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Old 06-15-2015, 02:46 PM   #21
PARAPTOR
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Question

Thx. seems logical that the max torque on a lug would be related to the size of the stud, but thought I was told given the same size stud there were different torque values base on a AL versus steel rim???
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Old 06-15-2015, 02:52 PM   #22
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Update. Just spoke with Adam at Tredit which is the distributor for Keystone. Great guy. Turns out this issue was due to me putting F rated tires on the factory rims. I was running 95psi on a rim not rated for it. Glad he told me. So I upgraded to the T 09 in Silver which is rated at 110 psi. Sold me two for $70. and two for $55. to offset the defect even tho he really didn't have to. Great company to deal with. Should be here in a couple weeks.
Was he located in York PA? Trying to see if its the same company. Thank you
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Old 06-15-2015, 03:24 PM   #23
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Thx. seems logical that the max torque on a lug would be related to the size of the stud, but thought I was told given the same size stud there were different torque values base on a AL versus steel rim???
Most wheels actually have a torque range. Steel wheels are usually lower than aluminum, but there is typically an overlap area. From my experience, torque charts use a spec that is in the overlap which is usually on the upper end of the steel wheel and lower end of the alloy.
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Old 06-15-2015, 03:37 PM   #24
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Update. Just spoke with Adam at Tredit which is the distributor for Keystone. Great guy. Turns out this issue was due to me putting F rated tires on the factory rims. I was running 95psi on a rim not rated for it. Glad he told me. So I upgraded to the T 09 in Silver which is rated at 110 psi. Sold me two for $70. and two for $55. to offset the defect even tho he really didn't have to. Great company to deal with. Should be here in a couple weeks.
The higher pressure tire did NOT make the spokes crack. The wheel is inadequate for the load. Kudos to you for catching it though. That could have been a bona fide disaster had a wheel failed at highway speed.
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Old 06-15-2015, 03:47 PM   #25
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That's what I would expect as well. The GVWR of the RV is 16,500 with 3k on the hitch. That leaves approximately 13,500 on the wheels if fully loaded. The T03 wheels are rated at 3580 each so all 4 together would be 14,320, very close to the max of the trailer. If everything was loaded evenly and all weight distributed evenly on each wheel, in theory they should be able to carry it. If there was more weight on the right side, it wouldn't take much to overload them. Add in the additional jarring from the stiffer sidewall tire and it wouldn't take much to cause this.
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Old 06-15-2015, 04:08 PM   #26
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I'd like to see the methods by which suspension, hitch and chassis components are "rated". I've never seen anything live up to its "rating" for long.
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Old 06-16-2015, 05:46 AM   #27
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http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/att...1&d=1434462272

I've read so many posts about "China Bombs". Are these some of them? Mine are G Rated. What life span do you get from these if this is the tire you all are mentioning?
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Old 06-16-2015, 05:59 AM   #28
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Adam and Tredit said the the T03 was only rated at 80 psi. I was running my TP at the max which is 95. There in lies the problem. If your running the same set up as me you may have already created the damage. However, my Raptor came to me from a previous owner that admitted he did not know how to trailer. That became evident after a couple suspension hangers broke and now two cracked rims. I had to replace/upgrade my suspension to Dexter axle wetbolt setup. Much heavier than the factory setup.

Anyhoo, I agree that one would expect the bead wall to crack, but mine could've been from what I just mentioned above.

Not sure what to tell ya for your wheels. If your running the max TP the Carlisle calls for like me, you could be coming into this problem and would definantly cause some sleepless night for me once I came aware.

Best wishes!! Keep us posted if you do see any cracks and for sure be very careful.
Given your statement high lighted in red, I would say those wheels have been curbed. Were the spring hangers broken on the same side? Understand the PSI concern, but agree that would more likely be a bead failure. The stiffer sidewalls may have contributed, but, I think they were curbed or driven through a bad break in the pavement.
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Old 06-16-2015, 06:36 AM   #29
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That or run through some serious tight cornering putting a lot of side load on them. We had one forum member in the past have the suspension shackles fail when he got caught in a tight cornering situation
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Old 06-16-2015, 07:06 PM   #30
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According to Sendel's website, the 8 lug T03 is rated for 100 psi. The 6 lug is only 80. He must not have been aware that you had the 8 lug wheel. Did you order new wheels? If so, make sure they ordered the right ones. I'm assuming you dropped the pressures down in the other 2. I'd be watching them since the F rated tires should be running 95 psi. Do you have the number handy, I'd like to call them myself since I have the same setup.
That is quite possible. I attribute the wheel failure to the previous owner that drive by brail. No offense meant. I ran all tires at 95 psi. Now and then. I just checked and yes they are the correct rims. Capable of 110. Psi. Try 866 443 9907. Great people to work with. For 286.00 I'm getting Four New alloys, caps, and shipping. Couldn't be happier.
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Old 06-17-2015, 04:48 PM   #31
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Was he located in York PA? Trying to see if its the same company. Thank you

