any event much depends on the trailer. If you get a small one you may be ok. Again, the trailer will most likely be a steel frame; heavy. I have an ultralight aluminum that allows greater load but the truck still has that max towed and gross load and tongue. It doesn't matter what the hitch or sway bar max says. Its the truck.

[jack65]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Jack,

You keep pulling up floorplans/specs for trailers with the same type front FILON wall that you say you don't want to buy. Have you looked at the trailers with a fiberglass front cap? There are several brands available from Keystone and also a number of brands from other manufacturers that have eliminated the front FILON sheeting. While most will have a FILON rear wall, at least the front on that style is molded fiberglass, not FILON.

Here's a photo and floorplan of one such trailer. You can get more info about it here: https://www.keystonerv.com/travel-tr...ravel-trailer/

I like that one with the fiberglass front cap!

[jack65]

Originally Posted by CSM

Depending on the trailer weights you may be limited. Below are the weight limits of the truck you mention.

Max payload 1,830LBS (your overall load including the bodies in the cab)
Max towing capacity 11,560LBS (what you can pull)
I hardly believe the tongue weight capability of the truck is 1k. I have a stock 2500 and it is 600lbs.
In any event much depends on the trailer. If you get a small one you may be ok. Again, the trailer will most likely be a steel frame; heavy. I have an ultralight aluminum that allows greater load but the truck still has that max towed and gross load and tongue. It doesn't matter what the hitch or sway bar max says. Its the truck.

Here is a pic I just took of my hitch

I looked at this today
http://baydos.mydex.com/AEYsl-Tdp5s:...BoCkVQQAvD_BwE

[sourdough]

Jack, you are looking at the "hitch" rating for sure. The other component I think that was being talked about is the "receiver" rating. It's the component attached to the vehicle that the hitch slides into. The "hitch" rating has nothing to do with the "receiver" rating and could be off by a long shot. You have to pay attention to the receiver rating so you don't have it break off the back of your truck due to being overloaded - no matter what the hitch rating is - 2 very different things.

[jack65]

Originally Posted by sourdough

Jack, you are looking at the "hitch" rating for sure. The other component I think that was being talked about is the "receiver" rating. It's the component attached to the vehicle that the hitch slides into. The "hitch" rating has nothing to do with the "receiver" rating and could be off by a long shot. You have to pay attention to the receiver rating so you don't have it break off the back of your truck due to being overloaded - no matter what the hitch rating is - 2 very different things.

Ah... That is the receiver that's attached to the rear of the truck. Unless I'm missing something?

[tonysr]

Go on here and sign in, then put in your VIN number and it will give you the factory tow ratings for your vehicle as it was built. Also any recalls and tech bulletins. https://www.mopar.com/en-us/my-vehic...d/details.html

[jack65]

Originally Posted by tonysr

Go on here and sign in, then put in your VIN number and it will give you the factory tow ratings for your vehicle as it was built. Also any recalls and tech bulletins. https://www.mopar.com/en-us/my-vehic...d/details.html

Signed up, waited a half hour for password they were suppose to send, nothing?
UPDATE:
Saw this:
Use the email address you provided your dealership to setup your account.
I didn't buy it new and whoever did lived in Canada... so no way this will work.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by jack65

Ah... That is the receiver that's attached to the rear of the truck. Unless I'm missing something?

This is a pic of a receiver (the part attached to the truck that accepts the shank from the hitch)
https://www.homedepot.com/p/CURT-Cla...3013/205630948

Here is a "hitch" shank that goes in the receiver;

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...CABEgJcyPD_BwE

Many times "hitch" is used to describle any/all of it but they are different components. The receiver is bolted/welded etc. to your truck frame generally. How it is attached, how strong it is built determines what class it is (I - V) and how much weight can be put on it thus onto its mounting apparatus.

The "hitch shank" (which then has a "ball" on it) is the "go between" between the attachment into your receiver and the trailer tongue resting on the ball. It has its own weight limitations as well as any weight distribution bars. You have to take all of them into account and match them as best you can.

