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Old 08-22-2017, 08:54 PM   #41
ctbruce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmaxmutt View Post
The actual quote from the manual is:

"For changes during the initial setup we recommend adding or removing spacer washers first to try and keep the spring arms parallel with the trailer frame. This gives you more adjustment options later if needed, and may also reduce some noise.

Once the maximum (8) or minimum (4) number of spacer washers has been reached, further adjustments can be made by raising or lowering the L‑brackets. Minor adjustments later for changes in loading can usually be done by moving only the L-brackets."
My clarifications are in parenthesis to show that they were my opinion. The Bold was added for the pertinent parts to point out the information. The washers are used for permanent setting and the L brackets are adjustable on a temporary basis for changes in loads to make it easier to adjust than taking the head apart to add/remove washers. This is bore out in Equalizers videos, especaially this one at around the 530 mark.

Since you suggested to call Equalizer in the morning, I will. But be assured, you can do with your hitch whatever you think is great. Move your L brackets all over the place.

Regardless, a change of up to 1/2 to 1 inch or more on the L-bracket is in no way a fine tune when the washers move the adjustment only a fraction of that at a time per washer.
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Old 08-22-2017, 09:03 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctbruce View Post
My clarifications are in parenthesis to show that they were my opinion. The Bold was added for the pertinent parts to point out the information. The washers are used for permanent setting and the L brackets are adjustable on a temporary basis for changes in loads to make it easier to adjust than taking the head apart to add/remove washers. This is bore out in Equalizers videos, especaially this one at around the 530 mark.

Since you suggested to call Equalizer in the morning, I will. But be assured, you can do with your hitch whatever you think is great. Move your L brackets all over the place.

Regardless, a change of up to 1/2 to 1 inch or more on the L-bracket is in no way a fine tune when the washers move the adjustment only a fraction of that at a time per washer.
Then try an experiment. Add or remove a couple washers. Then drive around. Put the washers back. Then lower your bracket two holes. Drive around again. I assure you, that you will experience two completely different rides.

The washers may seem insignificant, but there are physics at work there.

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Old 08-23-2017, 10:19 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmaxmutt View Post
Then try an experiment. Add or remove a couple washers. Then drive around. Put the washers back. Then lower your bracket two holes. Drive around again. I assure you, that you will experience two completely different rides.

The washers may seem insignificant, but there are physics at work there.

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I'd like to put this to rest once and for all. Here is the message that I sent to Progressive this morning concerning the function of the washers:

Message I have a question about the set up. Which provides gross and fine tuning? The L-brackets or the washers? I believe it is the washers that are used for fine tuning the set up. Your help appreciated.

Here is the answer that I received from them concerning the washers:

Chip,

Thanks for your email. You are spot on. The washers provide a fine tuning adjustment for the hitch, while adjusting the L brackets are for a short-term fix if you’re stuck on the road. Normally, the bars should be running parallel with the trailer frame.

Thanks,

Jacen C.
Customer Support
Office (800) 478-5578 x124
www.equalizerhitch.comwww.fastwaytrailer.com

cid:EBB9759A-BA5E-491C-82D1-F982CD49D645

I thnik that I'll skip the suggested experiment and just take the answer from the company that makes the Equalizer.
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Old 08-23-2017, 02:28 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by ctbruce View Post
I'd like to put this to rest once and for all. Here is the message that I sent to Progressive this morning concerning the function of the washers:

Message I have a question about the set up. Which provides gross and fine tuning? The L-brackets or the washers? I believe it is the washers that are used for fine tuning the set up. Your help appreciated.

Here is the answer that I received from them concerning the washers:

Chip,

Thanks for your email. You are spot on. The washers provide a fine tuning adjustment for the hitch, while adjusting the L brackets are for a short-term fix if you’re stuck on the road. Normally, the bars should be running parallel with the trailer frame.

Thanks,

Jacen C.
Customer Support
Office (800) 478-5578 x124
www.equalizerhitch.comwww.fastwaytrailer.com

cid:EBB9759A-BA5E-491C-82D1-F982CD49D645

I thnik that I'll skip the suggested experiment and just take the answer from the company that makes the Equalizer.
I am guessing we are not done yet. I called them on the way home. The customer service rep (not an engineer) tried to answer my questions. He initially said what you said.

