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Old 11-06-2019, 01:34 PM   #1
Yakburger
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Control panel for stabilizing systm on 22RBPR

Anyone know the location of the control panel for the Norco 5.1 stabilizing system on my camper? I've looked but can't find it. The stabilizer has no power and the dealer said it was likely a fuse inside the panel. Any help would be appreciated. I'll keep looking but I'll check back later to see if I had any hits on this thread.

Thanks,
Rob
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Old 11-06-2019, 03:28 PM   #2
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For our trailer, which uses the Ground Control 3.0 system, the control board is in the little cubby which also contains the water pump. Might be the same on your trailer.
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Old 11-08-2019, 09:39 AM   #3
sonofcy
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Originally Posted by Yakburger View Post
Anyone know the location of the control panel for the Norco 5.1 stabilizing system on my camper? I've looked but can't find it. The stabilizer has no power and the dealer said it was likely a fuse inside the panel. Any help would be appreciated. I'll keep looking but I'll check back later to see if I had any hits on this thread.

Thanks,
Rob
In general, the fuses or resettable breakers are usually near the battery. You may need a bigger fuse/resettable or non-resettable breaker. If it's like mine, it wioll look something like the following

https://www.amazon.ca/Bussmann-CBP-5...25SXQVHKDEZ599
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Old 11-08-2019, 07:33 PM   #4
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In general, the fuses or resettable breakers are usually near the battery. You may need a bigger fuse/resettable or non-resettable breaker. If it's like mine, it wioll look something like the following

https://www.amazon.ca/Bussmann-CBP-5...25SXQVHKDEZ599
Thanks for the info. I see the red power line from the BAL stabilizer/tongue jack feeds to one of these (it has a removable cover on it) and a larger red power line (supposedly from the battery) connected to the two terminals. Can these circuit breakers trip or blow? Do I need to test the terminal that goes to the stabilizer to see if it has power? Any help on this would help.
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Old 11-08-2019, 07:39 PM   #5
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I've added a photo that shows these circuit breakers mounted to the frame. The one I'm talking about it on the far left.
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Old 11-08-2019, 08:27 PM   #6
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Thanks for the info. I see the red power line from the BAL stabilizer/tongue jack feeds to one of these (it has a removable cover on it) and a larger red power line (supposedly from the battery) connected to the two terminals. Can these circuit breakers trip or blow? Do I need to test the terminal that goes to the stabilizer to see if it has power? Any help on this would help.
Yes, they trip or blow depending on if the device is a resettable breaker or just a fuse. As you suggest, put the blacklead of your VOM on the battery negative or the RV frame and the red lead on the suspect breaker first on the post with the battery attached which should read about 12VDC, then move the red lead to the other breaker post. If it reads 12VDC then the breaker is OK, if not it has tripped. At this point you need to remove the battery power so you can examine the breaker safely. If it is resettable, there should be some sort of reset button ow whatever. Very often, these breakers are undersized, so if this is a 30A breaker get a 50 if a 50 get an 80 and so on. Things like battery health, and temperature will change the amount of current the motor will draw. If you only have the dealer installed battery there is a reasonable chance it is toast. You might want to look into getting a pair of Trojan T105's if you are doing more than weekend camping. Key point is NEVER letting the batteries drop below 50%, get a Bogart Trimetric TM-2030-RV or similar as long as it uses a shunt.
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Old 11-09-2019, 06:08 AM   #7
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I've added a photo that shows these circuit breakers mounted to the frame. The one I'm talking about it on the far left.
They look like auto resetting fuses. They will "trip" under high current, then cool down and reset. I don't see an age on your unit so the following may or may not be pertinent.

Disconnect the battery at the battery terminal. Remove those breakers and inspect for corrosion. As they are mounted on the front frame they are constantly being blasted with road spray. They are inexpensive to replace and I would not 'up size" the amp rating unless you are positive that it is either the incorrect size for the application, or the recommended size from the manufacturer has changed.

The breaker is a "protection device" and therefore if it fails due to excessive current then it's doing it's job. By "up sizing" the current limiting device you defeat the purpose and create a situation where you could damage/destroy the device, overheating the wires, and potentially cause a fire.

Don't compensate, find the problem and fix it.

