Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 

Go Back   Keystone RV Forums > Keystone Community Forums > Odds 'n Ends
Click Here to Login

Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 06-24-2011, 06:02 PM   #1
Festus2
Site Team
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fraser Valley BC Canada
Posts: 7,015
Exclamation Moderators Need Your Input!

The Moderators would like to develop a thread to assist members in selecting a Tow Vehicle for their RV. As you are aware, members are often asked "What truck should I buy for my ........RV". Lately, this question is being asked often and members find themselves responding to this same query over and over - with slight variations - and may be tiring of answering it.

We would like to refer new members who ask this question to a "Sticky Thread" which would provide them with some guidelines and basic information in helping them decide. We realize that every situation is unique and that there is no stock or one size fits all answer and that we would not be able to answer every question for all members.

The forum cannot make decisions for people as to what TV is the one they should buy. However, we can provide them with many of the tools to help the decision-making process easier. They still must do some research, legwork and homework on their own. We believe that the member has responsibilities here as well.

The Moderators are looking for your input in helping make up such a thread. You can help by:
1) Asking yourself, "If I were buying a TV, what guidelines and information would I find helpful"? "What do I need to know and what questions do I need to ask?" "What do I need to find out for myself?"
Let us know.
2) Listing any websites that we could include as references for the buyer. For example, websites with information about the various weights and ratings and what they all mean. You can include any that you have used yourself and found useful.
3) Including any other guidelines you would like to see included in this sticky.

Remember, the intent of this thread is a guide only. Any specific information you include should be factual and not based on your opinion. There will be some statement - yet to be determined - about forum liability.

Please post your suggestions in this section. Point form is always good - easier on the Moderators! We don't see any need for comments about or criticism of other members' contributions - we are looking for lots of ideas rather than a discussion or debate on the merit of the post.
Once all of your comments and ideas have been posted, the Moderators will collect them, and put together a rough draft for your final consideration and comments.
There will be a deadline for submissions -TBA.
Once finalized, the new Sticky Thread will appear in the Towing and Tow Vehicle section. New members who then ask "the question" should first be referred to that Sticky Thread.

Note: If you have any questions about this new Sticky, please contact one of the Moderators.
We are looking forward to your input and thanking you in advance for your participation.

Festus2
__________________
2008 Cougar 5th Wheel 27RKS
2005 2500 GMC Duramax
Festus2 is offline  
Old 06-25-2011, 02:12 AM   #2
richf28
Senior Member
 
richf28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: erie pa
Posts: 208
When I decided I needed a new tow vehicle I went to the dealer with the thought of buying a 3/4 ton diesel. I was introduced to the new Ford Ecoboost. Not a believer I went home and went online. http://www.ford.com/trucks/f150/experiencef150. Watched the torture test videos and have to say it sold me and I'm happy.
richf28 is offline  
Old 06-25-2011, 02:54 AM   #3
Txoutback
Senior Member
 
Txoutback's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Gulf Coast Texas
Posts: 102
Don't tax out your TV. Give yourself at least a 20% margin.
__________________

2011 Outback 277RL
2011 Ford F150 EB Max Tow
Txoutback is offline  
Old 06-25-2011, 08:36 AM   #4
hankaye
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Arrey,
Posts: 2,368
Howdy All;

Most important to me is STOPPING POWER.

Like the 'Strongman' tricks... once they get the locomotive rolling they can keep it moving.
However you never see them STOP one.

The design spec's. of the vehicle take into consideration the ability of the braking system.

I like the idea of the 20% "Fudge Factor".

hankaye
(the"Other" hank)
__________________
Striving for a less complicated life since 1949 ...

