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Old 01-28-2018, 05:53 PM   #1
ExplodingLemur
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Solar and battery upgrade questions

Hiya! We bought a 1900RD last month and I'm looking to get it ready for some off-grid time this summer. I'd like to replace the single 12V battery with a pair of 6V batteries, and add a couple of solar panels.
For the solar side of things, I'm thinking 2-3 Renogy 100W panels, and I'm interested in feedback on roof-mounted vs. portable/freestanding (set up just at camp). Also, where do folks tend to mount their charge controllers?
On the battery front, are there any particular sizes or brands of 6V batteries that are preferred, and where might I find a good double-width battery box to contain them (and attach my battery disconnect switch to)?

Thanks!
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Old 01-28-2018, 06:35 PM   #2
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Don’t rule out “Go Power”, 160W panel with 30A controller. Easy to get expansion kit for 320 total watts. Very popular brand at our dealership, easy install and pretty much everything needed is included.
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Old 01-28-2018, 06:54 PM   #3
ExplodingLemur
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Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
Don’t rule out “Go Power”, 160W panel with 30A controller.
Their charge controllers are PWM rather than MPPT.
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Old 01-28-2018, 07:25 PM   #4
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Ok. I didn’t see where you asked for a specific type of controller, I was just trying to give you another option. I don’t have or intend on getting solar for my RV, so I’m not that savvy on the finer points of various systems. I will research the two controllers, thank you for the information.
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Old 01-28-2018, 07:54 PM   #5
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We decided on the portable option. Found a Zamp 200w system for a great price. The cougar was equipped with an AE connector which made the portable connection super easy. Portables come with an integrated controller so no issues with where or how to connect. Storage is no issue, unit is very compact an set up time is less than 5 minutes. Even if it's only partly sunny the solar works great keeping our batteries topped off. We also installed an inverter located at the entertainment center so we can use the TV/DVD off grid as well as recharge the laptop and cell phones. Using the generator now is a rare event, limited to DW's hair dryer
Recommend a 100w minimum solar kit. Larger if it's affordable.
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Old 01-28-2018, 08:21 PM   #6
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We decided on the portable option. Found a Zamp 200w system for a great price.
Looks like those run about $975?
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Old 01-28-2018, 08:34 PM   #7
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Actually, looking at Zamp, their charge controllers are PWM as well. I'd rather have the increased efficiency of an MPPT charge controller. I don't mind putting the kit together myself... I'm really just looking for feedback on the questions in the post: relative merits of roof vs freestanding mounts, suggestions for a battery box and 6V batteries, and suggestions about ideal mounting locations for the charge controller (which is probably more specific to roof-mounted panels as freestanding could have the charge controller mounted directly to the panels or the frames, like Zamp)
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Old 01-28-2018, 09:52 PM   #8
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I have two of the six volt golf cart batteries from Costco

And this portable solar panel
considered the renogy but it was on back order when I needed to order one
I know this is not the best kind of cells but i mainly got it for the way the legs are made and it was cheap- see the bags below

it actually has worked better than I expected, for one person in the camper - using tv, water pump and as much lighting as i want
it keeps everything very well charged - but keep in mind I live in Arizona where it is sunny 90% of the time

https://smile.amazon.com/HQST-Polycr...le+solar+panel


use these camera bags filled with pea gravel to weight down the legs and have had this thing out in some very big winds and it has not budged

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the portable set up but really for as much as I move my trailer around for work would have been better off with one on the roof, probably going to end up mounting a panel up there next fall- this summer it will probably be in a park with full hook ups

If I was only using my trailer for vacation stuff I think the portable works really well
To me the biggest advantage to portable is being able to move it around and put it in the sun even if you have the trailer parked in a shady area
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Old 02-01-2018, 08:18 AM   #9
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Everything I've read says that for low power, low voltage systems the PWM is a good choice as the MPPT does not have any advantage here. So if you're considering a 200w portable system the PWM controller is fine.

