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Old 02-11-2019, 07:47 AM   #11
German Shepherd Guy
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Your other option is to upgrade your battery bank to a LiFEPO4 medium. It is expensive but you'll more than double your amp hours and shed quite a few pounds. Recharge rate is much better than typical AGM or flooded batteries and the number of discharge cycles is in the 1000's. If I had a big, expensive rig like yours, that's what I would do, especially if your plan is to stay off grid. (Note...These batteries need to be above freezing temps in order to effectively charge so many owners will relocate the battery bank inside the living space).

Would you have to install special chargers with those batteries? Those definitely look fairly high tech. Has anyone out there used them for RVing?


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Old 02-11-2019, 07:51 AM   #12
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Don't be so set on 12v batteries. Good 6v batteries can offer higher AH rating and can discharge further and more often without causing failures.

And they don't cost much more than their 12v contemporaries.
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Old 02-11-2019, 09:40 AM   #13
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Don't be so set on 12v batteries. Good 6v batteries can offer higher AH rating and can discharge further and more often without causing failures.



And they don't cost much more than their 12v contemporaries.


Two 6 volt deep cycle may be the way I go. I also like the idea of having a separate battery or set of batteries for the fridge. Once I figure out what I have in there I can decide which path to go. We donít plan to boondock often but would like the option to do it for a day or two if possible.
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Old 02-11-2019, 10:00 AM   #14
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My opinion, when dry camping in any of these typical RVs you need more power than 2 12v batteries. Having a back up a genny will fill that gap. Maybe solar depending where your at. For me a generator is simple, get 1 that you can move without breaking your back. Place away from the unit, you likely will not here it running. Example with my TT and a 2000w Yamaha. I placed the genny about 5 ft from the rear of the TT. Inside the unit I could hear it, but at night while sleeping the furnace running is many times louder. I am giving up on having 2 12v batteries, they only last about 2 days in cold temps in this TT. I have leds in all lights, run refer on propane and HW on propane only when needed. The furnace is the big draw. It seemed to take around 6 hours to recharge to full batteries everyday. My last routine was to start the genny full of fuel around 4p and let it run all night til we left at 6am. That insured no getting up at night without heat or electricity. Getting 2 6v batteries is my spring upgrade project.
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Old 02-11-2019, 10:30 AM   #15
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Two 6 volt deep cycle may be the way I go. I also like the idea of having a separate battery or set of batteries for the fridge. Once I figure out what I have in there I can decide which path to go. We donít plan to boondock often but would like the option to do it for a day or two if possible.
One option that may "transition you" into an adequate battery configuration would be to move your current battery pair to the refrigerator only circuit and turn the refrigerator off when possible (don't run the ice maker at all when on batteries) and buy two GC2 or EGC2 (higher amp rating) to operate the trailer systems. That way you'd have increased capacity for the furnace and continue to have availability from your old batteries without discarding them.

Once those 12 volt batteries finally die, replace them with the same type golf cart batteries by shifting the existing ones to the refrigerator circuit and installing the new ones on the main system.
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Old 02-11-2019, 10:55 AM   #16
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One option that may "transition you" into an adequate battery configuration would be to move your current battery pair to the refrigerator only circuit and turn the refrigerator off when possible (don't run the ice maker at all when on batteries) and buy two GC2 or EGC2 (higher amp rating) to operate the trailer systems. That way you'd have increased capacity for the furnace and continue to have availability from your old batteries without discarding them.



Once those 12 volt batteries finally die, replace them with the same type golf cart batteries by shifting the existing ones to the refrigerator circuit and installing the new ones on the main system.


Good idea. I also need to understand how the charger/converter is connected before I change anything.
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Old 02-11-2019, 11:08 AM   #17
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Good idea. I also need to understand how the charger/converter is connected before I change anything.
I can't say how your system is designed. Some have an "inverter/charger" which gives the refrigerator system a separate charging capacity through the inverter and any batteries installed on the inverter can be separate and distinct from the main coach system.

Some later models don't have that capability. No idea what is installed in your trailer so no way to say if you can separate the refrigerator from the main coach or not (without rewiring some things)....

Ideally, if you can separate the refrigerator from the main coach electrical system, then you would have the capacity to run the refrigerator "until the inverter shuts off" without affecting your furnace and water pump function. That way, you wouldn't wake up cold with no lights caused by the refrigerator "stealing all your power"...
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Old 02-17-2019, 04:06 PM   #18
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Name:	IMG_2864.jpg
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ID:	20363 Here is a picture of one of the 2 batteries I have installed. From what I find online itís a series 27 deep cycle battery. Iím still trying to completely understand all the different types and designations for the batteries.
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