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Old 01-11-2018, 09:18 AM   #1
5th_Wheelin
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Quick question regarding water pressure

I don't know why, but for some reason in my mind I have 55psi as the max pressure I should allow for incoming water from the city water connection. Can anyone confirm this off the top of their head?


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Old 01-11-2018, 09:20 AM   #2
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I've always been told 40.

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Old 01-11-2018, 09:31 AM   #3
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Don't have a real answer for you but most of the pressure reducer fittings I've seen, and use, regulate the pressure between 40 and 50 psi.
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Old 01-11-2018, 09:53 AM   #4
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50 psi not enough pressure for a decent shower. I use a pressure regulator and set as I need.
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Old 01-11-2018, 01:40 PM   #5
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Definitely want to invest in a water pressure regulator. It's a small investment for your large investment. I just looked at one,,,$12.39
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Old 01-11-2018, 01:47 PM   #6
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I do have one. I have been using the cheap camco one most people use. I recently purchased an expensive adjustable regulator to try to increase the pressure to improve my showering experience. Hahahaha

Just trying to figure out how high I can set it with enough tolerance to not damage any components.
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Old 01-11-2018, 01:54 PM   #7
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My regulator was preset at 55 psi which, if the park has that high, makes for a good shower. Most parks have very low pressure, in my opinion, but we've been to several that have had 80+psi & a real regulator was required.
Pex piping is rated at 100+/- psi but not sure about the plastic fittings.
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Old 01-11-2018, 03:14 PM   #8
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I've seen different views on max pressure coming into the RV. I had heard 40 psi., 50 psi and even up to 65 psi. I don't think pex cares about any of those numbers but I do worry about all the connections. I ran 135 psi thru our house in the mountains with pex and had no problems (for a short period) but our connections there are much more robust that those in the trailer.

I used the non adjustable type on the RV for a while but it is just not acceptable. We found that water pressures in RV parks seem to be pretty much regulated any more.....way regulated to about 40 psi....maybe. Then, when there is high usage you're lucky to get enough to make a shower head work. When adding the non adjustable regulator it knocked the pressure down no matter what. What might have been a weak flow would be decreased to maddeningly slow. It did come in handy in those few places that had high pressure -all you have to do is turn on the spigot and you can tell 40-50 psi from 100.

We now use an adjustable pressure regulator and voila'! things work no matter where we go. I would highly recommend one if you are using the non adjustable type like you buy at Walmart.
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Old 01-11-2018, 05:11 PM   #9
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We use an adjustable regulator. Had a Valterra one that developed problems with flow, forgot it at a park in Wyoming, so no loss. Bought a better Watts regulator at a hardware/plumbing supply store, along with fittings to connect to hose ends. It regulates the pressure much better and with the larger adjustable regulators, you get the better water flow, which is the downside to the cheap fixed regulators for RVs. I went with a LFN45B model with 3/4" threaded ends that I could thread the hose fittings onto. Works great. http://www.watts.com/pages/_products...s.asp?pid=6807
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Old 01-11-2018, 05:31 PM   #10
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I'm no plumber, so someone jump in here if I don't explain this correctly. "Satisfactory shower head performance" depends on two factors. First is pressure. Typically any pressure greater than about 35 or 40 PSI is suitable. The second, and just as important, maybe even more important is volume. If you don't have sufficient volume of water flowing through the pipes, it will just trickle out of the shower head no matter if the pressure is 40 or 80 PSI.

Now, most "non-adjustable" tube type (CHEAP) pressure regulators, the $5 plastic ones and the $10 brass ones, usually restrict water flow so much that the volume of water flowing into the trailer is less than 3 or 4 GPM. That sounds sufficient, but when flowing through a 25' half in hose, into the city water connector, through several valves, fittings, being split so half goes to the cold water side and the other half goes to the hot water side and is further restricted by the valves there, it doesn't take much volume reduction to make an otherwise suitable shower turn into a "dribbler".....

