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06-20-2012, 12:22 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: canada
Posts: 102
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torque wrench
I have just purchased a torque wrench for our 5th.
Question;
The instructions on the wrench state to loosen the bolt then use the torque wrench to re tighten to the correct setting. That would make the already hard task twice as difficult because I would have to loosen all the who knows how many lugs even before I begin to tighten.
Tell me there is an easier way.
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06-20-2012, 12:33 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Northville NY in the Adirondacks
Posts: 2,128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi2000
I have just purchased a torque wrench for our 5th.
Question;
The instructions on the wrench state to loosen the bolt then use the torque wrench to re tighten to the correct setting. That would make the already hard task twice as difficult because I would have to loosen all the who knows how many lugs even before I begin to tighten.
Tell me there is an easier way.
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If you have already towed the trailer a few hundred miles or more and the lugs remain nice and tight, I would suggest that you probably don't need to do anything at the moment.
But, when you next pull the wheels to pack the bearings or do other work on them, that would be the time to put that torque wrench to good use.
However, if you feel that the current torquing is inadequate and that you must retighten the lug nuts now, I'd say follow the wrench manufacturer's instructions.
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06-20-2012, 01:04 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 1,910
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Keystone gives specific instructions in the owners manual for tightening lug nuts. It's done in two stages. For 1/2" lugs, I think it's 80lb, then 120lbs. You don't have to loosen the nuts, just check for tightness. I check mine on both the trailer and the TV before every trip. It's easy nd only takes a few minutes. It's cheap insurance and you can get a suitable torque wrench at Harbor Freight that will do fine and last a long time. It's not like you're going to be torqueing head bolts with it every day.
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06-20-2012, 02:01 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 709
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ditto the above on checking for tightness using the two step process. This will re-torque any loose lugnuts. If you want to spot check one or three to see just how tight they are now, set your torque wrench for the torque they're supposed to be, then try to back one off (not off the bolt, not sloppy loose, just break it loose). If the wrench clicks before the lugnut moves, then increase the wrench setting another 2-3 or 5 lbs and try again. Now you know within a few lbs if your lugnuts are close to spec or monster gorilla tight ...
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06-20-2012, 02:07 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi2000
Tell me there is an easier way.
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If you want them all torqued the same then NO there is not an easier way. If you do it any other way your guessing and if your guessing why buy the torque wrench .
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2012 Passport 26BHWE
2008 Dodge RAM 6.7 Cummins (I love my truck)
and a bunch of toys I don't need
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06-20-2012, 03:28 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego Il
Posts: 820
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Ok here goes a good question. Do you use dynamic torque or static torque values for checking bolt torques?
Jim W.
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Jim & Jill
2010 318SAB Cougar
2008 Dodge 6.7LCummins the original 6.7L engine, w/68RFE Auto
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06-20-2012, 03:34 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: wv
Posts: 504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim W
Ok here goes a good question. Do you use dynamic torque or static torque values for checking bolt torques?
Jim W.
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uuuhhhh YES LOL
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06-20-2012, 04:36 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 152
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Lug nuts on aluminum rims are supposed to be "re-torqued" after a couple hundred miles. If you loosen off the nuts each time than theoretically you would be "re-torquing" every 200 miles.
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06-20-2012, 05:41 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Colorado Mountains
Posts: 422
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Personally I never loosen lug nuts just to retorque. I just set my wrench to proper torque and make sure it "clicks" so I know none are loose. Worked ok for me for over 50 years (although I used to have to read the dial, not hear/feel a click).
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Chuck
Wonderful Wife
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06-20-2012, 06:15 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 4,180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck&gail
Personally I never loosen lug nuts just to retorque. I just set my wrench to proper torque and make sure it "clicks" so I know none are loose. Worked ok for me for over 50 years (although I used to have to read the dial, not hear/feel a click).
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^^^^ I agree ^^^^
Been doing it almost as long, retourqing is really just checking to be sure at spec. Torque is applied to the nuts. If if clicks it is good, otherwise you are bring to correct torque.
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Visit and enjoy Oregon State Parks
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06-20-2012, 06:24 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: canada
Posts: 102
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So I set it for the correct lbs and turn, if it clicks it is at that setting?
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06-20-2012, 06:59 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Arrey,
Posts: 2,368
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kiwi2000, Howdy;
Yes, you will know that the nuts are at the least at that torque...
BUT, how do you know if the nuts are at the correct torque ?????
If you use the wrench and the 'click' sounds before the
nut moves. It may be over torqued..... Not good .
The ONLY way to know is if you release the torque (back-off the nuts),
and re-apply the torque as specified by the manufacturer. Then and ONLY
then will you know the nuts are properly torqued. Of course you'll have to
re check them later but you won't have to back them off then. Just apply pressure
till they click, or move and then click. Make a note to further check that wheel
untill it either stays in torque or dosen't.
