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Old 06-26-2015, 10:45 PM   #1
CJW8
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New Raptor 332TS owners

We are the new owners of a 2015 Keystone Raptor 332TS. We looked at a lot of toy haulers and this one had the floor plan we liked the best. It also met my weight requirements for towing. Below is my assessment after owning for a week. We haven’t even been camping in it yet. We have just been getting it set up for use. My main requirements were have at least a 12 foot garage and be at or under 16500 GVWR.

Fit and finish: Pretty good. I consider this a upper middle end 5th wheel toy hauler. The upper end we looked at was the Grand Design Models at about 15 K more money. Some things look very nice and some things were just ok. This is an aluminum framed RV with sandwiched foam insulation so it is difficult to find an exterior wall stud. Some things that were screwed into the interior wall material such as the 12 inch high diamond plate that lines the garage have come loose already since the wall skin isn’t strong enough for a screw unless you hit an aluminum stud. I plan on putting expanding anchors on those that have come loose already. The trim is nice and well fitted. I have added a couple of shelves already in areas that should have had them from the get go. One is the middle cabinet above the island and the other is the bathroom vanity. This was needed for linen storage.

Electronics: It came with a Samsung main TV, DVD player and Soundbar and the bedroom and garage and bedroom have off brand TV’s but they seem to work well. The head unit in the main cabin is a Sony. So some quality gear and some no name brand stuff. No complaints. A nice feature is the garage TV lifts out of its mount and can be installed in the pass through storage area for an outdoor TV. It is pre wired for satellite TV and has a conventional RV antenna that received several excellent quality digital channels at my home location. I have also installed a Xantrex 2000 watt SW inverter. I have ordered two ea. 15 amp Xantrex transfer switches to drive all the outlets except the GCFI’s. This will allow us to watch TV, make coffee, run toaster or microwave briefly without running the generator.

Converter: It has a WFCO 98100 100 amp converter and WFCO load center. The load center is well done. The WFCO converter has some nice features but it is still a WFCO. It has power factor correction and a boost button which forces it into boost for 4 hours. Two problems here. WFCO’s are known for being stuck in absorption mode (13.6 volts) and never going to boost and float mode. I know, I tried for months to get another one to work. It also needs to be installed with fat wire (#6 at least) and close to the batteries. It has # 6 wire but there is at east of 5-8 feet of literally wadded up wire at the converter and the converter is installed in a place where you cannot reach the boost button without emptying the pass through storage area and removing a bulkhead panel for access. Very poor workmanship and not thought out. To rectify this, I have unplugged the WFCO and installed a Xantrex True charge II 40 amp close to the batteries. In the future, I will install a hatch in the pass through storage bulkhead so you can access the boost button.

Batteries: The dealer installed only one Group 24 battery. This is typical. The camper has a very nice battery compartment with slots for three batteries. I had two one year old group 27 batteries so I was going to occupy the empty slots with them. Guess what? A group 27 will not fit the slots!!! What were they thinking? This is a boon docking trailer for goodness sake. Three Group 24’s is squat for capacity. I am so disappointed here.

Air conditioning: It has two ducted AC’s and I believe they are 15K with a single two zone thermostat. It took me a couple of days to figure out how to cool the dang thing down. It was over 100 here and I couldn’t get below 80 in the main compartment. Finally I adjusted the baffle in the rear AC which was leaking some. I opened two ceiling hatches some to let heat escape. I relocated the master bedroom sensor which was in the direct path of the bedroom vent, causing it to short cycle. I also set the thermostats a little cooler than I really wanted. It was an icebox in there today (68) and it was 103 here at mid day. I was unhappy but am now satisfied. Learning curve.

Tires: Tires are China bombs. I’ll be using this thing in a single location for up to a year so I’ll let them rot off there and then I’ll replace them. I hope they last the 10 hours it takes me to get it there. I have no personal experience with these tires but have read a lot of horror stories. On my last RV I ran LT all terrain (AT) tires with never a problem.

Hydraulic leveling system: So far I love it. It levels with the push of a button. It remembers the connect/disconnect location and it will raise one side enough for tire change. Time will tell.

Solar: It is not pre-wired for solar but I have scoped it out and plan to add 400 watts in the future. I had this much on my previous RV and it was sufficient. The roof real estate could easily hold 2000 watts!

Central Vacuum: So far during the setup and modifications this has been very handy.

This is it so far and we haven’t even got it out of the yard! The Microwave and the Fireplace were DOA during the walk through. The dealer has scheduled replacements. This isn’t the dealers or even Keystone’s fault and it will be fixed before we can use it in a month from now.