I'd suggest getting a good, high volume pressure regulator, one that flows 6 or 8 gallons per minute and adjust it to 40 PSI. You'll likely see a much improved shower experience with a quality shower head. Oh, and don't think that Keystone installs quality shower heads in most of their trailers. A trip to an RV store for an Oxygenics head will almost always bring a smile in the shower.

Think of it this way. Aupply 400 PSI of water pressure through a "pinhole" at the faucet, connect a 25' hose and all you'll get out the other end is a dribble. Now, increase that pinhole to a 1/2" hole and you'll get enough pressure at the other end of the hose to knock the decals off your trailer..... It takes both pressure AND volume to be "workable" for most open ended water functions such as a shower head.
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Old 01-11-2018, 05:42 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
I'm no plumber, so someone jump in here if I don't explain this correctly. "Satisfactory shower head performance" depends on two factors. First is pressure. Typically any pressure greater than about 35 or 40 PSI is suitable. The second, and just as important, maybe even more important is volume. If you don't have sufficient volume of water flowing through the pipes, it will just trickle out of the shower head no matter if the pressure is 40 or 80 PSI.

Now, most "non-adjustable" tube type (CHEAP) pressure regulators, the $5 plastic ones and the $10 brass ones, usually restrict water flow so much that the volume of water flowing into the trailer is less than 3 or 4 GPM. That sounds sufficient, but when flowing through a 25' half in hose, into the city water connector, through several valves, fittings, being split so half goes to the cold water side and the other half goes to the hot water side and is further restricted by the valves there, it doesn't take much volume reduction to make an otherwise suitable shower turn into a "dribbler".....

I'd suggest getting a good, high volume pressure regulator, one that flows 6 or 8 gallons per minute and adjust it to 40 PSI. You'll likely see a much improved shower experience with a quality shower head. Oh, and don't think that Keystone installs quality shower heads in most of their trailers. A trip to an RV store for an Oxygenics head will almost always bring a smile in the shower.

Think of it this way. Aupply 400 PSI of water pressure through a "pinhole" at the faucet, connect a 25' hose and all you'll get out the other end is a dribble. Now, increase that pinhole to a 1/2" hole and you'll get enough pressure at the other end of the hose to knock the decals off your trailer..... It takes both pressure AND volume to be "workable" for most open ended water functions such as a shower head.
X2 on the Oxygenic shower head and good regulator. I would add in my experience that using a 5/8" hose and a 10" filter improved the flow rate for me.
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Old 01-11-2018, 05:45 PM   #12
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Been using one like this going on a year... with great results! I set it to 55#.
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Old 01-12-2018, 05:55 AM   #13
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Well most newer RVs are using the pex water lines so they should be capable of using the same pressures as your bricks and sticks home. Not sure why they say to limit the pressure to 40 something except that may cover all RVs being some still out there have the older style water lines. Even the faucets are residential quality in the newer RVs.
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Old 01-12-2018, 09:21 AM   #14
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Well most newer RVs are using the pex water lines so they should be capable of using the same pressures as your bricks and sticks home. Not sure why they say to limit the pressure to 40 something except that may cover all RVs being some still out there have the older style water lines. Even the faucets are residential quality in the newer RVs.
PEX lines with PEX fittings (used in residential construction) are rated well above 40 PSI. PEX lines with ABS (schedule 20) fittings (used in RV applications) is not rated as high as "better quality fittings" would be. When you add the "lesser quality fittings" and put the plumbing in an environment that "shakes, vibrates and rattles" down the highway, it's not going to stand up to the same "reliability standards" as residential construction that never moves once it's "water tested" not to leak. There's a significant difference in the environment where the PEX is used.

I can't speak to "current model" trailers, but I can say that my 2011 Springdale and my 2014 Cougar XLite were both fitted with Phoenix faucets. They are NOT residential quality, they are plastic faucets with "residential valves". Sure they "look like residential stuff" but that's the end of it. Any time you can go on Amazon and buy a complete Phoenix faucet for $18.99 with free shipping, you can't consider it "equal to" a $189 Delta faucet from Home Depot.

