black valve leaking

[Whitehouse]

we have a "new to us" 2009 Keystone Raptor 380LEV. Got to try it out for the first time this past week. Loved it except when I went to dump. I must have had a full pipe of black tank waiting for me to take the cap off.

All valves were closed but this appeared to be a full pipe of crap just waiting for me even though all valves were closed. What I did notice after dumping was that the black valve stem handle didn't go all the way to the washer. in other words didn't push in as far as my gray tank handle. The black valve was also stiff to operate.

I'm going to add another "safety" valve before the end cap similar to my old 3612 Raptor, but want to fix the current problem. I'm thinking there could be a piece of poo or toilet paper preventing the valve from sealing. Is there a way to remove this material without having to take the valve appart?

to access the valve it looks like I would have to cut a slit in my coroplast, which I'd like to avoid. Do these have long cables that go to the valve?

any tips or suggestions?

[Englishman]

You can install Valterra T58 Twist-On Waste Valve at the end of the waste pipe that just twists on for less than $30 from amazon. This will hold the leak back allowing you to attach the sawer with out a nasty supprise. We had the same issue on our bullet.

Sent from my SPH-P100 using Tapatalk 2

[SteveC7010]

Originally Posted by Whitehouse

I'm going to add another "safety" valve before the end cap similar to my old 3612 Raptor, but want to fix the current problem. I'm thinking there could be a piece of poo or toilet paper preventing the valve from sealing. Is there a way to remove this material without having to take the valve appart?

to access the valve it looks like I would have to cut a slit in my coroplast, which I'd like to avoid. Do these have long cables that go to the valve?

any tips or suggestions?

We've discussed proper black tank cleaning and maintenance a number of times in some other recent threads. If it's as you suspect, both are water soluble and should come out with sufficient cleaning. One of the back flush units might be helpful here.

Quite a few of the tanks have cables between the handle and the actual valve, but the only way to be sure is to pull a couple of the screws that hold the coroplast in place and peek up in there with a flashlight.

If it is a cable system, we just talked about freeing up and lubing a cable in another thread in the last few days. Several folks have reported vastly improved valve performance after some cable maintenance.

If it is not a cable, but simply an extended shaft, some folks have reported binding issues with these that affect valve operation. If that is the case and it's behind the coroplast, you're left with two choices: open it up yourself or have an RV repair shop do it.

[Whitehouse]

thanks for the replies. Think I'll add the extra valve and try flushing it good. Might be able to get whatever material is lodged (if that is the problem). I'll call keystone tomorrow and see if how far it is to the grey tank from the handle. Was hoping someone w/a Raptor would have this info.

[hankaye]

Whitehouse, Howdy;

You may have a rubber gasket (one on each side of the blade valve),
that has 'bulged, rolled or twisted. If you follow the tips and suggestions in the various threads (use the search function), and it still feels stiff or dosen't
appear to close compleatly I would suggest looking at the gaskets...

hankaye

[SteveC7010]

Originally Posted by hankaye

If you follow the tips and suggestions in the various threads (use the search function), and it still feels stiff or dosen't
appear to close compleatly I would suggest looking at the gaskets...

And there is only one way to do that....