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Old 08-18-2017, 02:47 PM   #21
C424
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This is the setup. I added 2 washers to the hitch and got weights on everything. Steer axle is 3900 and drive axle is 4120. Trailer axle is 6100. It seemed to still have some bounce but maybe not as bad. Does this all look good or can it use some tweaking?


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Old 08-18-2017, 02:57 PM   #22
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I think it looks fine. Those types (chains, spring bars) of WD hitches tend to be "springy". If you went with an Equalizer or simular hitch, the springy feeling should go away. My brother just went through this same ordeal. He went from a Reese to an Equalizer. He's a much happier camper now...
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Old 08-18-2017, 03:04 PM   #23
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Personally, I've found that the ride always seems to be best if you spring bars are as possible to parallel to the trailer frame.
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Old 08-20-2017, 04:58 PM   #24
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On the trip home it seemed to be a little spring. I may be making to much out of it but my last truck and trailer did not seem to have any bounce at all (they were both smaller but same hitch). I my add another washer, I am not sure. I would love to try the equalizer but I can not spend that right now.
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Old 08-20-2017, 05:13 PM   #25
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On the trip home it seemed to be a little spring. I may be making to much out of it but my last truck and trailer did not seem to have any bounce at all (they were both smaller but same hitch). I my add another washer, I am not sure. I would love to try the equalizer but I can not spend that right now.


Your TT seems a little high in the front. I think if you can lower the hitch head (not tilt) so it's level when loaded for a trip it might be a little better. Good luck.


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Old 08-20-2017, 05:19 PM   #26
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Your TT seems a little high in the front. I think if you can lower the hitch head (not tilt) so it's level when loaded for a trip it might be a little better. Good luck.


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Slide the ball mount down a notch on the shank? Will I need to readjust the washers, the L brackets are already as low as they can go?


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Old 08-20-2017, 05:35 PM   #27
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Need help with hitch

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Slide the ball mount down a notch on the shank? Will I need to readjust the washers, the L brackets are already as low as they can go?


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I took a closer look at your picture. If you lower the head, the WD bars would be even less parallel to the frame. I'd find a good level lot and start taking all the measurements again with the TT loaded, level and unhitched. If the hitch is right then maybe the bounce is a problem with the truck. Maybe the shocks aren't stiff enough. If your FW tank is in front of the TT wheels maybe filling it will help. Good luck.


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Old 08-22-2017, 02:38 AM   #28
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The bars do not look parallel and the camper appears to be sitting nose high. I would take it to a level spot, remeasure everything and start over. Your L brackets may need to come down a hole.

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Old 08-22-2017, 02:59 PM   #29
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On my first TT the dealer installed the attaching pieces for the L brackets incorrectly. If your L brackets are all the way down that may be an issue for you too. Fixing that may allow you to adjust your bars properly and possibly the hitch head.


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Old 08-22-2017, 04:20 PM   #30
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On my first TT the dealer installed the attaching pieces for the L brackets incorrectly. If your L brackets are all the way down that may be an issue for you too. Fixing that may allow you to adjust your bars properly and possibly the hitch head.


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I think they are all the way down. I guess I need to see how else they could be attached because I think they are on the same as the old trailer. This trailer is taller than the old trailer but the brackets are in the same hole.


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Old 08-22-2017, 04:24 PM   #31
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I think they are all the way down. I guess I need to see how else they could be attached because I think they are on the same as the old trailer. This trailer is taller than the old trailer but the brackets are in the same hole.


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If I do lower them to make them parallel then do I add more washers to get tension back on the bars?


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Old 08-22-2017, 04:40 PM   #32
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I would follow the directions from the manufacturer exactly in setting it up. You almost can't go wrong.

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Old 08-22-2017, 04:57 PM   #33
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There are a bunch of people from TX on this forum. Maybe you can hook up with someone local and together you can work through this hitch issue. Starting over on everything and following the directions exactly may be the only way to get this figured out. I can't remember if you have actually talked to the vendor but some of these companies are very responsive.


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Old 08-22-2017, 05:07 PM   #34
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There are a bunch of people from TX on this forum. Maybe you can hook up with someone local and together you can work through this hitch issue. Starting over on everything and following the directions exactly may be the only way to get this figured out. I can't remember if you have actually talked to the vendor but some of these companies are very responsive.


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I think starting over is the way to go. Doesn't seem like it should be this difficult to set up.


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Old 08-22-2017, 05:14 PM   #35
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I think starting over is the way to go. Doesn't seem like it should be this difficult to set up.


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It isn't difficult, but it takes some time and you cannot just skip to the brackets and expect good results. The washers are a step near the beginning. The L brackets are for fine adjustments at the end.
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Old 08-22-2017, 05:26 PM   #36
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It isn't difficult, but it takes some time and you cannot just skip to the brackets and expect good results. The washers are a step near the beginning. The L brackets are for fine adjustments at the end.
On my equalizer, the opposite is true: L brackets for initial close setup and the washers for fine tuning. YMMV, but that is how mine works.

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Old 08-22-2017, 05:32 PM   #37
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On my equalizer, the opposite is true: L brackets for initial close setup and the washers for fine tuning. YMMV, but that is how mine works.

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I am going to have to suggest you read your installation manual again. The L brackets on an Equal-i-zer are for minor adjustments in loading and cargo placement differences.
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Old 08-22-2017, 06:06 PM   #38
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I am going to have to suggest you read your installation manual again. The L brackets on an Equal-i-zer are for minor adjustments in loading and cargo placement differences.
Thanks, I appreciate the input but that is not what the manual says. Here it is from the Equalizer website:

If the hitch is transferring too little or too much weight you must make adjustments to the hitch setup. For changes during the initial setup we recommend adding or removing spacer washers first to try and keep the spring arms parallel with the trailer frame. (Minor adjustments) This gives you more adjustment options later if needed, and may also reduce some noise.
Once the maximum (8) or minimum (4) number of spacer washers has been reached, further adjustments can be made by raising or lowering the L‑brackets. (Major adjustments) Minor adjustments later for changes in loading can usually be done by moving only the L-brackets.

To be fair, is does say that after the WD is set, then you can make minor temporary adjustments by just moving the L brackets. That is for differing loads, not for setting the WD.
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Old 08-22-2017, 06:52 PM   #39
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To be fair, you put your own understanding and words in there. It does not say that.

Feel free to call Progress to gain a clearer understanding of what the manual states.

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Old 08-22-2017, 07:37 PM   #40
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The actual quote from the manual is:

"For changes during the initial setup we recommend adding or removing spacer washers first to try and keep the spring arms parallel with the trailer frame. This gives you more adjustment options later if needed, and may also reduce some noise.

Once the maximum (8) or minimum (4) number of spacer washers has been reached, further adjustments can be made by raising or lowering the L‑brackets. Minor adjustments later for changes in loading can usually be done by moving only the L-brackets."
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