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Old 06-17-2015, 04:52 PM   #32
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The higher pressure tire did NOT make the spokes crack. The wheel is inadequate for the load. Kudos to you for catching it though. That could have been a bona fide disaster had a wheel failed at highway speed.
Agreed. Ive had a Tire blow and that was enuf. I Couldn't imagine a wheel coming apart.
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Old 06-17-2015, 04:55 PM   #33
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Given your statement high lighted in red, I would say those wheels have been curbed. Were the spring hangers broken on the same side? Understand the PSI concern, but agree that would more likely be a bead failure. The stiffer sidewalls may have contributed, but, I think they were curbed or driven through a bad break in the pavement.
Thats my thinking. Its been a while so im not sure but i m pretty sure they were on the same side.
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Old 06-18-2015, 12:19 PM   #34
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[QUOTE=ocho;175539]While readying my 300 mp for this past weekends ROT rally here in Austin, I found this nasty surprise during my air pressure checks. Both wheels on the right side were like this and cracked all the way thru. Does anyone know and have the manufactures contact info? Gonna see about ordering a couple more. Yikes!![/QUOTE I was around Austin during the ROT rally decided against it . I did stay a few day in Comfort and I rode the 3 Twisted sisters.
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Old 06-18-2015, 01:42 PM   #35
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Beautiful place to ride. Done it a few times.
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Old 07-31-2015, 02:01 PM   #36
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I heard today that Keystone is putting 8 bolt rims manufactured or distributed by Tredit Tire and Wheel on their fifth wheels. I was told these rims are not able to handle rigs over 12000 Lbs. They have a problem with them cracking and are trying to keep it secret.
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Old 08-01-2015, 04:44 AM   #37
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not the pressure

Like ParryB, I have a hard time believing the wheel spoke cracks are attributable to air pressure, but rather an overload situation. I would also be suspect of possible damage caused during the process of mounting a new tire on those wheels. Maybe all TT manufacturers are the same but it sure seems Keystone builds "close to the max", rather than increasing the safety factor a bit.
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Old 08-01-2015, 05:17 AM   #38
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When I spoke to the wheel manufacturer, he said spoke cracks near the hub are caused by overload, period. He also informed me that the rims are not specked for the trailer they go on, they are just purchased by the manufacturer. When I asked about the rims on my 5er, he said in his opinion, they should not be on that camper, they're too light. Even though by spec they can support the weight, aluminum rims are like an aluminum can, they flex. After enough time of flexing back and forth they crack. Running a rim close to it's max load rating capacity exasperates the process because they flex more. Just like when you bend an aluminum can, if you do it just a little, it will take a very, very long time, if ever, to get it to break in half. If you bend it further and faster you can break it in half pretty quickly.
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Old 08-01-2015, 12:45 PM   #39
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When I spoke to the wheel manufacturer, he said spoke cracks near the hub are caused by overload, period. He also informed me that the rims are not specked for the trailer they go on, they are just purchased by the manufacturer. When I asked about the rims on my 5er, he said in his opinion, they should not be on that camper, they're too light. Even though by spec they can support the weight, aluminum rims are like an aluminum can, they flex. After enough time of flexing back and forth they crack. Running a rim close to it's max load rating capacity exasperates the process because they flex more. Just like when you bend an aluminum can, if you do it just a little, it will take a very, very long time, if ever, to get it to break in half. If you bend it further and faster you can break it in half pretty quickly.
Also, to Cardinal. I agree with both of you up to a point. Yes Keystone and proly the other RV makers build them with just enough to get them out the door. Having said that I cant fault the wheel manufacturer in my situation. As I said earlier or another post cant remember now, but I had a couple hangers broken after a trip on my RV and they were on the same side as the cracked wheels. When I purchased my 5er the sales person that it was recently traded in for a pusher because the owner had a hard time "trailering" and even the dealer had to change out one wheel before selling it to me.

I take that as meaning the previous owner drove by the braille method. Cutting corners too close and bumping off things. But it gave me a chance to upgrade all my suspension components as they failed. First was the Dexter wet bolt hanger and shackle set up which is FAR superior to the stock components. Then the Carlisle F rated tires, then the new rims with a much higher weight rating than stock and the ability to handle up to 110 psi. The Carlisle's like 95 psi. Now I feel very confident when going down the road.
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Old 12-17-2015, 05:14 AM   #40
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A thread from earlier this year, a great read.

I'm going through upgrade on suspension of my trailer after a blow out last month. Insurance is replacing axles as the spindle/axle of the blown tire is now canted significantly (negative camber). Bumping up from 3,500 lb axles to 4,400. 5-bolt to 6, 10" backing plate to 12" (bigger brakes). Shopping for wheels now, increasing from 15" to 16". Oh, and a 3" lift to level the trailer. I'll have invested as much in the undercarriage, as the trailer is worth!

Educating myself on wheels now. Thanks to all who contributed.
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