So far I am liking it and I will add more after we get a chance to use it.
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Old 06-27-2015, 03:58 AM   #2
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Old 06-27-2015, 10:13 PM   #3
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We just got our's not long ago as well and have been in it for almost two weeks.

I couldn't wait and had to get rid of the tires, installed the Maxis and now if I feel like going a little further away than we are I'll feel confident.

Also the stock bed didn't work for us at all, we tried but couldn't hack it and we motorcycle tent camp with air pads and still couldn't stand the bed. I put a RV King sleep number in last week and it's been great so far.

Our also had a Winegard RoadTrip Mission satellite dish on the roof that works very well.

My wife insisted on a a washer/dryer so we put in a splendide 2100xc, right out of the box the heating element didn't work but one phone call and they shipped a new element out and it took me 20 minutes to replace.

I also have had to tighten the garage diamond plate here and there.

Now i just have to see what the issue is with the rear awning LED's and we'll be set.

Other than these few things we have had zero issues with anything else and that's with two small kids jumping around everywhere.

Congrats on the new camper!
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Old 06-29-2015, 01:32 PM   #4
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Great right up on your new 332TS. I've had mine for a couple of months now and just finished up our first long weekend using it. So far I am very happy with the trailer but have had a few issues to work through as should always be expected with a new RV.

As for the batteries I was able to get 3 group 27 Universal AGM batteries into the trays but it was not easy. It took some cutting, foam sealer removal, and a bit of foul languege to get them in. One big benefit of sealed AGMs is you can tip them on their sides, no way to get these in without turning them on there sides. The top tray is the most difficult and required cutting a notch out of the tray support on the left hand side. It wasn't hard to cut with a die grinder but I wasn't all that excited about taking a cutting tool to my brand new trailer. Now that they are all in I'm very happy with the setup but as you stated it is a big fail on Keystones part for essentially blocking access to the trays with the minimum size door.

The biggest issue I've had so far with trailer is the automatic power transfer switch. On delivery the generator side would only transfer about 25% of the time. It was root caused to a sticking solenoid so Keystone sent a replacement transfer switch (the whole process for the warranty took over 5 weeks). This new one lasted less than 24 hours. While plugged into a 20 amp 120V circuit, with the fridge and battery charger being the only things putting a load on it, it just clicked off. The shore side was dead and this was at about 5 PM on a Thursday evening before we were scheduled to leave for a long weekend the next day. I ended up buying a different brand transfer switch from bestconverter.com (they are local in Nampa Idaho about 20 minutes from my house) and installing it my self the next day. Since it took 5+ weeks to get it warrantied the first time I was willing to spend the $150 to get it fixed immediately and still enjoy the weekend and know that it would be ready to go for the other trips planned in the next few weeks.
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Old 06-29-2015, 05:50 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by suddensam View Post
Great right up on your new 332TS. I've had mine for a couple of months now and just finished up our first long weekend using it. So far I am very happy with the trailer but have had a few issues to work through as should always be expected with a new RV.

As for the batteries I was able to get 3 group 27 Universal AGM batteries into the trays but it was not easy. It took some cutting, foam sealer removal, and a bit of foul languege to get them in. One big benefit of sealed AGMs is you can tip them on their sides, no way to get these in without turning them on there sides. The top tray is the most difficult and required cutting a notch out of the tray support on the left hand side. It wasn't hard to cut with a die grinder but I wasn't all that excited about taking a cutting tool to my brand new trailer. Now that they are all in I'm very happy with the setup but as you stated it is a big fail on Keystones part for essentially blocking access to the trays with the minimum size door.

The biggest issue I've had so far with trailer is the automatic power transfer switch. On delivery the generator side would only transfer about 25% of the time. It was root caused to a sticking solenoid so Keystone sent a replacement transfer switch (the whole process for the warranty took over 5 weeks). This new one lasted less than 24 hours. While plugged into a 20 amp 120V circuit, with the fridge and battery charger being the only things putting a load on it, it just clicked off. The shore side was dead and this was at about 5 PM on a Thursday evening before we were scheduled to leave for a long weekend the next day. I ended up buying a different brand transfer switch from bestconverter.com (they are local in Nampa Idaho about 20 minutes from my house) and installing it my self the next day. Since it took 5+ weeks to get it warrantied the first time I was willing to spend the $150 to get it fixed immediately and still enjoy the weekend and know that it would be ready to go for the other trips planned in the next few weeks.
Just curious looking at your pictures, your batteries are where my second propane tank is. Did you relocate yours somewhere else?
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Old 06-29-2015, 08:37 PM   #6
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Just curious looking at your pictures, your batteries are where my second propane tank is. Did you relocate yours somewhere else?
No, I did not relocate them. That is the front drivers side compartment. The door you see to the right of the batteries is the drivers side pass through.
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Old 06-30-2015, 05:30 AM   #7
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No, I did not relocate them. That is the front drivers side compartment. The door you see to the right of the batteries is the drivers side pass through.
Yes, the cubby that has the auto level built in it where my second tank is. My batteries are in the front in the cubby beside the generator.
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Old 06-30-2015, 06:07 AM   #8
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I ended up buying a different brand transfer switch from bestconverter.com (they are local in Nampa Idaho about 20 minutes from my house) and installing it my self the next day. Since it took 5+ weeks to get it warrantied the first time I was willing to spend the $150 to get it fixed immediately and still enjoy the weekend and know that it would be ready to go for the other trips planned in the next few weeks.

