new owner with questions

[piperpilot]

We just purchased a 2009 Everest with absolutely no previous experience in a fifth wheel. I understand the concept of black and gray water tanks..etc. I dumped the black water tank but when I opened the first gray water tank there was no water....when I opened the second one...behind the wheel there was. The two handles in the bay are also VERY difficult to open and close. When this happened I turned on the sink in the bedroom and there was no water from the tank in the bay but when I opened the one behind the wheel there was. Am I missing something...the manual is of no help whatsoever. Are the two gray water tanks tied together or something?

[Festus2]

Most RV's have two gray holding tanks - one for the galley (kitchen sink) and the other for the bathroom sink and shower. I am not sure about the plumbing configuration in your Everest so I can't say if the two gray tanks are tied together or not.
If you have only two tank valve pulls, then the two gray tanks might be coupled. One pull would be for the black water, the other for the two gray tanks.

On our Cougar, we have 3 tanks and 3 pull valves - one for each tank.
You might want to make sure how many tank pulls you have. It is possible that the pull handle of one gray tank has come off or you can't find it.

[piperpilot]

There are three pull valves...one in the bay for dark water and one for gray water...behind the wheel is a third pull valve for gray water. That tank actually had water..the other one did not....at least apparently. I opened the waste tank and it drained...opened the gray water tank (in the bay) and nothing happened..opened the one behind the wheel and the water dumped.

There is a connection in the bay for a hose to wash out the waste tank but I do not know if that is hooked up.

The dealer did a walk through.....sort of....but did not address these other than to say here are these pull valves.

[chuck&gail]

Comment on hard to move. EMPTY ALL TANKS FIRST. Then spray a bit of silicon spray on the rod you pull. Then while working valve spray a third of a can of silicon spray back up the pipe. Repeat on other two valves.

Has worked great on my TT's for years.

[billstuart]

If you know there is water in the bathroom gray tank, then your problem may be that the valve is not opening. Those handles, which I agree are hard to move, are attached to sheathed cables which are in turn attached to the valves. Maybe that cable has detached from the valve and since the cable's route to the valve is probably circuitous, it could still have the feel of being attached. I hope you find the answer and get it fixed before you find yourself all soaped up in a shower that won't drain.

Happy trails,

[billstuart]

Chuck,
Great tip on the silicone spray, I'm going to try it - Thanks!

[mudmaker]

Could the two sinks share one, the toilet for another and the shower has its own too? Seems like a likely scenario. Good luck.

[geo]

And putting olive oil in the tanks will lubricate the seals!

Do a Search on this subject.

(Here we go! Perfect opening line, John!)

Ron

[piperpilot]

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I am going to contact Camping World tomorrow. I recalled that I asked why one of the gray tanks showed contents yet supposedly the tanks had been cleaned and flushed. The tech told me he would verify but if I cannot even open the tank there is no way he did unless he broke it. I will report what happens.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by geo

And putting olive oil in the tanks will lubricate the seals!

Do a Search on this subject.

(Here we go! Perfect opening line, John!)

Ron

TAA DAA <wink>

I'd bet on the cable separation and the front gray tank valve is not opening. After repairing the cable, lubricate with a quality "imported green fruit oil" (olive oil) and all should be well.

[Bluewater]

Could be as simple as the rv not having enough lean to port to assist in the drain process. Mine 5er needs a lot to drain all tanks.

[piperpilot]

I spoke to a technician that Camping World is sending out to repair the problem. His analysis is that the cable has separated from the valve but we will know for sure Friday when I am able to return to the RV.

[Nick & Gia's Trailer]

Piperpilet,

On my Cougar 5er the valves are on the left under the slide out. The Black tank valve is under the slide almost directly even with the slide cutout on the frame. The gray tank valve is approximately 10 inches to the right of the B/T valve. The galley tank valve is about 3feet further to the right of the G/T valve.

When I first inspected the valve locations, I almost missed the black tank valve as it is so close to the slide opening on the frame.

Hope this helps.

[piperpilot]

The technician came prepared to replace the valves but after removing the old ones said that the unit had been sitting without water in the tanks for a while and the seals had dried out. He removed the seals and cleaned the gate and lubricated the entire assembly. Units work great now.

[rbjsaylo]

Originally Posted by geo

And putting olive oil in the tanks will lubricate the seals!

Do a Search on this subject.

(Here we go! Perfect opening line, John!)

Ron

Maybe a dumb question about the Olive Oil Geo, but do you just pour some down the drains and the toilet to keep the openings lubricated?

[Keeper]

Originally Posted by rbjsaylo

Maybe a dumb question about the Olive Oil Geo, but do you just pour some down the drains and the toilet to keep the openings lubricated?

I don't know about using olive oil but there is a product made by Camco called Drain Valve Lube (CW sells it). It's specifically made to prevent sticking drain valves. The directions on the bottle for sticking valves are as follows: add 4 ounces to each holding tank containing 4 gallons of water. Normal driving will mix solution. Quickly open and close valves several times - allowing a minimum of liquid to escape.

One of my grey water valves is really hard to open. It has been that way since I bought the RV, so I use this product every once in a while. It helps a little but my valves are all cable operated and as such, the longer the cable, the harder it is to pull.

[JRTJH]

Keeper,

On your valve that is hard to open,the bowden cable may be your problem. Essentially, it's a flexible tube with a solid wire run through it that opens and closes the valve. You may well have a bend that's a little too tight or possibly some corrosion inside the tube.

If you can find some speedometer cable lubricant, or even just some good quality machine oil, pull the handle to open the valve fully, lubricate the solid wire attached to the handle, then open/close the valve several times. This should lubricate the inside of the tube and help it slide in and out easier.

I keep a bottle of speedometer cable lubricant in my "junk box" and it seems to last years and years, but sure does come in handy for just that type of problem.

Hope it helps you too.

John

[concours]

look into purchsing a cable oiler such as used my motorcyclists, I have one that uses a silicone spray lube, the oiler fits over the cable (no dissasembly needed) insert the tip of the lube can and inject the lube I dont see why it wouldn't work

[geo]

John, John, John ... (tsk, tsk). You did not answer rbjsaylo's question about olive oil. How could this be? Not even a link to the inappropriate thread! (gasp).

But I will give you a second chance! .

Rbjsaylo - Yes, just a cup of the cheapest olive oil down the drains and toilet to help lubricate the valve seals. And either search "olive oil" or John will help, just don't tell Festus2 we mentioned this!

Ron

[Festus2]

Mum's the word. I won't tell a soul.