I questioned if you would fine tune a hitch prior to major tuning? I cannot think of a single operation in the world that works that way. He didn't have a direct answer.

I questioned which moves more weight a washer or a hole? He didn't have an answer to that at all.

He did talk about the way "he sets up a hitch". I had him read the manual. He read the specific words in the manual that we both pointed to. He said he would have to go find out why it says that. He also verified the E2 manual says the same thing.
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Old 08-23-2017, 02:34 PM   #45
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Correct me if I'm wrong. The bottom line on this thread is to help C424 get his hitch set up properly. I think it's agreed he should start over using the manual and tech support as needed. At this point I don't think it really matters which is fine and which is gross tuning. It is fun reading the banter though. Popcorn.


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Old 08-23-2017, 02:35 PM   #46
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I certainly didn't mean to stir the pot but my bars are not parallel. I need to do some adjustments to get them there and I need to start from scratch. Going off measurements from the front of the truck it is fine. Also I can't lower the L bracket any further and it appears to be set up correctly since it's a top mount hitch. I'm wondering if I need to flip the L bracket mount like it shows for a bottom mount receiver. I certainly don't want to stray from the manual though. My only other thought to get them parallel is raise the ball.


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Old 08-23-2017, 02:38 PM   #47
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Correct me if I'm wrong. The bottom line on this thread is to help C424 get his hitch set up properly. I think it's agreed he should start over using the manual and tech support as needed. At this point I don't think it really matters which is fine and which is gross tuning. It is fun reading the banter though. Popcorn.


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True that!

Quote:
Originally Posted by C424 View Post
I certainly didn't mean to stir the pot but my bars are not parallel. I need to do some adjustments to get them there and I need to start from scratch. Going off measurements from the front of the truck it is fine. Also I can't lower the L bracket any further and it appears to be set up correctly since it's a top mount hitch. I'm wondering if I need to flip the L bracket mount like it shows for a bottom mount receiver. I certainly don't want to stray from the manual though. My only other thought to get them parallel is raise the ball.


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The initial point throughout was start from scratch and follow the manual. It isn't as hard as we are making it sound. The manual talks you through step-by-step. If your L bracket is at a limit, you might not have the right amount of washers in place. IIRC, you should have started with the L brackets at a point that would make the bars level.
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Old 08-23-2017, 02:42 PM   #48
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I'd love to get a hold of one of those equalizer hitches.


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Old 08-23-2017, 02:47 PM   #49
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Here's a picture of my TT tongue and one of my L brackets. I don't know if this will help you but it might be a point of reference.


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Old 08-23-2017, 03:04 PM   #50
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Looking back at your initial pictures . . .

It looks like you are not on level ground. The trailer may (or may not) nose high, but the picture and slope makes it look that way.

Your frame bracket looks like is installed correctly.

You appear to have 4 washers installed? I think pickups normally start at 6.
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Old 08-23-2017, 03:45 PM   #51
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Just set mine Equalizer 4 pt. up. leveled trailer and measured two points on the frame. got tongue height. Then started out with the starting suggested washers and followed the steps. I was lucky I guess when everything was installed and hooked up truck went back to within 1/8 high in front trailer was about 1/16 lower in front. Felt really good on test tow. had an e2 just wasn't the same got trailer just a tad low in front and truck was 1/4 higher in front . Never could the ball height to match trailer tongue was about 1 1/2 high. Used the same shank on E4 perfect. E2 did alright and is well built but you ain`t taking my E4 unless I get a pro pride . E2 was 6washers 7 to much and 5 to little. E2 was within what manual said was acceptable but did not like the feeling it gave.
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Old 08-23-2017, 04:03 PM   #52
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Just set mine Equalizer 4 pt. up. leveled trailer and measured two points on the frame. got tongue height. Then started out with the starting suggested washers and followed the steps. I was lucky I guess when everything was installed and hooked up truck went back to within 1/8 high in front trailer was about 1/16 lower in front. Felt really good on test tow. had an e2 just wasn't the same got trailer just a tad low in front and truck was 1/4 higher in front . Never could the ball height to match trailer tongue was about 1 1/2 high. Used the same shank on E4 perfect. E2 did alright and is well built but you ain`t taking my E4 unless I get a pro pride . E2 was 6washers 7 to much and 5 to little. E2 was within what manual said was acceptable but did not like the feeling it gave.