Home: 2008 Cougar 278 RKS
T.V.: 2004 F-250 4X4, Level III BulletProofed , Detroit Tru-Track Differential (915A550)
Dog: 2006 Border Collie (Rascal) aka Maximum fur dispersal unit. (08/04/2006 - 12/16/2017) RIP.
hankaye is offline  
Old 06-25-2011, 03:40 PM   #5
Handysam
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Cincinnati,Oh.
Posts: 365
Obviously real world numbers on the vehicles for towing and payload is a must. Trailer Life has a very nice guide for different years and makes of all vehicles. Breaks are a very good point, as well as the 20% margin. Although I think all the big three have very good trucks in the towing dept. I think peoples opinions do matter, just not sure how you would put that in a sticky format. If I were to buy a TV today, I would first find the towing and payload capacities, for that is the reason FOR the TV. Next would be price, warranty, and options available, such as, cab size, bed size, gear ratios, engine size, diesel or gas, cost to maintain, etc. To me comfort and looks are important, because its my daily driver. Hope this helps, Happy Camping, Sam
__________________
2007 Dodge 2500 6.7 Megacab CTD
2011 Keystone Cougar 327RES
Handysam is offline  
Old 06-25-2011, 04:49 PM   #6
Bob Landry
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 1,910
I'm always amazed at how many posts we read weekely asking how much can this truck pull, or Is my trailer too heavy. Between all of the forums I lurk on, it probably comes up 6-8 times a week. The question is always the same and the answers are also.
Everyone has their favorite little set of numbers that the like to throw out because they read them somewhere, 13% tongue weight, 20% margin, and we can all think of others. The bottom line is that most of the people who post these questions have not even bothered to educate themselves on the rating numbers on their truck or trailer and what they really mean. There is a lot of self-education involved and most new members to the forums are not willing to do that, they just want the quickest magic answer so they can move on, usually because they have found the trailer they can't live without and are desparate to make it work. So they keep asking the same questions in different ways until they get the answer they want. I have to admit that when I first got into this game, all of that was daunting and thankfully, I did not get put into a rig that would have been dangerous on the highway by some agressive salesman that needed to make his quota. I'm still no authority on the subject, but I've learned a lot, and I think the simple answers to these repetative questions are... Gross weight. That is the heaviest that your trailer is ever going to be. Your actual weight may be less than that, but should never be over. It consists of curb weight and cargo capacity. if it is at or preferably below the published tow rating of your TV, then it will pull it.

The other half is towing and payload capacity of the TV, Eveyone really seems to want to skate around this one, but it's crucial. payload is the amount of weight that the truck is capable of carrying, plain and simple. It's printed on the tag inside the drivers door on every truck manufactured. Most people don't seem to know where it is. Many people tow or want to tow with a 1/2 ton truck, myself included. It can be done, but the shortfall of any 1/2 ton truck is payload carrying capacity. If you have a 1/2 ton, load it up with wife, two kids, the golden retriever and a load of firewood and a couple of bicycles in the bed, chances are you aren't going to make it. Payload is everything in the truck including fuel, passengers, cargo, and last but not least. Tongue weight. That gets added also. That 1000lbs of tongue weight gets added right in there with DW and the kids. BTW, don't tell DW she needs to drop 50lbs so you can have that trailer you've been looking at, or you'll be camping in it alone. We can also get into axle ratings and what they mean, but that's beyond the scope of this post and if you are withinthe tow rating and payload for your truck, it's usually not going to be applicable anyway.. My point is that all of the information needed to make an itelligent decision on matching trucks and trailers is out there, and it ain't rocket science, but it does require some uninterupted reading time.

Weight police.. They are on every forum. Ignore them. They are the crowd that thinks it's criminal to tow any trailer with less than a 3/4 ton diesel. There are a lot of us towing with a 1/2 ton truck and we're doing it by the numbers, or at least close.

So, if you have a legitimate question about towing and what your truck will or won't do, ask away and we will try our best to help you, but at least know what the tow rating and the payload capacity of your TV is, because that's the first thing you are going to be asked.
Bob Landry is offline  
Old 06-25-2011, 05:06 PM   #7
Txoutback
Senior Member
 
Txoutback's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Gulf Coast Texas
Posts: 102
I threw out the 20% margin because in my younger years I had a chevy truck and bought a boat that was right at its ability limit. It towed it fine and I felt safe on the road but it trashed the tranny and final drive gear in two seasons. The numbers said it could do it but didn't say for how long. That was a 1972 Scottsdale so things may be different now but I recall that lesson every time I size up my load.
__________________