Then you will have something else to enquire about ...
hankaye
PS. Torque is typically applied to the nuts.. Bolt head torque usually varies.
Always ask the manufacturer before As*-U-Ming.
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06-20-2012, 08:27 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 4,180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hankaye
kiwi2000, Howdy;
Yes, you will know that the nuts are at the least at that torque...
BUT, how do you know if the nuts are at the correct torque ?????
If you use the wrench and the 'click' sounds before the
nut moves. It may be over torqued..... Not good .
The ONLY way to know is if you release the torque (back-off the nuts),
and re-apply the torque as specified by the manufacturer. Then and ONLY
then will you know the nuts are properly torqued. Of course you'll have to
re check them later but you won't have to back them off then. Just apply pressure
till they click, or move and then click. Make a note to further check that wheel
untill it either stays in torque or dosen't.
Then you will have something else to enquire about ...
hankaye
PS. Torque is typically applied to the nuts.. Bolt head torque usually varies.
Always ask the manufacturer before As*-U-Ming.
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My bad, made the assumption that we knew the nuts were torqued correctly to start with.
__________________
Russ & Paula and Belle the Beagle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW 14,000# GVWR (New TV)
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS 32’ GVWR 12,360
Visit and enjoy Oregon State Parks
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06-20-2012, 08:40 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Herndon, VA
Posts: 394
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Torque
When initially torqueing I use dynamic ( moving) torque. When checking I use static.
On another related point. I use an old fashioned beam torque wrench because, while it is not as accurate, I takes the rougher treatment of an RV toolbox better than a more carefully calibrated dial wrench. I certainly would not make that choice if I were in a shop environment.
John
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06-21-2012, 03:31 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 452
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I love it when I took my 2500 Cummins Dodge truck in to have new tires installed and the mechanic made a big deal about how important it was to go around and check the torque on all the lug nuts AFTER he tightened them all with the air gun.
I asked him how did he know what torque the gun was set at (I'm sure it's the same gun he just installed the Chevy Volt's 14" tires on) and how did he know they all weren't over tightened before he started to torque them down with the torque wrench?
Needless to say I re-did them all when I got home, some where over torqued....
Ron W.
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06-21-2012, 04:18 AM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Marysville PA
Posts: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck&gail
Personally I never loosen lug nuts just to retorque. I just set my wrench to proper torque and make sure it "clicks" so I know none are loose. Worked ok for me for over 50 years (although I used to have to read the dial, not hear/feel a click).
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This is what I do!
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2009 Dodge Ram 1500
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06-21-2012, 04:39 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: WESTERN,CT
Posts: 2,095
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if you have an air gun (impact wrench) use a torque stick! they are fairly accurate. but for the rest. hank said it best. and the beam type is good for wheels. we are not doing cylinder heads here!. and the click type you get at the cheapo stores ain't even close. so if you do not wish to spend lot of cash on a click or quality digital. buy the beam type and you will be fine.
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06-21-2012, 05:00 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Halibutman214
If you want them all torqued the same then NO there is not an easier way. If you do it any other way your guessing and if your guessing why buy the torque wrench .
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Going back to the original question the answer is still NO. Retorquing is different in that you know where you started. I used an outhouse for the first 7 years of my life and it worked fine but the indoor plumbing sure was a lot better.
__________________
2012 Passport 26BHWE
2008 Dodge RAM 6.7 Cummins (I love my truck)
and a bunch of toys I don't need
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06-21-2012, 06:26 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 1,910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAABDOCTOR
if you have an air gun (impact wrench) use a torque stick! they are fairly accurate. but for the rest. hank said it best. and the beam type is good for wheels. we are not doing cylinder heads here!. and the click type you get at the cheapo stores ain't even close. so if you do not wish to spend lot of cash on a click or quality digital. buy the beam type and you will be fine.
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While the cheapie torque wrenches probably would not be suitable for building engines, there is a +/- 10% variance on lug bolts. At 120ftlbs that would be 12lbs. The cheapie versions will certainly get you there and are a lot cheaper than buying one off the Snap-On truck to use a few times a year.
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06-21-2012, 08:56 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 4,180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Landry
While the cheapie torque wrenches probably would not be suitable for building engines, there is a +/- 10% variance on lug bolts. At 120ftlbs that would be 12lbs. The cheapie versions will certainly get you there and are a lot cheaper than buying one off the Snap-On truck to use a few times a year.
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While most of my tools are Craftsman, I will go the HFT for some one or limited use items. I saw their tourque wrenches for $9.99 the othe day, not sure about that!
__________________
Russ & Paula and Belle the Beagle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW 14,000# GVWR (New TV)
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS 32’ GVWR 12,360
Visit and enjoy Oregon State Parks
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