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Old 03-31-2019, 12:32 PM   #101
cookinwitdiesel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by busterbrown View Post
6 volt GC2 batteries in series as an upgrade to the dealer-supplied Interstate group 24 "dual purpose" 12 volt battery. What was pidley at 64 amp-hours has now transformed into a satisfying, 215. Added a water tight electrical box to house the new battery switch. The old switch was exposed to the elements and was being finicky.

OLD:
Attachment 20863

NEW:
Attachment 20864
Attachment 20865
I want to pretty much copy this mod. Can you share parts and where you sourced them?

Thanks!
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Old 04-01-2019, 05:58 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by busterbrown View Post
6 volt GC2 batteries in series as an upgrade to the dealer-supplied Interstate group 24 "dual purpose" 12 volt battery. What was pidley at 64 amp-hours has now transformed into a satisfying, 215. Added a water tight electrical box to house the new battery switch. The old switch was exposed to the elements and was being finicky.

OLD:
Attachment 20863

NEW:
Attachment 20864
Attachment 20865
Nice work, but a question. Why didn't you also put the hot wire connections in a box also
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Old 05-25-2019, 07:08 AM   #103
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Just a quick note to thank you for your posts. Lots of great ideas, lots of effort on your part to document this so well.

Good work.

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Old 10-11-2019, 11:01 AM   #104
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Installed Slide Out Motor Drip Trays and Fixed Slide-out Roof Membrane

Do to a known seal leak from the slideout motors, lubricating oil doesn't respond too nicely with the slide roof TPO membrane (for obvious reasons). Apparently, Bullet years 2016-2018 are affected.

The fix: drip trays underneath the motor gear boxes and Eternabond over the bubbled areas on the exterior slide out membrane. Came out better than expected.

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Old 10-11-2019, 12:14 PM   #105
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Originally Posted by busterbrown View Post
Do to a known seal leak from the slideout motors, lubricating oil doesn't respond too nicely with the slide roof TPO membrane (for obvious reasons). Apparently, Bullet years 2016-2018 are affected.
Gonna make me go look, aintcha?
We're doing a Halloween campout, so I'll check it out then. Thanks for the heads up!
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Old 10-11-2019, 05:22 PM   #106
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Where did you get the drip pan? Did you contact Keystone, or Lippert? Or did you purchase it separately?

My passenger side slide-out is developing a bubble.
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Old 10-11-2019, 05:30 PM   #107
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Originally Posted by ROBNPEN View Post
Where did you get the drip pan? Did you contact Keystone, or Lippert? Or did you purchase it separately?

My passenger side slide-out is developing a bubble.
Called Norco Industries Customer Service dept (574-262-3400). The rep was very helpful. Asked how many I needed and then took down my name and address. Had the UPS box on my doorstep 2 days later.
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Old 10-11-2019, 05:31 PM   #108
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Thank you.
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Old 10-13-2019, 02:24 AM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by busterbrown View Post
Do to a known seal leak from the slideout motors, lubricating oil doesn't respond too nicely with the slide roof TPO membrane (for obvious reasons). Apparently, Bullet years 2016-2018 are affected.

The fix: drip trays underneath the motor gear boxes and Eternabond over the bubbled areas on the exterior slide out membrane. Came out better than expected.

Attachment 24014

Attachment 24015
Your motor is angled, shouldn't it be more level? Not only for the drive chains, but if the pan does start to fill with oil, it will just dump out.
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Old 10-13-2019, 04:08 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WNY Bullet View Post
Your motor is angled, shouldn't it be more level? Not only for the drive chains, but if the pan does start to fill with oil, it will just dump out.
I've looked at several different Bullet coaches and all the motors I've seen are mounted slightly angled (upward) on the top of the slide wall. Doesn't pose a problem. The cables are aligned perfectly coming off the chain on either end.

The amount of oil leaking is nothing likef what you imagine. It's just a few drops here and there. In fact, per Norco, there will be a point it won't drip anymore as part of the problem with these gear boxes were that they are overfilled. It just took the little bit of seepage to react to the TPO membrane. Now that the drip pans are in place, there will not be future issue.

This is why petroleum products don't play nice with thermoplastic olefin. Having a few drops remain on the roof surface causes the membrane to weaken, stretch, and bubble. The Norco rep also told me that only coaches with TPO slide roofs have been affected. Other roofing materials don't react to the lubricating oil.
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Old 10-13-2019, 08:10 AM   #111
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I've looked at several different Bullet coaches and all the motors I've seen are mounted slightly angled (upward) on the top of the slide wall. Doesn't pose a problem. The cables are aligned perfectly coming off the chain on either end.