2011 Outback 277RL
2011 Ford F150 EB Max Tow
Txoutback is offline  
Old 06-25-2011, 05:12 PM   #8
Bob Landry
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 1,910
I agree with the 20% number. I havn't weighed, but knowing how we pack, I'm guessing my Outback is around 8000lbs. I'm comfortable with that and my truck is rated for 10,100. I really thnk that would be too much and would not allow any wiggle room for braking or anything else tha could happen on the road. My point was that a lot of numbers get thrown out with the idea that they are gospel. I guess that comes from seeing the same people throw out the same numbers without asking about anything else. There is a lot of arm-chair RVing done not only on this forum, but others as well.
Bob Landry is offline  
Old 06-25-2011, 06:37 PM   #9
chuck&gail
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Colorado Mountains
Posts: 422
First a comment on the 20% number. I think we need to be careful with that one as many of us "run what we have". After our SUV had 200,000 miles on it, half that towing about 60# under the maximum rating with very few problems, we upgraded to a heavier trailer and therefore a new tow vehicle.

The biggest thing IMO to put in the sticky is to explain tongue weight, and its importance. Trailer Life does a HUGE disservice with their ratings, as they never mention those ratings. I can't really speak for pickups, as my wife refuses to even consider one. Fortunately we prefer small TT's. So for example when we went looking for a new TT and an SUV to pull it, we found the limitation on every vehicle we looked at was the VEHICLE tongue weight limit. Often we really had to dig to get the vehicle rating, but only Toyota had no clue and was unable to get an answer. In every other case we found in 2010 the tongue weight limit was 10% OR LESS than the towing limit. Since most (?) folks agree that 13% to 15% of the fully loaded trailer weight should be carried on the tongue, this makes a HUGE difference. I've often wondered if this was the actual basis behind the 20% figure. The numbers sure come out close.

It should also be mentioned in the sticky that installing a Class V hitch on a Pinto does NOT increase the Pintos tow rating. Vehicles have tow ratings, as well as receivers. Hopefully the receiver always equals or exceeds the vehicle ratings. All the ones we saw did.

Good luck with your sticky, I think it is a grand idea.
__________________
Chuck
Wonderful Wife
Australian Shepherd
2010 Ford Expedition TV
2010 Outback 230RS Toybox, 5390# UVW, 6800# Loaded
Not yet camped in Hawaii, 2 Canada Provinces, & 2 Territories
I can't be lost because I don't care where this lovely road is going
chuck&gail is offline  
Old 06-25-2011, 06:40 PM   #10
Me.Bikes.Dogs
Senior Member
 
Me.Bikes.Dogs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: On the road
Posts: 163
The Sticky will have to cover TT information versus fifth wheel information. Two different needs based on which you pull.
__________________
Kent K.
Full Timer
2010 Raptor 300MP
2004 Harley Screamin' Eagle Electra Glide (for fun), 1 dog (great company)

Me.Bikes.Dogs is offline  
Old 06-25-2011, 08:32 PM   #11
Txoutback
Senior Member
 
Txoutback's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Gulf Coast Texas
Posts: 102
I actually pulled the 20% out of my, ah, well ear? trying to quantify a derating measurement to account for calculation errors, not overburdoning the TV and a margin of safety. The advertised dry weight and tounge weight of the TT doesn't account for anything added.
The sticky should have caution and warnings in regards to tounge weight and how you pack your TT. Any weight added forward of the axles that is not countered by added weight aft of axles will add to the tounge weight. You can start with the 100# for propane and battery. This was apparent with my last TT. The bedroom was up front. It had a large under bed storage area where we stored heavy items such as cases of sodas and bottled water and can food, all cloths went in the wardrobe located all the way forward, the only outside storage was all the way forward, floor jack, tool box, 4-way tire wrench, grease gun, power cable and hose, several wooden blocks. All located forward while adding nothing aft of the axles. All this threw the advertised tounge weight out the window.
__________________

2011 Outback 277RL
2011 Ford F150 EB Max Tow
Txoutback is offline  
Old 06-27-2011, 11:04 AM   #12
Me.Bikes.Dogs
Senior Member
 
Me.Bikes.Dogs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: On the road
Posts: 163
Travel Trailer vs Fifth Wheel Tow Vehicles

Every trailer has a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) which is the maximum allowable weight of a trailer with cargo included (i.e. propane, fuel, food). If you put anything in it or on it, it adds to the weight. Every tow vehicle (TV) has a Maximum Towing capacity and every trailer has a Maximum Cargo Weight. Whether you have a trailer or a fifth wheel, the GVW of your trailer plus everything in it must be less than the maximum towing capacity of your TV.

