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Old 05-03-2018, 05:06 PM   #41
kinggartk
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Originally Posted by sourdough View Post
I changed D tires to E on my trailer. The rim was rated for it. Kinggartk won't know until he looks at the wheels.

Upgrading a C tire on a C wheel to D doesn't gain you much, but, in this case the Raniers would be gone (don't know if they're good or bad but I would worry - the Carlisle's have proven to be good so far) which is a plus. The Carlisle D should be a more robust tire than the C so that is a plus. Running lower pressure could be an issue depending on the thoughts one has about that. So, there are some positive points to the exchange, it just won't improve load capacity unless the wheels will allow it.
The D rated tire is only $3.00 more than the same size C rated Carlisle tire.

So...to clarify...would there be a problem running the D rated tire at 50 PSI instead of max 65 PSI if 50 is the max for my rims?
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Old 05-03-2018, 05:30 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by kinggartk View Post
The D rated tire is only $3.00 more than the same size C rated Carlisle tire.

So...to clarify...would there be a problem running the D rated tire at 50 PSI instead of max 65 PSI if 50 is the max for my rims?
As I mentioned, running an ST tire under max pressure is a point that has different views from folks. It's something you have to determine for yourself from reading (do a search here or other forums) various viewpoints. There is no cut and dried "absolute" answer that I've found. In your case, I think I'd go with the Ds "just because". Running an ST tire at lower than max pressure can cause premature fatiguing of the sidewall due to their construction for "carrying loads", not "flexing" for a smooth automobile ride. If you do that I would just always keep a close eye on them for fatigue cracks on the sidewall. And, you should ALWAYS be looking at those tires no matter what. Keep in mind that you aren't going to run these tires 100k miles, 50k or maybe 20k (depending on how you travel) before you need to replace them before they age out.
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Old 05-03-2018, 05:45 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by kinggartk View Post
The D rated tire is only $3.00 more than the same size C rated Carlisle tire.

So...to clarify...would there be a problem running the D rated tire at 50 PSI instead of max 65 PSI if 50 is the max for my rims?
A LRE tire provides the same load capacity at 50 PSI as a LRD of the same size.

Some wheel manufacturers do not put a PSI limit on their wheels/rims. In all probability you cannot exceed your wheel's load limit without going overweight with your trailer.
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Old 05-14-2018, 03:29 AM   #44
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Just a followup...took my trailer to Discount Tire over the weekend and had the Carlisle "D" rated tires installed. The technician checked my rims before he installed them and they are rated for more than 65PSI.

Needless to day...I'm thrilled and ready for my first long trip.
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Old 05-15-2018, 02:30 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by kinggartk View Post
The D rated tire is only $3.00 more than the same size C rated Carlisle tire.

So...to clarify...would there be a problem running the D rated tire at 50 PSI instead of max 65 PSI if 50 is the max for my rims?
No it isn't a problem. A tire isn't underinflated just because it's below max rated pressure. It's underinflated if you have too little air for the load the tire is actually carrying. The manufacturer should have an inflation chart that tells you what to run based on the actual load (weight) the tire will be carrying in your situation. Running tires at max rated pressure when the load they're carrying doesn't warrant it has undesirable consequences: 1. the tire wears faster and doesn't brake as well due to reduced contact patch. 2. your trailer and its contents get beat to death. All of this is according to the Sailun tire rep I communicated with prior to purchasing my tires, as well as my personal experience after using said tires for several trips.
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Old 05-15-2018, 04:09 PM   #46
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No it isn't a problem. A tire isn't underinflated just because it's below max rated pressure. It's underinflated if you have too little air for the load the tire is actually carrying. The manufacturer should have an inflation chart that tells you what to run based on the actual load (weight) the tire will be carrying in your situation. Running tires at max rated pressure when the load they're carrying doesn't warrant it has undesirable consequences: 1. the tire wears faster and doesn't brake as well due to reduced contact patch. 2. your trailer and its contents get beat to death. All of this is according to the Sailun tire rep I communicated with prior to purchasing my tires, as well as my personal experience after using said tires for several trips.
That statement marked bold and in orange does not apply to vehicles manufactured under the guidance of FMVSS standards. Those standards apply to 99% of all RV trailers and their tow vehicles.

The following statement is supported by the entire tire industry; NEVER use cold inflation pressures below vehicle manufacturer recommended cold inflation pressures for your OE tires. You will find a statement similar to that on page #44 of the reference provided below. (Page 44 is in chapter #4, RV tires).

https://www.ustires.org/sites/defaul...TruckTires.pdf
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Old 05-15-2018, 04:56 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by CWtheMan View Post
That statement marked bold and in orange does not apply to vehicles manufactured under the guidance of FMVSS standards. Those standards apply to 99% of all RV trailers and their tow vehicles.

The following statement is supported by the entire tire industry; NEVER use cold inflation pressures below vehicle manufacturer recommended cold inflation pressures for your OE tires. You will find a statement similar to that on page #44 of the reference provided below. (Page 44 is in chapter #4, R, V tires).

