12vdc in a Hideout

[Wa6cp]

Hello,
I went to turn on my 12vdc lights in a 2017 Hideout, and no illumination. All fuses are ok including the two 40 amp ones. I checked the voltage at the converter. It read 2vdc. It was also warm. I purchased an exact replacement, $248.00, installed it, and am still getting 2vdc. I was hoping maybe a shorted battery, even though the battery is relatively new. I disconnected it, But still had only 2Vdc.
I appreciate any help in this problem.
(I have family coming this weekend).

[chuckster57]

Check your voltage coming in from the shore cord if your plugged in. Converter won’t work if you don’t have 110VAC coming into the trailer.

[flybouy]

Is there anything working that's 120vac like the microwave display or television? Have checked the converter breaker by torning it off then back on? Did you remove the battery cables and check the voltage at the battery and at the disconnected cables?

[Wa6cp]

I will check the shore voltage when I’m back later. The microwave and tv work fine.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Wa6cp

I will check the shore voltage when I’m back later. The microwave and tv work fine.

You don't give the model of the Hideout but IF it is a 30 amp plug and not 50 amp then the shore power is likely ok. I'd check the breaker for the converter first and cycle it. Then measure the voltage coming out of the breaker and into the converter. If 120vac is present then check the battery with the cables disconnected.

[Wa6cp]

The 120vac seems to be ok. When the positive from the converter is connected to the fuse board, I measure 1 vdc. If I disconnect the positive lead from the board, I get 14vdc.

[Wa6cp]

Sounds like a short in the 12volt system, but I wouldn’t know where to start?

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Wa6cp

Sounds like a short in the 12volt system, but I wouldn’t know where to start?

Check the battery. What you are describing could be a shorted cell in the battery which likely fried the original converter.

[Wa6cp]

I disconnected the positive terminal of the battery, and still getting the same results.

Thanks to everyone thus far. I really appreciate your time.

[chuckster57]

Take your Volt/Ohm meter and set it to continuity.

Disconnect the converter from the 12V side and check continuity between the positive connection and the ground bar on the 120V side.

Then disconnect the positive battery lead at the 12V panel and test from the positive terminal to chassis ground. Post your readings.

[Wa6cp]

Thank you chuckster57,
Just confirming, I am checking continuity between the positive terminal on the board and the gnd bar on the 120 volt side?

Is the chassis gnd the same as the gnd bar?

[chuckster57]

Yes and no. There should be a ground from the bar to the chassis.

[chuckster57]

I re read and got thinking, if you had a “short” it would blow fuses. You did test the two 40A fuses with a meter?

[Wa6cp]

Good morning,
I have continuity with the first check, and, no continuity with the second check. I am using the steps for the chassis ground by scraping off a 1inch section of paint, and exposing metal.

[Wa6cp]

I did confirm the fuses with a meter.
I have 14vdc when I remove the positive lead from the converter side of the terminal. But when I reconnect, I’m down to 1 volt, and the converter starts to get a little warm.

[Wa6cp]

Also, the fan is running on the converter when the positive lead is disconnected, but stops when I connect it. There is also a little sparking.

[Wa6cp]

There is continuity from chassis ground to the gnd bus bar.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Wa6cp

There is continuity from chassis ground to the gnd bus bar.

That’s a good thing. What about the positive side.

[Wa6cp]

How can I measure that?

[chuckster57]

With the meter.