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Old 08-13-2017, 05:51 AM   #21
NorskeBob
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Banshee365 - keep the tires and brakes in good shape, travel at posted speeds and enjoy your travels. If you ditch the lift then I would add airbags. I have them on my truck and it help to level the truck and makes the ride smoother.

When the dealer delivered our RV they left the tanks full of fresh water. The water was from them checking out the tank level monitoring system. There may be residual water in your RV tanks after the level probe testing.

We travel with the gray and black tanks empty and the water tank about 1/3 full. Carry water in case we need to use the bath room during our travels.

I dry camp at the race track once a year and dump the tanks before we leave and open the drain on the water tank. The track is about 100 miles from our house.
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Old 08-13-2017, 06:38 AM   #22
rhagfo
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Originally Posted by NorskeBob View Post
Banshee365 - keep the tires and brakes in good shape, travel at posted speeds and enjoy your travels. If you ditch the lift then I would add airbags. I have them on my truck and it help to level the truck and makes the ride smoother.

When the dealer delivered our RV they left the tanks full of fresh water. The water was from them checking out the tank level monitoring system. There may be residual water in your RV tanks after the level probe testing.

We travel with the gray and black tanks empty and the water tank about 1/3 full. Carry water in case we need to use the bath room during our travels.

I dry camp at the race track once a year and dump the tanks before we leave and open the drain on the water tank. The track is about 100 miles from our house.
Banshee365, even over my GVWR I never worry about traveling with full tanks, have done it several times. The most notable time was coming back over a Cascade pass at 4,800'+ that included the FW tank. We had zero issues going down hill just put the 5 speed manual in 4th, and let the exhaust brake rumble down the hill at a controlled speed. I always travel with the FW tank full to increase my pin weight to about 22% to eliminate chucking.
I should add that I am well within axle and tire ratings.
Best to you and safe travels.
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Old 08-13-2017, 08:14 AM   #23
Banshee365
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Originally Posted by NorskeBob View Post
Banshee365 - keep the tires and brakes in good shape, travel at posted speeds and enjoy your travels. If you ditch the lift then I would add airbags. I have them on my truck and it help to level the truck and makes the ride smoother.

When the dealer delivered our RV they left the tanks full of fresh water. The water was from them checking out the tank level monitoring system. There may be residual water in your RV tanks after the level probe testing.

We travel with the gray and black tanks empty and the water tank about 1/3 full. Carry water in case we need to use the bath room during our travels.

I dry camp at the race track once a year and dump the tanks before we leave and open the drain on the water tank. The track is about 100 miles from our house.
You're right, I would definitely need air bags with the lift removed. The add-a-leaf is stiffening the sprint currently and negating the need currently. The airbags would be a better solution either way really. The trailers tires are really my main concern and is really th main reason why I plan to tow with empty tanks. I'll look to upgrade to Sailuns or something in the near future.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rhagfo View Post
Banshee365, even over my GVWR I never worry about traveling with full tanks, have done it several times. The most notable time was coming back over a Cascade pass at 4,800'+ that included the FW tank. We had zero issues going down hill just put the 5 speed manual in 4th, and let the exhaust brake rumble down the hill at a controlled speed. I always travel with the FW tank full to increase my pin weight to about 22% to eliminate chucking.
I should add that I am well within axle and tire ratings.
Best to you and safe travels.
Manuals are sure great for that. Automatics have gotten so good in the past 15 years that you don't HAVE to have a manual to have reliability now. It used to be that Dodge put the HO Cummings in the manual because the auto couldn't take it. Now it's the other way around. They cut a couple hundred ft-lbs of torque off the manual trans because the clutch can't handle the 900+ ft-lbs. The RAWR and tire ratings are certainly hugely important. My tire rating is far beyond my RAWR of 6,100#. The same tire is used on the F-350 SRW with a 7000# RAWR. The ratings are obviously a bit closer together with that higher RAWR.
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Old 08-13-2017, 10:47 AM   #24
sourdough
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Wow, are you usually that hostile with your opinions? You seem to think you're talking to an idiot here (me). I may have entered my 30's a couple short years ago but I've been wrenching since I can remember, mostly on 4x4 trucks. I've installed dozens of lift kits on IFS and SFA trucks. I've rebuilt my 2.5 ton military truck from the ground up. I'm sorry that the lift the previous owner installed on the truck isn't up to your personal standards. Speaking of that, do you happen to know the rear suspension differences between a 2005 6100# GAWR F-250 and 7000# GAWR F-350? A 4" block on the F-350 versus a 2" block on the F-250. Maybe you should call Ford and tell them the .38 bit. My truck is maxed out on all accounts? You mean, on ONE account right? GVWR. If you actually knew what you're talking about you would know the only drawback to an add-a-leaf is the stiff ride. Regardless, did you read the multiple times where I said I still may take the lift off? Or do you just like being combative? Your .38 'thing' regarding my wife and family is down right disturbing. You have lost all credibility with me with that one.

