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Old 12-06-2018, 04:40 PM   #21
Firewall
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Please make sure your smoke detector is working properly. Be careful with the space heaters, keep them a safe distance from any combustibles.

Above all stay safe (and warm)
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Old 12-06-2018, 06:50 PM   #22
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As for straw or hay bales, they will attract mice, but more important, they will hold moisture and increase the chances of mold under the trailer. If I were you, I'd get some 1/2" sheets of rigid foam (the pink stuff from Lowes) and cut it to fit against the underside of the J-wrap (aluminum bottom fender) and either lay a 2x4 on the ground to tack the bottom to hold it in place or use stakes to secure it to the ground. Leave a small opening (3"x3") on each end of the trailer to help get some ventilation under the trailer. If you want, hinge the two cutouts so you can close them on especially cold nights and open them when it warms up. You might consider a 75 watt incandescent bulb on a drop light under the trailer, hanging under the holding tanks.

As for the front pass through, if the access doors are insulated, a drop light there should be enough to keep the water tank from freezing.

I'd seriously rethink the hay bales. They will "work to block wind" but the cons outweigh the pros and rigid foam (the pink stuff) is likely to be cheaper or so close to the same price that it wouldn't make much difference in price. Plus, if you do use hay bales, be extra super overly cautious about putting any heat under the trailer.
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Old 12-07-2018, 04:32 AM   #23
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Will nix the straw bales. I think what I've done so far should be working ok. Yes I have a smoke detector and it works fine.
Will see what I can do about the foam. And go from there.
It's suppose to snow by sunday. So I may have another host of issues.

Thank you for all the post replies.
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Old 12-07-2018, 08:11 AM   #24
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If you could just use the foam on the windward side it would help greatly.
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Old 12-07-2018, 08:38 AM   #25
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With the snow coming, if you can get the foam "propped up around the trailer" before the snow falls, it will provide a "seal around the bottom" to help hold it in place. With the size of your trailer, it likely wouldn't take much more than 5 or 6 sheets of foam to do the entire trailer. If you need to do it in stages, then I agree with Danny, do the "windward side" first and try to include the front/back of the trailer with that side if possible.
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Old 12-07-2018, 03:57 PM   #26
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I bought the foam , have a guy coming out Sunday morning at 8 am to skirt it.
And it's suppose to start snowing like the devil on sunday.

I'll get this done , one way or another.

Thank you for the advice, greatly appreciated .
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Old 12-07-2018, 04:11 PM   #27
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Glenda

We have the same model as you. We have infiltration through the laundry chute from the pass through. Unless your pass through hatch doors seal better than ours, you might consider something (foam caulking?) to minimize that. We camped in 28 degree weather with the furnace going full blast to keep the underbelly somewhat heated, but nothing like what you are going through. We also disconnected the water hose to prevent it from freezing. Good luck and stay safe.
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Old 12-07-2018, 04:15 PM   #28
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Had an Rv. Repair guy come out , he said put 2 heat lamps underneath , I did , and it will be skirted Sunday morning.
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Old 12-07-2018, 09:25 PM   #29
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If you have any of that foam left over, consider putting some under the mattress (over the pass through) to help insulate that area. Also, put a strip at the head of the bed, where the mattress butts up against the front wall. That will stop almost all condensation between the mattress and the trailer wall. Do the same for the dinette and any cushions that butt up against the trailer side walls. If you don't have any left over foam, then pull the cushions about an inch or so away from the sidewalls and pull the mattress down about 2 or 3 inches so you get some air circulation in those areas. That will prevent condensation and mold growth in those areas

Consider some of the "shrink wrap" storm windows on the larger windows in the trailer. Single pane windows have an R value of "0" which means all they do is stop the wind, but they don't help retain any heat. The "shrink wrap" storm windows will make a difference in the amount of propane you use, but sitting next to one of the windows, with the storm in place, you'll notice a significant difference in how cold it feels.... Also, check the slide seals. If there are air leaks, you can use "foam pipe insulation" to seal the slide top and sides. Pull the slide in slightly, tuck a 3/4" soft foam pipe insulation (the gray stuff from Lowe's) behind the slide flanges and then extend the slide. It's sort of like putting a rolled up towel at the foot of a door to stop air leaks...

