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Old 11-07-2014, 11:38 AM   #1
Julie
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Winterizing

We purchased a new Cougar 28sgs this fall and we want to make sure we are doing things right. I am trying to figure out what is the easiest way to winterize. We are traveling to Branson, MO next week and want to winterize before we head home and we are also going to Florida in December, so I am of any ideas that will make it easy to do this.
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Old 11-07-2014, 12:23 PM   #2
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Here is a video explaining how to do it. Probably the easiest way is to use compressed air then put antifreeze down your drains. Make sure all your holding tanks are empty.
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Old 11-07-2014, 02:09 PM   #3
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Found out this year it is easier to drain the water first. Open low point drains, open all faucets. Then close up and connect to air to blow out remaining water before antifreeze. This was so much easier and faster than blowing out the water. Of course the water heater should be drained and bypassed first.
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Old 11-07-2014, 02:51 PM   #4
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I prefer using rv antifreeze since it will get to those places that might not get blown out with air, i.e. toilet. Used to use compressed air first then antifreeze but stopped since it didn't seem worth the extra effort.

Since Pex plumbing took over freezing isn't nearly the problem it once was. I know people who don't do anything but drain the low point drains and put antifreeze in the traps. None have ever had any problems but I'm too chicken to try to get away with that.
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Old 11-07-2014, 03:00 PM   #5
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I just finished winterizing my 31SQB about a hour ago. I drained, blew compressed air, then antifreeze.
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Old 11-07-2014, 04:32 PM   #6
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One of the thoughts I had, the last 3 years blowing the lines first puts water into the tanks. I know there is room to expand but right at the valve I just don't know so this year it might just be better.
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Old 11-07-2014, 05:22 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom View Post
I prefer using rv antifreeze since it will get to those places that might not get blown out with air, i.e. toilet. Used to use compressed air first then antifreeze but stopped since it didn't seem worth the extra effort.

Since Pex plumbing took over freezing isn't nearly the problem it once was. I know people who don't do anything but drain the low point drains and put antifreeze in the traps. None have ever had any problems but I'm too chicken to try to get away with that.
2 years ago I had to go out of town, I wanted to winterize our Jayco before I left, but never got to it. We had a bad freeze while I was out of town. When I got back and went to winterize, I found the hard lines on the kitchen faucet had split and the connection where the Pex attaches to the toilet was busted. Actually busted it out the back of the toilet. The kitchen faucet was an easy Home Depot trip, a nice $90 residential style upgrade. As for the toilet, I attempted a repair to save it since it was porcelain and expensive to replace. the repair wouldn't hold once water pressure was applied. Cost me $400 to replace. Since then, I always drain the hot water heater and turn on the bypass. Drain the main tanks and open low drain points. Blow the lines out with air and then fill with RV antifreeze. Takes me 4 gallons, 2 cold beverages, and about an hour to winterize our Alpine. Guarantee you that hour is a lot more relaxing than the several hours I spent repairing the damage on the Jayco. BTW, I love how easy keystone has made winterizing these new RVs. Not sure how the other brands are set up, but the Alpine is a dream.
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Old 11-07-2014, 05:45 PM   #8
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A small detail I became aware of this week was that if you winterize and then tow your rig to storage, do not forget to let the fresh water to drain one last time when you arrive at the compound. During our trip to the storage compound, the remaining water in the tank worked its way into the drain tube. When I opened it up when we arrived, about half a cup came out of the drain tube. I am sure it would have broken the drain cap.
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Old 11-07-2014, 10:09 PM   #9
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Purchase 3 Gal RV Approved RV Anti Freeze, Step by step, 3 seasons, 20" of snow one winter.
2. Open all faucets, kitchen 2, Bedroom for 2, outside shower for 2, inside shower.
3. Drain two low points under trailer.
4. Drain fresh water tank under trailer.
5. Close above drains.
6. Close valve on fresh water drain if done draining.
7. Drain both Gray tanks until empty. Close Valve
8. Drain Black tank until empty. Close Valve.
9. Turn water heater by pass valve from parallel to straight up. Should be pointing up along red marked plastic pipe instead of flat, white pipe.
10. Release pressure with valve then remove water heater drain plug at bottom of water heater. Careful, stand back, water will come out like under pressure! Use 1/2 socket driver and socket with other trailer sockets. Close when done, check anode for corrosion damage and change if needed.
11. Close pressure relief valve on hot water heater.
12. Close all 8 open faucets.
13. Install by pass hose on suction side of water pump, closest to sink, pull out blue handle by water inlet and insert suction hose and put other end in container of anti freeze. This is the side of pump drawing water from tank. Put back to regular operation when all antifreeze has been pumped into lines.
14. Use siphon and put jug of anti freeze in corner inside of pump box. Best to have helper to watch level of anti freeze. Stop when get close to bottom and put in new jug. Combine partial empty jugs into one.
15. Turn on pump switch
16. Open each cold then hot water faucet until see pink antifreeze and then close, 8 to do, start in bedroom, closest to pump.
17. Then do kitchen, shower and outside shower.
18. Flush toilet until 1 qt of anti freeze has flowed into black tank.
19. Leave enough anti freeze in toilet to cover valve
20. Turn Off Water Pump
21. Open any faucet or toilet to let off pressure from pump
22. Pour 1 qt to one pint of anti freeze into each pee trap, kitchen bedroom and shower.
23. Hand Pump anti freeze into Black Tank flush inlet, will need someone to hold jug while I pump fluid into inlet.
24. Hand Pump anti freezes into City water inlet, difficult pressure.
25. Funnel anti freeze into water tank.
26. Take batteries out of clocks, temperature sensor, smoke alarm
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Old 11-08-2014, 03:41 AM   #10
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Great step by step. Thanks
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Old 11-08-2014, 04:11 AM   #11
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Here's a youtube video with the air compressor and non air compressor method following the same steps outlined above. The only thing I would change to the steps listed above, drain the black tank before the gray tanks. The water in the gray tanks will help flush the sewer pipe and your hose of any nasties or TP left behind.