https://www.ustires.org/sites/defaul...TruckTires.pdf
okay, but that's still very different than saying "never use a pressure below the max rating for the tire itself", which you hear a lot around here. The question was 'can I run the D rated tires at 50 psi instead the max rating of 65 psi'. Assuming that 50 is >= the trailer manufacturer recommended cold inflation pressures for his OE tires, then the answer is still yes (also assuming that number isn't less than what the new tire manufacturer recommends for the D rated tire at the trailer's actual weight). It doesn't conflict with the highlighted portion of your post about the FMVSS standards, correct?
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Old 05-15-2018, 05:02 PM   #48
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I have to agree with CW. A dear friend who has since passed away ran a large tire shop for about 50 years (son runs it now). He always advocated to his customers that to get max wear out of your tires run them at max sidewall pressures. YMMV
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Old 05-15-2018, 05:28 PM   #49
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I have to agree with CW. A dear friend who has since passed away ran a large tire shop for about 50 years (son runs it now). He always advocated to his customers that to get max wear out of your tires run them at max sidewall pressures. YMMV
In most cases that would be true - but if you’re driving a heavy duty truck (GMC 3500 Dually) that spends most of its’ life pretending to be a passenger car and then periodically gets loaded to the hilt, you’ll appreciate the find art of “selective tire inflation!” If I ran my dually at the max tire pressure, all the time, I wouldn’t have any fillings left in my teeth and I wouldn’t average over 65,000 miles on a set of tires. I also changed to a higher load rated tire on my Airstream - but I still held to the 55 psi inflation OEM recommendation and I made sure that the trailer was loaded accordingly. In 60 years of driving I’ve never had a blowout on any vehicle I was driving or towing. I attribute that to religiously monitoring my tires - and to a lot of luck with avoiding road trash.
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Old 05-15-2018, 05:34 PM   #50
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Yes Cracker I agree with your response. Did my time in 18 wheelers and max pressure was paramount. Hence my qualifier YMMV
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Old 05-15-2018, 10:16 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by Cracker View Post
In most cases that would be true - but if you’re driving a heavy duty truck (GMC 3500 Dually) that spends most of its’ life pretending to be a passenger car and then periodically gets loaded to the hilt, you’ll appreciate the find art of “selective tire inflation!” If I ran my dually at the max tire pressure, all the time, I wouldn’t have any fillings left in my teeth and I wouldn’t average over 65,000 miles on a set of tires. I also changed to a higher load rated tire on my Airstream - but I still held to the 55 psi inflation OEM recommendation and I made sure that the trailer was loaded accordingly. In 60 years of driving I’ve never had a blowout on any vehicle I was driving or towing. I attribute that to religiously monitoring my tires - and to a lot of luck with avoiding road trash.
Exactly, the problem is, people seem to confuse the recommended tire pressure for the trailer (which is what I believe CW's post was referring to) with the max pressure rating for the tire. They are not the same thing, although in cases where the trailer manufacturer specs a tire whose load range is barely adequate for the trailer, they may be the same number.

The tires that came on my F350 have a max inflation pressure of 80psi, but the recommended inflation pressure set by Ford (and shown on the vehicle sticker) is 65/55. Like you said, if I drive my truck around empty with 80psi in all 4 tires it would rattle my teeth, handle poorly and the tires would wear unevenly. When I'm pulling the fiver, and the truck is near capacity, I most definitely air the rears up to 80psi.

Our toy hauler came with Trailer King Load Range E tires, barely adequate for the weight of the trailer, so the tire's max rated pressure of 80psi (shown on the tire sidewall) is the same as the trailer manufacturers recommended pressure (as shown on the sticker on the trailer). I replaced the OEM tires with Load Range G Sailuns that have a max pressure of 110psi, but if I run them at that pressure the trailer rides like the tires are made of solid rock. CW's post "NEVER use cold inflation pressures below vehicle manufacturer recommended cold inflation pressures for your OE tires" means I should never run the Sailuns lower than 80psi (NOT 110psi). I usually run them at 90, which still gives me extra headroom above the OEM tires, but is compliant enough not to beat my trailer to death. Ideally, I suppose, you would compare the trailer's recommended pressure (as per the sticker), and the tire manufacturer's chart value for the actual load (based on the real weight of your trailer), and use the higher of those 2 values as your minimum safe pressure.
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Old 05-16-2018, 05:25 PM   #52
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Maximum inflation for all RV trailer tires is a long story. I'll write-up my version and post it in another thread-------------------this one------- http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...ad.php?t=31344
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Old 05-17-2018, 02:06 PM   #53
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Maximum inflation for all RV trailer tires is a long story. I'll write-up my version and post it in another thread-------------------this one------- http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...ad.php?t=31344
Thanks CW, your newest post in the other thread really clarifies things!
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Old 05-24-2018, 10:51 AM   #54
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Changing from C to D

On the smaller travel trailers 205-75-14 ST lrC tire was standard. Goodyear Endurance now is available in lrD in this size. I have upgraded to D and found running at 65 psi as Goodyear recommends has not caused any problems
My question: how do I know I’m not exceeding capacity of aluminum wheels?
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Old 05-24-2018, 11:32 AM   #55
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On the smaller travel trailers 205-75-14 ST lrC tire was standard. Goodyear Endurance now is available in lrD in this size. I have upgraded to D and found running at 65 psi as Goodyear recommends has not caused any problems
My question: how do I know I’m not exceeding capacity of aluminum wheels?
On my steel wheels the max load is stamped on them, which happens to be 2205.
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Old 05-24-2018, 02:11 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by 68GS400 View Post
On the smaller travel trailers 205-75-14 ST lrC tire was standard. Goodyear Endurance now is available in lrD in this size. I have upgraded to D and found running at 65 psi as Goodyear recommends has not caused any problems
My question: how do I know I’m not exceeding capacity of aluminum wheels?
Look on the back side of the rim. It may be/should be stamped there.
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Old 05-24-2018, 02:47 PM   #57
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My question: how do I know I’m not exceeding capacity of aluminum wheels?
OEM Wheels usually have their load capacity visible somewhere on the front, back or maybe inside the wheel. Many wheel manufacturers post charts on the WWW. If you know the name brand you can search that way. When all else fails, call or email the wheel manufacturer.

The wheel load capacity can also be limited by the capacity of the valve stem. Lots of them in your wheel size are OEM 60 PSI or less.

Some wheel manufacturers just list a load capacity. Others certify load and PSI capacities. In any event, never exceed the wheel's load limit.
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