Fridge at 50

[Mroe67]

So the next day temp starts to get in the 50’s again. I changed out the main board and it’s working again. So it must have been the thermister AND the board. Glad I ordered both. Glad it’s nothing else like having to replace the whole thing. Now to see if Norcold will reimburse me.

[Mroe67]

Nope they won’t install of parts has to be done by an “authorized” company. So much for do it your self

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Mroe67

Nope they won’t install of parts has to be done by an “authorized” company. So much for do it your self

I suspect it’s because there is a “check sheet” that they require be filled out COMPLETELY or they won’t pay..even us techs at the dealership.

[Mroe67]

Just venting...... So I broke down and bought the "Fridge Defender" that's supposed to prevent overheating and plus has additional condenser fans especially since I live in Arizona. Yesterday morning we pickup to RV from storage and started the fridge and have it in our driveway as we leave Tuesday for a 5 day trip. We'll be in a lot cooler climate when camping. So I'm hoping it will be fine. I am a retired refrigeration/air conditioner repair guy so I get with these units, and I understand it takes some time for these type fridges to cool down, but at 7 pm the freezer was just starting to feel cool. When I woke this morning, the freezer was frozen, but the fridge was only down to 70 degrees. I'm sure by tomorrow morning it will be down to temp. But, we'll be putting pre-chilled product in it this after noon so we can leave early Tuesday, I'm probably going to take a cooler with Ice just in case. I just don't trust these fridges. Kind of wish I would have bought the one with the domestic fridge in it and the converter. We have two solar cells to charge the batteries. I don't trust the repair center we bought it from, as we had it there under warrantee to have the fridge checked out. They said it worked fine. Have talked to a lot of other campers and their fridge works fine, yet some have problems. MAN I HATE THESE UNITS. Thanks for reading my venting.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Mroe67

Just venting...... So I broke down and bought the "Fridge Defender" that's supposed to prevent overheating and plus has additional condenser fans especially since I live in Arizona. Yesterday morning we pickup to RV from storage and started the fridge and have it in our driveway as we leave Tuesday for a 5 day trip. We'll be in a lot cooler climate when camping. So I'm hoping it will be fine. I am a retired refrigeration/air conditioner repair guy so I get with these units, and I understand it takes some time for these type fridges to cool down, but at 7 pm the freezer was just starting to feel cool. When I woke this morning, the freezer was frozen, but the fridge was only down to 70 degrees. I'm sure by tomorrow morning it will be down to temp. But, we'll be putting pre-chilled product in it this after noon so we can leave early Tuesday, I'm probably going to take a cooler with Ice just in case. I just don't trust these fridges. Kind of wish I would have bought the one with the domestic fridge in it and the converter. We have two solar cells to charge the batteries. I don't trust the repair center we bought it from, as we had it there under warrantee to have the fridge checked out. They said it worked fine. Have talked to a lot of other campers and their fridge works fine, yet some have problems. MAN I HATE THESE UNITS. Thanks for reading my venting.

Time to cool to operating temperatures is normally a 24-48 hour process. It's been that way since I first started camping back in the '60's. The only thing that's changed with absorption refrigerators from the old Instamatic 6 to todays Dometic/Norcold is the interior arrangement and the electronic control/ignition rather than the old "flint sparker, press the pilot button for 2 minutes after you see the flame.... All that was done OUTSIDE, through a 12"x2" access panel behind the refrigerator. If it was windy or raining, without an umbrella and a wet suit, you'd best have been a duck or you'd have warm beer.... So, as "bad as it might seem" it's still much better "than the old days"....

As for "residential refrigerators", the "significant limiting factor" for most is the caution in the owner's manual that stipulates the cabin temperature must be "conditioned air" rather than ambient air to prevent damage to the refrigerator cooling system. Yes, even the "latest and greatest" has limitations that make them "not well suited for every situation"....

[Mroe67]

Now it's hot out in the afternoon in AZ, and the fridge is back up to 78. Freezer is still working though. It was suggested I change out the unit to the Amish one, that may be true, I just hate spending the $1200 plus to do it. So for this trip, I guess wer're going with a cooler. Yippie! Knowing this unit, we'll get up there (in Greer) and it will cool fine. Can't believe with the added condenser fans the darn thing won't cool down. Can't believe every RV fridge in AZ is not working well in this heat. But..... I hear some are. Go figure.

[sourdough]

Sorry to hear about your troubles, but have fun in Greer. Pretty place and I've caught a lot of fish up there so might take a fishing pole...

[Mroe67]

Meeting some other fishing buddies up there, just hope the allege isn’t to bad. Have a feeling once we’re out of the valley heat the fridge will work fine

[Mroe67]

So we get up north where the temps are in the 70's and the next day the fridge gets to 26, with it set at 7 and it stayed that way. Talked to another camper up there from Phoenix and their fridge doesn't work well when they are in Phoenix either. Looks like my only choice is to look into an Amish replacement. I guess they use Helium and work better in higher ambient temperatures. But not sure I want to attempt the job myself.

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by Mroe67

So we get up north where the temps are in the 70's and the next day the fridge gets to 26, with it set at 7 and it stayed that way. Talked to another camper up there from Phoenix and their fridge doesn't work well when they are in Phoenix either. Looks like my only choice is to look into an Amish replacement. I guess they use Helium and work better in higher ambient temperatures. But not sure I want to attempt the job myself.