[jack65]

Here is what I have, pictures, links etc.
CLASS 4 TRAILER HITCH WITH 2" RECEIVER
https://www.curtmfg.com/part/14374

Equal-i-zer 1,000/10,000 4-Point Sway Control Hitch
https://www.dyersonline.com/equal-i-...4aArBYEALw_wcB
(my Equalizer Sway System is in storage until I get my next trailer, so no live pics)

And once again the specs on the Ram Truck
Ram 1500 SLT Quad Cab 4x4
5.7L V8 Hemi MDS VVT 395 HP Engine
8-Spd Auto 8HP70 Transmission
392 Rear gear ratio
Trailer Tow Mirrors and Brake group
Trailer brake control

VIN: 1C6RR7GTOES367523

[jack65]

Originally Posted by jack65

Need expert advice again. We sold our Keystone Outback trailer due to the bad delamination on it. This time we're getting a new trailer and want to know the maximum weight/size we can safely tow with our Ram Truck. Specs on truck is below.

*************************************

Towing truck specs before upgrades/options:
Ram 1500 SLT Quad Cab 4x4
5.7L V8 Hemi MDS VVT 395 HP Engine
6-Spd Auto Transmission
392 Rear gear ratio
VIN: 1C6RR7GTOES367523

From the factory it had 6 speed transmission, 355 gears, no towing package, no receiver, below is the added stuff:

Addons\Options
8-Spd Auto 8HP70 Transmission
392 Rear gear ratio
Trailer Tow Mirrors and Brake group
Trailer brake control
Trailer Receiver: 10K lbs gross weight / 1,000 lbs tongue weight
12,000 lbs weight "Distribution / 1,200 WD Tongue weight
Heavy Duty transmission & engine cooling system
Flowmaster exhaust system, K&N air filter system.

For towing, the door sticker BEFORE options added says:
GVWR/PMBV 6800 lbs
(Towing receiver on my truck says: 1,200 lbs tongue weight?)

I sold my WDH/sway control system with the keystone trailer.

************************************************** ***

Okay I got a much smaller trailer, hopefully don't need a sway bar for it. I know this isn't a Keystone, but the advice is so good here, I don't want to go to another forum. I was trying to find a small Keystone popup trailer, none anywhere near me.... BTW, most smaller trailers, pop ups etc are sold before they even get put on the lot... just like the shotguns, toilet paper with the Covid virus scare. I couldn't find a smaller Keystone trailer locally so I got this one abit used, in new like condition.

2015 Starcraft AR-ONE 14RB Specs:
https://www.rvusa.com/rv-guide/2015-...n-14rb-tr22027
Dry Weight 2,390 lbs.
Payload Capacity 810 lbs.
GVWR3,200 lbs.
Hitch Weight 255 lbs.
Dimensions
Length 16.5 ft. (198 in.)
Width 7.08 ft. (85 in.)
Height 8.42 ft. (101 in.)
Interior Height 6.08 ft. (73 in.)
Wheelbase 11.25 ft. (135 in.)

My Ram truck specs are in quote above:

Question is: This trailer is so easy to tow, it's so light, do I even need a sway bar for it?

NOTE: Reason we waited so long to get another trailer was we sold our house of 14 years in Tacoma as I saw trouble coming to big cities... to get away from the Seattle crap and was in between houses renting an apartment until we found one in the country. Now we're 35 miles SE of Tacoma and 70 from Seattle... Since we've been looking for trailers and not finding any small ones, especially popups.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by jack65

Okay I got a much smaller trailer, hopefully don't need a sway bar for it. I know this isn't a Keystone, but the advice is so good here, I don't want to go to another forum. I was trying to find a small Keystone popup trailer, none anywhere near me.... BTW, most smaller trailers, pop ups etc are sold before they even get put on the lot... just like the shotguns, toilet paper with the Covid virus scare. I couldn't find a smaller Keystone trailer locally so I got this one abit used, in new like condition.

