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02-23-2018, 10:18 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: TEMECULA
Posts: 34
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Underbelly - Proper way to access
Hi,
I need to look behind the underbelly of the trailer for a disconnected heater duct on my new 2018 Cougar 25RES
Looking at the underbelly it seems to some type of rivet, not a screw head, that holds the plastic liner.
I have add a closeup photo of the attachments.
What is the best way to to remove these attachments and the replace underbelly so it stays put?
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02-23-2018, 10:46 AM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 52
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That looks like a Ramset to me. If it is, it all depends what it was shot into as to how to remove it. Hopefully one of the techs on here can tell you more.
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02-23-2018, 11:06 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central San Joaguin Valley, CA
Posts: 2,117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlk1950
That looks like a Ramset to me. If it is, it all depends what it was shot into as to how to remove it. Hopefully one of the techs on here can tell you more.
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I recently had the same question. Chuckster recommended using a small pry bar to work beneath the washer and pop the fastener out. Or, as John suggested, you can grind the head off and then drive the fasteners on through or drill a new hole.
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__________________
Jack & Marty
2018 Laredo 298 SRL
2011 F-250 SB Crew Cab 4x4 6.7L
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02-23-2018, 11:11 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: TEMECULA
Posts: 34
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Someone suggested cutting a 3 sided hole / window and then using Gorilla Tape to close?
Worried about water / future holding?
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02-23-2018, 11:28 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central San Joaguin Valley, CA
Posts: 2,117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WanderOne
Someone suggested cutting a 3 sided hole / window and then using Gorilla Tape to close?
Worried about water / future holding?
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That will work. Our previous trailer had access doors cut into the CoroPlast for the slide motors. They were sealed with tape-didn't leak.
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__________________
Jack & Marty
2018 Laredo 298 SRL
2011 F-250 SB Crew Cab 4x4 6.7L
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02-23-2018, 11:33 AM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,325
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I use a prybar. Put it between the frame and coroplast to pull on the washer. Self tapping screws go right back in the same hole. If you do cut an access hole, use scrim tape to seal the edges.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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02-23-2018, 12:30 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 639
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2018? take it to the dealer and make them fix it, lol. the best solution of all
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2014 Ram 3500 Cummins, Limited, Longbed, CC. Every option but the Aisin. Airbags.
The Toy Trifecta:
2021 Keystone Montana 3854BR all options +Onan
2021 Malibu 23 LSV
2017 Yamaha YXZ1000R SS SE
2019 Can AM Maverick X3 Turbo XRS
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02-23-2018, 11:20 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Climax
Posts: 85
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There just like nails. You can put a 5/16’s nut driver on them and turn em to break them lose and you can pull them out.
Or you can use a slotted screw driver to pry them out. Some of them wont stay in once you remove them. I just use self tapping screws to go back with.
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02-23-2018, 12:49 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Texarkana, TX
Posts: 1,052
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After you get them out, consider using stainless self-tapping screws... Eventually even the coated stuff rusts, especially up where they salt the roads.
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02-23-2018, 01:15 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Lafayette
Posts: 1,068
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You can also use a grinder with a cutoff wheel and just cut the heads off, then once you have the cover off you can drive the rest on through the hole in the steel. And yes they are Ramset pins. If your not sure where its at, now maybe the time to invest in a small scope with a light on the end to stick through and be able to see whats there. Those kits just plug into a smart phone and work great for investigating things.
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2015 Ram,3500,Dually,B&W,4.10s,Aisin,Limited,Silver
2018 Raptor,428SP w/full body paint
2012 Harley, Ultra Limited
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02-23-2018, 01:52 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Apollo, PA
Posts: 61
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I like using stainless screws when I can, but they will corrode when in contact with regular steel. Dissimilar metals. Galvanic reaction. Ford specifically says not to use them for the aluminum bodies and beds either.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...ml/Q-222R1.pdf
I always thought they were okay with aluminum, but Ford doesn’t think so.
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02-23-2018, 02:31 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: HENDERSON
Posts: 10
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I used vice grips. Grab the head and twist left and right like you're tightening and loosing them and pull at the same time. They'll come right out.
John.
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02-24-2018, 05:20 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Sherman
Posts: 326
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I have used a pry (crow) bar as in previous comment.
__________________
2017 Alpine 3401RS,Titan Disc brakes,Morryde SRE 4000, 2016 Ram 3500HD Laramie SRW,LWB,4X4, Aisin transmission
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02-27-2018, 05:22 AM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Livingston
Posts: 92
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I used a steel trim tool that has a notch in the middle. I can work it between the coroplast and washer so that the rivet is in the notch. It will pop the right right out. I replaced the rivets with plated self tapping screws.
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2017 Alpine 3301GR
2019 Ram 3500
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02-28-2018, 08:58 AM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Richlands
Posts: 44
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Good info as I am looking to route a cable under there.
__________________
2018 Premier 26RBPR being towed by a 2015 Ram 1500 LongHorn CC, Eco-diesel.
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02-28-2018, 12:57 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 409
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Craftsman Universal socket on an impact driver spins them right out of the hole in reverse. They grab anything close in size. Easy peasy. As others have said, replace with self tapping bolts.
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02-28-2018, 02:12 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Picacho, Az
Posts: 6,809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmaxmutt
Craftsman Universal socket on an impact driver spins them right out of the hole in reverse. They grab anything close in size. Easy peasy. As others have said, replace with self tapping bolts.
Attachment 15463
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Only problem is I haven't seen a Sears store in years & just about all the Kmarts are gone now, I guess you might still find them online.
Harbor Freight might have something similar for a fraction of the Craftsman price.
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Full-timed 10+ years
Sold '13 Redwood FB
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Replacement undetermined
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03-01-2018, 04:47 AM
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#18
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelin texans
Only problem is I haven't seen a Sears store in years & just about all the Kmarts are gone now, I guess you might still find them online.
Harbor Freight might have something similar for a fraction of the Craftsman price.
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I have a set from Harbor Freight at the house. And believe it or not I still have a Kmart a couple of miles away, and a Sears at the Mall.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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02-28-2018, 04:59 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 409
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They sell Craftsman elsewhere now. It was one of the profitable things Sears sold off.
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02-28-2018, 06:47 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Black Forest
Posts: 102
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True Value Hardware sells Craftsman Tools. Was just in there yesterday & saw them. I was wondering about those darn ram-set nails as well.
Jim
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