I had to do some research, because I'd never heard of a helium refrigerator. What I found is that they were created to reduce the flammability hazard, but I don't see any of them making claims to superior cooling effectiveness... other than perhaps in non-level conditions.

Typical of the verbiage I found:

it is charged with Helium versus Hydrogen thus making it a safety feature (non-explosive). It operates the same and has the same cooling capacity. Being a more labor intensive unit to build, it cost $200 more

A 2016 posting over at our sister forum, IRV2, contains bad news:

I called Atwood an found out they were purchased by Dometic about 2 years ago and the helium fridge was discontinued and Atwood is already out of some parts.

You can read the whole thread here. (The thread also contains a link to a report showing "no difference in cooling abilities" between the H and He units.)

[Mroe67]

It seems after reading other posts, that people are having better luck with going to a domestic fridge. I have a 2000 watt inverter laying around that I could use to power it, and a solar panel(s) on the roof of the RV. Not sure what size I have though. My question is, has anyone done this change out themselves? If so what brand of fridge did you use? and how can I tell if my solar system will keep up. I have two 12 volt batteries in my RV. Any help or advise welcome.

[rbrdriver]

We changed out our Norcold rv fridge for a Whirlpool residential ourselves about 4 months ago. Of course I had a couple of young boys to help out with the lifting part of it. We had to take the doors off of both units to get them through the door but we got 'er done. Best thing we ever done for our rig. We are on hookups 90% of the time anyways, but I do have 4 6-volt golf cart batteries and a 2000 watt inverter for traveling, etc. Also got an ice maker too. Was even able to sell the Norcold on craigslist for $600. It is doable if you want to go that route.

[Mroe67]

So you think 4 - 6 volt batteries wired in series is the way to go? I already have 2 12's was thinking about adding 2 more 12 volt ones. What model and type of condensing unit did the fridge have, was it static or fan cooled? Did you have to put cooling fans in the back to get rid of the heat back there

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Mroe67

So you think 4 - 6 volt batteries wired in series is the way to go? I already have 2 12's was thinking about adding 2 more 12 volt ones. What model and type of condensing unit did the fridge have, was it static or fan cooled? Did you have to put cooling fans in the back to get rid of the heat back there

4 6v batteries wired in series will give you 24v. You would have to connect 2 batteries in series creating bank "A", then connect the other 2 batteries in series creating bank "B", then connect bank "A: to bank "B" in parallel.

[Mroe67]

I guess what I'm asking is multiple 6 volt batteries better than multiple 12 volt ones?

[purebred]

We just moved from Yuma back to Texas and our Samsung fridge worked good in the hot Yuma temps except the ice maker. Constantly had problems with it making ice. I tried everything imaginable but to no avail. After moving back to cooler temps it's a different ice maker now. It makes plenty of ice .

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Mroe67

I guess what I'm asking is multiple 6 volt batteries better than multiple 12 volt ones?

It's more about "battery type" than about number of batteries in the system...

Marine/RV "hybrid batteries" can be discharged to 70% repeatedly. That means a 30% power availability.... For this reason alone, most people avoid the marine/RV batteries because they don't provide the same reliability with discharges below 30% without damage to the battery.

TRUE deep cycle batteries can be discharged to 50% repeatedly. That means a 50% power availability.

12 volt "TRUE" deep cycle batteries are significantly more expensive than 6 volt "TRUE" deep cycle batteries, but are available.

The reason most people buy 6 volt TRUE deep cycle batteries is because they can obtain that 50% power availability for less money than a comparable 12 volt TRUE deep cycle battery.

For most, when converting from "marine/RV hybrid" batteries to "TRUE deep cycle" batteries, it's about $100 cheaper to use 6 volt rather than 12 volt types.

The performance of a 100 amp 12 volt TRUE deep cycle battery is a power availability of 50 amps for around $275-300. You can get the same power availability of 50 amps for around $180-200 using 6 volt golf cart batteries.

Then there is the "physical size of the batteries"... A 12 volt 200 amp capacity battery is around 100 pounds. Hard to lift in and out of the front compartment of most fifth wheels... A "pair of 6 volt batteries" that produce the same 200 amp capacity weigh about 50 pounds each... Much easier (although still heavy) to get in and out of the trailer battery compartment....

[Mroe67]

Then there is the solar cell mine is 39” x 64” how can I tell it’s output?

[JJaxon]

Originally Posted by Mroe67

Maybe, but some people are saying their big 4 door Norcolds take 24-36 hours

I'm on that list. It takes at least 24-36 hours empty to get to 35-40*. Once its full, depending on outside climate, it may stay in the low 50's. Norcold has an issue, we just need to find the solution.

[rbrdriver]

Originally Posted by Mroe67

So you think 4 - 6 volt batteries wired in series is the way to go? I already have 2 12's was thinking about adding 2 more 12 volt ones. What model and type of condensing unit did the fridge have, was it static or fan cooled? Did you have to put cooling fans in the back to get rid of the heat back there

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, been busy. The batteries are wired in a series/parallel setup as to give me one big 12 volt setup. I have 420 amp hours available with the setup with a Trimetric meter to monitor it when we are off the grid, but we rarely are now. The residential fridge is a basic side by side setup with its on cooling fan setup, where it is able to be in a cabinet so to speak where it cools towards the bottom front I believe. We didn't have to add any extra fans anyway, and we just went through a brutal summer here (central california) and yet it worked just fine, ice maker and all.The outside is about the same size as the Norcold, but the inside gives us about twice the space as before. Love it!