The trailer weight provided in the manufacturer's brochure, is the shipping weight. This is a completely empty trailer. No propane, batteries, water and camping supplies. If you take this shipping weight and add your trailer's maximum cargo capacity, you have the maximum GVW of your trailer, the GVWR. The maximums for your specific trailer will be found on a yellow sticker on the entrance door to your trailer (which also includes your vehicles VIN).

Always find the actual manual for the TV to determine the towing specifics of your vehicle. Never trust a salesperson for the trailer or the truck. The towing capability changes based on manual vs automatic, 4x4 vs 4x2 and so on. Find the specifics for your vehicle on the manufacturer's website, in the manual or on the vehicle's door panel. Once you know your trailers maximum GVW and your TV maximum towing capacity, you have the first value you can use to determine if the TV you are considering will work.

Most people suggest the TV should have capacities 20% greater than the trailer weight, just to add a margin of safety and to put less wear and tear on the TV. Since you won't always load your trailer the exact same way on every trip, having a little safety margin is a good thing.

The TV numbers should never be exceeded!

When towing a travel trailer the Maximum Tongue Load is important. A trailer uses the bumper or hitch area to tow a trailer. Your trailer will have an associated hitch weight that takes into account a properly loaded and balanced trailer cargo. If you put lead weights in the front of your trailer you will dramatically throw off your hitch weight and all bets are off. Your TV must have a maximum tongue load greater than the trailer hitch value. Again a margin of error is prudent.

When towing a fifth wheel, the Payload is important. The weight of the trailer is put into the bed rather than on a bumper or lower hitch. The hitch weight of a fifth wheel will be dramatically higher than the hitch weight of a travel trailer. A fifth wheel hitch weight must be less than the tow vehicles' maximum payload value.

When you are looking at Toy Haulers, you will see a high hitch weight. This is the hitch weight of an unloaded trailer. Toy Haulers are designed to have heavy things in the back of the trailer. This levering action lowers the actual hitch weight. It is generally accepted that hitch weights of any fifth wheel should be 10-15% of the loaded trailer when properly balanced.

If you don't properly balance your trailer, whether a travel trailer, fifth wheel or toy hauler, you can exceed your tow vehicles specifications and create a dangerous towing situation. So how can you determine if your trailer is properly balanced and your TV capacities aren't exceeded?

Once you have your trailer and TV, visit a CAT weigh scale and weigh your fully loaded TV (kids, dogs, coolers, spouse, etc.) and fully loaded Trailer (propane, water, beer, oh, and some food too), your trailer by itself and your TV by itself. The operator at the scale will usually be happy to help you. There will probably be a nominal fee to do this (less than $20). Only after weighing your TV and Trailer will you know you have everything set up properly and are operating in the safest manner.

Here are a couple websites that can help to determine the Tow Vehicle necessary for your particular situation:
Travel Trailer to Tow Vehicle calculator
Fifth Wheel to Tow Vehicle calculator

Happy Trailering!
__________________
Kent K.
Full Timer
2010 Raptor 300MP
2004 Harley Screamin' Eagle Electra Glide (for fun), 1 dog (great company)

Me.Bikes.Dogs is offline  
Old 06-28-2011, 08:15 AM   #13
campingcpl
Senior Member
 
campingcpl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Elkhart, Indiana
Posts: 420
Buyer beware