2015 Starcraft AR-ONE 14RB Specs:
https://www.rvusa.com/rv-guide/2015-...n-14rb-tr22027
Dry Weight 2,390 lbs.
Payload Capacity 810 lbs.
GVWR3,200 lbs.
Hitch Weight 255 lbs.
Dimensions
Length 16.5 ft. (198 in.)
Width 7.08 ft. (85 in.)
Height 8.42 ft. (101 in.)
Interior Height 6.08 ft. (73 in.)
Wheelbase 11.25 ft. (135 in.)

My Ram truck specs are in quote above:

Question is: This trailer is so easy to tow, it's so light, do I even need a sway bar for it?

NOTE: Reason we waited so long to get another trailer was we sold our house of 14 years in Tacoma as I saw trouble coming to big cities... to get away from the Seattle crap and was in between houses renting an apartment until we found one in the country. Now we're 35 miles SE of Tacoma and 70 from Seattle... Since we've been looking for trailers and not finding any small ones, especially popups.

IMHO regardless of rv weight or tow vehicle with RVs a WDH with sway is necessary, other type trailers maybe, maybe not.
Also regardless of the entire list of mods/upgrades you've made to your truck legally it's still limited to the numbers posted on your driver's door post. Those mods may ease the towing for the truck, but there's nothing you can do the increase the numbers posted other than a bigger truck. Personally what you've spent on those mods you'd of been better off to upgrade trucks.

[sourdough]

Wow! You downsized a LOT!!! Short answer is no, you don't need a wdh/sway with that combo - just be sure and don't put your foot in that 5.7 and yank the frame out from under that trailer. The low profile of a pop up won't/doesn't catch wind like a full sized trailer and the OAL is only 16' and it won't be as high as your pickup bed. With a full size trailer figure a 13% tongue weight, with a small pop up I'm thinking 10%, maybe less so maybe 300 lbs. on the receiver. You should be good IMO. I used to pull a pop up about that size with a Ford Ranger without wdh or sway and it was good (knew nothing of wdh or sway back then )

BTW, congrats on the trailer. I'm glad you found something that would work. You are more than welcome to hang around to ask questions or share information.

[Hankster]

With that combo, you might want to tape a not to your instrument panel reminding you there's a trailer back there.

[jack65]

Originally Posted by sourdough

Wow! You downsized a LOT!!! Short answer is no, you don't need a wdh/sway with that combo - just be sure and don't put your foot in that 5.7 and yank the frame out from under that trailer. The low profile of a pop up won't/doesn't catch wind like a full sized trailer and the OAL is only 16' and it won't be as high as your pickup bed. With a full size trailer figure a 13% tongue weight, with a small pop up I'm thinking 10%, maybe less so maybe 300 lbs. on the receiver. You should be good IMO. I used to pull a pop up about that size with a Ford Ranger without wdh or sway and it was good (knew nothing of wdh or sway back then )

BTW, congrats on the trailer. I'm glad you found something that would work. You are more than welcome to hang around to ask questions or share information.

Hey sourdough, it's good to see you!
This is not a popup. We couldn't find one around here, new anyways and the good used ones were gone before we could make an offer on them locally via "offer up" and "craigslist". But I found this one at 4am and had the guy hold it till we got there and I'm glad that worked out as it's is perfect for my wife and I and it's like new inside and out.
Here is the day we bought our 2015 Starcraft AR-ONE 14RB trailer @ 2,390 lbs and took it home. Didn't even feel it behind the Ram going up and down a steep windy road going home. Of course I didn't go fast either.
It's in new like condition, used maybe 2-3 times.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by jack65

Hey sourdough, it's good to see you!
This is not a popup. We couldn't find one around here, new anyways and the good used ones were gone before we could make an offer on them locally via "offer up" and "craigslist". But I found this one at 4am and had the guy hold it till we got there and I'm glad that worked out as it's is perfect for my wife and I and it's like new inside and out.
Here is the day we bought our 2015 Starcraft AR-ONE 14RB trailer @ 2,390 lbs and took it home. Didn't even feel it behind the Ram going up and down a steep windy road going home. Of course I didn't go fast either.
It's in new like condition, used maybe 2-3 times.

