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Old 10-14-2018, 11:52 AM   #11
gearhead
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I used perforated angle steel (has slots and holes) across the frame side to side to help with the sagging. You should be able to get it at a good hardware store, or Lowes, Home Depot, etc. I think I used 1.250" X 1.250" angle, maybe 1.5". I connected it into the frame with the same size self drilling self tapping stainless steel screws that the factory used. Got them at Fastenal. If you screw into the same general area the factory used you should be good. I used a 1/4" cordless DeWalt nut driver. Grind the corners off the angle so you won't cut your head open the next time you roll under it. Paint it flat black and git on down the road.
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Old 10-16-2018, 05:16 PM   #12
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Having to open the underneath more than once I found a product called Eterna Bond to be very good at sealing the cuts ant staying in place.
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Old 10-16-2018, 06:03 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by tmason View Post
Having to open the underneath more than once I found a product called Eterna Bond to be very good at sealing the cuts ant staying in place.
I found the new heavy thicker Gorilla tape works good. Much cheaper and can be removed without damaging the coroplast. JMO
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Old 10-17-2018, 07:48 AM   #14
GlennB724
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Last year on my second trip in my new (at the time) Alpine 3401RL, after a day of BOUNCING down the road crossing Nebraska, (iirc Interstate 80???), we pulled into the campground and wife discovered that the underbelly cover had pulled off for about 3/4 of its length, and it was sagging down with half of the fiberglass batting hanging out, (the other half was added to the environment somewhere). After having a mobile repair service guy come out, he re-attached it along the edges and added some wood furring strips across the bottom side to side, (metal angle iron was not available nearby). It held on like that for the rest of the trip until I got home and could put the trailer in for warranty repair. (I have no idea if the missing insulation was replaced.) It's on the long list of "someday I'll have to check on that" items. As mentioned already, it was pulled very tightly across one of the water tanks, and I think the bounce of the weight of the water while driving down the horrible road just ended up tearing the plastic from the screws attaching it.
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Old 02-10-2019, 07:09 AM   #15
Ranger 3/75
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I have a 2019 cougar 33sab and if gets below 25 all my water lines freeze. That's with the furnace on 74 degrees. Last night it got down to 22 and the bathroom was froze again
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Old 02-10-2019, 07:21 AM   #16
Steveo57
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I have a 2019 cougar 33sab and if gets below 25 all my water lines freeze. That's with the furnace on 74 degrees. Last night it got down to 22 and the bathroom was froze again
Have you crawled underneath and checked the coroplast underbelly the make sure it's sealed up tight. I wouldn't expect one night with temps like that to cause any problems especially since you had the heat running.
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Old 02-10-2019, 07:27 AM   #17
chuckster57
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Having to open the underneath more than once I found a product called Eterna Bond to be very good at sealing the cuts ant staying in place.
Eternabond is primarily used on the roof membrane. Gorilla tape is good but the adhesive will fail years before it will using scrim tape. Scrim tape is designed for coroplast.

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Surfa...4FACA1583AEE5B

Picture for description only.
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Old 02-10-2019, 08:29 AM   #18
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Chuckster57- That's a great tip about the Scrim Tape for people like me that's not real savvy on this stuff but can do a lot of this stuff on my own. I thought the eterna bond was a good idea until I saw your suggestion!
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Old 02-10-2019, 09:04 AM   #19
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Every year at the beginning of the winter season we get questions about the "arctic package" and "heated basement problems". Then they seem to be "forgotten" until it gets really cold and people start having frozen pipes. They need to do something to "fix the issue of frozen plumbing" but honestly, mid winter in sub zero temperature is not the time to "FIX" it, rather it's the time to get it working again. Adding heat to the basement, turning up the thermostat inside (to share the heat "down below") and trying to prevent "cold air from blowing under the trailer" are some of the most effective "stop gap" measures.

The time to "FIX" the problem is next spring/summer, when you're not thinking about frozen pipes but the conditions are much nicer for "human intervention"... While it's warm and comfortable is the time to pull the coroplast, move plumbing runs away from the steel frame rails (where they're guaranteed to freeze) and to pull everything out of the closets/cabinets on outer walls inside the trailer and reroute the plumbing so it doesn't "touch the outside wall" by using small bits of rigid foam board between the wall and the pipe. Back under the trailer, if you look at the frame rails that make up the sides of "your heated basement" you'll see that they are not insulated, filled with holes ranging from 1" to 4" in diameter. That's like opening all the windows on your RV and wondering why the furnace can't warm things up inside.... All of those holes can't be closed, some are part of the slide mechanisms and must be open, but there are ways to seal much of the basement that is "for the most part, open to the elements all winter".....

As for frozen pipes in 20F weather, that's more or less a given way of life with today's "arctic package protection". If you can make it through until spring, don't forget about it until next winter. While the weather is nice, spend a couple of days under your trailer, improving next winter's "survivability"....
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