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Old 11-05-2018, 11:08 AM   #11
JRF16
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Happy Valley
Posts: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
You "should see", starting at the top, a thin, vinyl floor covering, a 1/4" OSB (or two 1/8" luan ply sheets), 1.5" white rigid foam sandwiched between the aluminum floor stringers which are 2x2 or 2x3 square tubing, and an underlayer of 1/8" luan. The entire assembly is "wrapped" in DARCO, which is a "black plasticized, nylon reinforced, waterproof fabric" (think blue poly-tarp). All of this is laid on top of the steel frame rails and fastened to the outriggers along the extreme side edges of the floor. The inside walls are then placed in location, the shower and large floor standing cabinets are installed, then the outside walls are placed in position and secured to the outriggers with bolts through the floor.

Taking the trailer floor apart will be "impossible" if you try to do it in one piece because the walls are fastened above the floor. You'll need to carefully identify the location of the floor stringers, then remove the flooring in layers, being careful not to damage the underlying structures. You'll need to work around the "rigid heat ducting", the floor stringers and any electric runs that might be embedded inside the floor. Typically the electric/plumbing runs are under the floor or above the floor (inside cabinets) but as sure as you "decide they're not embedded in the foam is the one time you cut through something important and not repairable.... So, be careful.

There are a few threads in the past couple of months with photos of repairs people have done to their sandwiched flooring. Looking at those photos will give you some ideas on what you "might" find.... MIGHT is not always what you'll see in your specific trailer......
Had same problem with our 2016 Outback Terrain. Started developing soft spots around all three floor vents. Started to feel like the floor was going to give way. I opened the bottom and placed additional cross supports between frames close to the vents on both sides. Used 1x2 rectangular tube so that there was clearance for the heat ducts. There is still a little flex in the floor.

The sandwich floor is very poor construction and doesn't have any good solutions for repair. The bottom thin plywood was loose on the entire bottom. This should be the strongest layer but is the weakest. Very poor bonding of weak materials. Then there are the stresses of just the fastening the floor to the frame, flexing from walking on it and traveling. This is why I chose to support from underneath. Also when the screws holding the vents stripped I put glue in the holes which I found out later had dissolved the styrofoam.

I suspect there is moisture due to condensation from the tanks that affects the cheap bottom plywood.
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Old Today, 02:32 PM   #12
German Shepherd Guy
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Norwood
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This is a big job. Had a 2007 Zepplin. Water damage in the bedroom. Had to replace floor. Top layer 3/16 plywood/ then 1.5" foam/ then 1/8" bottom, which was plywood too! There was no sub structure, only the plastic wrap that enclosed the bottom of the trailer and then the ground! I had to build a 2x2" frame and then put 1/8" tempered board on the bottom. Then bolt the frame to the few and far between aluminum cross members. Then "joist" the frame with more 2X2 and then put 1.5" foam insulation in and then cover the whole with 3/16 tempered fiber board top. Worked like a champ but I was truly astonished when I first removed the linoleum. Had no idea. I think preventing moisture condensation is crucial in a TT.


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