Dometic refrigerator temps

[gearhead]

Dometic RM1350 in a slide. It has a history of issues. We had the entire cooling system replaced when new, it crystallized according the RV shop. We usually do our RV traveling in spring or fall. Anyway....we are on the road now and have had some 90+ degree days. After a 6 hour day on the road the fridge will display around 55 degrees. It cools down to as low as 34 overnight. What is in the freezer stays frozen and the fridge section seems cool. The yogurt hasn't killed me yet.
I have procrastinated about adding additional fans. To be honest, even after looking at posts here and elsewhere, i havent found any that are exactly clear or precise about where they wired the fan.
So...what temps are others seeing? Are mine typical?

[chuckster57]

Fans do best mounted to the back of the refer below the top finned tube of the cooling unit. I would have thought with the refer being in the slide that it would have at least one already.

[Javi]

Originally Posted by gearhead

Dometic RM1350 in a slide. It has a history of issues. We had the entire cooling system replaced when new, it crystallized according the RV shop. We usually do our RV traveling in spring or fall. Anyway....we are on the road now and have had some 90+ degree days. After a 6 hour day on the road the fridge will display around 55 degrees. It cools down to as low as 34 overnight. What is in the freezer stays frozen and the fridge section seems cool. The yogurt hasn't killed me yet.
I have procrastinated about adding additional fans. To be honest, even after looking at posts here and elsewhere, i havent found any that are exactly clear or precise about where they wired the fan.
So...what temps are others seeing? Are mine typical?

First question... based on my experience... are you sure the auto switch from electric to gas is actually working...

I've had mine indicate that it switched when I unplug shore power only to later stop and check to find out the check light is lit... after I turn the fridge off and back on I can hear it light and after that it seems to work until I plug shore power back in...

So, my remedy is to check the fridge at the first rest or fuel stop as we travel...

[gearhead]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Fans do best mounted to the back of the refer below the top finned tube of the cooling unit. I would have thought with the refer being in the slide that it would have at least one already.

I think it has at least 2. I haven't cast my eyes on them though.
So if I had an additional fan, should I mount it on the wooden framing, pointed up, behind the lower vent, as opposed to behind the upper vent to aid convection?

[chuckster57]

If it has two, I would make sure they are working first. Above lower vent would be better IMO.

[gearhead]

Originally Posted by Javi

First question... based on my experience... are you sure the auto switch from electric to gas is actually working...

I've had mine indicate that it switched when I unplug shore power only to later stop and check to find out the check light is lit... after I turn the fridge off and back on I can hear it light and after that it seems to work until I plug shore power back in...

So, my remedy is to check the fridge at the first rest or fuel stop as we travel...

Will do. I have heard it running when doing a walk around at stops. But I'm probably just hearing the fan running. I think when I get home I will experiment with the AC to propane switching.....take the vent covers off and look deeper.
It seems to have a mind of its own. It's 9am eastern, maybe 64 degrees outside, and the fridge is showing 39 degrees. That's good for me. But it was 56 when we parked and set up yesterday. It was maybe 7 hours on propane.
We'll be OK like this until we get home in a few days and dig into it more.

[JRTJH]

gearhead,

You have an "airflow problem" with your trailer. It works when stationary and fails when underway (towing). The refrigerator cooling system needs airflow to remove heat from the area behind the refrigerator so that the fins can remove heat from the refrigerator cabinet (inside). I know that's a "duh, yeah" kind of statement, but keep reading.....

If, when you're towing, there is an airflow "buffeting" that pushes air into the top vent while underway, then it would serve to "overpower the fans" and make the air around the cooling fans "stagnate" and, without air movement, would be almost the same as "covering your vents so there's no airflow".

So, what to do? You might consider making a "home-made deflector" out of cardboard or out of plastic, tape it along the front vertical edge of your top vent and making another to tape to the rear vertical edge of your bottom vent. Essentially what that would do is (while you're towing) "scoop air" at the bottom and "pull air" from the top. That would overcome any buffeting and force air movement over the cooling coils.

