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08-09-2018, 02:42 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Waco, Tx
Posts: 5,457
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My switch is as in the photo except it's BLACK...
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2015 Ford F350 DRW 6.7 Diesel XL
2020 Avalanche 313 RS
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08-09-2018, 05:35 PM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Beverly Hills
Posts: 3
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There should be an on/off switch right on the water heater. Just look inside the grill/cover. It may be hidden behind some lines. I found mine and all is good now.
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08-11-2018, 08:42 PM
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#23
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Port Angeles Wash
Posts: 26
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Had problem with electric side of heater in my 3295RK couple years ago. First impression was bad element, bought new element only to discover that was not it. Finally discovered it was intermittent rocker switch mounted on bottom left corner of heater. A two dollar part from Radio Shack!
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08-12-2018, 05:24 AM
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#24
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,758
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FF/PM
No, assuming the circuit breakers are the correct amperage. If there has been no alterations there is no problem. Make sure you get a relay that can carry the appropriate 12v and 110v loads. The existing circuit breaker will protect the system as long as the hot goes through it before the relay.
When I purchased the relay I went to a local electronics store so I could be confident I got the right load capacities. I didn't trust something I didn't get my hands on first. A few connectors and a little bit of the right size wire is the only other parts you need.
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Or just buy this https://www.campingworld.com/switch-...-heaters-black
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Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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08-14-2018, 08:22 PM
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#25
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Eagle
Posts: 25
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I'm pretty sure that is simply as 12v switch. I used a lighted switch just like that but it fit in my control center just like the rest of the trailer controls. I liked the cleanliness, and the wiring would (i believe) have been the same.
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08-26-2018, 08:15 PM
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#26
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Cameron
Posts: 4
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i am having the same issue, water heater works perfect, electric is a no go. i was unaware of the switch located inside the panel, which was switched off. but i noticed the last camping trip my relief valve(or whatever its called at the top) it was leaking. so i will be replacing that then checking on the switch. one question is i pulled the drain plug with the anode? on it, and thats fairly eaten up. should I replace that as well or is that ok. dont mean to hijack thread, but figured anyone else working on there water heater, might want to check the anode plug at the bottom
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08-27-2018, 01:12 AM
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#27
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Wytopitlock
Posts: 26
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Yes,I would replace the anode....it has its purpose, as you can tell by seeing the old one.
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08-27-2018, 01:13 AM
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#28
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Site Team | Emeritus
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 3,878
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p0wd3rp1l0t
i am having the same issue, water heater works perfect, electric is a no go. i was unaware of the switch located inside the panel, which was switched off. but i noticed the last camping trip my relief valve(or whatever its called at the top) it was leaking. so i will be replacing that then checking on the switch. one question is i pulled the drain plug with the anode? on it, and thats fairly eaten up. should I replace that as well or is that ok. dont mean to hijack thread, but figured anyone else working on there water heater, might want to check the anode plug at the bottom
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If the anode is mostly gone, go ahead and replace it if you choose. Do a search as there is another post this summer that extensively went over this issue.
On your pressure valve, there is a procedure for reestablishing the air gap at the top of the tank. Not having the air gap will cause what you describe. There may not be anything wrong.
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Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Impact 312
2017 Silverado 3500HD SRW
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08-27-2018, 06:49 AM
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#29
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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Here's a diagram of the anode rod. It describes the condition fairly well. There's no need to replace a "worn rod" unless it's beyond at least 50%. Depending on the amount of use between now and the end of the season, your current anode may be more than you need for that time frame.
Keep in mind that the anode is the only protection your water heater tank has to prevent/slow corrosion. Once it's completely gone, the tank becomes the anode.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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08-28-2018, 06:41 AM
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#30
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Cameron
Posts: 4
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status update:
I ended up replacing both the anode and relief valve. Anode was only $15, and the relief valve was around there as well. Water heater doesn't leak, and also it works on the electric now. Amazing what that little on/off switch on the lower left inside the panel to access the water heater, the water is a lot hotter with that switch in the on position. thanks guys for your assistance-
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08-28-2018, 07:30 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Mico, TX
Posts: 7,468
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When we first got our trailer, I didn't even know that the electric element was there. Found it and it was fried along with the switch. Prior, I had to take a shower before going to bed so the missus had enough hot water first thing in the AM using just the propane heated water. Now we can both shower since I have things working as they should and not run cold... missus is not happy about cold even on warm days!
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wiredgeorge Mico TX
2006 F350 CC 4WD 6.0L
2002 Keystone Cougar 278
2006 GL1800 Roadsmith Trike
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