The amount of oil leaking is nothing likef what you imagine. It's just a few drops here and there. In fact, per Norco, there will be a point it won't drip anymore as part of the problem with these gear boxes were that they are overfilled. It just took the little bit of seepage to react to the TPO membrane. Now that the drip pans are in place, there will not be future issue.

This is why petroleum products don't play nice with thermoplastic olefin. Having a few drops remain on the roof surface causes the membrane to weaken, stretch, and bubble. The Norco rep also told me that only coaches with TPO slide roofs have been affected. Other roofing materials don't react to the lubricating oil.
Wow, I never noticed mine being tilted like that, I'll have to look closer. LOL
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Old 10-13-2019, 08:53 AM   #112
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Wow, I never noticed mine being tilted like that, I'll have to look closer. LOL
Mine isn't tilted. is there a reason they tilt them?
It doesn't look right to me.
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Old 10-13-2019, 09:55 AM   #113
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Mine isn't tilted. is there a reason they tilt them?
It doesn't look right to me.
It also doesn’t look right to me. I am going to look at mine tonight to see if mine are also angled. I would think it would put some stress on the chains going through the gears at that angle.
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Old 10-13-2019, 10:06 AM   #114
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Originally Posted by WNY Bullet View Post
It also doesn’t look right to me. I am going to look at mine tonight to see if mine are also angled. I would think it would put some stress on the chains going through the gears at that angle.
4 seasons with this coach and both BAL cable slide systems work as intended. (outside of the seal leaking). The chain or gears show no undue stress. Believe me, I looked. I don't think there is any rhyme or reason as to why the different angle. Here's another member's forum post showing the same mounting position.

http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...5&postcount=40
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Old 06-03-2020, 06:33 PM   #115
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Upgraded Battery Bank and Tongue Box including DC to DC charger

I was finally able to finish a major upgrade to my coach's off-grid capability.

First, I found a tongue box that would accommodate three 100 Amp Hour AGM true deep cycle batteries. Wired in parallel, this provides a hefty 150 amp hours, up from about 115 amp hours with the previous dual 6-volt CG2 configuration. From my understanding, the advantage of having 12 volts in AGM form can be seen in better amperage draws and quicker charge cycles. The dual 6 volts took some time to top off.

Even more beneficial was the addition of a Renogy DC to DC 40 amp charger. This will be extremely helpful during our Alaska trip as charging will happen at a much quicker rate between destination camp sites. The 3 stage DCDC charger will optimally increase our battery bank SOC while on the road, something that a TV alternator alone does not provide. From all the positive reviews, I can't wait to test it out myself.

Also, the DC system was topped off with a 1500/3000 watt inverter. Increased AWG size to 1/0 so the inverter should be able to handle most of the loads we'll throw at it.

Finally, I added a volt/amp meter with battery shunt in order to keep an eye on the current state of the battery bank. What a game changer this will be when out in the boonies.

All of the cables were custom made with welding cable, heavy duty lugs and marine grade heat shrink tubing.
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Old 06-10-2020, 07:12 AM   #116
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I was finally able to finish a major upgrade to my coach's off-grid capability.

1) Even more beneficial was the addition of a Renogy DC to DC 40 amp charger.

2) Also, the DC system was topped off with a 1500/3000 watt inverter. Increased AWG size to 1/0 so the inverter should be able to handle most of the loads we'll throw at it.

3) Finally, I added a volt/amp meter with battery shunt in order to keep an eye on the current state of the battery bank. What a game changer this will be when out in the boonies.

All of the cables were custom made with welding cable, heavy duty lugs and marine grade heat shrink tubing.
All your other MODs are great, but these three items are AWESOME. These would be worthy of a more detailed look at how you did them. Especially the Inverter. Did you install a few dedicated outlets or did you install a transfer switch, and if transfer switch, how and where did you put that?

Thanks
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Old 06-13-2020, 11:11 PM   #117
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Sealant Removal and "Upgrade"

After 4 years of active RV travel, the shrinking and compromised vertical wall sealant needed to be addressed. It had lost its adhesion on many of the beads. After 2 days (10 hours) of physical hand abuse, I was able to remove all the siliconized sealant from the marker lights, tail lights, pass through storage doors, electrical outlet covers, front vertical seams, fridge access panel, and other exterior lights. It was not a fun 10 hours. I'm not sure why RV makers still use silicone. (Confident to say the $10 savings on a tube of silicone is the answer.)