JMHO
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Old 11-09-2019, 07:26 AM   #8
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^^^ I agree with Marshall's comments about not "compensating with a larger amperage fuse/circuit breaker/auto-resetting fuse...

To make a comparison, an electric space heater with coils or wires that glow red to produce heat is essentially similar to your RV wiring if you take away the insulation on the RV wiring harness. Space heaters are "designed with too small wires and a too big fuse" which allows the wires to carry more current than the insulation can protect against. So, what happens is the wires get "red hot" and produce heat that's radiated into the cabin.....

In your RV wiring harness, installing a "too big fuse" to replace the protective fuse "indicated for the size wiring in the trailer" can make the underside of your trailer into a "electric space heater"... Once the insulation on the wires under your trailer is burned away, the heat produced can easily (and readily) ignite the insulation and the wood substructure. When that happens, there is precious little time to escape the burning RV.....

Never "up-size a fuse" unless you know precisely what you're doing!!!!!
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Old 11-09-2019, 09:07 AM   #9
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Thanks for all your replies. I just got this camper less than a month ago. It's a new 2019 Bullet. My dealer (who wasn't very helpful on the phone) is a four hour trip, one way plus there's a ferry ride involved that is quite expensive so I'm avoiding taking it back unless absolutely necessary. This is my second TT, the first I had for three years before trading and upgrading. I am learning as I go and other than one of the speaker wires being disconnected to the stereo I've had no problems until this happened. I took the RV out for three nights a couple of weeks ago in sub-freezing temps and it worked great, as did the BAL stabilizer. I was putting blocks under the legs with it tucked away in it's carport when it just stopped working. I was able to finish the job with the manual cranks but the lack of power to the unit really baffled me. I called Keystone yesterday but they would only recommend that I take it back to the dealer. Anyway, it's really raining here today so I'll probably get out there as soon as it dries up a little.


Thanks
Rob
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Old 11-10-2019, 05:23 PM   #10
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Well, I checked today and I do have power on both posts of the circuit breaker. Which tells me that the lack of power at the switch on the stabilizer has to be internal. Which means an appointment with Camping World service to figure out what wrong. I'm not going into the stabilizer unit myself. Darn it all. Well, these things do happen I suppose. I'll post whatever they find in a couple of weeks or however long it takes me to get the TT into the shop.
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Old 11-10-2019, 05:55 PM   #11
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Before you spend big money taking it back, waiting forever and then spending big money again, I would be looking in the front compartment for any panel that can be removed by taking out screws.

Your not going to hurt anything, and you might find out a lot more than you intended.
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Old 11-11-2019, 09:23 AM   #12
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Before you spend big money taking it back, waiting forever and then spending big money again, I would be looking in the front compartment for any panel that can be removed by taking out screws.

Your not going to hurt anything, and you might find out a lot more than you intended.

Well, I'm not sure but I bought this RV a month ago, new and was expecting this to be a warranty issue. CW does warranty work for most RV brands (or so their website says). I would take it back to the dealer but they are a $100 ferry ride and 8 hours round trip (probably twice). CW is accessible via the bridge on the north side of the island and only about 1 1/2 hours away. I'm going in to talk to them on Wednesday to see what they say.


There are four screws on the control plate that probably open the unit up and there is always that option but I didn't want to void any possible warranty by opening it myself. I'll wait until after I talk to CW and see what they have to say before going that route. It could be just a loose wire but then again it might be a circuit board....who knows?
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Old 11-15-2019, 12:15 AM   #13
Yakburger
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Well, I thought I would respond now that I have had some time to research and troubleshoot this issue. The BAL SS 5.1 stabilizing unit does not have a control panel anywhere on the RV. It gets direct power from the battery and is grounded on the body of the RV. I traced the power from the circuit breaker on the front of the RV that supplies power to the unit and I have power at the breaker on both posts. I pulled the control panel on the unit and checked that I have power on the wire harness at the connector that goes into the control panel so the problem has to be within the panel itself. I called Norco today, a little to late to get the support rep in charge of this product but I left a message and will give him a little while to call back or will be calling him tomorrow. I read on another forum that Norco is pretty good about supporting their products so I wait to see what happens next. The dealer gave me bogus information but they work with so many different products that I don't really blame them. Anyway, I report whatever I find out after the issue is resolved. Below is a photo of the unit with the issue.
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