I think that's where I am. The measurements are within range but I'm not happy with the ride. I still need to do some changing and get the bars parallel with the frame and I may like it better. I'm sure ultimately I'll end up with an equalizer but it won't be within the next few months.


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Old 08-23-2017, 04:25 PM   #53
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yep when mine came from the dealer they had 4 washers in the head, lL brackets where at different lengthens and one wasn't even straight. Getting the bars level should help. When and if you get the E4 the shank, brackets and pins are interchangeable. I just kept mine for a backup and carry an extra bracket and latch pins when I tow. Good luck
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Old 08-24-2017, 04:26 AM   #54
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Forget the rear fender measurements, they don't matter. The purpose of WD is to return the weight to the front end that is removed when hitching the trailer, not to level the tow vehicle. Get the front height where the owners manual says it needs to be.
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Old 08-24-2017, 05:05 AM   #55
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Every WDH I have ever used (that has the ball mount tilt), tilts the ball mount for "fine tuning adjustments" AFTER the bars have been set in their generally ideal "parallel-to-the-tongue" position.

The ball mount should be at 0 degrees tilt (straight up and down) and the bars should be adjusted to get you close. Then the ball mount can be tilted for that fine tuning.

Tilting the ball starts to take away ball-and-coupler range-of-motion, so keeping it as close to straight up and down is desirable. This means you want to minimize the tilt if possible. However, tilt is an option if you need to use it.

On my Reese, the bar hangers pivot so the hanger surface is always parallel with the bars... so keeping the bars parallel with the tongue is less important.

In the equalizer pics I have seen, the bar hangers seem to be fixed in place, so keeping the bars parallel with the tongue looks more important in order to keep the friction surface mating properly.


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Old 08-25-2017, 12:44 PM   #56
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I started over today and took new measurements I had to lower the ball as far down as it would go on the shank to get it even with the leveled coupler. Only had a difference of a half an inch from uncoupled to coupled without WD. I added 6 total washers and it put my front measurement almost back to exactly my uncoupled height. Checked level on the trailer and it was perfect. I didn't take it out for a tow yet but the only thing I don't like about this set up is I have to use the assist bars to get the bars onto the trailer. Seems to have a good amount of tension on them. I thought about taking one of the washers out but I don't know. That's about as parallel as I could get the bars.



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Old 08-25-2017, 01:26 PM   #57
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Looks pretty good, bars level truck and trailer level. I would do a test tow. That`s the amount of washers I had to use ,7 to much 5 to few.
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Old 08-25-2017, 01:27 PM   #58
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Looks pretty good, bars level truck and trailer level. I would do a test tow. That`s the amount of washers I had to use ,7 to much 5 to few.


Thank you sir. The ball was way to high on the original set up.


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Old 08-25-2017, 01:32 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by C424 View Post
I started over today and took new measurements I had to lower the ball as far down as it would go on the shank to get it even with the leveled coupler. Only had a difference of a half an inch from uncoupled to coupled without WD. I added 6 total washers and it put my front measurement almost back to exactly my uncoupled height. Checked level on the trailer and it was perfect. I didn't take it out for a tow yet but the only thing I don't like about this set up is I have to use the assist bars to get the bars onto the trailer. Seems to have a good amount of tension on them. I thought about taking one of the washers out but I don't know. That's about as parallel as I could get the bars.



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Use your jack to raise the back of your truck. The bars will go on easily without the cheater bar. Glad you got adjusted.

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Old 08-27-2017, 05:18 PM   #60
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It looks like you have it set up correct. Do that test tow. I have to use my tongue jack in most cases to get my bars on too. That is normal.


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