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10-10-2016, 05:05 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 30
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Water input
No manuals on used trailer. Can anyone explain which one fills tank ans what the others do?
Scott
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10-10-2016, 05:32 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,348
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Re: Water input
Okay here we go:
Top black inlet is for winterizing. You would attach a hose to that fitting and then stick the other end into a jug of RV antifreeze. You would then turn the dial next to it to allow the water pump to circulate the antifreeze. In the picture posted it is turned to "on" meaning the water pump is ready to suck up antifreeze. In the "off" position it will allow the water pump to pull from the fresh tank.
Next one down is the hose connection. You connect your fresh water hose to this fitting. Hard to see but the knob next to it looks like the switch to fill the fresh tank or supply pressurized water to the trailer.
Bottom connection is most likely the black tank rinser.
Water heater bypass allows you to bypass the tank when winterizing, so you don't have to pump antifreeze into it. When you winterize, just remove the drain plug/anode rod.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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10-10-2016, 06:19 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 30
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Re: Water input
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57
Okay here we go:
Top black inlet is for winterizing. You would attach a hose to that fitting and then stick the other end into a jug of RV antifreeze. You would then turn the dial next to it to allow the water pump to circulate the antifreeze. In the picture posted it is turned to "on" meaning the water pump is ready to suck up antifreeze. In the "off" position it will allow the water pump to pull from the fresh tank.
Next one down is the hose connection. You connect your fresh water hose to this fitting. Hard to see but the knob next to it looks like the switch to fill the fresh tank or supply pressurized water to the trailer.
Bottom connection is most likely the black tank rinser.
Water heater bypass allows you to bypass the tank when winterizing, so you don't have to pump antifreeze into it. When you winterize, just remove the drain plug/anode rod.
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Thank you. So the second one down is shore water and fills the tank?
Scott
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10-10-2016, 06:25 PM
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#4
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Site Team | Emeritus
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 3,878
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Re: Water input
It is shore water in its current setting. If you turn the switch down then it would fill your fresh water tank. Fresh tank uses the water pump to pressurize the system so you have water at the faucets. City water = no pump
Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Fuzion Impact 312
2015 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ
WELL....THAT WAS FUN!
__________________
Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Impact 312
2017 Silverado 3500HD SRW
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10-10-2016, 06:34 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 30
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Re: Water input
Thanks. The pictures make no sense.
Scott
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10-10-2016, 06:41 PM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,348
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Re: Water input
The pictures are there to show you what position to put the knobs in depending on what you want to accomplish. Your set up is simple compared to some of the new ones.
I'm glad your getting it all figured out though!! If you have any more questions don't hesitate to ask.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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10-10-2016, 07:54 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 2,910
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Re: Water input
On our rig, we have all the same valves and connections, just in a couple different positions. I was behind the convenience center making a minor repair a while back, and decided to make a drawing to visualize where everything goes. Yours will be the same from the various valves and inlets, just in different positions. The blue line in the drawing of the valves shows normal water flow. Also, remember there is a check valve built into the pump, and with this winterize system, the hot water out fitting at the water heater is a check valve which only allows hot water to flow out, so when the water heater bypass valve is turned, and the winterize valve is also turned, you can drain the water heater without water or antifreeze going into the water heater tank.
__________________
Bob & Becky
2012 3402 Montana
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC
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10-11-2016, 05:38 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 30
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Re: Water input
Wow...thanks. So I fill the tank or use shore water from the same input. I just turn the valve and it fills or pressurizes the system? How do I use the bottom input for sewer flush?
Scott
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10-11-2016, 07:09 AM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,348
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Re: Water input
Sewer flush is a straight shot to the black tank. Just hook up a hose (NOT your drinking water hose) and turn on the water. There is a sprayer in the tank that rinses all the yuck. Make sure you open the black tank dump valve, or you will fill the tank and push unwanted liquid into unwanted places.
When I run my rinser I turn on the water, dump my tank and then close the valve and let the sprayer do its thing for about 3 minutes. Then I dump again, looking through a clear connector to see if it's clean. If it isn't I repeat the process.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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10-11-2016, 09:00 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Nevada
Posts: 2,695
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Re: Water input
...and you might want to use a water pressure reducer or the black tank flush plastic parts may leak or increase in number.
__________________
Desert185 🇺🇸 (Retired Chemtrail vendor)
-Ram 2500 QC, LB, 4x4, Cummins HO/exhaust brake, 6-speed stick.
-Andersen Ultimate 24K 5er Hitch.
-2014 Cougar 326SRX, Maxxis tires w/TPMS, wet bolts, two 6v batts.
-Four Wheel 8' Popup Camper.
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10-11-2016, 10:11 AM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 30
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Re: Water input
Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert185
...and you might want to use a water pressure reducer or the black tank flush plastic parts may leak or increase in number.
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Oh...they fly apart? I have a well that is 60psi max. Is that to much?
Scott
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10-11-2016, 10:20 AM
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#12
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,996
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Re: Water input
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishalaska
Oh...they fly apart? I have a well that is 60psi max. Is that to much?
Scott
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Our well pressure is regulated at "ON" at 45PSI "OFF" at 60 PSI. I still use a pressure regulator on my trailer city water input and my black tank flush, even at home.
I've read "somewhere" (I think on an aftermarket black tank flush kit) that the pressure recommendations were "minimum" of 40 PSI and "not to exceed 60 PSI, but I can't remember where I saw that note or even if it was because of the black tank nozzle or the anti-siphon valve or ?????
Anyway, better safe than sorry. If you've ever blown the rotary head on the "in tank nozzle", you know what a hassle it can be to access and change. For me, I really don't care that the inside of the black tank is "squeaky clean" and I'd ask, "is the tank "that much cleaner" when using 60 PSI over 40 PSI?". I'd much rather it not leak from a fitting that I damaged with excess pressure.
YVMV.....
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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