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Old 03-28-2018, 04:25 PM   #1
Cracker
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Cleaning threads for heater anode

Is there any way to chase the threads on the anode assembly? It looks like there are calcium deposits that are preventing the anode from being screwed into the heater very far. I believe that it will seal, and I know that the threads are tapered, but it doesn’t look like any more than four threads go in before it gets tight. ——and yes, I’m using Teflon tape. This is a “new to me but” used travel trailer. Would CLR do anything?
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Old 03-28-2018, 04:29 PM   #2
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It is probably pipe thread. Use your bench grinder wire wheel to clean the threads.

If you use pipe dope instead of teflon tape you should get the pipe go screw down a bit farther.

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Old 03-28-2018, 05:58 PM   #3
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I routinely take a wire wheel to brand new anode rods to remove the Teflon tape and apply pipe dope. Just make sure you use the right one. I have WHITE for water and YELLOW for gas lines.
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Old 03-28-2018, 06:04 PM   #4
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I use a little metal brush
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Old 03-29-2018, 03:00 AM   #5
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Just a wire brush and a little WHITE Teflon tape........
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Old 03-29-2018, 05:36 AM   #6
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I should have said that it was the female tank threads that are clogged - not the male anode rod threads. The pipe dope may help though. Speaking of pipe dope - I’m going to change my regulator today. is the yellow dope what I should use?
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Old 03-29-2018, 05:56 AM   #7
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I should have said that it was the female tank threads that are clogged - not the male anode rod threads. The pipe dope may help though. Speaking of pipe dope - I’m going to change my regulator today. is the yellow dope what I should use?
On the female w/h threads, just use a stainless steel wire brush (mine looks like an overgrown tooth brush).
Use yellow tape/dope for anything involving propane.
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Old 03-29-2018, 06:33 AM   #8
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The anode rod will not seat fully to the tank. Tighten it only until it seals and does not leak. Don't try to make it bottom out on the tank. Clean threads seal better, of course, just don't be too aggressive with it. White tape on the anode rod is fine as it has absolutely no contact with propane, just water.
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Old 03-29-2018, 06:43 AM   #9
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I clean the tank anode threads every year when winterizng.. I use a small wood handled brass brush and clean threads then blow tank out with air gun..

Also at that time I always install new anode and I know use Teflon tape.. I don’t like the mess that pipe dope leaves...
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Old 03-29-2018, 08:40 PM   #10
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If the threads inside the hole of the water heater are that bad, a 3/4" pipe tap could be used to clean the hard stuff from the threads. Just be very careful to not cut metal, but just screw it in far enough to make the threads clean. Also, make sure a little lubricant is used so the tap doesn't get seized.
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Old 04-01-2018, 06:13 AM   #11
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Quote:
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I clean the tank anode threads every year when winterizng.. I use a small wood handled brass brush and clean threads then blow tank out with air gun..

Also at that time I always install new anode and I know use Teflon tape.. I don’t like the mess that pipe dope leaves...
OK - I found the little wire brush you mentioned. I had not thought about blowing the tank out with the air gun but it sounds like a good idea! I agree with the pipe dope mess. It’s OK for a semi-permanent connection - but not one you’re going to undo seasonally.
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Old 04-01-2018, 07:19 AM   #12
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Many ways to accomplish the task. I just find if I drain, clean tank inside threads with brush, blow out with air to remove particles, install new anode with Teflon tape it’s always ready and I never have leaks or hard to remove anode.


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Old 04-01-2018, 07:32 AM   #13
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I have a cheap plastic tool that goes on the end of a water hose. Stick it inside the tank and rinse all the junk out. If your anode rod is eaten away at all you'll be surprised at all the stuff that comes out. I prefer the dope..You don't have to worry about which direction to wind the tape..
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Old 04-01-2018, 11:34 AM   #14
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Go to the hardware and get a wire brush about the size of a toothbrush. You may have to round off the top corners a bit on the wood, but that should work to clean the threads. Like these,
https://www.amazon.com/SUBANG-Pieces...re+brush&psc=1
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Old 04-01-2018, 11:43 AM   #15
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Or this . . . https://www.amazon.ca/Simply-Silver-...ost+wire+brush

Or this . . .https://www.amazon.ca/ILS-Battery-Te...ost+wire+brush


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Old 04-22-2018, 04:51 PM   #16
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What someone else on another section said what he did was to take an old anode and grind slots in it to make a makeshift tap. He says it cleans the threads well. When mine needs cleaning again it sounds like a good idea. a real tap to chase the threads are about $40 which is to much.
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Old 04-22-2018, 05:12 PM   #17
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I cleaned the threads just this afternoon and I believe i have at least 4 threads engaged and I used the stick sealant vs teflon. I’ll de-winterize tommorow and see how it goes. For the record, I used the little “toothbrush-like” wire brush and I actually had to use my crescent wrench to rotate it. Afterwards I blew the tank out with my air jet.
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Old 04-23-2018, 03:10 AM   #18
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Next time if you don't have compressed air, just leave the anode out and turn the water on. this will flush out debris thru the anode pipe flange. It may take a few minutes but it will flush out.
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