Whoops! Don't know why but thought you ended up with a pop up...sorry.

That's a good looking rig. I'm sort of 2 minds on your setup. You don't need a wdh. You might, depending on the situation, might find a sway control beneficial. A pop up is one thing, a slab sided, 10' high wall behind a 1/2 ton pickup is another. I say this because I bought a custom bbq trailer one time. After purchase took off to go home 50 miles away - about 5k lbs. As soon as I hit highway speed (70) that thing began jerking me rythmically to the right then bounce back - jerking the tail of my 3/4 truck. Seems the axle had been worked on and it was shorter on one side than the other.

Just an illustration of what a low, flat trailer can do to something like an HD truck. The tall trailer will catch wind; from semis, crosswind, whirlwinds etc. It can put a significant push to your truck. In our country a "dust devil", "whirlwind" can whip the trailer one direction and immediately whip it the other. Long ago that happened to me when I was not equipped or experienced and put me right into a tail wag the dog moment that just got bigger. Got out of it but figured out how to fix it right away.

Maybe an economical wdh with sway that would prevent that from happening might just be some insurance for you.

[JRTJH]

It looks like you've got a Yes and a No so far.

Years ago, we towed a 20' JAYCO JayRaven dual axle trailer for 3 years all over Colorado. We had a "cheap Equalizer round bar WD hitch" and no sway control. We never had any issues, even towing across Kansas on I-70. If you've ever driven I-70 in Kansas, you know all about "the world's strongest crosswinds"... Even then, we didn't need sway control.

You will find that your 14' flat sidewall trailer will not "track the same as your previous trailer in all conditions. Blame that on the single axle this one has under it when compared to the dual axles under your previous trailer. There is a difference in "SOME" (not all) towing environments. You'll master towing this one in short order, but it will handle a bit differently from your previous dual axle trailer.

As for sway control, I'd suggest trying it without any add on sway control devices. My guess is that you won't miss not having it and probably will consider that you don't need it. That said, if you do head to Kansas, spend the money on a "clamp on/bolt on sway control bar"... Your choice of brands, from CURT to Reese to Draw Tite. They all function about the same, so it boils down to what's on the shelf at the dealership you visit.....

[Campermike]

That thing looks brand new! These days Thor owns Jayco/StarCraft so it's kind of a cousin to the keystone. Good luck with it. And although you might not need wdh with sway I might still be tempted to get something basic like the e2 wdh with sway control just to be extra comfortable.

[jack65]

Another question... being that sway bars / Weight-Distributing Hitch is for like passing trucks, wind etc... I'm not going to be on any highways let alone freeways the road all the way up to Takhlakh Lake from my house, (about 150 miles) is all two lanes with the last 50 miles a more narrower windier road, last 8 miles is gravel road. very little traffic on that 8 mile stretch. Will be lucky to see 10 cars. I'll be doing 60 mph the first 100 miles, then 40-50mph the next 40 miles, then 25-30 the last 8 miles. Again, very little traffic on the last 50 miles.

Do I still need a Weight-Distributing Hitch? My trailer specs again:
Dry Weight 2,390 lbs.
Payload Capacity 810 lbs.
GVWR3,200 lbs.
Hitch Weight 255 lbs.
Dimensions
Length 16.5 ft. (198 in.)
Width 7.08 ft. (85 in.)
Height 8.42 ft. (101 in.)
Interior Height 6.08 ft. (73 in.)
Wheelbase 11.25 ft. (135 in.)

If Y'all think I still need one, I'm looking at this one from Harbor Freight:
https://www.harborfreight.com/10000-...tem-67649.html
Then there is this one:
https://www.harborfreight.com/traile...kit-96462.html

Again appreciate all the advice.