I apologize if you think I was being hostile. I was somewhat graphic, and occasionally I am, but only to make you think and realize the importance of the cargo you have with you. In hindsight it probably was a little over the top for the situation and I again apologize. Using that type of metaphor, although graphic, is common place with the folks I've grown up with, hunted with and "shot the breeze" with around a campfire lfor 50 years - and no one takes offense. I fail to think that others might find them otherwise.

You said you were open to removing the lift, or could....not that you were actually going to, if I recall - maybe I misinterpreted?. If you remove that I think you then proceed with what you think is right. It sounds like you are thinking of all the facets which many don't. It also sounds like you will be overweight when fully loaded....that will be determined and is your call.

Yes, I understand that the "factory" also uses blocks, but, having seen trucks sitting on a 12" block with what appeared to be 1/4" U bolts swaying too and fro over the axle (extreme example), anything is possible with a "homegrown" lift. I just wanted to make you aware of those issues. I don't/didn't know if you have any expertise working on a vehicle or not. If you do, then you should know what you are looking at when you look at the lift.

I'm not, and wasn't, trying to be combative or insulting but upon re-reading the post, in an objective manner, I can see how it comes across that way. My only goal when on this forum, or any of the others I belong to, is to learn and contribute. In this case I think I contributed, but probably not in the best, or positive sense - for that I'm sorry.
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Old 08-13-2017, 12:46 PM   #25
Banshee365
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It's all good. I work in a profession that operates souely 'by the numbers.' It certainly bothers me somewhat that I'm over GVWR. But, I know that practically it's nOt as big of a deal as it seems. The RAWR and tire ratings are another story. Those are hard numbers to me. Even though the F-350 has a 7000# RAWR with the same frame, axle housing, and springs. But I digress. I can get the stock suspension components of free out of the scrap pile from a 4x4 shop and my labor is free so removing the lift is probably more likely to happen than not. It will also make it easier for the wife to drive and get the boy in and out of the car seat. My truck when empty sits a touch high in the front. With the 5er is obviously more noticeable. This will make my headlights shine a bit high which will annoy other drivers. The rear end with the 5er in the bed actually looks rather normal. But, the front has a large amount of wheel well around what looks to be a little tire. This is the main reason I will probably remove the lift. I could stand to drop the nose of the 5er another inch to perfectly level it but the axle loading are very similar. The automatic leveling system says the unit is sitting 0.7 degrees nose high.

I think he ideal setup for this truck is to remove the lift and add air bags. I have a few projects in line first but will probably source the parts first so I have them on hand.
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Old 08-13-2017, 02:48 PM   #26
sourdough
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It's all good. I work in a profession that operates souely 'by the numbers.' It certainly bothers me somewhat that I'm over GVWR. But, I know that practically it's nOt as big of a deal as it seems. The RAWR and tire ratings are another story. Those are hard numbers to me. Even though the F-350 has a 7000# RAWR with the same frame, axle housing, and springs. But I digress. I can get the stock suspension components of free out of the scrap pile from a 4x4 shop and my labor is free so removing the lift is probably more likely to happen than not. It will also make it easier for the wife to drive and get the boy in and out of the car seat. My truck when empty sits a touch high in the front. With the 5er is obviously more noticeable. This will make my headlights shine a bit high which will annoy other drivers. The rear end with the 5er in the bed actually looks rather normal. But, the front has a large amount of wheel well around what looks to be a little tire. This is the main reason I will probably remove the lift. I could stand to drop the nose of the 5er another inch to perfectly level it but the axle loading are very similar. The automatic leveling system says the unit is sitting 0.7 degrees nose high.

I think he ideal setup for this truck is to remove the lift and add air bags. I have a few projects in line first but will probably source the parts first so I have them on hand.

I agree on your assessment of the solution (lift removal/bags). Once done, can you not adjust your headlights down to find a workable compromise between the loaded/unloaded positions?

I also understand about the tire/wheel well thing. A lifted vehicle just looks strange with a little tire in there. My grandson had wheeled with me for quite some time. He found a K5 Blazer for sale and bought it (this was several years ago). When he got it he called me for advice (I drove to Dallas to see). The previous owner had removed the 37s that were on it and put the stock wheels and tires on it. It looked ridiculous (to me). I observed then that he had the kid of lift I talked about in the previous post (blocks). He loved the looks of the lift so my first order of business was removing the blocks (I explained my thoughts on them to him) and put in a full Skyjacker 6" lift - new springs, no blocks. Compromised and I put on a set of 35" Pro Comps for him. Looked good and looked like he could get 37s in there if he wanted to later - I could see no reason he needed that large of a tire at 19 - and it saved me a few bucks
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