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Old 03-25-2019, 02:42 PM   #41
gkainz
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Tinman,
In the middle of your post you said "if all of the breaks (sic) on the trailer work, then there's nothing wrong with the trailer".

That's "mostly" correct. You still could have a failure/fault in your wiring between the trailer connector plug to the junction box (I assume your trailer has one) where the emergency brake 12VDC(+) connects.
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Old 03-25-2019, 05:18 PM   #42
24vctd
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Campy I had a 2015 cougar tt I could not get the brakes to lock on a test no matter how high I had the controller set. I finally adjusted the brakes up by backing the trailer up a few times applying heavy broke it made a huge difference.
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Old 05-10-2019, 12:14 PM   #43
Campy
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We just now got the storage cleared out so I can get to my camper. Going to start at the front and work my way back till this is solved. That camper should have more brake power than it does.
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Old 05-10-2019, 01:22 PM   #44
sourdough
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Keep us posted Campy.
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Old 06-15-2019, 12:26 PM   #45
Campy
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Well we found two separate issues. First the camper is wired from the front to the axles with 14 gauge wire! Pretty sure for the length is should be at least 10 gauge wire. It starts out as 10 until it gets to the junction box under the pin box and from there its 14.
Second issue which is really stupid on the builders part and partially stupid on my part (for not catching it while doing the bearings) one axle is installed backwards! The left and right brakes simply need to be swapped around to get them working in the RIGHT direction. Currently waiting on new wiring from etrailer and already have the brake assemblies swapped. Pretty sure this will solve my weak brake issues.
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Old 06-15-2019, 02:14 PM   #46
sourdough
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Good news! I know it was a lot of work and irritation but hoping this gets you squared away. Glad you found the problem.
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Old 06-15-2019, 07:00 PM   #47
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There is an open recall for “cruiser” brand products for “backwards” axles. We just did both axles on a trailer.
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Old 06-16-2019, 07:20 AM   #48
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Not the right way!

From post#36 I have to jump in here and say that this is not the correct way to adjust brakes!
This is what I was told to do by a big trailer/RV repair near Palm Springs Cal. First. Using a small bottle jack, jack up just one tire at a time (DO NOT JACK UP THE TRAILER) till it can spin freely (put the jack so it will be between the u-bolts on just one tire at a time). Now with the one tire clear off the ground go and pull the emergency break cord switch (MUST HAVE TRAILER BATTERY HOOKED UP) also having the trailer plugged in to 120 supply would keep the battery charged up while you do this to all wheels with breaks one at a time. I was told to readjust breaks so that they would still spin just a little while you try to turn them using a lot of your body force to turn them. I was told you want the trailer to help stop the truck without just locking up the breaks and just skidding.
Yes, you should raise each tire individually but the adjuster should be rotated to the point that wheel starts to drag and then the adjuster should be backed off until the drag stops with no voltage applied to the wheel. Then the brake controller can be the judge of how much voltage to apply to the magnets to provide the correct and necessary braking. If done the recommended way in post #36 the brake controller would have to apply full power and only get minimal (using a lot of your body force to turn them) stopping force.
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