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Old 06-20-2012, 12:22 PM   #1
kiwi2000
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torque wrench

I have just purchased a torque wrench for our 5th.

Question;

The instructions on the wrench state to loosen the bolt then use the torque wrench to re tighten to the correct setting. That would make the already hard task twice as difficult because I would have to loosen all the who knows how many lugs even before I begin to tighten.

Tell me there is an easier way.
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Old 06-20-2012, 12:33 PM   #2
SteveC7010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi2000 View Post
I have just purchased a torque wrench for our 5th.

Question;

The instructions on the wrench state to loosen the bolt then use the torque wrench to re tighten to the correct setting. That would make the already hard task twice as difficult because I would have to loosen all the who knows how many lugs even before I begin to tighten.

Tell me there is an easier way.
If you have already towed the trailer a few hundred miles or more and the lugs remain nice and tight, I would suggest that you probably don't need to do anything at the moment.

But, when you next pull the wheels to pack the bearings or do other work on them, that would be the time to put that torque wrench to good use.

However, if you feel that the current torquing is inadequate and that you must retighten the lug nuts now, I'd say follow the wrench manufacturer's instructions.
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Old 06-20-2012, 01:04 PM   #3
Bob Landry
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Keystone gives specific instructions in the owners manual for tightening lug nuts. It's done in two stages. For 1/2" lugs, I think it's 80lb, then 120lbs. You don't have to loosen the nuts, just check for tightness. I check mine on both the trailer and the TV before every trip. It's easy nd only takes a few minutes. It's cheap insurance and you can get a suitable torque wrench at Harbor Freight that will do fine and last a long time. It's not like you're going to be torqueing head bolts with it every day.
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Old 06-20-2012, 02:01 PM   #4
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ditto the above on checking for tightness using the two step process. This will re-torque any loose lugnuts. If you want to spot check one or three to see just how tight they are now, set your torque wrench for the torque they're supposed to be, then try to back one off (not off the bolt, not sloppy loose, just break it loose). If the wrench clicks before the lugnut moves, then increase the wrench setting another 2-3 or 5 lbs and try again. Now you know within a few lbs if your lugnuts are close to spec or monster gorilla tight ...
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Old 06-20-2012, 02:07 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by kiwi2000 View Post
Tell me there is an easier way.
If you want them all torqued the same then NO there is not an easier way. If you do it any other way your guessing and if your guessing why buy the torque wrench.
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Old 06-20-2012, 03:28 PM   #6
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Ok here goes a good question. Do you use dynamic torque or static torque values for checking bolt torques?
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Old 06-20-2012, 03:34 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim W View Post
Ok here goes a good question. Do you use dynamic torque or static torque values for checking bolt torques?
Jim W.
uuuhhhh YES LOL
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Old 06-20-2012, 04:36 PM   #8
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Lug nuts on aluminum rims are supposed to be "re-torqued" after a couple hundred miles. If you loosen off the nuts each time than theoretically you would be "re-torquing" every 200 miles.
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Old 06-20-2012, 05:41 PM   #9
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Personally I never loosen lug nuts just to retorque. I just set my wrench to proper torque and make sure it "clicks" so I know none are loose. Worked ok for me for over 50 years (although I used to have to read the dial, not hear/feel a click).
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Old 06-20-2012, 06:15 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck&gail View Post
Personally I never loosen lug nuts just to retorque. I just set my wrench to proper torque and make sure it "clicks" so I know none are loose. Worked ok for me for over 50 years (although I used to have to read the dial, not hear/feel a click).
^^^^ I agree ^^^^
Been doing it almost as long, retourqing is really just checking to be sure at spec. Torque is applied to the nuts. If if clicks it is good, otherwise you are bring to correct torque.
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Old 06-20-2012, 06:24 PM   #11
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So I set it for the correct lbs and turn, if it clicks it is at that setting?
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Old 06-20-2012, 06:59 PM   #12
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kiwi2000, Howdy;

Yes, you will know that the nuts are at the least at that torque...

BUT, how do you know if the nuts are at the correct torque ?????

If you use the wrench and the 'click' sounds before the
nut moves. It may be over torqued..... Not good .

