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Old 08-14-2019, 05:04 PM   #1
Durga
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Hot water not coming out

I’m hooked up to a house through hose with no problems of water - but when I ask for hot water there’s no water that come out.

I went under and turned the valve for my hot water off - I checked faucet again and got water coming through — but no hot water.
So I turned valve to flow - checked faucet and no water flow scenario again.

This happened last week - but the hot water abilities came back after several hours.

The hot water heater seems hot ( it’s 95 outside in California) and there’s no wet around the reserve.

Any ideas ????

The fifth wheel hasn’t been moved since hot water was no issue - so it hasn’t been jostled around a bunch in tow.
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Old 08-15-2019, 03:46 AM   #2
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Confused. First what kind of hot water tank? Ele/gas?

Is water coming out of 'hot' facuet side?

If water coming out, try just gas to heat. If you turned on electric when NO water you burned out the element but gas will work.

Tell us more.
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Old 08-15-2019, 03:59 AM   #3
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Can you access the backside of the tank? Maybe it was winterized, or at least the valves switched to winterized?
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Old 08-15-2019, 08:24 PM   #4
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Not knowing what trailer this problem is on, but some rigs have a winterizing system that uses a check valve on the hot water outlet of the water heater tank, and if this valve is stuck, no water will come out.
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Old 08-15-2019, 08:33 PM   #5
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I'm still puzzled by having a "valve for my hot water" underneath. I get the feeling this may be one of the heater winterizing valves and the OP misattributes its function.
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Old 08-16-2019, 05:40 AM   #6
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It’s possible the outlet check valve on water heater is stuck closed not allowing water out.

More info from OP would be beneficial to further aid in troubleshooting
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Old 08-16-2019, 07:46 PM   #7
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It sounds vaguely similar to a problem we had and it turned out to be the main valve that the you turn for city, water tank, winterize. The hot water worked one week and then the next time a few weeks later there was no hot water despite the hot water heater check valve indicating there was hot water. Apparently something moved (somehow) on that main valve and it wasn't closing properly, no matter if rotated it from city to water tank to any of the other settings. Something about the "city" position didn't allow the plunger/valve/seal to all connect properly and it somehow messed with the hot water an it not to flow properly. I can't say with certainty how this casued the problem since I didn't fix it myself, our service center tech did but I trust what he told me was right.

Something to look at if nothing else works!
-Andy
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Old 08-19-2019, 05:35 PM   #8
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NO WATER is coming out when I turn hot side.
If I got underneath and turn the hot water valve off that’s connected to the HW tank - then I get water through the HW faucets — BUT ITS NOT HOT.

I can choose between electric or LP. For the tank.
I run electric.

I am plugged into shore power of main house.

I will look for the type of tank when I get back home.
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Old 08-19-2019, 05:44 PM   #9
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So to recap, when you turn a valve off, you get not-hot water from the hot faucet... and when you turn the same valve on, you get no water at all from the hot faucet. Am I reading this right?

I think a photo of this mystical valve and its surroundings is called for at this point.
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Old 08-19-2019, 05:51 PM   #10
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Systems with a single (and maybe two valve) winterising valve have the check valve. Systems with three valves do not require the check valve. Sone two valve system may not have the check valve

Check valve on the hotwater tank has failed and is stuck, and not letting water out of the tank. Carefully open the little handle on the pop off valve and see if it lets hot water out.

When replacing the check valve get the brass one vs the plastic one. A short term fix is to remove the check valve and take out the "guts" of the valve and reinstall it. Chris

https://liveworkdream.com/2018/08/01...r-check-valve/
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Old 08-20-2019, 04:40 PM   #11
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Photo

Two photos here —-one with valve for flow and the other closed. It’s the only angle I can get.

They appear to be upside down in the layout here. .... the styrofoam should be to the right... at wall of camper.
Valve should be on bottom
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Old 08-20-2019, 04:47 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Durga View Post
Two photos here —-one with valve for flow and the other closed. It’s the only angle I can get.

They appear to be upside down in the layout here. .... the styrofoam should be to the right... at wall of camper.
Valve should be on bottom
Check valve is on the left in your picture, or top when the picture is in correct rotation, I circled the check valve. Chris
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Old 08-20-2019, 04:57 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Durga View Post
Two photos here —-one with valve for flow and the other closed. It’s the only angle I can get.

They appear to be upside down in the layout here. .... the styrofoam should be to the right... at wall of camper.
Valve should be on bottom
The top picture is how it should look in normal operation. If your not getting water out then as others have said the check valve is stuck in the outlet side which is on the top pipe. Might try giving it a little tap or just replace the check valve. The valve position in the bottom picture is how it would be if you are bypassing the heater to winterize it.
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Old 08-20-2019, 05:04 PM   #14
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It sure does look like the water heater winterizing bypass valve, but I can't make sense of the monkey-fist of piping at the top, where the ghostly tube behind everything else runs, or the details of the connection that must be somewhere behind the valve in question but doesn't show.
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Old 08-20-2019, 05:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steveo57 View Post
The bottom picture is how it should look in normal operation. If your not getting water out then as others have said the check valve is stuck in the outlet side which is on the top pipe. Might try giving it a little tap or just replace the check valve. The valve position in the top picture is how it would be if you are bypassing the heater to winterize it.
I think maybe you are backwards on the valve positions.

Bypassed.
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Old 08-20-2019, 05:09 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steveo57 View Post
The bottom picture is how it should look in normal operation.

The valve position in the top picture is how it would be if you are bypassing the heater to winterize it.
Are you sure? Because to me, the pipe between the two heater inlets (horizontal as the photo appears in the forum) looks like the bypass pipe. That would make the top photo normal operation, and the bottom photo (handle parallel to the bypass tube) bypass active.
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Old 08-20-2019, 05:19 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Snoking View Post
I think maybe you are backwards on the valve positions.
Sorry, Yes I'm backwards, I corrected it. Thanks for keeping me honest! I can't remember what I had for dinner much less which picture was which after about five seconds! ��
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Old 10-03-2019, 08:30 PM   #18
Durga
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I think I finally have all the parts - but after installing the new check valve I now have NO WATER PRESSURE for any water -- HOT OR COLD FAUCETS. ��

I have the new fixture on the top ( superior) and not replaced bottom ( inferior ) . Is it correct that hot water comes from the top fixture?
I have been through some " McGeyvoring" of parts before this - but this is the correct valve I believe.

I screwed in the new Check Valve so that the arrow is facing OUTTWARD away from tank.

It's crazy to me that there's now zero water pressure.
Please help - thoughts are much appreciated.
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Old 10-03-2019, 08:33 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Durga View Post
I think I finally have all the parts - but after installing the new check valve I now have NO WATER PRESSURE for any water -- HOT OR COLD FAUCETS. ��

I have the new fixture on the top ( superior) and not replaced bottom ( inferior ) . Is it correct that hot water comes from the top fixture?
I have been through some " McGeyvoring" of parts before this - but this is the correct valve I believe.

I screwed in the new Check Valve so that the arrow is facing OUTTWARD away from tank.

It's crazy to me that there's now zero water pressure.
Please help - thoughts are much appreciated.
A photo would help. It's inconceivable that even a broken check valve installed on the hot line should choke the cold line too.
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Old 10-03-2019, 08:57 PM   #20
Durga
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I'm trying to post a photo - but when I select the photo icon it asks me for an URL.
That can't be right --- but anyway, the photo ok of the Atwood tank is at top of thread.

Thank you for your consideration
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