Any other questions, just ask and good luck staying warm !!!!!
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Old 12-08-2018, 06:39 AM   #30
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The condensation was coming from under the front frame in back of the 2 propane tanks. I think it was from the cold snap that came out of Canada.
Plus I had placed my mini space heater in there to keep it warm in there.
Repairman said remove it. And get heat under trailer.

It's warmed up , but is suppose to snow by sunday.
I am having it skirted Sunday morning at 8 am.

The Rv. Repairman showed me where to place the 2 heat lamps ,and I did so underneath the trailer.

Hopefully I solved my problem.

Never any problem with mold formation. (yet)

I can buy some small pieces of pink foam and put it "INSIDE" to block cold from coming in from the slide out windows.
Right now I have small towels clamped on over them to keep heat in.

I think I solved my problems for now.
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Old 12-08-2018, 11:27 AM   #31
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I live in Minnesota, and used a Travel trailer as a cabin of sorts in the winter for winter recreation. My use was weekend, no facilities, my unit was 'winterized' for water and storage tank use. I found that insulating the windows helped immensely to heat it, and cover the roof vents. I used the shrinking window treatment that you shrink with a hair dryer, it worked well. Also, a pillow stuffed in the roof vent enclosure. We peed in a bucket with a bag in it, and threw it out in the cold to freeze. We carried in water.
I'm not saying that you have to go to that extreme, at least for very long, but,
If you expect temperatures to stay below freezing during the day, you should consider winterizing your unit til the temps get warmer, and rough it a little. A few gallons of RV anti-freeze is far cheaper than replacing pipes and valves.
Sorry to hear your having trouble.. Mother Nature is being a b**ch this year.
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Old 12-08-2018, 11:38 AM   #32
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I think all my problems are solved. 2 heat lamps under trailer
Where the Rv. Repairman said to place them.
Trailer being fully skirted tomorrow morning. Will put foam inside the slide out windows. Right now I have 3 bath towel's clamped on to the top curtain rods. That's helping alot. I'll double check the slide out rubber seals. Sorry if that's the wrong word term.
I think I'm making headway.
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Old 12-13-2018, 11:19 AM   #33
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Your Premier has a sealed undercarriage. If you have the cold weather option your furnace will hear the undercarriage. But you have to have it on prior to the freeze.
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Old 12-13-2018, 11:34 AM   #34
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Problems solved. Thankfully. 2 heat lamps under the trailer.
Front and back. No broken pipes.
Trailer is skirted , and has black plastic taped over skirting.
So I am good to go.

I am going through propane pretty quickly. 2 Tanks every 4-5 days.
I am sure that is normal in cold weather. Above freezing today 12/13 . Trace amount of snow is melting fast.

Thank you to everyone for all the advice and suggestions. Greatly appreciated.
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Old 12-13-2018, 02:42 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenda Clark View Post
Problems solved. Thankfully. 2 heat lamps under the trailer.
Front and back. No broken pipes.
Trailer is skirted , and has black plastic taped over skirting.
So I am good to go.

I am going through propane pretty quickly. 2 Tanks every 4-5 days.
I am sure that is normal in cold weather. Above freezing today 12/13 . Trace amount of snow is melting fast.

Thank you to everyone for all the advice and suggestions. Greatly appreciated.
You might talk to the local propane company about a 300# tank and hookup to the regulator. Many long-term RVers do this arrangement and, besides, the propane truck comes to you to fill!

Just my two cents,
Ron
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Old 12-13-2018, 02:48 PM   #36
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Great idea. Thanks for suggestion. I think there is one locally I could call.
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Old 12-13-2018, 08:37 PM   #37
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Is there any way that you can hook onto that trailer and head south? It was 71 degrees in Phoenix today... jeff
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Old 12-14-2018, 08:15 AM   #38
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Money is the object Jeff. Wish I could though.
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