The ONLY way to know is if you release the torque (back-off the nuts),
and re-apply the torque as specified by the manufacturer. Then and ONLY
then will you know the nuts are properly torqued. Of course you'll have to
re check them later but you won't have to back them off then. Just apply pressure
till they click, or move and then click. Make a note to further check that wheel
untill it either stays in torque or dosen't.
Then you will have something else to enquire about ...

hankaye

PS. Torque is typically applied to the nuts.. Bolt head torque usually varies.
Always ask the manufacturer before As*-U-Ming.
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:27 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hankaye View Post
kiwi2000, Howdy;

Yes, you will know that the nuts are at the least at that torque...

BUT, how do you know if the nuts are at the correct torque ?????

If you use the wrench and the 'click' sounds before the
nut moves. It may be over torqued..... Not good .

The ONLY way to know is if you release the torque (back-off the nuts),
and re-apply the torque as specified by the manufacturer. Then and ONLY
then will you know the nuts are properly torqued. Of course you'll have to
re check them later but you won't have to back them off then. Just apply pressure
till they click, or move and then click. Make a note to further check that wheel
untill it either stays in torque or dosen't.
Then you will have something else to enquire about ...

hankaye

PS. Torque is typically applied to the nuts.. Bolt head torque usually varies.
Always ask the manufacturer before As*-U-Ming.
My bad, made the assumption that we knew the nuts were torqued correctly to start with.
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:40 PM   #14
Johnnyfry
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Torque

When initially torqueing I use dynamic ( moving) torque. When checking I use static.

On another related point. I use an old fashioned beam torque wrench because, while it is not as accurate, I takes the rougher treatment of an RV toolbox better than a more carefully calibrated dial wrench. I certainly would not make that choice if I were in a shop environment.

John
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Old 06-21-2012, 03:31 AM   #15
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I love it when I took my 2500 Cummins Dodge truck in to have new tires installed and the mechanic made a big deal about how important it was to go around and check the torque on all the lug nuts AFTER he tightened them all with the air gun.

I asked him how did he know what torque the gun was set at (I'm sure it's the same gun he just installed the Chevy Volt's 14" tires on) and how did he know they all weren't over tightened before he started to torque them down with the torque wrench?

Needless to say I re-did them all when I got home, some where over torqued....

Ron W.
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Old 06-21-2012, 04:18 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck&gail View Post
Personally I never loosen lug nuts just to retorque. I just set my wrench to proper torque and make sure it "clicks" so I know none are loose. Worked ok for me for over 50 years (although I used to have to read the dial, not hear/feel a click).
This is what I do!
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Old 06-21-2012, 04:39 AM   #17
SAABDOCTOR
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if you have an air gun (impact wrench) use a torque stick! they are fairly accurate. but for the rest. hank said it best. and the beam type is good for wheels. we are not doing cylinder heads here!. and the click type you get at the cheapo stores ain't even close. so if you do not wish to spend lot of cash on a click or quality digital. buy the beam type and you will be fine.
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Old 06-21-2012, 05:00 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Halibutman214 View Post
If you want them all torqued the same then NO there is not an easier way. If you do it any other way your guessing and if your guessing why buy the torque wrench.
Going back to the original question the answer is still NO. Retorquing is different in that you know where you started. I used an outhouse for the first 7 years of my life and it worked fine but the indoor plumbing sure was a lot better.
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:26 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAABDOCTOR View Post
if you have an air gun (impact wrench) use a torque stick! they are fairly accurate. but for the rest. hank said it best. and the beam type is good for wheels. we are not doing cylinder heads here!. and the click type you get at the cheapo stores ain't even close. so if you do not wish to spend lot of cash on a click or quality digital. buy the beam type and you will be fine.
While the cheapie torque wrenches probably would not be suitable for building engines, there is a +/- 10% variance on lug bolts. At 120ftlbs that would be 12lbs. The cheapie versions will certainly get you there and are a lot cheaper than buying one off the Snap-On truck to use a few times a year.
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:56 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Landry View Post
While the cheapie torque wrenches probably would not be suitable for building engines, there is a +/- 10% variance on lug bolts. At 120ftlbs that would be 12lbs. The cheapie versions will certainly get you there and are a lot cheaper than buying one off the Snap-On truck to use a few times a year.
While most of my tools are Craftsman, I will go the HFT for some one or limited use items. I saw their tourque wrenches for $9.99 the othe day, not sure about that!
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