Excellent opportunity to switch out the original transfer switch with a EMS transfer switch with surge protection to protect your Raptor against issues with Shore power as well as your on board generator. Yes your generator!! And provides a remote monitor to view power status as well as error codes. Search for say ems and should bring up my installation comments
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Old 06-30-2015, 07:09 AM   #9
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Yes, the cubby that has the auto level built in it where my second tank is. My batteries are in the front in the cubby beside the generator.
It is interesting that there is a different layout for the propane tanks and batteries on the same year 332TS. Mine has the Hydraulic components in the forward passanger side compartment. The propane tanks are in the front cubby next to the generator. This is the only unit I looked at that had it this way. Most of the other models I saw had it like yours with one propane tank on each side.
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Old 06-30-2015, 07:20 AM   #10
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I ended up buying a different brand transfer switch from bestconverter.com (they are local in Nampa Idaho about 20 minutes from my house) and installing it my self the next day. Since it took 5+ weeks to get it warrantied the first time I was willing to spend the $150 to get it fixed immediately and still enjoy the weekend and know that it would be ready to go for the other trips planned in the next few weeks.

Excellent opportunity to switch out the original transfer switch with a EMS transfer switch with surge protection to protect your Raptor against issues with Shore power as well as your on board generator. Yes your generator!! And provides a remote monitor to view power status as well as error codes. Search for say ems and should bring up my installation comments
I have seen your posts about the generator power. If I could have gotten a transfer switch with EMS in one day I would have gone that route. My current setup has the Surge Guard 34560 installed on the output of the transfer switch. This leaves the transfer switch exposed but the rest of the electrical system is protected from both shore power and the generator. I also installed the remote display inside just above the stereo.
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Old 06-30-2015, 05:13 PM   #11
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Here's mine.
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Old 06-30-2015, 05:18 PM   #12
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And the two batteries in front by the hydraulics. So does this mean I can't add anymore batteries?
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Old 06-30-2015, 05:33 PM   #13
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And the two batteries in front by the hydraulics. So does this mean I can't add anymore batteries?
It looks like you have plenty of room to add two or even more than two additional batteries. The issue (not problem) is finding someone to build a rack to mount the batteries above your existing battery area and yet still have access to all the batteries and the hydraulic reservoir. It looks relatively easy to do, just find someone you trust to weld/fabricate the storage rack to house the additions and keep them accessible. Wiring is simply a matter of connecting the batteries together so you get 12 volts to the original connections. You can do it with multiple 6 volt or multiple 12 volt batteries. That part would by your preference.
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Old 06-30-2015, 08:28 PM   #14
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As already mentioned you may need to figure out a rack for stacking them but it also looks like there might be room to configure the battery boxes differently and be able to fit more in the bottom layer.

Looking at both I think I like your configuration better. It looks like your setup uses the space better and leaves more options for adding battery capacity if desired. When I first looked at mine at the dealership I liked the idea of the battery racks already built in but the way it is done limits what I can do. I would have liked to have gone with 6 volt batteries but the racks in mine won't easily allow that as is. The width and height of the racks just isn't right for any of the 6 volt batteries I looked at.

Here are few more pictures of mine. I added the storage hooks for my fresh water hoses behind the propane tanks and installed the Surge Guard above the generator box.
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Old 07-01-2015, 06:31 AM   #15
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saddensam,
Mine configuration is like yours. I like your hose rack idea behind the propane tanks and I was wondering where you located your surge guard. Now I don't have to ask.

Well, I'll wear this triplet of group 24's out and then I'll consider replacing with sealed group 27's. Do you know the amp hour rating to those?
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Old 07-01-2015, 06:58 AM   #16
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Air conditioning: It has two ducted AC’s and I believe they are 15K with a single two zone thermostat. It took me a couple of days to figure out how to cool the dang thing down. It was over 100 here and I couldn’t get below 80 in the main compartment. Finally I adjusted the baffle in the rear AC which was leaking some. I opened two ceiling hatches some to let heat escape. I relocated the master bedroom sensor which was in the direct path of the bedroom vent, causing it to short cycle. I also set the thermostats a little cooler than I really wanted. It was an icebox in there today (68) and it was 103 here at mid day. I was unhappy but am now satisfied. Learning curve.