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Old 11-08-2014, 06:28 AM   #12
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I made an air to water adapter for blowing out the system rather than using the adapter with a "valve stem" where you have to hold the air hose on it.

Male 3/4 hose brass fitting to 1/2 NPT male.

1/2 NPT female to 1/4 NPT female brass coupler.

1/4 NPT male air fitting (I use the industrial, brass version).

Screw it all together with teflon tape, attaching a water pressure regulator to the hose end.

Screw the water pressure regulator into the trailer's city water port.

Attach air hose (air pressure now doesn't matter, but I still turn it down to 40-50 PSI).

Turn on air and open faucets one at a time, near to far sequence, including flushing toilet and outside shower.

Attach to black tank flush and blow that out.

Simplifies the process.

Edit: all this sfter draining the HW heater and bypassing it.
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Old 11-08-2014, 06:46 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert185 View Post
I made an air to water adapter for blowing out the system rather than using the adapter with a "valve stem" where you have to hold the air hose on it.

Male 3/4 hose brass fitting to 1/2 NPT male.

1/2 NPT female to 1/4 NPT female brass coupler.

1/4 NPT male air fitting (I use the industrial, brass version).

Screw it all together with teflon tape, attaching a water pressure regulator to the hose end.

Screw the water pressure regulator into the trailer's city water port.

Attach air hose (air pressure now doesn't matter, but I still turn it down to 40-50 PSI).

Turn on air and open faucets one at a time, near to far sequence, including flushing toilet and outside shower.

Attach to black tank flush and blow that out.

Simplifies the process.
You just made my head spin, sounds like a nice setup though.
I just took a 10' hose and cut it off about 4'. inserted the air compressor connection and secured with a hose clamp. I wheel the air compressor out to the camper, set the pressure regulator for 40 psi and connect the hose. When I'm done with that, I remove the air compressor connection from the hose, connect the hose to the winterize fitting (water pump bypass line on some models) and put the end of the same hose into the anti-freeze jug. I cut the hose at 4' so I can set the jug on the ground. When I'm all done, I reattach the air compressor fitting and put the hose in the basement storage container with the rest of my water hoses. One small piece of equipment that does it all and is easy to find.

I used to have the valve stem style, every year it seemed like I was searching for it trying to remember where I put it so "it wouldn't get lost"
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Old 11-08-2014, 06:55 AM   #14
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There's more than one way to "blow" a trailer. The brass adapter just seems to fit well with my methods. The Cummins also smiles in approving acknowledgement.

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Old 11-08-2014, 07:21 AM   #15
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I just use antifreeze. I don't have an air compressor and just don't see a need for that step. When you pump antifreeze through the system and make sure you open every valve until it flows red then you have replaced all the water with antifreeze. Been doing it for 40 years where it gets to 0 and the only problem I've had is when I forgot to flush the toilet. Fortunately it just broke the valve, not the toilet.
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Old 11-08-2014, 07:23 AM   #16
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There's more than one way to "blow" a trailer. The brass adapter just seems to fit well with my methods. The Cummins also smiles in approving acknowledgement.

Ain't that the truth? BTW, you made me start thinking (dangerous) so I did some research. Water pressure regulators do not work to regulate air pressure, something about compressibility of air making the design of the two very different. So no need to install your water regulator, but still a need to turn down the air compressor.
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Old 11-08-2014, 09:43 AM   #17
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I wondered about that, but never took the time to research it.
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