Hot water tank problem?

[On_THE_ROAD_AGAIN]

I noticed my hot water quickly turns warm in a matter of minutes. This is when I have it set to the electrical system. If I change it to the Gas it will get hot and maintain it. Has anyone heard of this?
I took it in to a dealer and they said they tested the temp and it is at 130 degrees. They did admit they did not test it for a time period. Just when they first turned it on.

Thanks

[JRTJH]

Most water heaters in RV's, just like in houses will "recover the water" faster using propane or natural gas than electricity. If you go to Lowe's website and compare the recovery rate of a 30 gallon electric vs a 30 gallon gas water heater, you'll see that the gas heater will provide significantly more water at any specific temperature rise. As an example, one model 40 gallon Whirlpool gas water heater is rated at 40 gallons per hour at 90F temp rise while a similar size electric model is rated at 20.3 gallons per hour at the same 90F rating.

Most 6 gallon gas/electric water heaters in "relatively new" trailers are called "quick recovery" and can provide around 16 gallons of "hot water" an hour. How "hot" that water is, is largely determined by the "incoming water temperature" and the BTU's you can add to the water as it passes through the water heater. If the incoming water is 60F, and you can add enough "heat" to raise the temperature 50 degrees, you'll have water exiting the heater at about 110F. If the incoming water is 40F, adding the same 50F temp rise, the output will only be around 90F, so your shower will be less "comfortable" if you stand in it for the same number of minutes. Keep in mind that the average RV showerhead provides a 2 GPM flow, so if you're mixing the water "half hot/half cold" and you've got 16 gallons of hot water per hour (6 gallons and a touch in the heater) at the end of about 3 or 4 minutes, you're going to be "starting to feel the chill"......

Most Atwood and Suburban water heaters are "rated" using both the gas and electric systems, so that means, in the case of the "16 gallons per hour model", to get that amount of hot water, you'd need to use both the electric element and the propane burner.

It's normal for the water to get "cool" much faster on electric than on propane, but for the best performance, use both......

[fla-gypsy]

Run both heat sources when demand will be heavy. LP always heats faster

[On_THE_ROAD_AGAIN]

Update. I had the dealer take a look at it and they found the thermostat crapped out after a few minutes. I am taking it out this weekend so I will see if that fixed the problem. I think somewhere the hot cold water is mixing. On a brighter note, I am going to try and use both (gas and 110) and see if that helps.

[denverpilot]

On the Road...

Just a thought...

Make sure your winterization cross-flow bypass valve between hot and cold isn't open.

[On_THE_ROAD_AGAIN]

Sorry it took me so long to get back and tell you how the weekend went.
In a nut shell..not good
On the second day we noticed there was water on the floor coming from under the kitchen cabinets, after removing pots and pans we noticed a wall not fully screwed back on and behind it was the hot water tank. There is a nipple (not sure what it is called) that comes out of the back of the hot water tank that then connects to the hot water line. This part has threads on both ends. Bad thing is this part is plastic and we found it has a steady dripping from it. I think they took it out trying to find the no hot water problem and when they put it back it in it drips. I took it out and put teflon on it but it still leaks. I have been trying to find a metal part to replace the plastic one but everyone looks at me like I am stupid. Maybe I am..any ideas on what I need