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Old 12-12-2023, 04:42 PM   #1
Scott.
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Newbie first Winterizing Process

Hi All! Thanks in advance for any help! My wife will be leaving our 2011 Cougar 5er in an RV park for 3 weeks while we travel home for the holidays. Weather might get into the high 20s a couple of times but mostly will be in the 40s. As for winterizing. I am hitting a tough spot with the Hot Water Heater. When I disconnect the water from the rig, I am planning on putting antifreeze in all of the tanks and lines. However I have seen mixed messages on if I should put antifreeze in the Hot Water tank and if I should remove the anode or not.

1) should I fully winterize if we wont be using for a few weeks?
2) should I put antifreeze in the HWT?
3) should I remove the anode from the HWT?
4) any other suggestions for winterizing?

Thank You for any help!
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Old 12-12-2023, 05:20 PM   #2
JRTJH
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Let's look at what you've already accomplished and go from there:

You said that you have already put antifreeze in all the tanks and in all the lines and you're concerned with whether you need to drain the water heater and remove the anode rod.

Now, some comments/recommendations.

First, if you've already put antifreeze in all the lines and have not turned the water heater bypass valve to "bypass" on the back of the water heater tank, then you've probably filled the water heater with antifreeze. The reason for not putting antifreeze in the water heater is because it is corrosive to the anode rod. Additionally, RV antifreeze has a "nasty aftertaste and smell" so flushing it out of any tank is difficult and takes several complete flushes and a concentrated effort to get rid of it.

So, at this point, if what you said you've alread done, then yes, you'll need to remove the anode and drain the tank. When you return, you'll want to flush/dilute what remains in the bottom of the water heater tank to better flush the taste and smell out of your water heater. When you reinstall the anode rod, be sure to wrap 2 or 3 layers of teflon tape on the threads to prevent it from being "impossible to remove" the next time you need to remove the anode.

Don't forget to run antifreeze into the toilet flush line and the outdoor shower.
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Old 12-12-2023, 05:33 PM   #3
Scott.
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Thanks! So I have not pumped all of the lines, I misspoke. I meant to say I have emptied the lines. No antifreeze has been put in.

I have edited the original message to show this.
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Old 12-13-2023, 06:11 AM   #4
cougar23
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You should close the water heater by-pass valves. Drain the water heater tank. Open the fresh water drain valve and then proceed to pump antifreeze into the spigots, toilet, showers and back flush if installed. I always add extra to all sink and shower drains to fill p-traps. Then open low point drains and drain black and gray tanks. After closing low point and tank valves I add extra to toilet and sink drains so there is antifreeze against the black and gray tank valves.
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Old 12-13-2023, 06:24 AM   #5
jxnbbl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott. View Post
... leaving our 2011 Cougar 5er in an RV park for 3 weeks while we travel home for the holidays. Weather might get into the high 20s a couple of times but mostly will be in the 40s...

Due to this statement, if it was me I would get a compressor drain the lines and the water tank and then blow them out and possibly put about a cup or two of antifreeze in the drains. If the coldest temp is going to be in the high 20s. This is what most people do for winterization. Personally I put antifreeze in also but I leave my trailer for 4-5 months and it goes to -15 and lower a few times in that period!


The antifreeze is going to just take more flushing and sanitizing when you return and not worth it imo.
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Old 12-13-2023, 07:10 AM   #6
flybouy
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^^^^ This, I would just add one thing. Leave all faucets open. That will give room for any water trapped in a faucet to expand without doing damage.
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