I've seen a lot of good information given so far but one thing I haven't really seen is the "BUYER BEWARE" comment. Since dealing with sales people as part of my job and dealing with them as a retail customer I see this all the time. The one thing I see sales people do constantly is try to sell a product by it's dry weight and not it's GVWR. I have seen a couple of comments that had mentioned looking at the GVWR of the towed unit be it a TT or 5ver. I think when looking at purchasing a new towable would be looking at GVWR of the unit on the sticker and not asking the dealer. I have come across a couple of dealers that when I asked what the GVWR of the unit was they just looked at me and said "well what are going to pull it with" or I also have come across where I have told them that I didn't want to be over say 8000 lbs GVWR and they start showing me trailers with a dry weight of 7500 lbs. Sales people will tell you what you want to hear just to make a sale. I have had sales people that I work with wanting me to fudge spec's on something just so they can sell it.

I've also seen several comments about the tongue weight and yes this should be a consideration also. Working in the RV industry I know that most manufactures take into consideration the tongue weight when setting the axle placement. For example: Most toy haulers have a 2000 lbs limit in the rear cargo area so the manufacture will set the axles to add more dry tongue weight. Industry hitch weight standards are; non toy hauler travel trailers will be 10% - 15% depending on floor plan (ie, front living, rear living, front or rear kitchen, etc.), non toy hauler 5th wheel will be 15% - 20% (again will very by floor plan), toy hauler travel trailer will be 14% - 18% (again will very per floor plan and number of axles), toy hauler 5th wheels will be 18% - 23% (again will very per floor plan and number of axles). So if you are looking at a rear living unit that has a lot of storage in front of the axles they will set the tongue weight to the lower percentage and vise versa if you have a rear kitchen they will set the tongue weight to the heavier percentage to help off set the weight of what you would put in the storage areas. Granted it's hard to anticipate what people are going to put in the storage area's so it comes down to using a reasonable estimate.

As for buying a tow vehical, my personal opinion is the same as most of the other people on this forum. First I would look at the GVWR of the trailer I want to pull then look at the max towing of the TV and then filter down to payload, GVWR of TV, etc. Everyone will have their favorites when it comes to manufacture be it Ford, Dodge, GM, etc. And someone else said something about options, the ride, etc., but there is one thing I haven't seen anyone say and that is fuel economy. I know for me that was a big issue when looking for a bigger TV. The bad thing is when it comes to 3/4 ton or 1 ton trucks it's hard to find fuel ratings for these types of vehicals. So one way I found was to visit the forums and ask what other people are getting and to check reviews of the truck you are considering. Of course when doing my research I found a diverse range because of mods people had done or their driving habbits. So I took it all in and basicaly figured an average. I did this for towing and none towing as well as gas and diesel. As for us going from a 1/2 ton that was getting 16 city and 19 hwy not towing and getting 8 to 10 towing I knew we would want something that was going to get us the same or better not towing and considerably better towing. When doing my research I found out that the gas 3/4 or 1 ton wouldn't get me really any better improvment so we looked into the diesels. At the end of the day it comes down to personal preferance and weighing the options of getting a gas or diesel or 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton or 1 ton. The one thing I think everyone could agree on when it comes to choosing a TV would be getting something that will make towing safe. Yes there are a lot of 1/2 ton trucks out there that say they can pull 10,000+ lbs but can they do it safely is the question as well as 3/4 ton trucks saying they will tow 17,000+ lbs an so on. Do the research and don't trust the answer of just one or two people!
__________________

Phil & Janine & Lady
2004.5 Chevy 2500HD Duramax LLY CC LB 4X4
2009 Keystone Sprinter 272RLS
campingcpl is offline  
Old 06-30-2011, 10:50 AM   #14
Jim W
Senior Member
 
