Passport door hits awning, is there a fix?

[Fishwater]

Hello, we recently purchased a 2009 290BH Passport. We noticed the door hits the awning arm when the awning is open allowing the door to open about 100 degrees. Has anyone fixed this "issue"? I'm thinking of trading the 15ft manual awning for a 17ft manual, the front awning arm will cover the front of the bedroom window slightly but should allow the door to open fully & lay flat with the camper. I'm not sure but can't see any reinforced area where the lower legs bolt in the body & the top gutter looks long enough for the additional 2ft of awning. We have two little girls & I can already see some dents in the frame of the door from contacting the arm. What a stupid design, I can't believe Keystone would make a trailer with this issue.

[Bob Landry]

My Outback was the same way up to the point of tearing the gas spring for the door out of the filon. I removed the spring, filled the holes and installed a door catch so that the door would be held in one position when open and so that it wouldn't hit the awning support arm when it is breezy. You are right. That is a poor design, and as you look around, you are going to fine more design problems, courtesy of Gilligan. See if yours has an exhaust to the outside for the range vent hood. Many don't and that's probably the major hot-button around here.

[Fishwater]

Mine does have a vent on the outside of the stove although I haven't opened it to make sure it's functional. Fortunately I used to work at the dealership that I bought the unit from so if there are any issues they will work with me. This is why I can trade my 15' awning for a 17' if it will correct the door opening issue.

[Tri Tip]

Mine does that on our 2910. Just gotta live with it. I just use a bungee cord to hold the door open.

[LiteFoot]

I've read about this problem on several different forums. The only fix I've seen is 1) people will install a roller to the top of the door so it doesn't damage the awning or 2) they will retract the awning slightly which raises the awning up & out of the way of the door. Not sure if that's an option on your awning though. #2 did fix my door vs awning issue.

Ryan

[SteveC7010]

My '99 Sunline had basically the same problem with a manual awning. If you didn't unhook the awning post from the trailer and stand it straight up, the door would strike the post. It was plenty open, but still up against the post.

Our solution was a small bungee cord to hold it open. Worked fine.

[fireidiot]

Our old TT had this issue. I bought some felt and put it on the door where it would hit the awning arm. Also, we used a bungee cord to hold it open until I found a 90 degree arm to hold the door open.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

[Jay Pat]

Can you use one of the round, foam rubber foam things around the awning linkage to buffer the contact with the door?
Pat

[SalesRepGuy]

Originally Posted by LiteFoot

I've read about this problem on several different forums. The only fix I've seen is 1) people will install a roller to the top of the door so it doesn't damage the awning or 2) they will retract the awning slightly which raises the awning up & out of the way of the door. Not sure if that's an option on your awning though. #2 did fix my door vs awning issue.

Ryan

Hi.

I haven't an answer for your specific issue but did find myself recalling something interesting that may be of note to readers of this thread.

I toured a new Sprinter 5W the other day that had a new awning on it. This awning had the feature of being, as are slides but as I have so far not seen in awnings, the ability to be manually retracted should a camper suffer loss of power.

A nice bit of insurance...

Perhaps these will become more broadly available in future units.

[campingcpl]

The front door on our trailer hits the awning arm also and does not allow the door open all the way. Usually we will just open the door and then like another poster said, use a bungee to hold the door open. When we first picked up our unit and was doing the walk through at the dealers they had the door all the way open and the awning out and when they went to close the awning, the arm caught the door and bent the awning arm to the point it needed to be replaced.

[Patrickj65]

I had not experienced the issue until earlier this year after a hard rain with the awning up, the whole awning sagged and hit the door when opened. To fix this on my 2010 2910BH, i just loosened up the knobs on each side of the awning and pushed it back up. It no longer hit any more. I also keep the knobs a little loose when retracting so the power awning and tighten them when it is extended.

Hope this helps.

Patrick

[muddynoll]

We have a 2011 2910BH and one of the first things I liked about it was that the door could open all the way without hitting the awning arm. DW and I both said that was a must when looking to trade up. I noticed on newer model years of the 2910 keystone moved the awning back so that both the entry door and the rear storage door hit the awning arms. The engineers designing these things obviously don't use them or they would be doing a better lob of it. If your door is hitting the arm get a pool noodle at the dollar store and fit it around the arm. They make great bump stops.

[CincyGus]

Cut a pool noodle in half and put it on the awning arm and your won't have to worry about damaging the door and also give yourself some noggin protection

[audio1der]

I put an adhesive, clear rubber bumper (cabinet door stop) on the awning arm where the door contacts it. $0.25 at the hardware store.