I have the Zamp 200w portable system, two T105 Golf cart batteries and a Zamp 1000w inverter. The system works great for my needs which includes a CPAP and a Keruig.
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Old 02-01-2018, 12:44 PM   #10
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Well the links are the parts I used. I mounted one on the roof so the battery would be kept charged when in storage. The other is on a long wire that I can move around when the 1 on the roof is not keeping up. If I had 3 panel I would mount 2 on roof.
Yes the controller is more then I need, but it is located on the inside of one of the pass thru door and if sun or heat is high I did not want to be on the edge of spec,s.
Controller $30
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Solar panel $115
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Added
At about 400 watt is where I would start looking at MPPT controller. I would add another panel with PWM controller and still be ahead of the cost and power of going MPPT.
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Old 02-01-2018, 02:01 PM   #11
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Since the batteries are the most expensive consumable in a solar system, it is important to protect them. Some of the name brand controllers have 3 stages and some up to 5 stages (Zamp for instance) similar to the better brands of chargers in your RV's power panel..

1. Soft Charge- When batteries suffer an over-discharge, the controller will softly ramps the battery voltage up to 10V for 12V battery, 20V for 24V battery.

2. Bulk Charge-Maximum current charging until batteries rise to Absorption level

3. Absorption Charge-Constant voltage charging and battery is over 85%.

4. Equalization Charge*- Only for WET battery or Calcium battery type, when the battery is deeply drained below 10V, it will automatically run this stage to bring the internal cells as an equal state and fully complement the loss of
capacity. (LiFePO4, LTO, Gel and AGM battery do not run Equalization
charge)

5. Float Charge- Battery is fully charged and maintained at a safe level.
A fully charged Lead acid battery (GEL, AGM, WET battery) has a voltage
of more than 13.6 Volts; A fully charged LiFePO4 or LTO battery has a
voltage level of 13.4V.
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Old 02-01-2018, 05:56 PM   #12
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5 stages controller seem a little over kill to me when you only have 0 to 10 Amp source. On my cheap controller I can set the output voltage to any level I want. In the campground I will turn it to 14.6V ( this is the voltage that my car charges its battery and it last for 5 or more years) and when I put the camper into storage I set it to 13.6V. It works for me.
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Old 02-01-2018, 06:10 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve/ View Post
5 stages controller seem a little over kill to me when you only have 0 to 10 Amp source. On my cheap controller I can set the output voltage to any level I want. In the campground I will turn it to 14.6V ( this is the voltage that my car charges its battery and it last for 5 or more years) and when I put the camper into storage I set it to 13.6V. It works for me.
The post was meant to inform the OP. The real concern is going down to the Float voltage. Probably doesn't matter if you never fully charge your battery at the campground. Just watch your water level.

You can get 3 stage controllers (Bulk, Absorption and Float) for under $20.
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Old 02-01-2018, 07:56 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by bill-e View Post
The post was meant to inform the OP. The real concern is going down to the Float voltage. Probably doesn't matter if you never fully charge your battery at the campground. Just watch your water level.

You can get 3 stage controllers (Bulk, Absorption and Float) for under $20.
My post was also meant to inform the OP. That a 300 watt system does not need all the bell and whistle. There is hardly enough power there to damage a 2 battery system. When the RV is being used crank up the voltage and when it is not being use turn the controller down. Plus he is talking about having movable panels that normally means that OP is plugging in and out of the system and doing a lot of manual stuff. So there is nothing wrong going with a simple system.
I would agree with you when you are using shore power a good 5 stage system may not be a bad thing. It would then have all the power it need to do all those neat thing. I am hoping my repost now adds information for the OP as to what I was trying to say.
I also said that on a system this small that a MPPT controller was not needed adding panels makes more sense, I should of added that I had a boat that had 250 watt system and I did not have room for adding another panel so I change to a MPPT controller and it got me the need Amps I was looking for, so everything has exceptions.
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Old 02-01-2018, 08:30 PM   #15
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I was looking for feedback on the relative merits of mounted vs. portable panels. My significant other had a good point though against portable, "When they're not set up, where do they go?" I think we're going to go with panels installed on the roof. We do tend towards being somewhat power-hungry with portable electronics and with the off-grid week-long hacker camp we'll be attending this summer, every little extra bit helps so an MPPT controller is looking more attractive I'll hit up Costco and see what their selection of deep-cycle 6V golf cart batteries is like.