Those two factors, Cheap fittings that get shaken around in transit and cheap faucets that look good but ain't, are the main reason why RV water pressure recommendations don't parallel home construction PEX plumbing pressure recommendations.
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Old 01-12-2018, 04:09 PM   #15
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Been using one like this going on a year... with great results! I set it to 55#.
This is the same regulator we use. I have it set at 45psi. The pressure and flow are about the same as we get from the on board water pump when we use it.
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Old 07-04-2018, 01:04 PM   #16
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Forget the max pressure for tubing, PEX, fittings, pumps, faucets, or ANY pieces and parts... the weakest link in this "chain" is the QUALITY OF CONSTRUCTION (lack thereof) and absence of quality control. All it takes is one hastily installed clamp, or installation over a sharp edge, against an OVEN (like mine), or any of a thousand half-a$$ed idiot construction mistakes buried deep in the walls, ceiling, floor, etc... to wreck your day, (or vacation). All in the name of "fast and cheap" .... a regulator might prove to be your insurance... no guarantee, but worth it.
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Old 07-04-2018, 01:21 PM   #17
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Been using one like this going on a year... with great results! I set it to 55#.
Just ordered one like that yesterday, can't wait to see the difference from the brass with the orange knurl that I've always used.
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Old 07-04-2018, 03:10 PM   #18
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Just ordered one like that yesterday, can't wait to see the difference from the brass with the orange knurl that I've always used.
The biggest joy I've had with ours is that we don't constantly have low pressure everywhere we go. The cheap brass with orange knob knocks down the pressure on "every" water connection....even if it's only 20 psi. The ones like the above don't.
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Old 07-04-2018, 06:57 PM   #19
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The cheapo plastic and even the non adjustable brass units restrict the flow. Only an adjustable unit with a diaphragm will truly regulate the water pressure. Most water utility companies will tell you "normal" water pressure is between 40 - 60 PSI. Over the years I've had the most satisfaction using a 5/8" water hose, a good adjustable regulator, 10" Water filter, and Oxygenetics shower head. YMMV
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Old 07-14-2018, 11:04 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
I'm no plumber, so someone jump in here if I don't explain this correctly. "Satisfactory shower head performance" depends on two factors. First is pressure. Typically any pressure greater than about 35 or 40 PSI is suitable. The second, and just as important, maybe even more important is volume. If you don't have sufficient volume of water flowing through the pipes, it will just trickle out of the shower head no matter if the pressure is 40 or 80 PSI.

Now, most "non-adjustable" tube type (CHEAP) pressure regulators, the $5 plastic ones and the $10 brass ones, usually restrict water flow so much that the volume of water flowing into the trailer is less than 3 or 4 GPM. That sounds sufficient, but when flowing through a 25' half in hose, into the city water connector, through several valves, fittings, being split so half goes to the cold water side and the other half goes to the hot water side and is further restricted by the valves there, it doesn't take much volume reduction to make an otherwise suitable shower turn into a "dribbler".....

I'd suggest getting a good, high volume pressure regulator, one that flows 6 or 8 gallons per minute and adjust it to 40 PSI. You'll likely see a much improved shower experience with a quality shower head. Oh, and don't think that Keystone installs quality shower heads in most of their trailers. A trip to an RV store for an Oxygenics head will almost always bring a smile in the shower.

Think of it this way. Aupply 400 PSI of water pressure through a "pinhole" at the faucet, connect a 25' hose and all you'll get out the other end is a dribble. Now, increase that pinhole to a 1/2" hole and you'll get enough pressure at the other end of the hose to knock the decals off your trailer..... It takes both pressure AND volume to be "workable" for most open ended water functions such as a shower head.
You are correct. I think Volume is more important, it works like electricity volts =pressure amps = volume. I've run into lots of people that want an air compressor that pumps 165 psi or higher. I have a compressor that will pump 275 psi, it will fill a tire in three days. You need volume. There are lots of restrictions in your trailers water system. The lines from the pec tubing to your shower might be 3/8" or smaller and that could be the problem. Plus many 90s it all adds up to pressure and volume loss.

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