Does anyone have the instruction manual for the dual zone thermostat used in this RV. I didn't get one and the dealer couldn't locate one. A web link to the manual would be great but I have been unable to locate it. If you have one and can scan to PDF to send me would get you a beer if we ever meet on the road. Thanks!
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Old 07-01-2015, 07:57 AM   #17
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saddensam,
Mine configuration is like yours. I like your hose rack idea behind the propane tanks and I was wondering where you located your surge guard. Now I don't have to ask.

Well, I'll wear this triplet of group 24's out and then I'll consider replacing with sealed group 27's. Do you know the amp hour rating to those?
They are 100 AH each. Here is a link to the info on them. UB121000 100-AH Deep Cycle
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Old 07-01-2015, 08:02 AM   #18
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Air conditioning: It has two ducted AC’s and I believe they are 15K with a single two zone thermostat. It took me a couple of days to figure out how to cool the dang thing down. It was over 100 here and I couldn’t get below 80 in the main compartment. Finally I adjusted the baffle in the rear AC which was leaking some. I opened two ceiling hatches some to let heat escape. I relocated the master bedroom sensor which was in the direct path of the bedroom vent, causing it to short cycle. I also set the thermostats a little cooler than I really wanted. It was an icebox in there today (68) and it was 103 here at mid day. I was unhappy but am now satisfied. Learning curve.

Does anyone have the instruction manual for the dual zone thermostat used in this RV. I didn't get one and the dealer couldn't locate one. A web link to the manual would be great but I have been unable to locate it. If you have one and can scan to PDF to send me would get you a beer if we ever meet on the road. Thanks!
I'll second that request. I can't figure out how to get just one zone to come on, I always get both. Also should the fan in the AC unit cycle off once the set temperature is reached?
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Old 07-01-2015, 10:03 AM   #19
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Here is the link for the Dometic "comfort zone" (dual zone) thermostat. I think this is the one you have, if not, post the name/model number and I'll find the correct manual.

Essentially you set each "zone" temperature and then the thermostat does the rest... (at least that's what they say). The fans will run all the time if your fan switch is in HI or LO. If it's in AUTO, then the fans should run at high speed until the temp is 4* from the setting, then switch to low speed until the temperature setting is reached. Once the temp is reached, the entire system should shut down until the temperature rises above the thermostat temp setting, at which time the fan will come on followed about 5 seconds later by the compressor for the zone where the temp has risen. If both temp monitors are calling for cooling, then zone 1 will start, then once it's running, zone 2 will start.

The fan setting, HI or LO will determine the "constant speed" of the fan (and will operate the fan as long as the thermostat is turned on. If the thermostat is in AUTO, then the fan will start, stop and operate on either HI or LO, depending on the temperature setting of the thermostat and/or the temperature difference between the monitor temp and the thermostat set temp.

OK, now even I'm confused.... here's the link to the manual: http://www.dometic.com/QBankFiles3/E...nual_17586.pdf
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Old 07-01-2015, 10:36 AM   #20
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Here is the link for the Dometic "comfort zone" (dual zone) thermostat. I think this is the one you have, if not, post the name/model number and I'll find the correct manual.

Essentially you set each "zone" temperature and then the thermostat does the rest... (at least that's what they say). The fans will run all the time if your fan switch is in HI or LO. If it's in AUTO, then the fans should run at high speed until the temp is 4* from the setting, then switch to low speed until the temperature setting is reached. Once the temp is reached, the entire system should shut down until the temperature rises above the thermostat temp setting, at which time the fan will come on followed about 5 seconds later by the compressor for the zone where the temp has risen. If both temp monitors are calling for cooling, then zone 1 will start, then once it's running, zone 2 will start.

The fan setting, HI or LO will determine the "constant speed" of the fan (and will operate the fan as long as the thermostat is turned on. If the thermostat is in AUTO, then the fan will start, stop and operate on either HI or LO, depending on the temperature setting of the thermostat and/or the temperature difference between the monitor temp and the thermostat set temp.

OK, now even I'm confused.... here's the link to the manual: http://www.dometic.com/QBankFiles3/E...nual_17586.pdf
Thanks for the info but that is not the model we have. Although, I think I finally did find a manual. It looks like it is the RV Comfort.ZC by Airxcel.
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