Jim W's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego Il
Posts: 820
I agree with most of what has been said and I see there is no reason to repeat what has been already discussed.
I would only add this to the discussion, is what is being done in the engineering world for Automotive manufactures. I would recommend that the new SAE towing standard be re-print with SAE permission of course. This is SAE J2807 which will be implemented in 2013. This may help the novice RV'er in picking a tow vehicle.
Jim W.
__________________
Jim & Jill
2010 318SAB Cougar
2008 Dodge 6.7LCummins the original 6.7L engine, w/68RFE Auto
Jim W is offline  
Old 07-02-2011, 10:46 AM   #15
Festus2
Site Team
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fraser Valley BC Canada
Posts: 7,015
Jim:
Do you have handy a website for these new SAE towing standards? If so, could you please edit and add it to your above post? Thanks for your input.
__________________
2008 Cougar 5th Wheel 27RKS
2005 2500 GMC Duramax
Festus2 is offline  
Old 07-02-2011, 11:26 AM   #16
Festus2
Site Team
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fraser Valley BC Canada
Posts: 7,015
Note to Members:
This thread will close on Friday, July 15th. If you have any recommendations for our proposed Sticky ( "What Kind of Truck Should I Get?"), please post them here on or before the closing date.
Thank you
.[/COLOR][/COLOR]
__________________
2008 Cougar 5th Wheel 27RKS
2005 2500 GMC Duramax
Festus2 is offline  
Old 07-03-2011, 11:12 AM   #17
Jim W
Senior Member
 
Jim W's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego Il
Posts: 820
[QUOTE=Festus2;15966]Jim:
Do you have handy a website for these new SAE towing standards? If so, could you please edit and add it to your above post? Thanks for your input.[/QUOTE[/I]

I sent you a private e-mail to you.
Jim W.
__________________
Jim & Jill
2010 318SAB Cougar
2008 Dodge 6.7LCummins the original 6.7L engine, w/68RFE Auto
Jim W is offline  
Old 07-06-2011, 06:42 AM   #18
The Sod Father
Senior Member
 
The Sod Father's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Souderton PA
Posts: 185
In addition to the technical points listed above, I would recommend that the buyer also look a the following deciding factors when selecting a tow vehicle-

1) How many people are camping with you? - if you have two kids and your camper is a bunk house, you may need to factor in people capacity. If each kid brings a friend, you now need to transport 6 people while towing the camper. A super crew pick up with a front bench seat will suffice for a short trip, but will get pretty uncomfortable after an hour or so. This was the deciding factor in my getting the Expedition EL. Everyone gets a comfy seat and there is plenty of room in the "way back" for our 100lb dog. Can't do that in a super crew.

2) Will this be your daily driver? - Again, using my case, the Expedition is also my daily driver. And I commute 2 hours a day. A diesel would be a nice option, but in my area diesel fuel is anywhere from 30 to 60 cents more than regular gas. Ergo, my annual fuel costs would increase and I will need to budget accordingly.

3) Alternate use - in addition to towing, what other purpose would your tow vehicle serve? Are you into home improvements or gardening? Then a pick up may be a better option over a full sized SUV. Do you bike, ski, kayak, etc? Will you need an 8' bed for your other toys or will you need to set up a rack system to fit that beautiful new 14' kayak that you just bought? Factor in the cost of the rack system.
__________________
2008 Ford Expedition EL
2011 Keystone Bullet 31BHPR
Tracking straight and true with a Hensley Arrow
Tekonsha Prodigy playing the role of brake control
The Sod Father is offline  
Old 07-06-2011, 10:32 AM   #19
GMcKenzie
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Okanagan, BC
Posts: 916
First suggestion is for folks to not buy either a trailer or a tow vehicle until they settle on both. It's understood that most folks can't do both at once, but too many have bought one or the other and now are scrambling to fix a problem. So I think the first point should be to not rush into buying something until you have sorted out both pieces.

Also, without being mean, stress what campingcpl has said. Don't trust either the truck salesman or the RV salesman. Both will try to get you into what they think they can sell you on.
__________________
2010 Cougar 30RKS
2015 GMC Sierra Max Trailer

"Drinks for 6, Dinner for 4, Sleeps 2"
GMcKenzie is offline  
Old 07-13-2011, 06:11 PM   #20
GidKel
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 8
X3 on the GVWR "look at the stickers" and "Buyer Beware".
GidKel is offline  
Closed Thread

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Keystone RV Company or any of its affiliates in any way. Keystone RV® is a registered trademark of the Keystone RV Company.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:12 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.