After finally removing all traces of old sealant from the mating surfaces with the help of mineral spirits and denatured alcohol, I applied a superior product, Geocel Proflex RV sealant (link below). The Proflex is a little more difficult to work with but is substantially better.

Hint for a clean application: after applying the bead, use a high soap content bowl of water (dish soap) to dip your bead laying finger in to create a smooth finished look. Dip often (each time the finger is pulled away) and work fast. Practice a couple of times on some scrap material to acclimate to the "workability" of the sealant.

https://www.amazon.com/Geocel-GC2810.../dp/B001FC98X2

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Old 06-14-2020, 08:04 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by busterbrown View Post
After 4 years of active RV travel, the shrinking and compromised vertical wall sealant needed to be addressed. It had lost its adhesion on many of the beads. After 2 days (10 hours) of physical hand abuse, I was able to remove all the siliconized sealant from the marker lights, tail lights, pass through storage doors, electrical outlet covers, front vertical seams, fridge access panel, and other exterior lights. It was not a fun 10 hours. I'm not sure why RV makers still use silicone. (Confident to say the $10 savings on a tube of silicone is the answer.)

After finally removing all traces of old sealant from the mating surfaces with the help of mineral spirits and denatured alcohol, I applied a superior product, Geocel Proflex RV sealant (link below). The Proflex is a little more difficult to work with but is substantially better.

Hint for a clean application: after applying the bead, use a high soap content bowl of water (dish soap) to dip your bead laying finger in to create a smooth finished look. Dip often (each time the finger is pulled away) and work fast. Practice a couple of times on some scrap material to acclimate to the "workability" of the sealant.

https://www.amazon.com/Geocel-GC2810.../dp/B001FC98X2

Attachment 28010

Attachment 28011

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Attachment 28014

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Attachment 28016
Nice work!
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Old 06-15-2020, 03:51 AM   #119
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You're right, dealers are "in control" and as long as people stay "lined up with hundred dollar bills in hand" it will stay that way. Far too many people don't want to explore options to dealer service, so the "control" stays firm.



Consider a mobile RV service, look in the yellow pages, talk to owners of local campgrounds to get names of service techs they have a working relationship with and who make "home visits" to their campground. There are alternatives to being "hostage at the dealer".



As for the amount of time you spent and the amount of time quoted by the dealer. That should illustrate to you just how 'professional' the dealer's work would have been. If it's "impossible to do the job" in the quoted time, you can pretty much be assured that some of the tasks would have been either omitted or not done with the care you gave to the job. You know the dealer isn't going to lose money on every job, so something will be "shortcut" to stay in the profitable side of the court.



So, don't get "upset at the dealer" just use it as a learning point and find another way to get things done that don't involve being treated the way that dealer treated you. Don't get even, just don't go back.
That's why I do my own service work or at least 95% of it! No one is gonna do a better job for sure!
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Old 06-18-2020, 04:24 AM   #120
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Originally Posted by busterbrown View Post
After 4 years of active RV travel, the shrinking and compromised vertical wall sealant needed to be addressed. It had lost its adhesion on many of the beads. After 2 days (10 hours) of physical hand abuse, I was able to remove all the siliconized sealant from the marker lights, tail lights, pass through storage doors, electrical outlet covers, front vertical seams, fridge access panel, and other exterior lights. It was not a fun 10 hours. I'm not sure why RV makers still use silicone. (Confident to say the $10 savings on a tube of silicone is the answer.)

After finally removing all traces of old sealant from the mating surfaces with the help of mineral spirits and denatured alcohol, I applied a superior product, Geocel Proflex RV sealant (link below). The Proflex is a little more difficult to work with but is substantially better.

Hint for a clean application: after applying the bead, use a high soap content bowl of water (dish soap) to dip your bead laying finger in to create a smooth finished look. Dip often (each time the finger is pulled away) and work fast. Practice a couple of times on some scrap material to acclimate to the "workability" of the sealant.

https://www.amazon.com/Geocel-GC2810.../dp/B001FC98X2

Attachment 28010

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Attachment 28016
Very nice and helpful! I am about the same time. The helpful tip is welcome on how to finish the bead. Question: how does the "filon" (? if correct term) hold up to the mineral spirits?
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