Any battery box suggestions?
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Old 02-01-2018, 09:18 PM   #16
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Note: You need to measure how much current your rig is drawing sitting. I found on my rig it was drawing over 1.6 amp when refig was on gas. after the mod below it was 0.4 amp. That a lot of Amp saving.

JRTJH posted this to my post about this.

If you read the owner's manual and locate a schematic for the refrigerator, you'll find a "door heater circuit" installed in line with the interior light circuit that prevents condensation on the refrigerator cabinet at the door gasket. That circuit is "always on" in the DM2652/2852 models and there is a switch to turn it off (located under the eyebrow panel) on the DM2662/2862 (upgraded models). The additional amperage draw is that "door heater circuit" which can be disabled with a modification. You can find the "how to" by doing a search on the forum. A couple of members have posted extensive instructions complete with pictures on their modification.

Depending on battery you should be able to find battery boxes at auto store or RV shop. Walmart has them sometimes.
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Old 02-02-2018, 07:53 AM   #17
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As to portable vs installed. I struggled for a while with this decision and went with portable. First, my fridge is on a slide so that would mean drilling into my roof. Plus the added possible leak locations caused by the panel brackets. As technology get's better for the semi flexible panels, I may add 400w to my roof and glue them down rather than penetrate the roof.

The portable is certainly more work at the campsite but we like to camp under trees and the portable and about 30' of cable allow me to find sun if there is any. Even in a field if you park next to a tree line area the shadows in mid afternoon can cover the camper in which case I just move the panels.

If you park in fields all the time then certainly the roof mount is the best option.

All panels need to be cleaned, especially in the spring when the pollen will cover them in no time. Portable are easier in that regard.

Storage - I use my panels about 6 times a season and just lay the suitcase it comes in on my bed for transport. When I'm using shore power I leave it home.

Portable is quick, most come with clips for the battery so there is really no installation. I installed a Zamp bulkhead connector to plug mine in to.

My 200w panels even here in NH put out almost 15amps during the height of the sun. I have no problems charging 50-60ah during a sunny day which usually fills my battery.
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Old 02-02-2018, 08:02 AM   #18
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A 6v battery will actually fit in your 12v box but it is taller. I just added another 12v box for 9 bucks, put the covers on the batteries and use a strap to the bracket.

I am considering this box for end to end battery mounting.

Battery box
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Old 02-02-2018, 12:56 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by bill-e View Post
A 6v battery will actually fit in your 12v box but it is taller. I just added another 12v box for 9 bucks, put the covers on the batteries and use a strap to the bracket.

I am considering this box for end to end battery mounting.

Battery box
I bought that same box, when I converted to 2 X GC2 batteries, on the mfg web site it is $53.25 , but no free shipping

2 X GC2 battery box

I have noticed that since the battery tray only supports the perimeter of the box the bottom of the box, in the middle, is bulging a little and the batteries are pushed together and rubbing on each other.

I am thinking of adding either a 1/8" steel strap to support the middle or just dropping in a 1/8" steel plate to fill the whole thing in.
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Old 02-02-2018, 07:05 PM   #20
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Looks like those run about $975?
Found ours locally for about $250 on a Craig's list type web site. Yes, retail is in the $900+ range, but there are deals out there. 100w will do the job and save about 1/2 if you're buying retail. Portable was a no brainer for us. The connector to the batteries was already in place, so install was a snap. Storage is not a problem as the system folds up butterfly style and has a hard case that stores flat. Set up is under 5 minutes.
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