The "scoops" wouldn't have to be big, a 16" x 3" piece of "stuff" that sits even at the edge and "rises" 1/2" over the edge of the vent surface would provide significant "scoop effect" at 60 MPH.

Then, if you find through this "experiment" that your refrigerator stays cool, then you might look at building a "clear lexan" attachment to permanently attach to the vent, something that isn't noticeable and doesn't look as "bad" as cardboard and duct tape..... But, prototype and experiment first, eh???

[gearhead]

^^^^^now that you mention it, I have seen fridges modified like that. Lexan painted black would look semi cool.
We will be parked for another day and I'm thinking I will switch to propane tomorrow morning and be sure it is working while stationary all day.

[gearhead]

Dang I don't know. It has worked great since I posted. 34 degrees in the mornings and 41 degrees after being on the road 4-6 hours. It was on the sunny side (south) when we were eastbound and has been on the north side since. It's a stretch going down that road though. It's in the driveway now looking southwest, I'll see how that effects it.
I can hear and see it firing on gas after switching from 110V.

[B-O-B'03]

Originally Posted by Javi

First question... based on my experience... are you sure the auto switch from electric to gas is actually working...

I've had mine indicate that it switched when I unplug shore power only to later stop and check to find out the check light is lit... after I turn the fridge off and back on I can hear it light and after that it seems to work until I plug shore power back in...

So, my remedy is to check the fridge at the first rest or fuel stop as we travel...

Mine has been known to blow out, while driving down the road and an off-on cycle is required to get it going again, so I check it every stop now.

I have modified the enclosure around the burner, such that it is enclosed on 3 sides and might add a top to it as well. It definitely does not blow out as much as it used to, but one time is too many.

-Brian

[chuckster57]

It should auto relight. I think it needs 3 failures to set the check light. Every PDI, I watch the flame light and then I blow it out to test the auto feature. If yours isn't relighting automatically there's an issue.

[gearhead]

I would have to go look at it to see if, or where, it has a check light. I can't recall ever seeing it. I have seen an error code like "E-1" in the past when we were having real trouble with it.
I can't see the little temp window unless I open a slide so I never know what it is until we stop for the night.
Could it blow out going down the road then fire back up when we stop for the night? Or, blow out on the road and when I hook up to electricity just switch from propane to elect and not throw a code?
It's sitting out there now in the sun firing away and 42 degrees.
Might require a trip to it's second home...the shop.

[gman1966347]

This is what I put in our Montana (2013 3150rl) fridge. The instructions are absolutely flawless! Super easy to install. The instructions differ with the model # Therefore they will have instructions specific to your model on line! If I can do it anyone can. Took about 30-45 min for install. Could be done faster just took my time and went over everything two to three times! I highly recommend it!! Good luck!
https://smartrvproducts.com/works/

[gearhead]

Thanks. I'll look into that.

[chuckster57]

I use a fan that operates on 2 D cell batteries and sits in the drip tray. Any air circulation is better than nothing.

[Javi]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I use a fan that operates on 2 D cell batteries and sits in the drip tray. Any air circulation is better than nothing.

X2 surprisingly they really help.

Javi

[Steve S]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I use a fan that operates on 2 D cell batteries and sits in the drip tray. Any air circulation is better than nothing.

X 3, it's amazing what a difference a little fan will do. I've been thinking about hooking it in directly to the constant power side of the fridge light.

[gman1966347]

Here is a video that I found on youtube to give you all an idea of the unit. I had two different styles of those "D" cell battery units. One, being like a "squirrel cage" style and the other a four blade style. You guys are right, they both do help. But after replacing those a few times and taking the chance on that smart rv product fridge fan, I don't even think twice about it!! I had to actually turn my setting down on my fridge because it was freezing things up! It is now comparable to the cooling of our fridge in the house!

[gearhead]

[QUOTE=chuckster57;239063]I use a fan that operates on 2 D cell batteries and sits in the drip tray. Any air circulation is better than nothing.[/QUOTE
Yeah, I've got one of those too.

[mfifield01]

I just added a fan to the back side of my unit. It seems to stay consistently around 34, but it's not that hot out yet. I'm hoping the fan will help out more in the 100 degree summer days.